theOrca

This is my post last on this subject. It seems unreasonable to believe that the name and location an auto parts store on a medium sized island in Puget Sound is going to be helpful to anyone else this list. It does seem reasonable to believe that you are demanding "show me." I decline.

jd, I do not mind strongly held opinions most of us have some. I do somewhat object to passive aggressive behavior towards those who differ with YOUR opinions.

NOT special order. I just walked in bought a Set 49 and walked out. The package passed the "fake" check...

That also lets you actually use the last 7 gallons of fresh water...

For the Neverlube - one axle end equals one bearing... See the Timken info above.

For those who have never used "Grok," I have provided a sample below. The thing I find so wonderful about Grok is the ability to ask a common language question about a hard to understand subject and get an answer you can use. If something confuses you, you simply type a followup on the same form saying something like: "Please explain XYZ more, I am not getting it. Grok then continues. The below screen shot is what Grok gave me when I asked it to give me the exact match of Timken bearing to the Dexter Neverlube bearing (serial number from my D52 build sheet. Have fun.

Nevermind. I found the answer about two pages before this one:

Can someone explain to me (with pictures and drawings if needed) how the Neverlube bearing system works. Being more of a tekkie and less of a motorhead, I have understood that axle bearings are - 1 an Inner race, and 2, an outer race on a common shaft. with shoulder bracing against inner movement of the inner race, and a nut preventing outer movement of the outer race. Someone recently posted on this forum that the Timken Set 49 was a direct replacement for the Neverlube. Price difference being "¼ of" with Timken being the cheapest for once. I have looked at the Timken Set 49, and it is ONE outer bearing sleeve with two inner races. Maybe 2" long. I cannot begin to guess how that works. Please help the mentally challanged.

$3,239, Ouch ! Getting the Alcan stuff on order was easy. Not so much the D52 axles. Lew won't drop ship axles anymore since FedEx damaged that one set. I do not blame him at all, I would not either. Problem was that Washington State does NOT have a Dexter Branch, only Dexter distributors who seem to want to order the axles themselves rather than be shipping forwarders. Got back to Lew. He is going to have Dexter ship the axles to the Wilsonville, Oregon Dexter branch and I am going to have Oak Harbor Freight lines pick them up and deliver them to my installer in Mount Vernon, WA. About $375... Heck I would pay $300 just to not have to drive through Seattle traffic (twice). Now we wait for Dexter.

The idea was great, but the implementation by the suits of Howenwald leaves a lot to be desired. I had work done at the Salem, Oregon "Oliver Dealer." they eventually did a good job, but I did have to do TWO round trips between Salem and Whidbey Island, Washington to get it done right. They stood behind their work, and all ended well (But TWO trips through Seattle traffic!) Turns out that NO ONE from their service department had been to Howenwald for training, nor had anyone from Howenwald been to Salem. Qualified for Oliver service? I think not.

I have tried to run through all xxx-hundred posts on this subject at least twice. I still cannot find reference to the actual Dexter part number of the correct D52 axle for my E2. My Olly (615) unfortunately has the old 3500 axles and cheap CCP springs. I intend to have the work done locally. I have ordered the correct ez-flex and shoulder bolts from e-trailer, will order the 5 leaf springs and U-bolts from Alcan. I want to have the local shop order the correct complete axle assemblies directly from Dexter. Would someone please chime-in with the correct part number for the Dexter Axle? Pretty please with a shot of single malt... Bill

I hesitate to even jump in on this topic, but would like some constructive opinions. I have a ½ ton Dodge truck with ¾ ton springs and 100 PSI airbags. I have never used the Anderson WDH items since right after the first 1,000 trailer miles. I do like the Anderson Bulldog connection system as I can massively lock the trailer onto the truck ball. I am still using the Anderson ball assembly as I saw no reason to change to a different system. The Olly is uber stable. I have done some more than a little crazy lane changes at speed to avoid accidents. They went well, with probably a 20 degree initial trailer sway with instant recovery. Am is missing something here? (BTW, those lane changes involved a full half turn of the steering wheel in each direction. NO brakes.)

Great question. Such focus on weight alone makes NO allowance for the quality of the steel nor the quality of the heat tempering.

I would rather have a great product with no warranty than a fair product with a great warranty. The time and PITA factor in obtaining warranty work/recompense is ..., well, a PITA.

theOrca

After 5 years of use ( with little to no attention given to windows), I finally had an interior window leak this year during Elk season camping. Drivers side bunk. In the last 45 days I have stripped out and discarded all of the white window seals. I cleaned all the junk out of the inside and outside tracks and installed the black replacement seals. None of the exterior weep holes were plugged, but were reduced in capacity by junk. Since I normally camp with the front end of the trailer a "half bubble" high, I also drilled a new drain hole on the aft end of all three of the big windows. At the point where the frame begins to tip upward, I drilled a #26 hole so that any water running to the rear of the window has a nice big hole to exit from. It was an easy project. Just out of curiosity, has anyone refitted the old style Olly windows with the new tip-out models? Does anyone know if the new windows are a straight up replacement or did Oliver have to redo their hull molds?

Never Mind !!! I found it by searching dozens of descriptors. It actually referenced a post on our forum.

Does anyone have a company or part number for the subject track seal? It is no longer used in the new Ollivers, but I need to replace at least two windows worth in my rig (Hull 615). Thanks for looking... Bill aka, MIng the Merciless

Did they tell you the brand and model number of the replacement? My Norcold is now at an RV dealer to see if the fridge can be repaired. I know that there is a good Nova Kool compressor fridge that will fit, but would like to know of any other options. Absorption fridges are the gerbils of the RV equipment world...

With the vital assistance of "Rangered," I have to throw the red flag on Dometic's claim that the 13.5K and 15K versions of the FreshJet3 draw the same amperage. At max draw, my 15K unit draws 18 amps. "Rangered" measured his 13.5K version as only drawing 15 amps at max load. Sometimes I really wonder about the nuttiness of factory claims for their equipment. It is as if their engineers and sales folks don't even know each other exist... Doh!

This subject is of great interest to me as I am located in in Western Washington State. Hohenwald is a l-o-n-g way from me, and I am having some issues with a recent swap of the Penguin to FreshJet3 A/C's. For those who have an interest, Bretz RV in Liberty Lake, Washington still does not have a functional service department. Their Missoula, MT location does have a service department, but it has NO ONE there who has been trained by Oliver (on site or back at Hohenwald). Due to distance, I decided not to call Bretz at Nampa/Boise, ID. The whole concept of "distributed Oliver sales and service" will eventually depend on Oliver owners having confidence in the ability of their local "Joe's RV" not only being able to sell them an Oliver, but also be qualified to maintain it. (For a $110K trailer, that confidence will make or break a sales decision.) At this point, those of us in Washington State are seeing little reason to be confident of any of that.

If you want real "sticker shock," price Anchor wiring at West Marine! To give due credit though, Anchor wire has at least 3 times the number of tinned strands of any other brand of wire of equal size. There is just no good substitute for Anchor wire if making battery terminals, but the moaning of your checkbook can be off-putting.

Reports that Dometic claims that the FreshJet 3, 15K and 13.5K units draw the same number of Watts/Amps has lighted my BS warning lamp. I respectfully request that someone with a FreshJet3, 13.5 K unit actually measure the running amps of their A/C on low, medium and Turbo, and publish same on this forum. An easy way to do that is to use the handy dandy monitor located in the rear cubby of the Legacy Elite II. Please pick a time when your batteries are fully charged, and just before testing that the monitor shows 1 amp or less of current draw. It does not matter if you are on shore power or on generator power. Please mention ambient temperature during the test. With the 15K version of subject A/C, I measured 13 amps on low, 15 to 16 amps on medium and 18+ amps on high (Turbo). Many thanks to all who can respond. Signed, The puzzled Orca!

ADB is the "air distribution box" on the inside side of the roof. My install dealer and I are still working out the ramifications of they having installed a 15K BTU FreshJet3 instead of my requested 13.5K BTU version. There is now some question as to my Honda 2200 being able to run the 13.5 version. I can attest to the fact that it is NOT able to run the 15K version. 😒 Measured data 15K Dometic FreshJet 3 (with the Dometic Easy Start) and a Honda 2200 gen: Sea level, 73F. Low setting on the A/C - 13 amps. Generator runs fine Medium setting on the A/C - 15 to 16 amps, gen running hard, evidently right at it's max wattage output. High or Turbo setting on the A/C - 18 to 19 amps - Gen shuts down immediately due to overload. I am having difficulty getting my mind around the fact that Dometic claims that the amperage draw of the 13.5K unit and the 15K unit are the same. If they are the same, then why is one de-rated to 13.5K? in my mind, BTU = energy = watts = amps.... 🤯

Your input caused me to pull the trigger on a Fresh Jet 3. I am having mine installed at Highway Trailer Sales in Salem, Oregon next week. Everything is in their hands except for the needed extra roof seal that lets the condensate drains flow through the Olly drain. Despite it appearing in a Dometic advertisement, they have NOT produced a Fresh Jet 3 "non manual" ADB. I think their universal ADB woulld be a bad idea since it was not designed specifically for the Fresh Jet 3. I would have liked to have had a non-manual ADB so that I could use the Olly thermostat. I went with the ADB with manual controls. I guess I can always change out the ADB if Dometic ever gets around to actually producing a Non-manual Fresh Jet 3 version. I will post again after the install...