Jump to content

Landrover

Member+
  • Posts

    591
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Posts posted by Landrover

  1. 9 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:

    I ran with 80 psi in the Dunlops that came with my trailer for the first year.  I’ve reduced that to 55 psi, I think it gives a smoother ride for the trailer and I haven’t noticed any increase in tire temperature or unusual wear.

    It’s OK to be a snob!  We all have snob issues, vehicle, wine, music, etc.  TV’s reflect, to some degree, the way we camp and travel.  Lots of Q7’s, Touaregs, LC200s, etc.  I have an Audi S3 that is pretty quick (0-60 in 4.5 secs), has the magnetic suspension and all the other speed and handling gizmos.  I tend to choose to drive my Rebel over the S3 more and more.  Maybe in my advancing age I’m coming to appreciate the comfort and “luxury” that new pickups provide.  Plus I can throw a bunch of camping gear under the tonneau cover.  I know it could do hay pretty well, too! 😆

    👍🏼 2500 HD Chevy duramax  diesel crew cab 4x4 Hoorah 

  2. Oliver sales dept. asked me to show my Oliver twice in the last month.  Because it has been very hot and humid in Florida 95dgs heat index at 105. I thought do I Show it in the heat or turn on the Ac. I decided I wasn’t hiding anything. Let the people hear the noise the ac makes and hope it wouldn’t be discouraging.  One hour before they arrived i turned on the Ac. I also opened up all the compartments bathroom and closet doors.  Just before they arrived i went in to close all the compartment doors, to my surprise it was at temp 73dgs the ac was still running but at a very quieter mode. Showing the interior the Ac decibel  level was low and we had a good conversation without being bothered by the ac noise.  I did explain first start up of the ac is quite loud. But it didn’t take much time to get it cooled down. Both showings I had positive results.  I think the key was getting all the heat out of the compartments and in between the hull. It gave the ac the ability to change the mode setting to a reasonable decibel level yet still maintained the cool temp.   I do agree with everyone the ac still could use some improvement.  And yes it is still to loud when trying to watch Tv.

    • Thanks 1
    • Like 1
  3. I also considered finding one of these units, until i started looking at the very different drivetrain and suspension  components that Gm put into it. They are one of a kind, which means parts availability would be limited Or impossible to find without high cost. It truly is a work of art for its time. But for repair costs, I’ll admire one at a RV rally some day. 

  4. 4 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

    I also do dishes outdoors, when I can. Heating water in a teakettle, I can limit water use to a quart or less for dishes, most days. Like you, two pans, and an IKEA drainer, that fits in the top of the black pan, that fits in the sink. White dishpan fits inside the black.  

     

     

    20200713_102305.jpg

    20200713_103039.jpg

    Now that’s a veteran RVer. 

    • Like 1
  5. 33 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

    The GMC was pretty splashy and often colorful. Check out the 70s green interior of the one in this article. http://www.bdub.net/publications/1973_Magazine_Ad/1973_Ad.htm

     

    And, here's a collection of brochures and specs for the various years in its relatively short life.

    http://www.bdub.net/publications/

     

     

    20200713_075612.jpg

    They have a you tube video on this unit, very interesting. It was one of the most advanced rvs of its time.

    • Like 2
  6. 1 hour ago, Overland said:

    Since I had to redo the caulking on this one window, I figured that I'd go ahead and do the rest.  Of course, like most of my projects, this one got delayed right after I got all of the old caulk cleaned off from everything.  Two interesting things have come up - one, on two windows, when I scraped off the caulk from the bottom of the frame, a good bit of trapped water leaked out.  Not just a few drips, but a steady stream for a good 30 seconds or so.  Secondly, we've had a few gully washers come through and since I haven't recaulked, I've expected both times to have to mop up water on the inside, but so far, nothing - not even a drip, even between the hulls.

    Soooo...I'm wondering if caulking the windows is a belt and suspenders situation, since the windows also seem to have a black bituthene type sealant between the frame and the fiberglass.  And if so, might the caulk actually potentially cause problems, holding water that gets trapped from clogged weep holes - at least that's the only place I can figure the trapped water came from.  I don't really know how these windows are put together though, so I can't tell for sure.

    Thoughts?  

    Another question, while pondering that - I'm wondering the same about the caulk around both the water heater and furnace.  There's no reference in the manuals about caulking these on installation, and with the truma, at least, the door itself provides ample opportunity for water to get in, so caulking the frame doesn't seem to do much.  Can't tell with the furnace.  So again, I'm wondering if the caulk is really necessary.  

    Overland 

    maybe if you Decide to re caulk the widow skip a space or two at the bottom then see if you still get water from the window frame.

    • Like 1
  7. Interesting my unit made the same popping noise once in a while. I believe it coming from the ac unit or the fiberglass around the AC  We had some very hot humid days  once the interior gets cooled down you can still feel the heat between the hull.  I think the popping came when the sun was setting and the hull cooled. Ill pay more attention next time to try to narrow it down,

  8. I did this simple mod Access port only for the grey valve to keep open while parked instead of having the entire basement door open.  I thought of a small access door for both valves. So far this set up is working great.  Sorry i deleted the photos from my phone. I believe they are still posted under mods. Somewhere?

  9. 1 hour ago, Overland said:

    I'm not surprised at the price.  FWIW, that's about $500 more than what my system would have cost had I opted for the standard solar setup, which was three years ago, and I did all the work.  I think my Victron kit is better; but as far as features go, Oliver's offering seems about on par, so it seems like a fair enough price.

    Before anyone flips about the $9000 price tag, you have to compare the cost relative to what you'd otherwise pay Oliver for the AGM upgrade, solar, and inverter - and I might argue also another $1500+ for a generator, gen connection, and accessories.  For me at the time, the difference in cost was only ~$2000, which after tax rebates ended up just shy of $1000.  I'm curious what that calculation would be now.

    With that much LFP storage, Oliver's solar offering is anaemic, which is why I only say you might be able to live without a generator.  With 200w of portable panels, then I'd say yes.

    And yes, 5 hours of AC use is a fairy tale.

     

     

    I think I’ll keep my dual fuel 3500 watt generator @ $1000,00 and add to that I had my generator for over 3years still like new. So i guess i can buy new every three years for the next 27 years to catch up to that cost. 

  10. 5 hours ago, ShallowGal said:

    Just mentioned this post to Duke & the fact that I've never spent any time there & his response was, "you'd love it, there are all kinds of breweries there." 🤔

    If you like  breweries and wineries look into harvest host membership.  Went to a moonshine distillery and was glad we stayed over night. The moon shine taste testing had me sleep Very good that night.🤪

    • Thanks 1
    • Like 1
  11. 2 hours ago, Patriot said:

    We picked up two of these commercial grade extension poles at Lowe’s to assist in draping the Calmark Cover over our Ollie when it comes time to store it. Our intention is start from the front using the poles to lift the cover with one person on each side of the Ollie walking back and slowly draping the cover as we go. I purchased a cheap pack of tennis balls at Wally World to protect the cover from the threaded ends of the extension poles. This is just an idea or lets say a work in progress. The poles extend up to 8’ and are very rigid. We will only need to extend the poles 3’ to clear the 9’7” top of the AC.  So we’ll post up our thoughts on how this idea works when we give this a try at some point in the future.

     

     

    EC83F0A6-2137-44EF-8276-552CA11CBBAE.jpeg

    Patriot  Hope these poles work well for the cover, if not you can always use them for your awning prop rods.

    • Like 2
  12. 33 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:

    Our microwave runs off the inverter.  I think all 110 outlets go through the inverter.  I haven’t tried them all, but I think that’s the case.

    On the 2019 all outlets work off the inverter even the outside outlet.  I wanted to see if a portable 110 air compressor worked off the outlet using the inverter. It worked great filled all the tires and used minimal battery usage.

    • Like 2
  13. 8 hours ago, Susan Huff said:

    I was thinking the same, about the black breaking up the all white interior.  Fingerprints might show, but do they wipe off easily?  The light glow around the edge of the door would alert you that the lights are on.  We put stick on (I know, that's tacky!) individual LED tough lights in all of the cupboards of our RV (no hard wired lights except in the wardrobes), but they are a pain to have to replace the batteries and remove them when the RV is not used for a long period of time.

    Questions:

    Where is the switch for the cabinet doors?  By chance, does the light come on when you open the door automatically even when the switch is off?

    I am considering the additional cupboard, in place of the microwave.  We have a Breville Mini Smart oven that we would carry in that space.  Does the cabinet come with an interior light as do the upper cabinets?

    I appreciate the pictures.  I am saving these, and others, in a file for reference for decision making down the line.

    The light switch for the cabinets  is in the panel located above the bed area it has a blue light in the switch when on. Not sure if Oliver puts in a light if you have a cabinet in replace of the microwave, I’m sure they can install one. I don’t think you’ll need stick up lights anywhere. There are so many lights in the Oliver its hard to keep track of them all.

    • Like 1
  14. Awhile back there was some discussion about the rhino 21gal waste tote. Any likes or dislikes? Doing some crude math 8lbs per gal of water x 21gal + poo 168+ lbs full. Definitely not putting it in the truck bed even with wheels heavy to haul by hand over ruff roads, I’m not sure how towing it over ruff areas will work?  The  dometic toilet in the Oliver works well but is small  can’t do much thinking on it.  🤔 I have some reserves about the compositing toilet fan running exhausting to the outside adding compost stuff etc.  I took an overnight trip and used a portable toilet only three gals cap. It sat in the shower stall, it worked great  except no privacy with the door open, but i was alone so no big deal.  My thought was to replace the OEM toilet with a self contained 5 gal  Close off the opening only to be able to put back to  orig if needed.  Having the portable would also create more area for showering if removed.  There are a many different styles and shapes to choose from and most are inexpensive. The one I  have now was from Sears 25 yrs ago and still works great. Thoughts? Thanks

  15. On 5/27/2020 at 7:57 PM, ahattar said:

    Final update:  Oliver is stepping up to make things right so we can all move on.  We're all disappointed but its for the best at this point.  Take care.    

    I would appreciate your final out come on the matter. I have followed your posts and agree with you. I shared similar issues and posts. Some may not like the bad press on the forum, but i think it is important. We are all Oliver owners this forum should be for the good bad and sometimes ugly.  If pressure isn’t put on the company by these issues. Then no change will be accomplished. Thank you.

    • Like 1
  16. 1 hour ago, NatalieRoberts said:

    Believe it or not, most AC RV noise is caused by clogged, worn out or damaged components. Therefore, you need to do regular maintenance on your RV AC especially if it’s an older model. Or  inspect the fan motor. Did you know that your fan motor could be the reason why you can enjoy a peaceful night’s sleep in your RV? The fan motor for older or highly used AC can create loud noises. 

    There are some videos out that also show that air flow Restrictions causes some of the noise in the ac unit.

×
×
  • Create New...