Rivernerd

Which is why we use Rophor levelers. They are similar to the Andersens, but include rubber grip strips that are placed on the ground underneath the levelers. After installing one or both of these levelers, as needed to level the trailer, we also hammer in Harbor Freight chocks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09NJSXRRB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Been there, done that, "got the T-shirt." I learned that my ability to accurately determine which way the campsite slopes is limited. So, I the started carrying chocks for both the front and back of each set of wheels. Before disconnecting the coupler, I ensure that the wheels are chocked both front and back, and rubber-hammered into place. So far, this has prevented unwanted movement.

This is solid evidence that Oliver continues to do the right thing. Regardless of how the 5K rated coupler got to Oliver, Oliver installed it on an Elite II, and took financial responsibility for replacement when it failed, even after expiration of the 1-year warranty. This confirms one of our reasons for choosing an Oliver: a culture of integrity.

Same for us. We have found we do not need to dump the gray tank more often than every 2 days or so, even with showers, so it takes little time away from our camping adventures. We usually dump the black tank first regardless of its level, then flush with the gray tank contents.

Love the Wera and Knipex tools. Your plan may not have yet worked out as well as you hoped, but you have been using quality tools!

Perhaps anyone planning to tow their Oliver Elite II to Alaska should invest in a set of ALCAN 5-leaf springs before the trip.

There have been threads on this forum discussing the weight limitations of racks (bike, cargo, etc.) on the back of an Oliver. As I recall, the limitations result from the increased dynamic load exerted by anything cantilevered off the back of the trailer, far aft of the rear axle. These limitations, in turn, prompted Oliver to limit the bike rack mount to 1-1/4". I recommend you carefully consider what you want to carry behind the trailer, and how that will impact the longevity of the aluminum frame.

So, the welder who told you to never haul your Elite II with a full tank of water was wrong, since the fresh water tank is forward of the broken welds?

I am not a metallurgist, but it seems to me that less flexibility should=less stress on the welds, not more. And, intuitively, doubling the crossmember material should strengthen the entire assembly, reducing stress on the welds.

So, no boondocking? By definition, the places we boondock do not have potable water supplies, so we carry our fresh water in the tank from home. Please include that advice from your welder in a service ticket. Oliver Service needs to know that at least one reputable welding establishment believes the Elite II cannot safely carry a loaded fresh water tank as designed.

This test result, when paired with the fact that a number of Elite II owners have experienced leaf spring failure within the first few years of ownership, is distressing to me as an owner of a 2022 LEGACY Elite II. We paid a premium price (over $80K) for a "Premium Luxury Travel" trailer, which I now know came with cheap, sub-standard Chinese 4-leaf springs that will likely fail soon. My ALCAN 5-leaf replacement springs have already been received, and will be installed soon, because I don't want the cheap OEM springs to fail on the road somewhere. Apparently the term "Legacy" is just marketing hype. Oliver would be well advised to specify that higher-quality, 5-leaf springs be supplied by Dexter with its axles going forward, particularly now that the Elite II base price is over $95K. How Oliver addresses this issue will tell me a lot about the company. Perhaps when asked, I should describe it as a "premium-priced trailer with some cheap critical OEM components."

Access to the expertise of the Service team in Hohenwald is also critically important to me. Perhaps delegating "hands on" service work to dealer techs will free up more time for the excellent Service Team in Hohenwald to provide just the kind of expert help rich.dev describes above to more Oliver owners, as the number of hulls on the road continues to increase?

Battery replacement is not unique to Oliver travel trailers. Although it would be best if listed Oliver dealers were actually ready to service Olivers, dealer service (including service provided by Oliver in Hohenwald) is usually much more expensive than independent service. For "generic" RV issues, like batteries, it is not necessary to find dealer service. I would advise Paul Polk to find a Batteries Plus location in LA and ask them to replace his AGM batteries. Batteries Plus does installation.

I can't see any photos. Did you upload them?

Wicking Loctite (Green). You can put a drop on the bolt threads and it will wick into the threaded connection. https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-29031-Green-Wicking-Threadlockers/dp/B004FCH82C

When I met with Operations Manager Rodney Lomax on November 14, 2022 (while the few issues we found with our Hull #1291 after delivery were being promptly addressed by the Service Department), I told him: "Whatever you pay Jason Essary, it's not enough." One year+ later, my view has not changed.

I expect it is not realistic to believe that our closest dealer (in Orem, Utah) will employ a Service Manager of as high a caliber as Jason Essary. The only thing constant is change......

The best part of buying an Oliver has been the Service Department. Will owners still be able to submit service tickets online, and get a response from the team in Hohenwald? I hope the response to service tickets is not: "See your local dealer."

Also known as an aerator, when referring to faucets.

For what it's worth, the extra length of the plumbing run to our Elite II bath does not noticeably affect the flow volume or pressure vs. the kitchen. In your shoes, I would be looking for some kind of blockage in the bath supply line, starting with possible calcium buildup over the past 8 years since Hull # 158 was built.

The flow to our bath faucet/shower head in Hull #1291 is about the same as the flow to the kitchen sink. If the flow from your flexible bath faucet/shower head hose (with the faucet/shower head removed) is not about the same as the robust flow into the kitchen sink shown in your video, then you likely have flow restriction somewhere between the kitchen and bath. If so, my next step would be to try the decalcification process referenced by Jason Foster above.

That is why I put my pair of dual-fuel Champion generators in the bed of my pickup, under the truck canopy, when it is raining. Even though I don't have the optional front 30A power connection, I have a 50-ft. 30A power cord that will reach the 30A connection on the driver's side of the Elite II.

As I recall, Oliver has been sent a link to this thread. Given the gravity of the error, it would be appropriate customer care, in my judgment, for Oliver to provide an answer to this question. I also recommend that all Elite II owners with 2" couplers verify that their Bulldog couplers are rated for 7K lbs.

I carry a pair of Robogrips in the bed of my Tundra for this purpose.

I have towed our Elite II about 3K miles with an Andersen WD hitch. In my experience, so long as both chains feel taut, the Andersen hitch works just fine. "Perfect" is not required; close is good enough.