DonnaDuane

Seems some of my posts are not showing up here. I posted the following last night to see if any of you know that this means. When I run the generator the LED on the EMS switch lights up, so power is getting to that switch. However, still no power to trailer. When it's switched to the ON position, I get the following codes: 128, OA, 60H, E2, PE2 Just spoke with Oliver. Here's what I learned. Those codes are saying either the Neutral Ground plug is faulty, or the surge protector is faulty, or the connection to the bypass switch is faulty. He recommended having an RV Tech check it out after trying a new Neutral Ground Plug. Duane

Yes. have been using a Bonding Neutral plug since I got it. I have been using the generator for power to the trailer for the past 5 winters, as that's when I use the Oly most. I take it skiing. I just learned from Service that I need to record the messages on the EMS LED when switched on. It displayed an error message and some other info. I checked the circuit breaker panel for issues and found none. Thank you for your suggestions and keep them coming if you know how to get this thing working again.

Yes. Using front generator/shore power hook up. Excuse my ignorance but where is the EMS display? When I look in the compartment there’s a little box with a led display and a switch. I’ve tried flipping the switch but nothing changed. The usual click when the system switches from battery to AC didn’t happen.

I have the same adapter I’ve used for years that I plug the 30Amp cable into

Any ideas why my generator power isn’t showing up in the trailer despite being plugged in the same as always. The only thing that has happened since I last ran the generator last Winter is my water pump stopped working, so repair guy ran new positive line from switch to pump. could the repair guy have done something to prevent generator power to enter the trailer? thank you

I've noticed that several screw holes are stripped, and the screws are very rusty from exposure to the elements. Can anyone advise me on how to fix existing holes, or get slightly larger screws that are less likely to rust. When screwing into fiberglass, is it necessary to tap the holes, and should I use some kind of thread lock? Thank you, Duane

Thank you. I have easy access to the switch just under the kitchen sink. I just need to know how to test lines for continuity

How does one check the continuity of the Ground Wire? Also, could it be the Switch at the sink or the connections to the switch? If so, how do I check those? I really appreciate any help on this. Duane

So here's the latest on my non working water pump. I ordered and installed a new pump and guess what? It doesn't make a peep either. Just spoke with Mike in Service and learned that checking voltage to the pump requires testing the Ground wire too the pump while testing the Red power coming in to the pump. I had simply grounded the multimeter to the aluminum frame and got 12.3 volts. So, we could have a faulty Ground issue. I will keep you posted.

I had a plastic bra installed on mine, similar to the one on my car. I drive to ski areas every weekend throughout the winter so it takes a beating from sand on the road.

I have an Elite I which is configured differently from a II. All 20 amp fuses in the panel are Good. I checked wire connections at the pump, and they appear to be Good. I need to know if the fuse is located somewhere else on my Elite I

I have a 2018 Elite I so my fuse panel is the rear most cabinet. None of the fuses are labeled Water Pump.

Is there a fuse for the pump? If so, where is it located?

Our water pump suddenly stopped working. Any ideas on where to start trouble shooting are appreciated. We’re camping now so we’re stuck without it. Thank you, Duane and Donna

My new CO/Propane Detector says to disconnect power before installing. Do I need to disconnect a battery cable to shut off power to detector wires? Or, is there an easier way?

Hello gang. Had a fabulous weekend of ski racing in Hailey Idaho. Happy to share I de-winterized successfully and the Truma worked perfectly. I’ve never decalcified the Truma as I only run Bull Run (Portland’s ridiculously pure water supply) water through it. Thank you to everyone for your help and suggestions.

I did learn that the Black Tank Flush line has a check valve that requires one to pump hard to get antifreeze past it.

In answer to your "stupid" questions LOL I checked for sufficient propane - had 2 nearly full tanks Water temp was same in bath as in kitchen. Went from normal hot to lukewarm after about 20 seconds. I did not test in Eco. I had it on Comfort the entire time I let the water run for about 30 seconds and it continued to be lukewarm. I didn't reboot using your procedure. I simply turned it off inside and out, then waited before turning back on outside before turning it back on inside. I've never put it in Clean/Decalcify mode. Is it possible it could got there on it's own?

It turns out that both shower faucets were closed, so that's not the cause of my lukewarm water. Any other ideas? I leave for Sun Valley Idaho Thursday morning and it will be 15 degrees at night, so would like my hot water back. Also, does anyone know where I might find Winterizing specifically for an 2018 Elite I? I've attempted to follow the video for the Elite II, but am never confident I've got all the valves configured correctly. Got antifreeze to interior faucets and toilet, and a dribble to outside shower, but when I attempted to fill the Black Tank Flush line, it seemed to not go in. Much of the antifreeze squirted out where the hose connects to the Ollie. Thoughts?

Thank you Steve. I will check my outside shower, despite thinking I always keep those off. I'll let you know what I find.

This weekend my Truma did something weird. It produced hot water as usual, however after a few seconds the temperature would drop to luke warm and stay there until I turned water off and back on. When it came back on it would be hot for a few seconds but return to luke warm. There were no error codes happening, so no idea what's going on. Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated. Thank you,Duane

All is well. Thank you all for your help. I got everything connected properly and now have power for my trip this evening to Bend Oregon where it’s about 10 degrees. Getting the terminal bolts in with all the cables is certainly a bear. Glad I won’t be doing that again soon.

After talking to the people I bought the batteries from, I learned that I didn't put it back together as it had been, despite my efforts to be careful to note how the originals had been wired. I connected positive to positive (parallel, 6V system), when I should have connected positive to negative to create a 12V system in series. Thank you all for your help. I will correct this when I get home from work tonight, and let you know if all is well after making this change.

Here’s what I see.

Can they be checked while connected to the Ollie or do I need to unbolt them first?