Jump to content

geO

Member+
  • Posts

    255
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Posts posted by geO

  1. 22 hours ago, ScubaRx said:

    As everyone has now has discovered, you should NEVER try to lift the trailer from in front of the tires. I tried that once just as George did and by the time I got the rear wheel off the ground, the front jack was at least 18 inches high.

    In the picture, if that jack had slipped off the sub frame, the jack stand would have punched up through the bottom of the hull. It might have taken out the right side bottom galley drawer as well.

    Best Practice would be to always place jack on the steel sub frame behind the tires. Keep trailer hooked to the truck with parking brake on. If it makes you feel better, chock the opposite side of the trailer. This will lift both tires off the ground and allow you to do your work. I recommend always using a jack stand (or two) under the lifted side. This way, if the jack slips or leaks down the jack stand will catch the weight without everything crashing down and ruining the rest of your day.

    Thanks for this tip Steve. Today while doing the other side I used your method and both tires lifted off the ground easily. This will be my method from now on. 

  2. 15 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

    Geo, in your photo, it looks like you might be using stacked patio blocks/pavers  to support your jacks? I'd be extremely uncomfortable with that, as well.

    I had a bad experience once with a concrete block shattering under the weight of a jack. Never again. We always use wood. Sometimes,  you can't see the hairline cracks, or internal cracking, in those formed concrete blocks.

    Just had that happen! Shattered in a bunch on pieces. Off to Home Depot for some wood.

    • Like 3
    • Care 1
  3. Thank you all for your quick replies. I sensed possible danger here and I do like to be safety oriented. For someone like me a video is my best method of instruction. It clears away any doubt in my mind. 

    I must also state that you guys on this website are amazing with your level of knowledge!

    • Like 1
  4. On 4/28/2022 at 2:03 PM, topgun2 said:

    1 - take the four screws that hold the remote panel off and gently remove the panel.  There should be a phone style connector in that back of that panel - unplug it and re-plug it in three of four times  - and - do the same thing where the other end of the wire goes into the inverter.

    2 - Check to make sure that the wires (both ground and positive) going into the inverter are tight.

    3 - now re-try the remote switch.

    If it works you are done.  If it doesn't work - do what they said.

    New remote panels are not all that expensive on Amazon but, hopefully, you don't have to go that route.

    Bill

    I did what Bill suggested and ended up needing a replacement. Got it from Amazon.

    • Like 1
  5. 14 hours ago, FrankC said:

    If you do buy replacement bearings, make sure you get genuine Timken parts.  There are a lot of counterfeit “Timken” bearings out there, especially on Amazon.  Here’s the link to the Timken site to find an authorized distributor.   And the complete bearing assembly needs to be replaced, which means pulling out the old seal and knocking out the old outer races that are pressed into the hub.  So a few special tools are needed.   I just replaced mine.  I’ll do another post with the tools that I used to make the job easier. 

    https://www.timken.com/contact-distributors/

     

     

    FrankC, thanks for the informative info and your write up of tools needs is very helpful!

     

    Thanks!

    • Like 3
  6. I have researched several video’s on how to repack the bearings on my Oliver and am looking forward to this task. I own a 2017 Elite II and with all the different numbers I’ve seen can someone tell me what Timken bearings and seals I will need for my model? Sorry if it has been posted but I get lost in the numbers. I figure I would replace them since they got over 60k on them.

  7. On 4/1/2022 at 2:53 PM, csevel said:

    I know I'm reviving an old thread but my '17 does not have the steel overlay forward OR aft of the tires as shown in the photo above.  I know because I used a magnet to see.   Am I safe in just using the spring plate to place jack stands under while I do bearing, lube and brake work??  

    I'm getting ready to do the same thing and was just wondering that a few days ago.

    • Like 2
×
×
  • Create New...