Fried Fridge Board sign Of Bigger Problem?

[GAP]

My 2020 E2 came with a Norcold 3 way fridge.  It's always seemed a bit prone to minor level related problems and I've had to do a couple of "hard resets".  Just before my most recent trip, the unit shut down after a few hours running on LP and would not start again in any of the settings (LP. DC, AC) even though the trailer was carefully leveled.  I looked up the code and the manual instructed to contact a repair facility.  After trying another reset, I called a couple of local shops and they were both convinced that the board was fried.  $250 to buy a replacement - not sure if I can instal on my own. Is out of warrantee.  Two seemingly tangental questions:

1) There has been extensive discussion on this board about other types of refrigerators that are  less finicky and, if I remember right, more efficient.  Can any of you that have shared the replacement process and outcome, point me in the direction of that posting?  $250 (plus instal?) seems steep on a $1,100 unit which was persnickety from the get gto.

2) The board on my Maxair Fan has now fried twice.  First time they sent and I installed a replacement board and, this time, sent an entire new unit which I have yet to switch out.  Maxair suggested that the problem was that their boards were susceptible to damage caused by using lithium batteries and claimed that their new units have brains built to deal with lithiums.  As these batteries were so new to Oliver when I bought my trailer, is it conceivable that the batteries could be the source of the fried board issues and, if so, is there a setting on the Xantrex that would address the likely source of the problem?  I'd call Xantrex directly to discuss but have found that blame is always shifted laterally.

[BBL]

9 minutes ago, GAP said:

$250 to buy a replacement - not sure if I can instal on my own. Is out of warrantee.

Most fridge boards are easy to replace.  Have you tried Dinosaur Electronics? Check out their link HERE These guys make VERY reliable boards for most RV components like Fridge, Furnace, etc.  I highly recommend them and they can usually talk you through diagnosing an issue.

Best of luck with it,

Brian

[Ray Kimsey]

I have a 2020 LE2 also and I changed out the power board. It was not that difficult, just take your time and be careful. Mine died and was still under warranty, but getting someone to fix it was not possible in the two days before we left on a large trip. I just bought the board from camping world and it seems it was less than a $100 then.  I have attached some Norcold pdf service files I found when I did it in hopes they may be helpful.

Norcold Service Manual.pdf 525376907_Norcoldpowerboardchangeout.pdf Norcold board diagnostic.pdf

[GAP]

Really helpful information Brian and Ray.  If the the replacement board can be purchased for less than half of what I was quoted and there is half a chance I can switch out on my own, then keeping the unit is a no brainer.  I'll go through the shared materials and give it a go.  Much appreciated.

[Jim and Chris Neuman]

Regarding your Maxair issue.  Mine also died and I contacted Maxair with the same result... they sent me a new board explaining possible conflict with Lithiums.  Replaced the board to no avail.  Closer inspection revealed that there was no power to the hot lead where it connected to the fan.  Fuse was good and the bathroom fan, which is on the same circuit, was fine.  Determined that there was likely an issue with wiring itself and, after discussing the problem with Oliver, I ran a new lead (an adventure in itself) to the attic where the wiring was accessable.  Problem solved.  

It appears that Oliver tied the Maxair positive lead into the wire leading to the bathroom fan and this appears to have come undone in a totally inaccessable area between the upper hulls.  Ran a new tinned two-wire cable back to the attic along the port side of the AC unit using a wire snake... an adventure in itself.  

Note to self and others who may be listening... particularly those involved in manufacturing - NEVER bury a connector in an area which cannot be accessed.

I was hesitant to send the trailer to a service center for repair as Oliver suggested might be necessary as my faith in the abilities of the average knuckle-dragger working in RV service is not high.  I had mental pictures of getting my trailer back with holes poked here and there in the inner hull in their attempts to run a new line between inner and outer hulls.

Jason in service was good enough to point me to the right wires in the attic by providing a schematic of the wiring from the attic to the fans in the head and the Maxfan.  That revealed a possible source of the problem and suggested a fix.

[Rivernerd]

42 minutes ago, Jim and Chris Neuman said:

NEVER bury a connector in an area which cannot be accessed.

Placing electrical connectors in inaccessible areas is not a good practice.  I am disappointed to learn that Oliver does it.

I presume you opened a service ticket, as you spoke with Jason.  I hope that will help Oliver learn from this experience, so the manufacturing teams will no longer place the fan wire connector in an inaccessible area.

[GAP]

Glad to hear you fixed that problem and sorry for the hair pulling and hand wringing it must have taken to get that ugly job done.  That said, mine was not a dropped power line problem.  The Maxair would run but run goofy.  Sometimes would shut off on it's own, other times it would change speed, toggling up and down, without reason.  Definitely a bad brain situation.