Using a 6-Ton RV Safe Jack on an Oliver Elite II

[Rivernerd]

Since Oliver no longer recommends using the "stabilizer" jacks to jack up their trailers for tire changes, I invested in a bottle jack for that purpose.  At John Davies' suggestion, I purchased an RV Safe Jack.  My hope was that the Safe Jack would come with the components necessary to safely jack up an Oliver Elite II in a variety of situations, because you never know where you will need to change a tire.

This post describes how I have chosen to use the RV Safe Jack on our Elite II, and includes a warning about using the u-shaped saddle that comes with the RV Safe Jack to jack up an Oliver at the specified jack point.

The 6-ton RV Safe Jack includes three jack extensions:  one 6" and two 3" extensions.  Also included is a clever Extension Screw Collar, which can be placed on the extension screw on top of the bottle jack when it is extended.  The Extension Screw Collar helps stabilize the interface between the extension and the screw.

Only the 6” extension fits under the Oliver when jacking from a smooth surface (like a concrete floor).  See first photo below.  If you are changing a tire by the side of the road, and wind up with a hole right below the specified jack point, the other two 3" extensions may come in handy.

Do not use the included u-shaped saddle on the steel frame at the specified jack point.  It could crush the propane line (which is inside wire loom).  See the second photo below.  The saddle is designed for use when jacking under an axle, but Oliver recommends jacking  from the steel-reinforced part of the frame, not under an axle.  I had hoped the u-shaped saddle in the Safe Jack RV kit would fit around the steel reinforcement frame, securing the jack to the frame.  But, alas, the copper propane line (protected by wire loom) is installed right next to the steel reinforcement frame, so using the u-shaped saddle to jack in that location is a definite "no go."

Instead of the u-shaped saddle, I chose to use a 6” length of 2x6 lumber, with a 1-1/4” x ½” deep hole drilled with a spade bit.  The block fits nicely between the two welded angle iron pieces of the steel reinforcement frame.  The block also cushions the interface between the top of the extension and the steel frame.  The 1-1/4" x 1/2" deep hole in the 2x6 block holds the jack extension in place, as shown in the first photo below.

The third photo below shows my 6" length of scrap 2x6 with an extension inserted, and next to it, the 1-1/4" spade bit I used to drill the 1/2" deep hole.

Hope this is helpful to anyone choosing to invest in the RV Safe Jack system for use on an Oliver.

 

[hobo]

We carry two of these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwb-620471?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4LnMqZqN_AIVGPjICh0OsQgDEAQYAiABEgIzYfD_BwE

Being a jack stand, it's much more stable than a plain jack.  I can easily lift one side to the trailer with these to do any repair or maintenance work necessary; and when camped, I use them on the front corners of the frame to mitigate the wobble when walking around inside the trailer using just slight pressure against the frame.  I wouldn't leave home without them. At the rally last year, they were used by another owner while doing a spring repair.

[QuestionMark]

12 minutes ago, hobo said:

We carry two of these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwb-620471?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4LnMqZqN_AIVGPjICh0OsQgDEAQYAiABEgIzYfD_BwE

Being a jack stand, it's much more stable than a plain jack.  I can easily lift one side to the trailer with these to do any repair or maintenance work necessary; and when camped, I use them on the front corners of the frame to mitigate the wobble when walking around inside the trailer using just slight pressure against the frame.  I wouldn't leave home without them. At the rally last year, they were used by another owner while doing a spring repair.

This is the Jack stand/ jack we carry with us.  It has worked great anytime we needed to lift the tire.   Highly recommend.

[Gliddenwoods]

Morning "Hobo" & "QuestionMark",

Do you have the 3,000 or 6,000 lb model? If you have the smaller of the two do you have enough maximum reach? If you could do it over would you buy the larger model for greater maximum reach in uneven terrain situations?

Thanks for your thoughts in advance.

[hobo]

8 hours ago, Gliddenwoods said:

Morning "Hobo" & "QuestionMark",

Do you have the 3,000 or 6,000 lb model? If you have the smaller of the two do you have enough maximum reach? If you could do it over would you buy the larger model for greater maximum reach in uneven terrain situations?

Thanks for your thoughts in advance.

I have the 6000 lb model.  Can't speak to the smaller model.  Sorry

[QuestionMark]

11 hours ago, Gliddenwoods said:

Morning "Hobo" & "QuestionMark",

Do you have the 3,000 or 6,000 lb model? If you have the smaller of the two do you have enough maximum reach? If you could do it over would you buy the larger model for greater maximum reach in uneven terrain situations?

Thanks for your thoughts in advance.

I have the 6000 lb model as well.   No experience with the smaller version.  

Here is the link on Amazon for the one I purchased that is same as the link in the summit racing link:   https://a.co/d/4PuME