SNY SD UP

One of the helps I 'found on this forum' with lineup & threading is to mark (small dot, or line) on both the base & cover to show where the threads begin to mate/match-up. The other is to open that hatch and wash out when you get home (if not when out and about). it seems to catch a lot of dust in the threads abrading them and make threading more difficult than it should be. B~Out

Craig, I really like what you have done here. I tried something similar (RVTW to GE Maps), and all I was able to show in GE Maps was 'straight-line' travel from stop-to-stop. I too had a discussion with RVTW and they were not interested in being accommodating or compatible with what it would take to more closely 'follow the road' as we travelled. The RVTW follows the roads in their software so why can they not export the same '.gpx' file with GPS Lat-Lon points to GE? It may be more data than they want to process for an export. i should find those replies, and send them to you to see how closely they match what you may have received form them. i.e. Copy paste a standard response. I have used the Garmin RV890 for a few years now; I believe I was able to get a '.gpx' file out of there either directly or by passing the RV890 export through Garmin’s Basecamp, then to GE Maps. I do not remember, but will fire it up in a week or two. As we plan for our 2025 outing, I will get back up to speed on this. I am going to meet with some people who are ‘GIS Professionals’, and see if it is some ‘Export’ option I need to set either in RVTW or the Garmin 890 or ‘Import’ option in GE, to see if I can get GE Maps to show the actual routing and not ‘Stop-to-Stop Straight-line’ routing. I really like the way you are documenting your routes. I am just not there yet. Are you able to show what your GE 'My Places Side Bar' looks like? Regards, Bryan

@Olive2Roam What tire pressure are you running?

@topgun2 Bill, I tried searching to see if this 'Fuel Keg' could be threaded into the my 2 burner (modern) Coleman stove. This is the tube I 'use to' connect to the 'Green bottles'. It is where I 'now connect to' a hose that adapts to a 20# tank. I hate wrestling with the 20# tanks, which is why I would be interested in connecting in this 'Fuel Keg' tank.

At the time i was thinking about applying RED Loctite, i did not fully understand of its properties. Yes, it requires some 'Heat' to break its bond. At the time, i was thinking, "hey this part of the stove element gets really hot, so maybe i should try RED...". That's what i get for thinking without knowing. I discussed using RED, for this application with the Dometic Engineer, his reply was 'Blue is all this application needs, that is why we now do it this way." I also believe that by specifying 'using Blue Loctite', it is a QC measure to make sure they have 2 screws per element, hopefully tightened down. B~Out,

That is the 'million dollar' question. When it was assembled at the Dometic factory did it have two screws on each element or one. That would be a Dometic QC question. I am not sure what happened with the Gliddenwoods stove, I was just posting that their issue looked similar to ours, and what our involved. By the time the burner caps became loose, and then fell off, I fount one screw in the drawer below, and one was in the remaining element. I searched all over for the other two screws. The heat shield below the stove, may have helped those screws find a really good hiding place. Kind of like where socks hide in the washer or dryer... This D21 assembly 'Process Change' to add blue Loctite to the screws tell me, this was a re-occurring problem, and this is how they chose to address it. And I am good with that.

These are metric screws that come up from underneath to hold down the burner cap. “the bolts used to secure the burner caps are common M3x24mm socket head screws. Most RV appliances are going to have metric (screw, nut, and bolt) fasteners, to be compatible with the non-USA market. If you are going to ream/drill-out thru the burner cap and put in bolts... I would stay small, less than say 1/8-3/16"... At that point I would probably go with a small 'round-not-slotted-head', a slotted head is just one more place for food to catch and be difficult to keep clean. My problem was, with all the shaking (Campbell Hwy, roads to Mayo, Keno & Tuk) on our AK trip 'on roads less travelled', the threads on the underside of the burner cap had pulled/stripped away. Also not thinking "hey, could they be metric not SAE". So I caused some issue by trying to fit SAE into Metric. My Very Bad!!! If you have the D21 (ours was installed in mid-2020) and you remove it, and do not see blue Loctite on the screws, at that point, I would get some 'Blue', loosen up the screws just a bit and add a drop of Blue, retighten, and call it Preventative Maintenance time well spent. I am not sure when Dometic started adding the Blue Loctite to those screws. it was done sometime between 2020 & their 2023 email reply. This is not thread-drift, but I believe the root cause for a lot of our appliance & trailer problems were Blown Shocks, which I did not check before heading 'Off-to-Alaska'. That said, after we replaced shocks & leaf-springs, "yah we broke some of them too". This years R/T to Alaska was rather uneventful with regards to 'shaky-trailer-syndrome...'. We did had an issue with the 'Highpoint Convection Microwave' coming loose from the front panel, but fixed it (interesting screw choice in there) and we were good. However, getting it re-seated in the very back took quite a while. Thanks to all for the comments and feed-back. Gawd I love this forum. B~Out,

Claudia, There a number of threads out there on this MOD. In one, Mike (and probably Carol helping) added their Drip rail, and as they were applying it, on a warm day, used some Blue Painters Tape to hold it in place, as they worked along. I will let Mike tell you why he used 'Tape'. The next day (Mike commanded the SUN GOD to change its axis, so the other side of the trailer would be in the SUN. While he was waiting, Carol re-oriented the trailer so the other working side was in the sun, and they could continue in this life-time. Thus avoiding a Galactic Calamity... "my words, not their actions") I believe they removed the tape the next day after each application, and did not have any issues with it. I do not remember which vendor of the 'Drip Rail' they used. It was a very informative thread, with lots of comments as to the experiences of others. Sorry to hear of your unfortunate experience, we are almost in the part of the year, that projects like this will have to wait until warmer days. Kind Regards, As the CAMPING Season transitions. Bryan

My most inconvenient time to discuss 'Our Oliver" is when I am dumping/flushing. I was derailed in thought once, with a subsequent issue... Now I just ask if they would mind waiting until after I complete the dumping/rinsing process, they usually do not stick around. B~Out,

My Pins are correct. Whilst on one of our many 'Shake-Down Runs', for lack of a real explanation as to how we shattered our bathroom door mirror. Gorilla Tape was our friend for the remainder of the trip. Later when it came time to remove the door, I opted to remove it by unscrewing the channel where it attaches to the rear facing dinette wall, so I did not remove at the 'pins'. Removal & installation was quite easy. This might be a way that would be easy for you to make repairs. IDK. B~OUT

@DonnaDuane Are you following this? If you removed your door, were you aware of the orientation of the pins?

Now I have to physically re-inspect ours... Maybe some maint is needed. I will report back, as I have a special circumstance associated with ours.

Yes, it appears so. Just added. It also appears in the pic's as though the Phillip's Head driver 'spun' in the screw head during the install...

Would you verify with Scott Oliver that what we are seeing on the 'Made in USA leaf springs' ref to 'The Beast' are in fact 5-leaf springs. It would be interesting to see if we could find a reference to the sourcing... Thnx B~Out

@Ronbrink do you have source info for those