Jump to content

NCeagle

Members
  • Content Count

    93
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

NCeagle last won the day on September 17

NCeagle had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

108 Excellent

My Info

  • Gender or Couple
    Couple

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Year
    2020
  • Make
    Oliver
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan
  • Hull #
    688

Recent Profile Visitors

255 profile views
  1. John, I'm no expert on solar either - still learning - but I have a totally different understanding of MPPT vs PWM than you have arrived at. If hooking solar panels in series was the only way to take advantage of MPPT controllers, then very few would be using them. I am seriously considering a MPPT controller WITH my parallel solar panels to get 10-30% more energy out of each panel. They are especially good in the winter, when solar panels produce even more voltage (due to efficiency at cooler temps). Here's my interpretation of what I've read/learned... Single/Parallel panel exa
  2. Not sure about all the variations shown on Amazon, but Reflectix has a bunch of different kinds - one sided aluminum, two sided aluminum, bigger bubbles, etc. This particular one looks like it's 2x thicker than what Oliver installed on my 2020 and it's 2 sided whereas Oliver used 1 sided. I really bought it a while ago to insulate my truck windows when sleeping in the truck like you said. Don't remember how I landed on this particular version of reflectix. Just using what I have left and will likely get more of the same since it's working. I'm using a little bit of contact cement to attac
  3. I was inspecting things in my basement and I noticed a large tear in the flexible aluminum duct that Oliver uses. It's the really thin, flimsy stuff and rips super easy. I pulled it out to repair it and found another near where it connects into the furnace. Now I'm wondering how many other rips and holes I have in them. What a bummer. Anyone tried semi-rigid duct or something a little more robust? Not sure how to get to the ducting under the sink and subsequently to the bathroom, but at least I could upgrade all around the access doors where things are more likely to get ripped.
  4. Hi Jairon, these are factory installed Lithiums. Just picked up on the 18th this month. As far as insulating, I'd recommend just buying a roll of Reflectix BP48010 Double Pack Insulation, 48 in. x 10 ft. It's twice as thick as what Oliver uses and I've already added an additional layer of this Reflectix on top of what Oliver installed on the basement door, so in essence I tripled the insulation - I removed the factory piece of reflectix and used it as a template. I'm doing that where ever I can reach on the outer hull in the basements too.
  5. Hi Fritz, I use SensorPush Wireless Thermometer/Hygrometer for iPhone/Android - Humidity & Temperature Smart Sensor with Alerts. Developed and Supported in The USA. Have used them for years in many other applications. Love them. They can be calibrated if needed and if you have a wifi hotspot in your Ollie, for example, you can monitor them remotely as well. I'm using velcro to secure them in different places around the inside of the Oliver. I put one outside when camping or when parked in my RV garage, but they are not waterproof, so you can put it anywhere it's protected from rain, b
  6. I've sent a request to my sales rep for the model and part number. Will let you know as soon as I hear back.
  7. That gives me another idea... rerouting that vent might also be a GREAT way to heat that troublesome street - side basement at the same time! I've been thinking of a good way to do that and it involves cutting holes for new vents with PC fans sucking warm air from the cabin. I just really wish the Dometic had a "fan only" mode so I could use electric heat in the cabin and move that around if running low on propane.
  8. Remember those Christmas tree lights that were hooked in series? When one went out the whole string was dead. Same for solar panels I thought? What can an MPPT charge controller do when there's no current coming in at all? I am probably missing something simple.
  9. John, they are using a 12V heating mat of some sort. You may want to consider 12V instead of inverted 120V. I can see it is directly hooked to the battery terminals and the switch is sitting on top of the batteries. I don't know what brand but I can ask my sales guy tomorrow for you (I'd have to take the batteries out to see the mat). I'd like to know the brand anyhow. I know the mat has a thermostat, so on cold camping adventures, I'd likely just switch it on and leave it on for the duration. I prefer this over the automated version even though it's something additional to remember when
  10. Thanks for sharing this information on your various temps. I also have 5 temperature probes and have noticed the big temperature differentials between the curb side basement where the vent / heat are located and the street side which has nothing and therefore colder temps. I tried leaving a top partially off on that are to see if any air would be sucked in when the ducted heat was running but that didn't happen. So I've been thinking about this too and I was leaning towards putting 2 small vents under the dinette seat and street side bed with some DC fans (like computer fans) to pull ai
  11. I'm claiming the credit for the new Solar package on the Oliver as well as a solar suitcase and an additional solar panel on the roof. I've added panels over the years to my house and always claimed those additions without any problem. I'm not sure about upgrading/replacing components though.
  12. I'm planning on using the supplied feet, which are the quick release mounts that you shared the link for. These definitely cannot be tilted like the bigger, 170 Watt panels that come with the solar package. I also have a suitcase, but would prefer to get the most out of my rooftop and use the suitcase as a supplement when needed. I'd appreciate some thoughts on the following... I noticed while placing the panel up on the roof that the mounts were just about flush with the mounts that are already there. I could easily use that same mount for this new panel on the trailing edge - with
  13. Hi Mike, I agree that an MMPT charge controller is the way to go - especially as panels / solar capacity is added. This is a quick and inexpensive upgrade (except for the $500 price tag on the panel - but if you take the 26% tax credit into account, the price comes down to $370). Further upgrades would involve the "long" panels some have already installed. The Obsidian 90 Watt long panels are a bit wider than the predecessor at just over 14", so I'm not yet sure if they would fit, but I definitely prefer the lighter weights since they are way above the center of gravity. If they do, next y
  14. Here's a picture of a partially installed Zamp Obsidian 100 Watt panel on the front part of the roof. This super simple addition doesn't require any changes to the standard Zamp 30 Amp charge controller or access port on the roof (there are only 2 of 3 ports used). Anything additional will require an upgrade to a 50 or 60 Amp charge controller. There's still a decent federal rebate for solar this year. Before anyone goes crazy, I haven't finished mounting this yet. I've got a question in to Jason about using some sort of stainless screws in addition to the VHB and then I'll seal it up
×
×
  • Create New...