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NCeagle

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NCeagle last won the day on March 30

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    Couple

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Year
    2020
  • Make
    Oliver
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan
  • Hull #
    688

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  1. I suspect John has hit the nail on the head with the Charger current being set at 150 amps when the 1600 W the generator is running at is only able to support 133.33 amps (at 12V) theoretically. Given losses, I would predict that you can still use the 1600 Watts at 120V (13 amps) to charge your batteries at 100 amps (12V) without issue. I charge my pair of 200ah lithiums all the time at 40 amps (12V) because I have the time and I can - that fills my batteries at about 10% per hour. I'm not positive what John means by stating 13 amps (at 120 Volts) is marginal for lithium - I guess it's marginal if you only have a limited amount of time and 100 amps per hour is going to take too long - otherwise from my understanding you can charge lithium as slowly as you want - in fact, it's better for the ions / longevity if you charge at a lower amperage.
  2. @2008RN, the smart bilge fan I used is 120V. I just tapped into the 120V wire feeding the outlet under the forward dinette seat. I know the heating tape works very well while on the road although as I stated in another post recently, I don't consider myself an expert just yet as I still haven't towed in severe cold - only 25F for relatively short distances. I'm not sure about the truma as I have the standard water heater. I just make sure the water is hot before taking off on a cold drive. I also haven't had any problems driving with propane running the furnace, refrigerator and hot water heater.
  3. We have used our Houghton extensively this summer in the hot NC climate as well as on several camping trips. First, I run our Houghton off of the Lithium batteries (as Minnesota Oli mentioned above) all the time. I also run it off of a small 2400W generator with no issues - and no Soft Start. I have very little experience with the original Demonic AC that came with the Ollie because after trying unsuccessfully to run the AC and sleep (or think or talk for that matter), the Houghton was virtually my first (and in hindsight still the best) upgrade / mod. I talked to Houghton a while back about the cycling and they said it is working as designed (4 minute cycles when close to the set temp). I have the proprietary formula they use and they asked me not to share it publicly, but if anyone wants it PM me and I'll find it. I typically put the AC on 60F and it cools quicker without the cycling. Then when it's close to the temp I want I back it off and let it maintain with the cycles. The dehumidifier works amazingly well too. Actually, both the AC or the dehumidifier set low (like 60F) take out tons of water very quickly. Water does run off of the roof with the Houghton, so I just used some EZ gutters to divert the water to the back - rather than running down the sides and/or and getting into the window tracks, etc. It has a heat pump that I haven't used yet, and I'll likely stick with the gas furnace for heat and only use the Houghton heat as a backup. So far I give the Houghton a 10 out of 10 when compared to the competition.
  4. Yes, I am the culprit who accidently discovered the alternative use for switch #26. I discovered it when I read another thread about a new owner (can't remember who) was having trouble with his Xantrex charger not working shortly after delivery. Working with OTT Service, the problem ended up being that switch #26 was set to "auto on" rather than "off" and it was preventing the charger from charging the batteries since it was looking for an ignition signal (and would never get one from the Ollie obviously). I was honestly less than 24 hours from cutting a hole under the pantry to get easier access to that cutoff switch before the lightbulb went off that I could use that same software switch that caused the problem for the other owner. 🙂 A DC to DC charger won't change anything if it's an "independent" charger that doesn't go through or depend on the Xantrex in any way. There may be a slick way of hooking the TV ignition or DC to DC charger up so that it leverages the Xantrex - and then switch #26 could actually be used as intended. Cheers! John
  5. Hi Donna and Scott, unless you have made some modifications to your heating capabilities in the basement (specifically, getting some ducted heat to the areas at risk of freezing) and are willing to run your furnace while driving (at least while driving in below freezing temps), I'd suggest just winterizing your water lines with antifreeze. I did a little bit of successful towing in freezing temps this winter with water in the lines and my heat running, but nothing below 25F, so I really can't say for certain what the limits are even for my modified trailer. I also have a self-regulating heat strip on the city and fresh water check valves as many owners find those valves are prone to freezing and cracking and getting ducted warm air to those valves is not easy. Btw, I don't consider myself an expert in this area yet as I don't have any experience towing / camping in extreme cold - what I did have was lots of posts about what other owners have done to help get it ready for a 5th season - and I made modifications based on those posts. So far so good. Let us know if / what you try and your results - I know there are several owners who ski and are very interested in camping/skiing with an Ollie - including me! Best, John
  6. Hi @SeaDawg, yes it's a 100 Watt Obsidian Zamp panel that I added to the pair of 170 Watt ones that came with the trailer. That's all I could add for now without any upgrades to the Zamp controller (30 Amp). It fit great. 🙂 Here's a few more pictures of the panel fit and install: Prior to bolting and taping the panel on, I made sure it fit well: Then I bolted the trailing edge to the existing solar panel mounts and used VHB 3M tape on 4 additional mounts on the front edge. Probably overkill on the front - it hasn't budged over several thousand miles.
  7. Hi @Stranded, here are some pictures of how the 2020 panels are connected. First, there is a solid 90 degree angle bar on both the front and back of the panels connecting them together: Second, there are 4 bolts that go through the sides of the panel where they are butted up together (4 bolts total). I've included two pictures that show both sides. You can also see the underside of the angle bar in one of the pictures: All in all, pretty much bolted such that they are a single unit - which makes sense given that they are mounted as if they were a single panel. Hope this helps... I can take more pictures or measurements if you need. Best, John
  8. Our 2020 Oliver had a detector with a born on date of 2015, and it was giving numerous false alarms, so I opened a ticket and Jason sent me a new one that had a born on date of 2018, which he said is more in line with what it should be. So far so good with the new one.
  9. I think you are right to go with a 2" rise in your scenario. You want to be at 23.5" to the top of the receiver ball when loaded, so with your test you are at ~22" with 550 lbs of tongue weight. Better to be 1/2" higher in my opinion since 550 will be on the low end after you load your Ollie II. Most clock in around 600 lbs of tongue weight when loaded with camping gear according to lots of other threads. I was a bit low fully loaded, so rather than buy a hitch with more rise, I bought and installed a pair of these on my Silverado 2500: Air Lift 89275 Load Lifter 5000 Ultimate Plus. They allow me to level the truck and Ollie regardless of my tongue weight or TV load. Cheers, John
  10. Well, it's more than a few, so a large enough minority to just "write it off" IMHO. It's pretty tough to survive in business just keeping the vague "majority" happy, especially these days. One of the things I've learned reading this forum for well over a year now is that Oliver does pay attention to the owners. If there are a handful of owners seeing excessive fiberglass dust in their new trailer, then maybe the Oliver team will want to address it. It's not a tough thing to address unless you are unaware. 😉 I don't think any of the owners have said it's a problem per se, just a little bit of a bummer having to spend time cleaning up the dust right out of the showroom. I was one of the 2020 owners that had a lot of fiberglass dust in my Oliver when it was delivered, but I saw the dust along with some other minor things when we took delivery that I made a decision then and there to address myself rather than point them out and wait longer. Covid certainly played a huge role in that decision. When we picked up in mid-November, 2020, it was a ghost town in the Oliver sales office. It was even mentioned to us at the time that some of the Oliver staff were out sick with Covid and they were short handed. I know Covid was creating a lot of different challenges for every company out there. I think Oliver does an amazing job with the overall construction of the Ollie and didn't miss a beat in 2020 with regard to that. I get the sense from my own experience and what I've read in the forums that the attention to detail may have slipped a bit here and there in 2020. Again, it takes awareness before you can take action, so I'd bet Oliver would be happy to hear about easy things to fix like these.
  11. Hmmm? Did you even bother to read the rest of the post? Many of us that took delivery in 2020 had lots of fiberglass dust.
  12. GAP, curious whether the Xantrex techs that said it wasn't suggested gave any reasons (I'm assuming they know it works). The one's that said it doesn't work should actually get some hands on experience with the devices as opposed to thinking they understand everything just from manuals - IMHO of course! 😉 I've used this software switch (off is really on wrt the charger btw) literally dozens of times since I discovered it and it works every time without throwing any error codes. If I trip the breaker like I used to, I get the infamous Xantrex [20] lost communication error code - per design if you throw the breaker rather than a bug. So, I respectfully disagree with the Xantrex tech(s) that said it doesn't work. I think if it's bad for anything it's not the batteries - so I'd much rather replace the cheap Inverter than the Lithiums. I also appreciate the savings I'm getting avoiding rotator cuff surgery if I had to continuously reach under the bed for that breaker like I used to. 🙂
  13. @georgelewisray, there are two ignition control switches on the inverter. Switch #1 is for the entire inverter and switch #26 is for the charger portion only. So I don't mess with switch #1 and the inverter is always working. When I turn switch #26 to "auto on" the charger will be DISABLED (since there is no ignition circuit connected on the Ollie) and when I turn switch #26 to "off" the charger will be ENABLED. You will see this on the remote - when #26 is set to "off" the remote says it's charging the battery (e.g., "BLK" for bulk charging) and when #26 is set to "auto on" the remote says "NO" for the battery.
  14. Elite II #688 also has the Lithium package with the Xantrex XC Pro 3000. I also use #24 (Charger Current) and #28 (AC Breaker for Load Share) occasionally to match and manage power better as described above. However, setting #26 is the best thing since sliced bread! I use #26 (Charger Ignition Control) to manage my Lithium charging the most (by far). Since there is no ignition control in a travel trailer, this switch can be used to turn the charger "off" and "on" via the software while you are using the inverter functions. When we are on shore power I don't want the batteries always topped off at 100% (not good for Lithium longevity), so I turn the charger off by toggling #26 to prevent the charger from holding them at 100%. This switch is an arm-saver since you don't have to manually reach under the street side bed and trip (or reset) the breaker between the inverter and battery.
  15. Hi trekhard, I'd never consider reuse of the grey water in that manner. I simply keep the grey water in the black tank until the whole trailer is at the dump station and then you can open both valves (grey and black) to empty everything. Putting 15 gallons of grey water in the black tank gives us about 2 extra days without having to empty the tanks (which is a lot of work if your in the middle of your stay). Hope this makes sense.
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