Winter heating with a small electric heater

[Galileo]

We’re wrapping up a 7 month camping trip that included some higher elevations and temps down to high teens in NM, Utah, Nevada. We used a plain old “milk house heater” that Ace or pretty much any hardware store carries. It says it’s 1500 watts. 

I haven’t tracked down the major air leak at the rear curbside of our LE2 - that’s a project for December. But suffice it to say that with the amount of cold air that blows in the furnace outlets - the “leak” is serious. 

In cold weather and trying to keep the thermostat at 68 - we’ve gone through a 20# tank of propane in just two or three days - so electric heat is a huge savings as we rarely boondock. 

Im actually going to be looking for an electric furnace or duct heater to have a more elegant option than the space heater. 

I’m also looking into adding one or more electric point if use water heaters - as the having the propane water heater located 15 feet from the bathroom sink is an epic engineering fail. 

[Steve Morris]

1 hour ago, Galileo said:

I’m also looking into adding one or more electric point if use water heaters - as the having the propane water heater located 15 feet from the bathroom sink is an epic engineering fail.

Several of us have added a simple recirculating valve to the bathroom hot water. Add a diverter in the hot water feed line under the bathroom vanity, with the return line going to a T in the tank fill line. Some of us have also added a separate shower mixer while under there.

 

I too have a crazy amount of cold air coming in through the hot air return under the curb side bed when not using the furnace. I attribute it to having the roof vent open to keep moisture down, hot air rising, and drawing in cold air somewhere.

Hank White removed most of the basement partitions, added a fixed 110V heater under the nightstand, and then a circulating fan under each bed, one facing aft and the other forward. He says an added benefit is that this also heats the floor a bit.

[Galileo]

3 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:

Several of us have added a simple recirculating valve to the bathroom hot water. Add a diverter in the hot water feed line under the bathroom vanity, with the return line going to a T in the tank fill line. Some of us have also added a separate shower mixer while under there.

 

I too have a crazy amount of cold air coming in through the hot air return under the curb side bed when not using the furnace. I attribute it to having the roof vent open to keep moisture down, hot air rising, and drawing in cold air somewhere.
 

Hey Steve,

I’d read here about a couple of owners adding a recirculating system to have hot water available quickly upon opening the tap. I’m not sure that would be “simple” compared to installing a small in-line point of use water heater. Of course, in the bathroom, I’d have to run 110vac there - but less work and hardware than a recirculation system. 

As for the cold air “leak” (more like an open window…) mine occurs with the MaxxFan closed - and the air coming in the furnace vents and return grill is a breeze.

I Mentioned in a previous post that the whole aft starboard corner of the trailer are ice cold with associated condensation problems. I didn’t think burning more propane was a practical or efficient solution to an obvious air infiltration problem. 

I haven’t sleuthed it out yet - but the door hinge area is a prime suspect - as the door weatherstrip goes -under- the screen door hinges.  I’m also wondering if the (Domentic) A/C has a fresh air exchange that can’t be switched on or off like some units have. 

[Galileo]

28 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:
Hank White removed most of the basement partitions, added a fixed 110V heater under the nightstand, and then a circulating fan under each bed, one facing aft and the other forward. He says an added benefit is that this also heats the floor a bit.

I’d like to hear more about what kind (brand, model) was installed  - as our floor is typically ice-cold. Though I assume it’s due to the cold air infiltration, it could be just from the frigid air blowing in from the furnace ducts and return grille. A radiant floor heat would be a first-class upgrade to the Ollie.