Steve Morris

We were watching an electrical upgrade on an RV, and in one of the drone shots, Deb spotted an Oliver in the background. Check out IreneIronTravels YouTube channel to see it 27:30 into the video.

Fixed! The threads in the hole looked pretty shallow. I suspect the wrong size drill was used, or a worn one that wobbled oversize. I found a good way to better a ces the hole on to of the EZ Flex. I removed the rear wheel, then lowered the trailer partially onto the front wheel. This pivoted the toggle for easier access. I didn’t go too far, because I didn’t want to flip the shackles. After trying a couple methods to get the M7 fitting started, I resorted to the tried and true method of pounding it in with a socket over the top. 😮 That’s never coming out! I put the nipple back on, greased it, and put the wheel back on. Ready to head to Florida in January! Thanks for the suggestions.

Oddly, ours did as well. It seemed like pretty soft strapping material.

My M7 thread checker can start in the existing hole, but I don't want to bugger up the aluminum threads on the gauge, so I'm not forcing it. I couldn't use my drill index because there isn't enough clearance in situ. I looked for an M7 set screw to use to help start the thread, but there doesn't seem to be one. So I'm going to get a short M7 hex head screw, notch the end, and use a ratcheting box wrench to create the threads. I'm also going to go ahead and get the M8 self tapping grease fittings. They are recommended for hole sizes .299" to .303" diameter. I'm already sloppy loose on a .250" diameter. fitting, but can't get my calipers or internal micrometer in there to measure.

It wasn't my grease gun. I wanted to see how well it works. I now have a Dewalt kit on order. I'm all Makita, but either Dewalt or Milwaukee were the only quality choices. I looked at battery adaptors to use my batteries on either brand. But the Dewalt kit with case, battery, and charger was only $30 more than the bare tool. So I went that route. My fitting is 1/4-28 SAE-LT, so the next size up is either an M7 or a self-tapping M8. I think I'll go the M8, but I need to check the hole size first, using my drill index as gauges. It was raining all day yesterday, so I put it off. Drying out and a bit warmer now. https://www.mcmaster.com/1095K142/ https://www.mcmaster.com/8742T15/

That's what's important. I'm looking at the M8 self-tapping fitting as a slightly oversized replacement. First, I need to get under there and see if I can measure the hole using my drill index as a gauge. Thanks for the reply!

Greasing the zerk fittings today with a Milwaukee M18 grease gun with Lock n Lube 90° adaptor. As it finished, the zerk fitting came out of the EZ Flex casting. When we tried screwing it back in, it just slid into the hole, like the hole was oversized. I'm guessing the pressure of the battery grease gun pushed it out, but there were no chips from threads peeling out. This was my first experience with a battery grease gun. Has anyone seen this happen? What's the fix? That's going to be a PITA if I have to pull the EZ Flex out to tap oversize or replace. I'm half considering trying a press-in of the next larger metric size zerk as a Mickey Mouse repair. Thoughts?

We went through the same process. It saves water not having to make adjustments once you're in the shower. I like 105, and Deb likes 108. To further save water, we added a diverter valve to return water to the fresh tank until it gets hot. This saves anywhere from a quart to more than half gallon.

Yikes! As late as last fall they still had the $18 flat fee no matter the order size. Any time I needed something, I’d tack on a box of nuts, bolts, or washers in a size I was short on to offset the shipping. I guess I’ll be buying even more fasteners the next time! 🤪

These are a wonderful addition. I put a set on ours after seeing Chris's, and they really help cut down the glare. We've had other Oliver owners ask about them, too. BTW, I made my own after Chris sent me the material information. Chris is NOT asking a premium for these, unless he is only paying himself pennies/hour for his time. Each piece is cut to length, all four corners rounded, every surface sanded for the paint to adhere, degreased, and painted both sides with two coats of Oliver matching paint. Then a double-sided adhesive is added. As of today, a piece of the material Chris uses and shipping is $36, plus paint and adhesive. $50 is a more than fair price. I think Chris is now making these a bit longer than then I saw them. So the spillover at the ends would be reduced even more. Thanks, Chris!

We have done the list the last three years. After talking to Scott Oliver and Matt last year, they were going to try to include that information with the welcome package. So no, I am not collecting details this year. Due to a scheduling conflict with a building project here at home, we have canceled our reservations. We’ll see you in Florida for Eggs n S’mores.

In addition to the Oliver regional rallies, there are also fiberglass rallies with more and more Olivers in attendance. Here in Ohio, the Casitas of Ohio put on a spring kick-off fiberglass rally and a fall rally. This past spring there were five Oliver’s in attendance out of maybe 20-25 total trailers. The Florida Eggs n S’mores fiberglass rally in January had at least a dozen Oliver’s. Hungry Mother fiberglass rally in Western Virginia had five Olivers. And there are similar rallies all over the country.

Here ya go. Cheaper than touch-up paint or new caulk, and an outdoor camping experience to boot! https://a.co/d/074EF7vg I had these in my bedroom as a kid, and it was the first thing that came to mind. Not actually helpful, but they might be a distraction. 😉

When we first joined the forum and had not yet decided to splurge for a new trailer, the used forum was very helpful. Not only did we see that there was relatively low owner turnover, but also that almost any trailer being sold was due to the owner’s age and/or health problems. Not customer dissatisfaction. That’s built in advertising right there. Plus, you could look at the owner’s previous posts to see in they made modifications, had problems, or complained about quality or customer service. I think having the forum benefitted the seller, the potential buyer, and Oliver’s reputation.

@Townesw I can’t specifically remember at what point that photo was taken, but I *think* it was when the hoses were backwards. Question two: you are correct, and I was surprised the first time I used city water with a full fresh tank and heard water coming from the overflow. Question three: Correct. For us, the whole purpose of the diverter was to save tank capacity in either scenario. The whole bathroom re-plumbing was by far the best project I’ve done on Curiosity.

They hinge this opening from the factory now? If so, that's an interesting change. Mine from early 2023 is screwed in. I added an AC outlet in the panel, plugged into that same outlet. And a DC outlet wired and fused to the fringe power. There's very little gap behind the table when folded down and latched, so I had to recess the outlets. Sue was a handy addition.

I don't *think* the 2022 models had the Victron charge controller yet. Our early 2023 was supposedly the first year they became standard equipment, but some 2022 models had 2023 components early. When I was first investigating upgrades, I considered moving the external solar port wires over to the inbuilt charge controller. Then run the two solar arrays in parallel. The first obstacle, was of course the amperage/voltage limitations of the charge controller. I'd need to swap to a larger model to get what I wanted. But more importantly, and something I was not aware of, is that the 2023 rooftop panels are 400W at a rated 24V DC, not 12V. And when I checked Victron's site for information, I learned that mixing panel voltages causes the charge controller to default to the lower voltage. So the 24V 400W panels would be operating at 12V 400W instead. As have many others here, I elected to temporarily build a portable box with an appropriately sized Victron charge controller, fuse, etc., and plug that into the external solar port. My intention is to eventually replace the SAE type port with an Anderson plug, and run a second internal charge controller, allowing me to use the full output of my 400W 24V DC rooftop panels, and my three 200W 12V DC portable panels.

Note that the Mini came with two different socket sizes since its release. Pucks are not interchangeable between the early ant later versions. I use this to mount my Mini on an old unused camera tripod. https://a.co/d/00vsLugU

Unhelpful Update: we just arrived home, and everything works again. 🙄 We’re starting a barn build tomorrow (unfortunately not for Curiosity due to allowable square footage), but when I get a chance, I’ll track down what has to be a loose connection. Thanks for the help, and an update will follow as more information becomes available.

Copy/pasting reply from FB Thanks John. We’re only out for a few days, so I’m going to wait until we get home to try tracking down the fault with my good meter instead of the $10 travel one. I know the fuse is good, because the other lights on the circuit work. Yes, the blue indicator light are what I’m referring to, plus’s the upper cabinet lights. It’s most likely a wire disconnected somewhere. I had the switch panel by the door out, and the access port behind. Tugging on wires didn’t result in anything loose, but it could also be a bad switch. It’s just odd that some indicator lights work and others don’t. And on that the indicators that don’t work, the device they operate do function correctly except the upper cabinets. They all worked two days ago, so something bounced loose or failed while on the road.

Three years ago I wired my LevelMate Pro to the always hot Street Awning switch, and that has worked fine until yesterday. After a drive to our accommodations for the weekend, the LevelMate wouldn’t power up. But the awning did. So apparently, I hooked into the indicator light terminal on the awning switch. Then I realized that several of the switch indicator lights didn’t work, nor did the lights in the upper cabinets. But other indicator lights do work, as do the closet outdoor, and cabinets lights and other interior lights. So, I figured a wire on the indicator light circuit pulled loose, but after pulling out that messy jumble of wires behind the switch panel, I can’t find anything loose. And that wouldn’t explain the cabinet lights not working. The fuse is fine, and is the same fuse as the other cabinet lights. This led me to the possibility that either the indicator lights, the upper cabinet lights, or both, are run in series instead of parallel, like on those impossible to fix Christmas tree lights. The wiring diagrams I have do not go into that detail. Has anyone had upper cabinets light or indicator light problems, and can steer me as to where to look? It isn’t trip critical; just an inconvenience. I’m rewiring the Level Mate to the other leg of the switch. Thanks for any suggestions

Thanks for the details. As I’d mentioned on the FB group, this is the toilet we’ve been considering. I like how you vented it vs what I’d talked about by tying into the black vent. How is the height compared to the OEM flush toilet! We’re both somewhat short. Don’t want legs dangling like a little kid.

I’m not Ron, but I asked the same question before. It is from Flagpole Buddy, and you need the Airstream version with adjustable angle suction cups. They went on sale last Black Friday. https://flagpolebuddy.com/products/ols/products/airstream-suction-cup-mount-kit-g2-g3-g5-or-mini-adapter-poles-mounts-cable-clamps-pole-bag/v/106967-MN

A friend of ours frequently uses an outdoor shower with his teardrop trailer. He has something similar to this underneath to direct the water away from the trailer, and to keep the shower pan clean. Another simply uses a teak shower mat similar to the ones many of us use inside the trailer. I think I'd prefer the first option, so as to not need to store a wet, dirty platform somewhere onboard. https://a.co/d/06PyWIjw

Unless the new 4Ruuner has a *lot* more oomph than my2016 4.0 six cylinder, I’d say nope! You’ll be at or near cargo capacity with the back of the 4R empty. Mine was woefully underpowered with a 3000 pound trailer. I’m currently in a V8 200 series Land Cruiser, and “adequate” is generous with the EII trailer. I’d never go near the western mountains. Maybe switch up to a V8 Tundra or Sequoia? Friends tow their EI with the new Tundra with zero issues.