Leaks, not leeks, and Rust, not lust?

[SissyBoyFloyd]

Where on an Oliver is an owner more likely to find a leak?  Where specifically will one need to keep a lookout for leaks immediately, and also over time?  And what areas if any, will you need to calk regularly?

 

At which points will one see rusting begin, and what does one do about that?

[Overland]

Leaks are rare. Just keep up with maintenance and if the caulk joints look like they’re aging then that’s the time to redo them.

 

Rust is a non issue.

[John E Davies]

Rust happens only at the hitch, spray with paint every now and then, and on the suspension and axles, due to rock strikes degrading the paint. All hull hardware and metal parts like grab bar and latches are marine grade stainless, and they won’t rust.

 

The aluminum parts (roof top brackets, racks) and the frame won’t rust, but the frame will definitely corrode if you tow in winter over deicer coated streets. My trailer stays parked December through March because of this.

 

Remember that any leaks will just dribble out the hull’s bottom weep holes, there are no structural components inside that can absorb water and rot. The only wood is in the galley cabinetry, and that isn’t in the way of any intruding water, except for a leaky faucet, which could cause some wood damage.

 

If you see a puddle under the trailer, if it isn’t condensate from the AC on the roof, investigate and fix it promptly, but don’t worry about the integrity of the trailer. It is fairly bulletproof.

 

The window seals can leak during downpours if their weep holes are blocked, some folks install self-stick gutters. I haven’t bothered because I live in an arid climate and “Mouse” is stored indoors.

 

For your entertainment, here is a picture of a leek.

 

 

Here is a picture of brake lust.

 

 

No rust on dem brakes! Have a nice day.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA