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SNY SD UP

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My Info

  • Gender or Couple
    Couple
  • Location
    West Central North Dakota

My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Hull #
    665
  • Year
    2020
  • Make
    Oliver
  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan
  • What model is your other RV or Travel Trailer?
    none

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  1. when you go into PRINT, can you 'print to PDF', then it will ask for a file name?
  2. Yes, on the lower left Batt; Red Post Cap, but a "-" (negative) on Batt housing.
  3. We do not have the anti-freeze kit. probably should have it, based upon our location... Does the screen on the De-Cal tube just keep the De-Cal tabs in place and ensures the particles from there are smaller than the mesh. Does outside water pass thru it on the way to the WH? Or is the only filter for the WH, the one in-line at the water pump?
  4. As far as I am aware, there is only one "Filter" associated with the Truma AquaGo. It is the one that you would use to hold the Decalcification Tabs in the screen mesh tube, when doing that process. When not in De-Cal Mode, the wire mesh would catch "particulates" from your water source. Truma AquaGo Filter.pdf I am not aware of any other WH in-line filter unless someone has installed/added an in-line before & outside the unit itself. Bryan
  5. Between Ronbrink's (very doable) MOD & JD's recommended straps, I see a winter project that I soooooooooo want to complete before our 2024 Alaska Oli-venture. The plumbers strap that held (past tense) the WH has snapped. And I have what I believe is a great replacement for it and to add it to the Heater while I am at it. Thanks Ronbrink & John Davies, B~out
  6. Ronbrink - I had the same issue, and have thought about what it would take to get our rubber moved back between frame & belly. Some areas i was able to do it by hand, although i suspect my efforts would be negated by the forces (wash-boardy roads???) that caused it in the first place. other areas, i could not budge it without having to raise the hull from the frame. I too thought (and JD validated it) of the 2x6 (or 2x8 to dissipate/spread pressure) for (2) hydraulic jacks on the hull, but have not done so yet. It should only take maybe 1/8 - 3/16" upward movement to get enough room to reposition the rubber. I may go a 1/4" to floss out the dirt/dust and apply the "3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 4000 UV " between the frame and the rubber. I guess I should also open a ticket and add pictures. B~Out
  7. https://www.cnn.com/2023/12/08/health/rocky-mountain-spotted-fever/index.html I am guessing many of you are aware of this, and probably already do "Tick Patrol" when you return from hikes or at the end of the day. Do you also check your "Furies" when they come in and lay on the floor or bedding? Although this article references adventures down to Mexico, RMSF and "Lyme Disease" (a different bacterium) occurs within the boarders of the US. So far AK does not seem to have an issue with either at this time. (we were already planning to travel to AK 2024...) We have lots of opportunities to temporarily host "Ticks" up here in ND (where Lyme disease is more common than RMSF) even without getting beyond our yard. A family member did get a bite a few years back, we monitored the "Red Bite Ring" (never found the "bitter") and there did not appear to be any after effects from it. It just seems that some of the diseases and infections we are now subjected to, are more common but aggressive than they were 50-100 years ago. Yes, we have better medicines that can help if administered in time, but some of these illnesses are becoming resistant to some of the go-to medicines of the past. I am not trying to start a long thread of "war stories", but just a quick reminder to "Be Aware" and monitor, if you or your "Furies" do get the "Red Bite Ring"... Just like tire pressure and battery usage, another thing to be aware of, but not prevent us from going on our "Oli-ventures". B~Out,
  8. something like this? https://www.google.com/search?q=BMPRO+Tire+pressure+monitor+wrench&sca_esv=588609601&sxsrf=AM9HkKnK6s-LDdBLcJqWGBMpLE-Wi1-nSg%3A1701922188356&ei=jEVxZfagFbH-ptQP5P-JsAc&ved=0ahUKEwj2luObuvyCAxUxv4kEHeR_AnYQ4dUDCBA&oq=BMPRO+Tire+pressure+monitor+wrench&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiIkJNUFJPIFRpcmUgcHJlc3N1cmUgbW9uaXRvciB3cmVuY2gyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAFIwR1QAFgAcAB4AZABAJgBjAGgAYwBqgEDMC4xuAEMyAEA-AEC-AEB4gMEGAAgQYgGAQ&sclient=gws-wiz-serp
  9. You are correct, the curved ceiling makes it a bit more challenging. I know there are some "WOODWORKERS+OTT" owners on the forum, that may have some ideas on lift mechanism that might crossover from wood/MDF to an OTT plastic door. I am following this mod/thread, as I have thought of this for some time with regards to the attic cabinet door, so when open, it does not interfere with TV viewing. I want to be able to 'gently' lift & close, preferably auto-magically, but I guess manually would be the second choice. It might be as simple as using some double sided adhesive tape on "something like these" hooks to hold them in place, Clear (maybe there is a white) but functional. https://www.zoro.com/idesign-suction-hook-plastic-hook-clear-base-16600/i/G508348816/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&campaignid=19633513665&productid=G508348816&v=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsburBhCIARIsAExmsu77ScC7S6JEJPHqGA9qOdBxkgBzQvUXO3Gk3TQJsnrrGLxaH-wxnfMaAmaXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds The problem is "it's a hook" that you have to 'manually mate' up with the opening on the door latch. B~Out
  10. Me again. This may or may not work, but it will probably generate some additional topic traffic. First concern, he is going into a 'wood' door and 'we' are going into plastic. Next concern, would be what do you anchor the lower side of the piston to. Obviously the floor of the cabinet, but how solid is that to hold screws under tension. I can see the top bracket being attached to the same type of round threaded metal disk on the outside of the cabinet that the existing hinges attach to. Finally, would the working location of the piston or other 'spring loaded' scissors hinge' make it difficult to get large items in & out.
  11. Steve, And these are the important & pertinent comments by others on this forum that will fill-in for my lack of knowledge. Bryan
  12. Peggy, Are you looking at something like a spring loaded scissor piston hinge to lift the door, when unlatched? Bryan
  13. Peggy, You are correct, I just visited SNY SD UP, and there is no way to access the inside of the ceiling from the inside of the cabinet. And with the molded ceiling curve to cabinet, that does not allow for any type of a magnet to flush fit to the existing metal latch mechanism. Maybe just change the one you have removed, and work thru how you will create a way to keep it up while accessing the inside of the cabinet. Still ruminating on this.
  14. If you had access to the inside of the FG ceiling, you could attach a (STRONG) magnet inside that was aligned to the cabinet latch, and it would hold like magic. (I will now go out and look at 'SNY SD UP' to see if that ceiling area is accessible from the upper inside of the cabinet area) ruminating on this for a while. We did this to hold the bathroom mirror door open against the exterior of the front dinette cabinet. One magnet on the door the other aligned with one magnet on the inside of the access area under front dinette cushion. Bryan Remember with (2) magnets, if you want them to attract, make sure N-S are reversed, if you want them to repel align N-N... Don't ask me how I know. "Hey Bryan, the bathroom door is not holding like it should"...
  15. Peggy, Did you use to use razorblades to cut/remove the calking? I have found that these work well and they do not hurt the fiberglass. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TVM7W35?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Have you decided how to hold it up when open? I do not have a lot of experience, but I have a lot of ideas. I am seeing a chrome/stainless steel magnetic disk (aligned with the with front of metal latch) with adhesive on the back that would adhere to the fiberglass ceiling. So when you lift it up, it would catch to the magnet. Like with all magnets it would need to touch most if not all of the metal latch to hold well enough to not come crashing down on your head. I do not believe this would not be too b'ugly. Some of the marine-type (SeaDawg, Are your ears perking?) folks may chime in here with resources/experience. Bryan
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