ScubaRx
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Posts posted by ScubaRx
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I removed the regular from my Weber Q1200 last year. I added some fittings and bought a hose with a regulator to be able to connect it to a stand alone propane tank. We take this setup along when we travel as well as use it at home. Before I made these modifications, I had the same problems with low temperatures.
Now, strangely I have the exact opposite problem. I can't get it to go below 350 degrees even on the lowest setting. I can easily get it to 600+ degrees on high. Consequently, I'm constantly having to open the lid to cool it down.
I'd be interested to know if anyone has any solutions.
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2 hours ago, SNY SD UP said:
"Brandi is second owner of #10, occasionally drops in here. Cutest, only red Ollie ever."
aka "Jellybean"???
I believe that the Jellybean has had three owners prior to Brandi. After the original owner, it was sold to a lady in Dekalb, IL. It then moved on to a family in Chicago. It returned to the factory for a while to be refurbished prior to Brandi owning it.
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We had Hull #026 from 2008 to 2013 and I know it is still being used.
We now own Hull #050, the oldest Elite II on the road. Its build was started in late 2013 and delivered as the first one in early 2014. Between these two trailers, we've traveled to 49 states and covered over 150K miles.
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17 hours ago, FrankC said:
They are PowerTron brand which is a Trojan sub-brand. The four 12v wet cell setup was an Oliver option when we bought our 2019 Elite II. Not sure about the amp-hour rating. Part number is PowerTron D24DC-140. But I can’t find the specs online. Looks like this model might have been discontinued. The four 12 volt parallel arrangement has worked really well for battery life when boondocking at overnight Harvest Host stops. We don’t have the inverter or factory solar. Just running the DC accessories (fans, lights, water pump) when boondocking so the battery running time has been great.
You are correct about not finding the amp-hours (AH) specs spelled out online. However, I was able to find one bit of information about these batteries; they have a 25 amp reserve capacity (RC) of 140 minutes. This is enough information to calculate the amp hour rating.
The reserve capacity of a battery is the number of minutes for which it can run at 25 amps of current without its voltage dropping below 10.5 volts. As all babies in jungle know, at 10.5 volts your batteries are dead dead. Voltage relates charge and energy by describing the amount of energy in each coulomb of charge. AH is a different unit for describing the same quantity.
In order to convert RC to AH you first need to multiply the reserve capacity by 60 to convert it to seconds: 140 minutes x 60 = 8400 seconds
Next multiply this length of time by 25 (amps): 8400 x 25 = 210,000. This is the number of coulombs of charge in the battery.
Next divide this answer by 3,600, which is the number of coulombs in an AH: 210,000 / 3600 = 58, the number of amp-hours in the battery.
So these batteries are 58 AH each, wired in parallel totaling 232 total AH or 116 usable AH (at the 50% discharge limit.)
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3 hours ago, John E Davies said:
In case somebody doesn’t know what is going on….
...And what happened to the second axle in that bottom pic? I thought all of these were tandems.
John Davies
Spokane WA
The early models of the Escape fifth wheels only had one axle. Apparently nobody was paying any attention to the models either. The single axle would be several, several years old.
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My 2014 was $38K base.
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Just now, bugeyedriver said:
Well, the great Yeti cooler, makes it easy to stay out on extended trips . . . So I just keep on rolling
I'm sooooo glad you're enjoying my Yeti cooler.
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1 hour ago, AuthorSP said:
...The guy who showed us the II swears that we wouldn't have a problem towing the II. He said he weighed it fully loaded at just under 5,ooo lbs...
Please consider this from someone that has towed both models. If you try to to tow an Elite II with that little truck, you WILL have a problem and be disappointed, very disappointed in the towing experience. As John said in another thread, "you do not have enough truck for an LE2". I would say it is doable for the Elite I. Everyone looks at the towing capacity and hardly gives a second look at CCC. Depending on options and trim level, your 2020 Ford Ranger has a maximum CCC of 1560 lbs. Check you driver's side door jam for the actual number. Likely, your occupants and tongue weight will eat up half of that. An Elite II will weigh well over 5000 pounds. Ours weighs 7000.
We personally tow with a 2500 diesel and I have just ordered a 3500 to give us more cargo carrying capacity.
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2 hours ago, bugeyedriver said:
Now, with 138,000 miles on The Wonder Egg, it still tracks true, with excellent road manners.
That's all the miles you've traveled?
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What is the brand and model on yours?
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1 minute ago, Donna and Scott said:
Is the wind messing with the flame while we are driving at 70mph and blowing the flame out?
I doubt it, we've owned two different Oliver's over the past 13 years, that has never happened to us. But....like I said, our fridge is different from yours.
Additionally, I've never heard another Oliver owner complain about that problem.
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The fridges being supplied with the newer trailers are different from the one that is in out 2014 Hull #050 so I am not familiar with the indicator lights on yours. I do know that your refrigerator will AUTO select between all 3 modes. Ours will only swap between LP and AC.
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So you are physically switching the fridge to propane when you start to travel? It won't change modes unless you do it or set to AUTO.
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Do you have the fridge set to AUTO or MANUAL?
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I suspect the fridge outlet is not connected to the inverter circuits.
Also, with no solar I'd be very careful about running the fridge on DC, you likely will arrive at the end of a travel day with a severely depleted trailer battery.
Dumb question, you didn't turn the propane off before leaving camp?
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1 hour ago, NCeagle said:
Hmmm? Did you even bother to read the rest of the post? Many of us that took delivery in 2020 had lots of fiberglass dust.
Actually, I read every post and have just done so again. I’m still seeing the majority claim they had no problems.
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On 7/21/2020 at 3:17 PM, Seymour said:
Anyone else consider the white chemical based dust coating the entire interior upon delivery. I’ve been wiping it down but seems to be never ending. It seems breathing this dust is hazardous. Perhaps Oliver should consider a thorough cleaning of the interior prior to handing over a hazardous hull?
So you show up on July 21, 2020, make vague claims, "It seems...should consider...hazardous hull" that apparently nobody but you has experienced and then disappear the next day never to be seen or heard from again.
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July 22, 2020
Hmmm
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While operating the right rear jack yesterday, I heard a loud pop and now the foot will not go up or down. The motor runs normally. I realize something has broken inside and I'll fix that. But has anyone done any maintenance on these Barker jacks in the form of greasing or anything along those lines?
I have an extra jack and I suppose I'll just swap them out for the time being.
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The screws only hold the inner and outer trim rings together. They are not inherent to a watertight seal. The easiest way to get the broken ones out are to remove them all and release the inner ring. The broken screws can be removed with a pair of vice grips. The do not go into a hole in the outer frame, rather a channel that runs around the frame. This will prevent you from having to try to line up all the screws when reinstalling.
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Propane has 91,500 BTUs per gallon.
Gasoline has 116,090 BTUs per gallon
Any generator running on propane will have at least a 20% reduction in power (wattage) output. I would take this into consideration when sizing the generator for running the AC.
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4 hours ago, Ray and Susan Huff said:
On another note, I can't believe we just picked up our #699 in December and we are now talking about hull# in the 800's . . . . . Wow!!
With the trailer orders that they have received but have yet to build and deliver, they are well into 1000’s.
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On 6/4/2021 at 3:02 PM, Overland said:
I appreciate the ingenuity on display here, but I wonder if just caulking around the interior window frame wouldn't send the water into the basement rather than the bed? The bed wetting provides a good indicator that it's time to caulk the light; but water in the basement is easier to live with.
We were 40 miles into the Arkansas back country down a gravel road and it was pouring down rain. Even if we'd had the proper caulk with us at the time, everything was too wet to fool with it.
The photo was actually part of a video we shot claiming that this was the "...new, optional Oliver rainwater collection system. With enough rain it can supply all your freshwater needs..."
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2 minutes ago, bhncb said:
Sorry but I have to ask. You do realize this is not a brake light don't you?
You are correct, it isn't now, but in the early models it was. Somehow, the nomenclature just stuck. We need to come up with a more accurate name.
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On mine, the wires were fairly short. It was hard to pull it back and out of the way. Maybe you pulled a wire loose while dealing with the leak. Checking this will probably require you to pull the insulation down again and possibly remove the cover from the inside (a wire could have pulled away from the LED strip and will need to be soldered back).
As a side note, a good voltmeter can save you a world of frustration.
Older Oliver’s on the road
in General Discussion
Posted
Your Hull # 036 was one of only ten Elite I's built as 2009 models, although it was delivered to its first owner in August of 2008.