dougi

I have a gas quick connect on my 5th wheel and I've never used it. Why? Because you are limited as to where you can use your propane appliance by the length of your hose. I simply have a light and small propane tank like this one (take a look, it's GREAT): http://www.rvsupplywarehouse.com/produc ... m/pid/3587 Air conditioners come with thermostats on them, so you don't have to have the optional one from Oliver. The one they sell also controls the furnace and is mounted near the bed so you don't have to get up to change the settings on your A/C or your furnace. It is strictly a convenience and is not necessary. I opted for one, simply so I would not have to get out of bed to adjust the furnace or the AC if I was too hot or cold. I'm getting spoiled in my old age.

Things that RVers might want to use that require 115V AC power, other than a hair drier, could be: Curling irons Microwave oven Electric razor Satellite receiver for watching satellite TV Many TV's are 115V AC only, especially the larger ones. A coffee maker A toaster for making toast. Power tools, like a drill, a saw, or an impact driver, or recharging same. To know what size inverter you need, simply add up the wattage of any AC appliances you might be using at the same time. The average RV will use at least 50 amp-hours of electricity per day and 100 amp-hours is more like it if you use a coffee maker, a toaster, or equivalent. Some of these appliances are available in 12V DC models and those are preferable if they work well. They are preferable because anytime you use an inverter, you are loosing efficiency, anywhere from 10-20%. I recommend a book you can get at Camping World, and other places: "Living on 12 Volts with Ample Power," by David Smead and Ruth Ishihara. It is excellent and not overly technical. It will help you understand RV and boat 12 Volt electrical systems, including all the modifications that are necessary for happy boon docking. The first thing to understand are the batteries, and this book does an excellent job of explaining their proper care and maintenance, along with everything you need to know about inverters and smart chargers. If you don't want to immerse yourself in the subject to that extent, I suggest you never camp without shore power. If you do, you will likely run down your batteries and be unable to recharge them in less than three days of continuous hookups to shore power.

The charger that comes with the Legacy is standard fare, and will only be serviceable when the trailer is hooked up to shore power. For camping beyond one day while only using the lights for a few hours, the charger is woefully inadequate. The "Charge Wizard" is, IMO, worthless. I've heard others say they like it, but when the charge rate was measured while my trailer had that set up, it was charging at a rate of less than 3 amps per hour, even when hooked up to shore power and the batteries half discharged. At that charge rate it would take several days to charge the batteries to full capacity. IMO, a "smart charger" with a capacity equal to at least 1/4 of your battery bank's amp hour rating is essential. You can expect to pay at least 3 or 4 hundred dollars for a 40 or 50 amp charger, which is what you would need with a two battery bank. The "charge wizard" cost about 25 bucks and, based on my experience, does absolutely nothing.

Jam49: An inverter charger is not needed UNLESS you camp without electrical hookups, like at a National Park, a Wall*Mart parking lot, or anywhere you don't have access to an electrical outlet. You can get an inverter with out a charger, a charger without an inverter, or a combo unit that has both. The inverter converts 12V DC to 115V AC, so that you can run things like a satellite receiver box for your TV, or any other electrical device that requires 115V AC electricity. The size inverter you need depends on the electrical load you plan on putting on your system. Some folks want to be able to use a hair dryer, which uses at least 1600 watts and requires a large capacity inverter. Some only want to power a laptop, which requires only a small (portable, plug-in) inverter. The charger simply recharges your batteries, and in my opinion is the most important of the two devices. A "smart" charger" (three or four phase) allows you to quickly and safely recharge your batteries. With a smart charger, which come in various sizes, you can recharge your batteries much quicker than with a standard charger, saving you run time on your generator. You need a smart charger sized to your battery bank. If you have a 200 Amp-hour battery bank, then you need a charger with about 1/4 of that amperage, or a 50 amp charger. If you camp without electrical hookups and want to have 115V AC electrical service and a battery bank that won't let you down, you need to look into these devices and educate yourself on them. They are expensive, costing at least $1,000 for a good inverter/charger and monitor for your battery bank. The cheapest way to go is to never camp without an electrical hookup, but that limits you greatly, and puts you further from the peaceful out of the way camp sites that so many people go camping to enjoy. Happy camping.

I am seeking input on the following Oliver factory options: Generator Quick Connect, priced at $719 Soap dispenser, kitchen, priced at $66 Soap dispenser (3 way shower), priced at $71 Twin Bed Setup, priced at $720 (I've seen the pictures, but they don't tell me anything) Back Up Camera, priced at $840 Thermostat for A/C (and heat, I think), priced at $215 Solar Ready option, no price given. If anyone has any of these options in their trailer, please tell me how you like them, if you think they are worth the extra $, and what benefits they give you, as opposed to not having them. I already own two Honda 2000i generators with the Parallel Power Kit. What would the Generator Quick Connect option do for me? I already own two nice solar panels that I can use individually or in series. Would the Solar Ready option be helpful? I think it includes a solar controller and a battery charging monitor of some kind. Robert is out sick and is currently unavailable.

Thanks Sherry, I'll get the awning, based on the favorable comments I have received.

I just ordered a new Oliver Elite on June 30, and requested delivery during the last half of September. I did not want the unit any earlier and they accommodated my delivery date. I expect they are a small family business, doing the best they can with what they have to work with. Small businesses are a challenge. Everyone dictates to the small business owner, your suppliers and your customers. Making units that conform to the customer's desires is not as easy as some may think. It's time consuming explaining everything to customers and honoring their requests. It causes general and administrative costs to go up well beyond what would be the case with the cookie cutter building process. I will not pass any judgments at this time because I have not been a part of the process long enough to do so. I am dealing with a person by the name of Michelle Sisco, via e-mail. So far, so good, but I have a lot of questions to get answers to in order to make an informed decision about the options and the ordering process. I have two more weeks, according to Michelle, to make all my decisions about the trailer. I feel that target date will not be difficult to meet, for them or for myself. Time will tell. I am enthused about getting a small quality trailer, built like I want it. It will likely be my last chance to buy a new RV and I wanted quality and customization. This seems to be the ticket, based on what I have seen and experienced so far. I paid my money and I'm taking my chances. If I have difficulties, I will share them with the Forum. At this point my suggestion to customers is to be patient. My best suggestion to Oliver would be to put together a comprehensive list of the options and popular modifications available, along with features, advantages, benefits, disadvantages, weight issues, and costs. That would help minimize valuable employee time that is spent explaining stuff to customers, due to a lack of such ready information. Happy RVing to all.

Thanks bugeyedriver. That info is helpful. I am staying with the 20# cylinders to save weight. Actually I am going with these semi-clear composite cylinders, which are MUCH lighter, allow you to see the level of the propane in the bottle, and will NEVER rust: http://www.litecylinder.com/

I've been reading some of the older threads and noticed that the tongue weight of the Oliver was stated at 400 pounds. The information from Oliver says the tongue weight is 240 pounds. Can someone explain the discrepancy? Is it due to the extendable and retractable tongue on the Oliver? I am hoping to tow with my Toyota RAV4, V6, with factory tow package, and a 400 pound tongue weight is a bit much for that vehicle, IMO. I was wanting to keep the tongue weight below 300 pounds. Does anyone have any info about this issue?

Chris, what monitor are you going with for your Freedom 458? A Link 1000 perhaps? I looked up the unit and it looks like it would be ideal. They also have a 2000 watt model that is no larger or heavier than the 1500, but that might be overkill for a 2 battery bank. It would run a hair though. Will the unit you're getting fit under the rear seat of the side dinette, or do you have to install it in the space where the shore power auto rewind would have been located?

Chris, do you mind telling me which inverter/charger you are getting installed in your Oliver, where you bought it, and what it costs? IMO, the ProSine I have may be a bit of overkill, since it has a 100 Amp charger. However it is programable for any size battery bank and any type of battery. IMO, a 50 amp smart (preferable a 4 phase) charger would be all we need for a dual battery bank.

Would the Xantrex 2.0 ProSine Inverter/Charger (which I already have in my existing RV) work in the Oliver? If it would (is there enough room to install it near the battery bank). I could remove it from my 5th wheel and let Oliver install it in our new trailer. That would be sweet, and save me some money.

Happy forth of July to you folks. I wish my wife and I were there to enjoy the view and the company. We will go see this area after we pick up out trailer in late Sept.

Any advice regarding an Oliver, factory installed, on-board water filtration system? Perhaps a dual filter cartridge system from the RV Water Filter Store?

What are the height and width dimensions for the furnace plate? I am wondering if an Olympian Wave catalytic heater, which comes in three sizes, could be installed in place of the furnace. I have used a cat heater in my 5th wheel and love it. It is virtually 100% efficient and totally silent, whereas RV furnaces are very inefficient and noisy. When using a cat heater, a window and a vent have to be opened about an inch to provide for air circulation, but that has proven to be no problem in my 5th wheel. Any thoughts or comments? How do you Oliver owners like your furnace? Can you watch TV and listen to radio without raising the volume every time the furnace cycles on?

The Camping World catalog lists the Coleman Polar Cub at 8,300 btu, not 9,200. It list the amps at 8.0. I suppose one of those facts is false, but which one? Has the Coleman Polar Cub proved itself adequate for Texas heat in the Oliver?

CarolAnn, that option list was sent to me by Michelle at Oliver about a week or so ago. I have not yet settled on my options, as my trailer will not go into production for a few weeks, so as not to get the trailer until I wanted it (between September 15th and 30th). I will go to the factory in Tennessee and pick it up and head out on a trip of some sort, depending on the cost of gas at that time. My wife and I have to watch what we spend, so as not to out live our retirement savings. We also need to sell our existing tow vehicle and perhaps our 5th wheel as well. I shudder at the low price we will likely have to settle for when we sell. I get about 10mpg on diesel with my existing rig.

CarolAnn, I would think you could order a Classic and get what additional features you want, including the double pane windows, or anything else for that matter. However, my guess is that once you add a few options that you want on the Classic, you will reach a price that is very close to what the Elite costs, yet you will be short of several things that the Elite has that the Classic doesn't have. I think that is why so many folks opt for the Elite. It gives you more stuff for the buck than ordering a classic and adding on what else you may want. However, just add what options you want to the Classic, price out the options, and add them to the base price of the Classic and see how you come out. My guess is that you may come out spending less money, but getting less for the money you spend. I think they will build you a Classic with whatever options you desire, including the double pane windows. Here are the options and their prices: Options for “Oliver Travel Trailers” Aluminum Spare Wheel $120 Generator Quick Connect $719 Gas Line Quick Connect $252 Additional Female 12 Volt Outlet $48 Swivel Reading Lamps (ea) Position (choices) 1,2,3 $150 2000 Watt Inverters $659 Soap Dispenser (Kitchen) $66 Soap Dispenser (3 Way Shower) $71 Twin Bed Set Up $720 30 Pound LP Tanks and Regulators (price for 2 tanks and regulators) $119 Back Up Camera $840 Front Mural $234 Double Pane Thermal Windows (excludes Bathroom) $570 Thermastat for A/C $215 Solar Ready (no panel-outside connection) Call for pricing.

Awning fabrics are of two primary types: Vinyl coated, to shed rain AND sun, and polyester to block the sun but not the rain. The polyester allows hot air to rise up through the top of the awning (the fabric) and is noticeably cooler than the waterproof material, especially in the absence of a breeze. You mentioned a crank. Can you tell me if the awning can be cranked out and cranked back up, or does it have to be extended and retracted by unrolling and rolling it back up with your hands, like the awnings on pop-up trailers? If you use a crank, do you deploy the crank inside the trailer or outside the trailer? Do you have to use guy ropes, perhaps two per pole, to anchor your awning support poles, or are they self-supporting unless the wind is high?

Upon closer inspection of the photo, the V shape appears to be an illusion. I see, in the far left of the photo, another pole, making two poles supporting the awning. However, I still see what appears to be more unused polls back up by the trailer. Also, It looks as if there may be some type of fabric over the awning frame. Would this be water and air permeable polyester-type fabric or a waterproof vinyl fabric?

Wow! Thanks for posting that picture. I can't be sure, but it looks as if the awning is not a fabric type set up and that it is in the shape of a V. It looks as if the awning has structural sides. I can see some polls that have have not been deployed in that photo. Does the awning, when fully extended, form a square or rectangular shape? The awning in that picture does not appear to be fully extended. Am I right or wrong about that? Am I right or wrong about the V shape?

I haven't seen any photos of an Oliver with the awning out. Have I missed them?

Thanks for the comments folks. Maybe I should keep the awning if it's that easy and quick.

Hi, my name is Doug and my wife's name is Geneva. I just put a deposit on a new Oliver Elite. My wife does not know about it yet. I requested delivery during the last half of September. We live in Central Texas near Lexington (Highway 77) and have been RV'ers for about 20 years. We now have a 29 ft Arctic Fox fifth wheel that we can no longer afford to tow, so we use it as a guest cottage. We may decide to sell it and the TV, a 2002 Silverado big dually, Duramax, fully equipped to tow safetly. We are retired and like to RV about 2-4 months per year. Last year we went to the Northwest and took a cruise to Alaska, out of Seattle. With the price of diesel we will likely not use our 5th wheel and I decided to buy an Oliver, after learning about it's existence in Trailer Life. I should be able to pull the Oliver with my Toyota RAV4, V6, with factory tow package, rated to tow 3,500#. Once we get to where we are staying, we can use our Toyota to go see things and get almost 30MPG on the highway on regular gas. We will pick up our Oliver at the Factory and then take a trip up to the Northeast and New England in the Fall. I look forward to the good economy and the ease of set up on the Oliver. Anyone who has any advice for us, please feel free to share. We are open to any and all options.

Carol Ann, I see you are in Texas. So am I, and I just put a deposit on a new Oliver. I live near Lexington (highway 77) in Central Texas. I am in process of configuring my new trailer for delivery in the last half of September. Good luck with your RV decision.