ScubaRx
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Posts posted by ScubaRx
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I looked back to see how that trip's mileage turned out. We did a lot of driving around in town once there and it brought down our average. Still not too bad.
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On 8/3/2018 at 7:52 AM, DavePhelps said:
...If the new Chevy/GMC 1500 with the new 3.0 Duramax Diesel has an exhaust brake like the 2.8 does, I would be very tempted to go that way...
Dave
Dave maybe this will help with your decision:
From: https://gm-techlink.com/?p=12048
3.0L Diesel Engine
The diesel exhaust brake function on the 3.0L diesel engine is part of the Tow/Haul Mode Grade Braking system. Tow/Haul Mode Grade Braking is only enabled while the Tow/Haul Mode is selected.
On vehicles equipped with Driver Mode Control, Tow/Haul Mode can be activated/deactivated by turning the Driver Mode knob to the left. When selected, the Tow/Haul Mode symbol will illuminate in the instrument cluster.
If the vehicle is turned off with Tow/Haul Mode active for less than four hours, Tow/Haul will remain active after the vehicle has been turned on again. Otherwise, the vehicle will start in Normal Mode.
For vehicles without Driver Mode Control, press the Tow/Haul button on the center of the instrument panel.
TIP: The Automatic Engine Stop/Start system is unavailable when the Tow/Haul Mode is active.
BONUS: Turning tow/haul on also disables the auto stop/start.-
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I'm really glad you asked...
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On 8/5/2020 at 6:04 PM, jordanv said:
...in anticipation of purchasing a light camping trailer. My wife and I decided on the Elite II and although the weight is under the Tacoma’s Max (6,400lb) I believe...
There is a statement with two caveats that I've heard hundreds of times over the past 12 years. "Oh yeah, those Oliver's are nice and all, but they're expensive and they are heavy."
We bought our first Oliver in 2008 and I thought that the coolest looking combination would be to team it up with a 2009 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. It had a 3500 tow capacity and the Oliver was stated to weigh abut 2400 pounds dry (what the hell did that even mean?) Well, who knew that with the options that were added and the water, food, clothes and all that stuff would make it weigh 3900 lbs. Jeep, big mistake. Our first trip to the mountains, by the time we got to the top we were pedal to the metal, in second gear going 20 mph. Traded it in on a used 2007 Tahoe taking a $7000 loss.
There are plenty of Elite II's out there that will easily weigh >6000 pounds. Mine comes in at better than 7200 pounds. Before we got our second Oliver, we did a nationwide search for what I believed would be the perfect tow vehicle. We went to Illinois to buy a very nice Sierra 1500 6.2L with the Max Tow Package. There are many here pulling with a 1500 pickup and are very satisfied. There's also a group here that ended up trading to get diesels because they were not satisfied with their 1500's. I am of that group and bought a Silverado 2500HD Diesel. Now, we are very satisfied, but I wish I had not spent the $$$$$ on the Sierra.
I don't have a dog in your truck selection race, but I just hate to see someone making the same very expensive mistakes that I made.
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I've st
On 8/3/2020 at 9:45 AM, Brian and Maria said:...I'll eventually have the zerk fittings switched towards the inside...
I've struggled with that choice since I first installed the Dexter EZ-Flex system on Hull # 050 back in 2016. First I installed them to the outside, ignoring the advice on YouTube to put them to the inside. I found (as you did) the tires made access to the zerks difficult.
During some axle work at the factory, I had the zerks turned to the inside. Then I found that although the zerks were not blocked, they were still not easily accessible. Scooting around on the ground under the trailer (even on a creeper) is not fun unless you're maybe 25 and weigh 125 pounds.
So at some point, I reversed them again so the zerks are toward the outside, but I replaced all of them with 45º angled ones, pointed in the correct directions for easy access.
That has been my experience with inside/outside. For yourself it would depend on how easily you can scoot around under the trailer.
If you decide to do it yourself, it has been my experience that it is hard to make every thing line up. Advice: use a couple of hydraulic jacks and do one bolt at a time, things won't shift so much.
Hope this helps...
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There should be another wet bolt at the opposite end of the leaf spring making 3 per side. The Elite II has 8 per side.
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On 7/28/2020 at 11:16 PM, Susan Huff said:
So, tell me about tornados . . . . . we will be picking up our Oliver next year, the first part of February. Traveling from the Pacific Northwest. The plan is to take I-40 on the way East, going either through Reno/Las Vegas (weather permitting) or S. California (prefer not to make the boring drive down I-5 if at all possible). We aren't worried about the passes on the trip to Tennessee since we will be driving an F-350 4WD. The route home from Tennessee, towing our Oliver, is still in question. Mom and I drove from Oregon to Memphis years ago, the first part of March, straight across country via I-40. I recall only hitting one delay, I think at Albuquerque or maybe Amarillo (snow or wind). We definitely want to stay North of I-10, to avoid Dallas-Ft. Worth. Maybe I-20??? At any rate, we can take our time and take shelter in our new Oliver, if necessary.
Would appreciate advice from anyone who has traveled from Hohenwald westward, especially towing. I know weather can be very unpredictable but we hope to pass through the mid-west before tornados become active. Also advice from those who have towed an Oliver with snow chains. My husband is a retired truck driver, but only drove the West coast Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and California. Last year we made two road trips - one to Nevada, Arizona, Utah and Idaho. the other Wyoming, Nebraska, Colorado, Idaho and Eastern Washington.
We, too, like the road less traveled and prefer staying off Interstates, when appropriate. We are looking forward to the adventure of driving cross country to take delivery of our 2021 Oliver Elite II!
You’re more likely to be hit by a tornado in the deep South during December, January or February — meteorological winter — than in June, July or August. But they are few and far between. We've encountered them several times in Arkansas but its usually been in March or April. Any traveling on I-40 in the Western US in January runs a risk of running into ice or snow. It is (somewhat) dependent on altitude. We've made the trip westward many times in January and February while traveling to Quartzsite. We've hit ice once as far south as San Antonio. We've taken I-20 several times and, as it runs well below Dallas/Fort Worth, and we never had any problems.
I've never used (or even seen) snow chains. I read somewhere years ago in a forum that they were not generally recommended for travel trailers, anyone with experience feel free to correct me.
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5 hours ago, Mattnan said:
ScubaRx,
We are at Pemaquid. Please let us know if you're in the area. We could put you up for a night or two in the barn driveway and could rig up water and 110v electric to keep batteries up maybe even a boat ride on an old converted lobster boat. Lots to do down here. We can also make some recommendations if you need.
As far as a rally goes, we might be up for one up here in Maine. Stay Healthy everyone!!!
Would you Mainers get upset if a good ole boy from Mississippi crashed that party? It wouldn't take much of an excuse for us come back to Maine. We've been up that way 3 or 4 times and have always enjoyed it.
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We have not been outside of Tupelo since returning from Quartzsite and California in late January. We've not been inside a restaurant. We have not been inside anyone's home including our children/grandchildren's. No one has been inside our home. We have taken the pandemic very seriously but we will be attending the gathering at Lake Guntersville in September. just like ourselves, I know anyone planning to attend will have thought long and hard about that decision. We plan on using good common sense and all appropriate precautions will be taken including masks and distancing. I think that most everyone is thinking along these same lines and I believe we can all have a good and safe experience.
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We have 4 different trailers that can be pulled by either of our two trucks. Three have 2 inch couplers and the Oliver has a 2-5/16 inch bulldog. The receiver on our 2500 (as on yours) is a 2-1/2" shank. You do not want to use a sleeve to reduce it to 2 inches. Buy your hitch accordingly. We bought this one. We need the adjustability for our different trailers. But I would have bought it anyway because it's pretty. 😄
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Thanks for the pdf and enlightening me about the proper way to mount that bolt. No wonder mine fell out.
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I don't think my center bolt had splines either. But, I could be wrong. Since it is not a wet bolt and there are no shoulders on it to prevent over tightening, I'm not sure if it would matter if it could rotate. If you tighten this nut too tight it would pinch the hanger against the equalizer.
What do you think?
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Unfortunately, Sligh, a tow capacity of 5000 pounds is not nearly enough for an Elite II. On average, they will weigh in at closer to 6000 pounds in full camping mode. It would actually be only marginal for the Elite as they will weigh in at 4000 pounds or better. I would want a little more lee way in towing capacity.
There are a couple of other values you also have to take into consideration:
1 - Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) which is the total the truck can safely weigh when it’s loaded. That includes the curb weight – the truck with nothing in it – plus whatever goes in, including passengers and cargo. It also includes tongue weight, which isn’t the weight of the trailer itself, but the downward force it exerts on the trailer hitch ball.
2 - Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR), which is the maximum of the truck and everything in it, plus the trailer and the weight of whatever’s in it. I was unable to find this information anywhere on the net with many Jeep Cherokee owners complaining about it not being posted on the vehicle (by law, it should be on a label stuck to the inside of the driver's door post.)
In your case, I'm concerned that you would quickly run out of carrying capacity inside the Jeep trying to pull something as heavy as either of these trailers.
I know these answers are not what you wanted to hear. But for safety's sake and to paraphrase Chief Martin Brody, 'You're gonna need a bigger truck.'
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3 hours ago, Geronimo John said:
My EZ Flex heart bolt also came loose last year. The nut was no where to be found, and only two threads of the bolt kept the EZ Flex...
A group of us attended the 50th anniversary of the Boler fiberglass trailer in Winnipeg in 2018. We were there to represent Oliver and show off the brand. We had thousands of people come to us and view the four we had on display. There was one guy that hung around and looked at mine for about an hour. While I was talking to some other folks he came back and stood there patiently until I was finished. He then motioned for me to follow him around to the street side of the trailer. Pointing down between the tires he said, "I didn't want anyone to hear me, but you've got a problem..." Sure enough, the nut was long gone and that bolt was hanging be two threads. Luckily, I had an extra lock nut for it.
When I talked to Jason and Dexter, neither had any knowledge of such an event happening in an OE2. Now it appears that there may be at least two of us.
I told Oliver about it when we got back...
Other Owners: If this has happened to you, or know of other incidents, please reply to this issue. Thanks, GJ
Just for your own peace of mind, in addition to complete sets of bearings and grease seals, it would be advisable to carry some replacement nuts for just such rare occurrences.
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3 hours ago, mossemi said:
I would if we dumped your tools. Or maybe even Steve if we dumped his spare parts and tools.😉
Mossey
Ok, I'm crying uncle. Anything but my tools. 😢
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18 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:
My Ram Rebel is the best! But if I get a 3/4 ton diesel it will be even more best!! 😎
My truck can beat up your truck with one wheel tied behind its tailgate. So there...
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The Oliver Travel Trailers were not originally designed with more than two people in mind. But, that is not to say that it can't be done, we travel in a twin bed Elite II with two adults, one 100 pound Doberman and two other 10-15 pound dogs. We make out fine with the big dog sleeping on the side dinette bed. Yes, I know he's a dog and could sleep on the floor, but he's a big dog with a rather mean temperament so you do what you gotta do. Actually, if you don't make his bed down for him by dark, he'll just stand there and cry until you do.
In an Elite II you have a choice of two bed layouts. Both have the side dinette that makes down into a single that is comfortable for one adult or possibly two small children. The rear sleeping area can consist of a large king bed or two twin beds.
If your family of four consists of two adults and two younger children, it can be done quite nicely by letting the older child have the side dinette and the younger child sleeping with the parents. If the other two people are older teenagers or adults there's just no place for four to sleep. If that is the case some folks have opted to put the older kids outdoors in a tent. Which is where they probably wanted to be anyway.
I hope this gives you the information you need to help you make a decision based on the dynamics of your family.
Good luck in your search. If you can make the Oliver work for you, I promise you will love the trailer.
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Water is always our limiting factor in length of time boondocking. Other than Quartzsite, we are never in one place for more than 4-5 days. Even when we are water is not far from us. With their unique (in the Fiberglass Trailer world) system of valves that allow your on-board pump to put water into the fresh tank from any source, if you can get water to the trailer, you can utilize it. We carry two 20 Liter military water cans with us for just that purpose as well as a 10 Liter can just for the dogs.
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53 minutes ago, Overland said:
If I bring my trailer over, will you finish the plumbing work I started? Also, it could use a coat of wax.
I'll do your plumbing, I draw the line at waxing.
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58 minutes ago, Susan Huff said:
We are still undecided on lithium pkg vs solar/AGM pkg. I calculate the cost difference at $3,600 (solar pkg + soft start = $5,400). Plus additional 1000w inverted power. So, is it worth an $3,600 to get lithium?
My thoughts:
1. Do we need 1000w more inverted power?
- If you're planning to run the A/C off the Lithiums.
2. AGM - 220 available ah (440ah @ 50% discharge) Lithium - 340 available ah (400ah 85% discharge) Would we use 120 additional ah?
- See # 1
3. Battery life: Lithium = 2x AGM life?
- More ++ than 2x
4. Cost of battery replacement - 2 lithium vs 4 AGM?
- Probably 3.5x
5. Weight - not sure of the differential between Oliver supplied 4 AGM and 2 Lithium
- 275 lb vs about 75 lb
6. Maintenance, monitoring etc - no experience with lithium
- A little more with Lithium (temps etc.)
7. Solar battery charging - our RV experience has been with 200w flat panel (inefficient?) solar panels with two 12v flooded house batteries, mostly in marginal sun exposure. This setup barely kept batteries topped off with basic onboard draws, including macerator toilet and no additional inverter usage.
- This is a good reason why you need the additional amp hours. But...there will be an additional solution to your flat panels in the near future.
8. High watt power usage would be appliances - toaster oven (1800w), inverter burner (100-1800w), electric kettle (1500w), hair dryer (1800w). No microwave and would use generator for necessary AC. Other power demands - lights, LP ignition, fans, water pump, cell phone and electronics charging, phantom draws. We only occasionally use TV.
The additional power supplied by the lithium package is attractive, though I'm sure we could manage just fine without it; the solar package would certainly be a definite improvement over our current system.
Is it worth $3,600 for power we might not use?
- The money is something only you can determine. You can manage without it, especially if you have an external source of electricity (generator, hookup.) Here may a question, the answer to which, will tell you what you need to know.
- Will the majority of your camping be done boondocking or hooked up in an RV park? Our ratio is about 95% boondocking so it would definitely be advantageous to us. If it were 50/50, not so much. Only you can answer that question.
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19 minutes ago, Susan Huff said:
Take a number????? 😉
Sure, always glad to help.
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4 minutes ago, Jairon said:
I didn't think you were an employee I just thought that the juxtaposition of your quote with something sales might say was too funny to go unsaid. 😁 I appreciate the info though!
We're not that far from the factory. If you want extra outlets installed, bring your trailer to our house after your pickup and together we'll put outlets any where you want them. Won't cost you a dime.
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4 hours ago, Jairon said:
Customer: "So where do we plug our laptops in while we're in the bedroom?"
Sales guy: "Outlets are so easy to install, just do them yourself post delivery. Pick where you want them to be, cut a hole for a box, run the wires from the nearest outlet and Bob’s your uncle. Don’t worry about overloading a circuit, it won’t happen unless you try to run too many things at the same time. Just adding an extra outlet will not affect anything. "
Customer: "uhhh..."
😜I'll give the sales department a call today and try and get to the bottom of this. I'll update the thread when I know more.
Jairon, I'm not a sales guy or an Oliver employee, just a long time happy owner attempting to offer you good advice and an easy, logical alternative to your problem. I can tell you that Oliver will not add any personal options during your build. They will, however, add them after the fact in the service department. This will cost extra. I understand that it seems counter productive (from a customer's viewpoint) to do it that way, but it is the business model that Oliver has adopted and they stand firmly behind it.
I spoke with one of the sales personnel at the factory this morning. It appears that in the 2020 models all the 120v outlets that were down low at the rear on previous models were removed. Why...??? They were replaced with one 120v outlet on the underside of the attic storage area on one side and a 12v (USB?) "charging station" on the other side.
The word on the street is there will be a different arrangement in the 2021 models but, it is as yet undetermined.
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Outlets are so easy to install, just do them yourself post delivery. Pick where you want them to be, cut a hole for a box, run the wires from the nearest outlet and Bob’s your uncle. Don’t worry about overloading a circuit, it won’t happen unless you try to run too many things at the same time. Just adding an extra outlet will not affect anything.
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HOW TO: Bleach service tee to sterilize water during tank fill
in Ollie Modifications
Posted
We've always just poured the bleach into the other end of an attached hose prior to attaching to the spigot. Turn on the water and it just washes right into the tank.
For sanitizing, NOT drinking, we use 1/2 to 2/3 cup of bleach for the 30+ gallon fresh tank and all the associated pipes. Just run each faucet until you can smell the chlorine. We usually let it sit overnight and then drain and rinse. Don't forget the outside wash station.