Yukon

Thanks i will check it out, This was the first time i winterized a trailer and i went through the video step by step, i may have screwed up but thought i did it correctly.....its getting me second guess my work......thanks

It was 22 degrees in the North East last night, i discovered anti freeze dripping from the seep hole just fwd of the steps, i also noticed the PSI on the two faucets non existent . I checked all hatches no water visible or wetness. Checked shower drain fitting all appears normal, will pull a drawer tomorrow and look under sink . This might be a major issue if tanks need to be pulled .......any ideas?

Ok here goes'' when one boondocks requiring heat'' the furnace blower is run off the juice stored in Batteries Correct? If so how long could one expect the batteries to handle the Blower operation.? Yep we have solar Panels and plan on getting a Generator next year.............Thanks Yukon

Overland, got it '' I am starting to become interested in the Extreme heater option mentioned '' i need to look into it more'' that maybe a good option thanks Yukon

Thanks Overland, Jason sent out a winterization Blog and he did not recommend we blowout the waterlines, if i remember correctly it was due to not completely removing all water using that method. I also would be a little concerned on how much PSI of air to use. Remember Oliver gives us a water pressure reducer for good reason......Yukon

Ok'' Thanks much'' all appreciated. Generator for sure a good idea. portable water , cube heater and the best idea i see is to operate with winterization in effect. Having once hunted in cold temps out of a converted school bus we dug a latrine, carried portable water in jugs for cooking and cleaning. I am a little surprised that a small heater is not supplied in the area of the water pump and water supply lines. Once temps moderate i can dump the anti freeze if i have a city supply of fresh water to flush. Then if temps crash i would have to winterize all over again. I placed a thermometer in the street side hatch under the bunk compartment this AM and closed up all hatch to get a feel for the temp down there with a space heater operating via the cabin, the temp here outside is 25 degrees and i will see if any residual heat from the cabin will make its under the mattresses and closed compartments. Thanks Guys''..............Yukon

Ok i have reviewed and executed the Pink Winterization procedures from the Oliver Video. I have a questions for people operating in below freezing conditions. I have elected to keep heat on in the oliver over the winter and will try to maintain above 32 degrees . I also allowed heated air to enter the compartments under the bunks via removal of the access ports under the beds and elevating the Mattresses . Question 1 For guys hunting or boon docking in remote areas off the grid what procedures do you use to keep the Oliver from freezing Up.? I am assuming the Heating via Propane Tanks are always on and city water connection are discontinued and water is drawn via the Fresh Water holding tank and pump. ''' What other operations am i forgetting ?..that are required to not allow freeze Up''......thanks Yukon.

Thanks, it works great for my old eyes! I used safety Yellow''

Do you think they might put a door access in the cover.?

Jason responded and said they do not use Gaskets on the new Trailers'' as you guys noted. Also he said some people were removing the Gaskets and using silicone sealant . So i guess thats the Fix. I will try that Capt. Tollye's stuff first. Thanks for the info''................Yukon

Anyone get a final fix on the bleeding light issue'', we have hull number 311.......thanks Yukon

So how is this thing suppose to work'' ? Push up and it locks? pull down and it releases? Maybe I have a bad one '' it deploys when it wants too. Is it a one hand operation?.................Please advise............Yukon

That gold looking latch pivots around and still deploys the TV when it wants too. I will try tightening the hex nuts '' thanks . will still backup with velcro strap.

I could not agree more with John Davies, who came up with this? We were driving home and the mount on the bracket decided to deploy on it own'', You could hear the TV crash in the downward Position. Hell we were doing 60MPH and you could hear it in the Truck! This is my fix a velcro strap........The best i could come up with.

Yes i did file a warranty claim to replace the new main box , directed to do so via Progressive. And no''I did not remove the Oliver installed hard wired unit. As for the reason i had to go through all of this BS was i would lose power and show error code E9 via the remote Monitor . Why I went with a portable EMS was it was recommended by a RV Tech '' his reason was the transfer switch was in line before the built in Progressive Surge Protector . And the cost of replacement of the transfer switch would exceed the cost of a portable EMS. I also agree that the remote EMS and its data displayed is better than lifting the bed up to monitor data. The two units like each other so far, they show the same data.

Ok think i can put this problem to bed. The problem was the main surge protector unit. Figuring this all out was a real PIA . So if you run into this''' this is what i think you need to consider. First get a good Electrician that is educated in Campground power supply installation only'' . 2. Don't rely on Progressive to figure out your issues'' they are Code directed from readings from the remote monitor. 3. Progressive tech support changes out parts'' thats it! 4. A portable EMS is the first defense against any bad issues thrown your way and the built in Oliver EMS has no issue with this Portable EMS being in line ahead of it. 5. A portable EMS is easy to change out'' just unplug. (Caution I hear people like to steal them). And last the Power Cord supplied by Oliver will not fully fit in Remote EMS I purchased '' the pull handle interferes with the WX cover. Thanks to all that helped with this issue.......Yukon

Thanks for that Bill, I have check the batteries, not educated enough to see how that would come into play but not surprised . The E9 code could mean bad remote display, bad data cable , bad main surge protector box and now from you a lose batt connection . The RV tech i hired checked everything from the shore tie to the surge protector. And he feels it is important to place a remote EMS at the shore tie box. He says it will protect transfer switch and fwd. I did order a EMS and will install and give it a week and see what happens...... thanks for the info.

Thanks John'' The last time i was hooked up i had major concerns with screwing up the camera. It hits right on the tailgate lens. thanks I will give them a call.

F150 Lariet , tail gate will not lay flat due to Bulldog hitch, In my configuration i don't see how the basket will work? Fords backup assist does work well if all steps on setup are followed.

Update, Had to bring in a RV tech person to trouble shoot the Electrical system from Shore tie and then out. Turns out the Remote display and Data cable appear not to be the issue ,even though the E9 error code points in this direction. The surge Protector main unit has at some point overheated. The Tech person recommended i establish another protection EMS right out of the shore tie box, He is concerned the power transfer box is susceptible to damage as well. Once I receive the remote EMS and plug in for a week i should have my answer.

Toogenifer how did you guys make out with your surge protector? I am having issues as well...............Yukon

Overland the progressive surge protecter has a byPass switch but you are not protected 'once you use that option,' so its important to get this issue resolved, I also think i should have the option to use a external surge protector .''

Update'' disconnected the remote display cable and started up power'' it came on and went out a hour later. This is starting to drive me crazy '' starting to think it the main part of the surge protector'' waiting for tech support to get back to me.

This is how i have been getting on the roof, works with knee pads and safety lines. The ladder would be a poor choice for on the road ops.

2017 F 150 lariet will not allow the tailgate to fully lower. sucks