ScubaRx
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Posts posted by ScubaRx
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8 hours ago, DeeKay said:
All this talk about generators and nobody is discussing the power needs of the their trailer and the appropriate wattage rating of the generator to match those requirements. Maybe this is discussed in a different topic, but it seems appropriate here, too, as we're talking about powering A/C and what generator to buy.
Does anybody know the wattage requirements of the Elite I and II, assuming use of all lights, furnace, water heater, refrigerator, microwave, etc.? Worst-case scenario in the dead of winter or a blazing hot day with A/C on.
Once you have those numbers, you can find a generator that provides the sustained power to meet your consumption. The weight of the generator can be a factor,and I personally wouldn't want to buy one that is much bigger than I need.
Really enjoying learning from all of you experienced campers!
You probably couldn't afford or move a generator large enough to power "everything." Our 3000 watt Yamaha will easily run our 13500btu air conditioner with no easy start. Turn on the electric water heater element also and it will shut down. Realistically, you only need one large enough to run the A/C and the charger/converter at the same time. Everything else will be running on propane or 12 volts.
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3 hours ago, katanapilot said:
... (can't stay in the trailer without a toilet) ...
You stated in your original post: “When cleaning our never used Dometic flush toilet....”
????
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On 9/5/2020 at 10:18 AM, HMD1056 said:
In the early Elites, wasn't there a floorplan that had a back single bed with a seat on the driver's side and a fold up desk/table on the passenger side? I would swear I saw that plan...in a picture, somewhere.
Yes, we had hull # 026, one of the (very) few twin bed models in the early Elites. It was just as you described it, the second bed was where the dinette is. We ate off the folding table midships. We needed something bigger so we sold it in 2013 and bought the first Elite II, hull # 050.
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Very nice truck...
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You guys are overthinking this. Pop N Lock. I’ve installed four of these on different vehicles.
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6 hours ago, Kgeb said:
Has anyone used the yearly service “tune up” and not found it to be the quality of the Oliver standard?
I'm unclear on what you mean, could you be more specific about the problem?
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Sounds like fun, we're in. I might suggest we have a "for sale" table also. For a higher class of "junk."
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Daniel, the first 49 trailers that Oliver built were all Elites. This was between late 2007 and early 2009. As you recall there was a downturn in the economy about that time and Oliver made the difficult decision to halt their trailer production. There was no layoff of personnel.
In 2013, they decided to reopen the trailer line but their plan was to only make the Elite II's. After many requests from potential customers, in 2015 they reintroduced the Elite.
The general layout and floor plan is essentially the same. In the early Elites, if there was ever a problem with the refrigerator, the entire front wall had to be removed in order to get the old one out and the new one in. I'm not sure if that ever had to be done, but it would have been a lot of trouble. That problem was fixed in the later models.
The early Elites had the furnace mounted in the cabinet facing along side the drawers. It is now moved to beneath the forward most dinette seat and is ducted into the cabin and bathroom.
The upper cabinets in the early Elites had sliding doors while the later Elites have drop down doors like in the Elite II's. The cabinets are somewhat larger on the latest ones.
Beneath the benchs and dinette seats of the older models were custom molded inserts that dropped into these areas for storage. These were eliminated in the newer models.
On the current Elites, the suspension has been lowered, the air conditioner is a smaller model, there is more storage (both more drawers and the aforementioned larger upper cabinets), the bathroom window is larger, all lighting is LED and the shower drain system is greatly improved.
There are probably more changes that have been made. We owned hull # 026 from 2008-2013. We bought hull # 050 (Elite II) in 2014.
Others will chime in perhaps, if I have misspoken anywhere, please feel free to correct me.
Happy travels...
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What are Oliver Owners called? This was discussed at the rally several years ago. If I remember correctly, "Otters" was the front runner. I believe we said that the Owners rally could be called an OTTOR - Oliver Travel Trailer Owner's Rally.
What does everyone think?
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2 hours ago, Pookies said:
Scuba RX,
Scuba, I love this idea where you added the extra storage under the twin beds. Do you know if this is something Oliver is still willing to do? Also how much did it cost for this modification? We have one that is being built starting in December and I would love to add this modification.
The factory quit offering this as an option several years ago. They have also stopped doing custom work during the initial build. These would be incredibly easy to add after the fact...if they would be willing to mold them for you. Who is your salesperson?
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Well, it is solar ready...
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Right before my junior year at Ole Miss a group of friends and myself borrowed a neighbors pop-up camper and I pulled it to the Great Smoky Mountains to camp for a week. I wonder if my old Vette would pull the Outlaw Oliver? Doubt it.
But, I did see this at the Winnipeg Boler Rally in 2018.
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First gear, it's alright
Second gear, I lean right
Third gear, hang on tight
Faster, it's alright...with apologies to Brian Wilson and Mike Love
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2 hours ago, jordanv said:
Well dang. What should I be looking into then? I know the F150 3.5L V6 can tow 11,000 I believe.
What towing max wouldn't struggle going up a mountain?
Torque, more is better. All the 3/4 ton diesels will have more than twice as much as their gasoline powered counterparts. The Big Three’s diesel’s torque will range up to over 1000 lb/ft at a cruising rpm of less than 2000.
These trucks won’t struggle going up or down a mountain.
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All we have to do to keep the bathroom warm is leave the door open. No tricks with the vents or fan. If we're taking a shower, we keep it warm in there with a small electric space heater.
Just messin' with you about that space heater...
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1 hour ago, Susan Huff said:
...the standard heater will do fine. We only turn it on our water heater when hot water is needed. We'll just have to remember to do that a bit sooner. I also like that we can use shore power to heat water where the Truma is only LP powered.
I figured out what the optimum water temperature is (for us). I placed a temperature sensor from our suite under the insulation of the water heater tank. When we need hot water, I just watch the temp monitor until the water heater measures the correct temp and then we know it's ready to go. It takes a lot less time to heat up and doesn't use as much propane.
Full disclosure: I got that idea from topgun2.
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On 8/13/2020 at 11:55 AM, Susan Huff said:
Interesting . . . . . we have a 2013 F350. I don't know if it has the RVC and we have not towed with it since trading our 5th-wheel for a camper van. It does have towing mode...
Our 2014 Sierra 1500 had it. I panicked on a trip when I glanced down at the Alternator gauge and saw it was not putting out anything. I stopped at a GMC dealer in some little town and was informed about what was going on. Turning on the lights or tow/haul mode will initiate it, but it is not instantaneous. It took about 10-15 minutes for the needle on the gauge to register an increased output. I suppose the Silverado 2500 has it also, but I've never noticed.
I would be remiss to recommend not using your vehicle to add to your trailer battery charging and just relying on solar. Like Mike stated, the sun does not always shine and a few continuous dark, cloudy, rainy days will necessitate turning to other means of charging such as putting the generator out in the rain and getting it running or (horrors) driving somewhere you can pay for a hookup. Or, you could always just go home.
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24 minutes ago, beaker said:
This will be our first Rally and only our third trip in our Ollie. We’ve kept our reservations and hope to (safely) meet some fellow Ollie owners.
We'll look forward to meeting you.
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Out Hull # 050's 2013 era AGM's are still cooking along. When they go to battery heaven, I'll replace them with Lithium.
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Mike, as your Oliver is one of the early ones, it likely has two 3-way valves instead of the 4 on-off valves of later builds. The is the original (as delivered) valves in our Hull # 050. Maybe this will help trouble shoot your valve positions.
This a photo of the later valve layout. They both do the same thing, but the factory altered their manufacturing plan.
I removed my manual valves and replaced them with electric ones. Now a flip of a switch takes me from "Normal" to "Auxiliary".
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Glad you've gotten squared away, it would take a very large gennie to run the A/C and the Water Heater. Ours is 3000 watts and it won't do it. I believe you will be fine now. Switch the water heater to propane and everything will be right with the world again.
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You're overloading the generator it appears. That will shut off the electricity coming in (without killing the generator.) Make sure your water heater is not on electric. Check your generator for an overload indicator or reset switch.
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The only thing I know that would cause a complete shutdown is no power coming into the trailer.
I assume the unit is unplugged?
Electric water heater off?
Does the EMS reset itself and do all that a second time if you restart the generator?
Are you getting an overload warning on your generator?
I've never had mine shut completely off.
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Head toward the front so we can watch TV. Wait, that TV has not been on in years.
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My Grey Water Tank will not drain but trickle out and does not seem to empty
in General Discussion
Posted
You might try this if you suspect (or know) the vent pipe is blocked by dirt daubers. Make sure the back flow preventer valve is open. Remove the outside vent cover and stick a hose down it. Flush with a copious amount of water.