Try2Relax
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Posts posted by Try2Relax
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I like that he's washing his wife's trailer. (I mean someone else is washing his wife's trailer)
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You are correct that there aren't any cot sheets that are any good, about 200 thread count. What I have found that works well is just using a king size sheet and tucking the fold into the wall, then only one sheet is needed. Of course, I only use flat sheets.
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That would surprise me, if Oliver used plywood anywhere, especially in a bathroom wall where moisture would be present, I would expect it to be the honeycomb layer they employ in other areas that require extra support, I hope.
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Good luck, have fun and safe travels.
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Steve, I am also glad to hear that everything will work out for you on this.While I understand and agree with your belief and faith in the Oliver company and people, I am saddened to see that someone felt it was necessary to remove the photo that had accompanied someone else's post. I understand the desire to defend and almost protect those that we close to, but doing so almost makes such an action look like a cover-up where there is someone to hide. All one needs to do is read the post about Goodyear tires on this very forum.The A frame area on an Oliver has two angle sections and the straight sections, the center of which is the tongue, which runs from the coupler to the main body frame, the other two straight sections are welded into the middleish area of the angle pieces. Judging by the single photo, that had been posted here, that appears to where your failure occurred, the outer steel plates were centered over this section and backer plates were used to completely encase the "V" junction where the straights are welded in. The reinforcements were done exceptionally well, after seeing some of your other creations for your trailer, I imagine your were very closely involved the actual creation of it.You'll notice that I seem to have payed pretty close attention to what could be gleaned from that one photo, before it was removed (I admit, I recognized what it represented and what would happen and saved a full resolution copy as soon as I saw it, for reference) for good reason.We purchased our 2015 used in the spring of 2016, never having owned a trailer before, I was all over it, around the same timeframe Buzzy purchased his trailer and was posting all his photos and videos, one of his photos caught my eye as being quite different than what I remembered from it trailer so I went out to compare, somewhere between hull 069 (ours) and Buzzy's trailer, the Oliver company decided that the welds on the earlier model must have been inadequate, the method on our trailer had been direct welds of the straight section to the angle, on Buzzy's trailer they had started to place corner braces into the angles and fully welded then in to strengthen the joints. When I crawled under the trailer and checked the differences, I noticed that the street side weld on the angle joint had in fact actually started to crack, while it had my attention I was not overly concerned, in my planned trip cross country I was already scheduled to stop at the factory, for a fiberglass repair. I mentioned the difference to them when I got there and they welded in after-the-fact bracing to match what was now being done. This can be seen in my XO photo mentioned in the off-road recovery post.While I understand your thinking, that with your trailer differences, that might be the cause, I would tend to disagree, what appear to be the failure point do not line up with either an extended tongue or what extra weight might cause, it is the center of a long section where everything is mainly supported by those long sections.While I do not normally subscribe to the the-sky-is-falling mentality, I do believe that Oliver should contact all known owners, that have trailers built before the reinforcements, to alert them to check the areas mentioned proactively, before someone, who doesn't have six pairs of eyes watching their trailer being maneuvered, has a catastrophic failure that would be a lot worse representation of company.Hopefully, this post survives too.
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How much of a concentrated load could there be, they're only stabilize jacks
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To be clear, you hard mounted that lamp in front of your emergency egress?
On the other hand, it looks fantastic and incorporating that switch is great. You do really nice work and have a great eye for things.
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Yes, I saw Outlaw in service also, getting it’s frame replacement surgery. Was wondering if you were going to post about what happened – that looked like it could have been a real disaster. The breaks looked like textbook metal fatigue to me.
Looked at the picture before I read this, guess it answers my question about all the steel plating...
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That was the tank I installed a couple years ago, when I had my water pressure woes. My thinking was that I was looking for less cycling, so I went with more split. If I was in a house and running a continuous shower, then the pressure difference would be annoying, but with taking navy showers, it isn't as noticable with all the off and on. Back then I checked to see how long (time wise) I could get before cycling and learned to "feel" when it would start so that it would be during an off part of the shower when it would refill the tank. I never actually checked the drawdown spec.
At the kitchen sink, the pressure difference doesn't matter at all to me and I've never really noticed. Each of us being able to use the head in the middle of the night with having to run the pump was also part of the consideration, so just make sure the pump has run before shutting it off.
Where did you put it that it was so much trouble?
Edit- I see your maintaining this in two different threads. I didn't think Flotec made a 6 gallon horizontal tank, and they do make horizontal specific tanks, so mounting it in a horizontal configuration may adversely affect it's operation.
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Yup, you either think government is too big and everything is too regulated or it isn't.
In a less regulated world, where corporate litigation liability is moving to being very limited, so causing less need for self correction.
These situations are always so devastating for those involved.
Caveat Emptor and welcome to the world of Darwinism where you are required to arm yourself with the knowledge that you have no idea you don't even possess.
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Bill, thanks for the offer. I won't be at the rally as that is my busy time for work. The "crank" on these is not standard, the head is approx ½" long and ⅜" wide with straight sides and rounded ends, their handle is welded together with that custom socket head welded to the handle. I need to find a ratcheting crescent wrench thingy.
The new tongues are much taller, so they fit the mount better, I wouldn't feel as bad with just ⅛", whereas it supports the weight of the trailer I would have just put the bottom tight and left the gap at the top.
I don't mind lying on the ground when I deal with the handle, I only plan to use this for tight space positioning (it takes me forever to get it turned around in my driveway with the truck) and getting down there gives me the opportunity to keep an eye on things.
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That looks fantastic, nice job. Thanks for the info, I had never looked at FRANKE before, I have all Grohe fixtures in my house and we love the quality of their products. FRANKE Quantum line looks interesting too...
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The photos certainly look like they've improved it a lot over the last year they've been toying with it. The angles and perspective certainly make it "look" spacious. Thanks for the updated information on it, I wonder if this means they're actually going to release it now?
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I just received my Dills today, now I have to get them installed. I have no idea how long that will take though, now that I have no way to safely get the tires off the trailer.....
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The XO has been received and mostly installed. There is no room on the old frame, in the outside area, which was fine as I planned to install it out of the way anyways. This thing is seriously robust and will add some tongue weight. The only real drawback to this location is the extension crank handle won't work, the mechanism is smoooth enough working though that I can turn it with my fingers at this point, I will come up with something that will work with it though. The only adjustment I had to make was to move the propane tank mount about ¾" forward so it could rotate cleanly.
Now I'm just waiting for a piece of aluminum stock to come in to fill the gap between the frame and bolts. The unit has 3 or 4 different frame fits and the old frames are 3½" square which fell between two fits, this is clear in the last photo. The bolts it comes with are also too short, so I upgraded to class 10.9 and 210mm length with all metal lock nuts.
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We paid for this weBoost 4G-M upgrade and it lacks performance and is basically useless.. Why doesn’t Oliver go with the WeBoost Drive 4G-X RV, which is specifically for RV’s? It also is a much better product.
Having a 2015 I had to look at the manual to see what they offered back then to see which I had, turns out it's the 4G-M also, I've never had a problem with it and it has taken my 4G Verizon phone from no signal to 4 bars, obviously not in the middle of nowhere but where it could.
I wonder what the much better aspects of it are. Just looked at the site and the only real difference I see is that the "made for RVs" model is AC power only and the M is 6VDC. Specs, freqs, boost etc all seem to be the same.
GeO, have you used the X, what did you find the be improved on it?
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Yes, I'll be interested to read what you find on it. Which specifics are you going with? When I looked at the Dill site I didn't see an in wheel configuration for a trailer, only stems. All the in wheel stuff says works with oem systems, which sounds like they are made to work with nearby sensors, am I not understanding something correctly?
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I preferred Valley of the Gods, which is just down the street from Monument Valley. My profile boondocking photo was taken HERE
This spot is close/on to the road, but only two cars came by in the few days I was there, there are others that are completely away from the drive area.
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I do too. After someone on here mentioned it last year, with good reasoning, it made sense and it seems like an easy enough thing to do, to save a lot of potential trouble.
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On the other side of it, everyone was outraged that Volkswagen defeated the emissions, until they weren't anymore, when now it's been found almost all of them have done it. Does your vehicle have a Takata airbag, that was hidden, until it wasn't. Do you shop at Macy's, Home Depot, Target? All hidden breaches they didn't want to get out.
To kid yourself into thinking another manufacturer isn't hiding what they don't want to get out too, is just kidding yourself.
Any manufacturer that settles anything with an NDA is hiding something, the rest of us should know.
The fact that it was "court sealed" should be more alarming, they should be the last line of defense in the world of deeming something relevant to public safety.
I agree, slow down and stay safe.
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Wow, they really improved that since mine, my exterior cables are in regular split automotive wire wrap and the hole they pass through the shell is just filled with that orange foam stuff. Compression fittings would be nice.
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but am trying to do this the correct way and as safe as possible for myself and others that I share the road with. I know the truck has the power, but also am aware I’m pushing payload. I think the WDH is prudent, if not required.
Thoughts?
I think you may be underestimating your numbers slightly, my Outlander weighs over 900 lbs, those Mavericks are over 1300. The TruckBoss decks are really sweet, but it looks like you've got the 6.5' bed model, which weighs 450lbs.
The F250 has a maximum payload of 3450lbs before you drop the diesel in it and add the Lariat trim. Does your yellow door sticker really state you have over 3000lbs of payload left?
While you have the extra weight of that diesel on the front axle, I would, at a minimum, recommend the Andersen so that you can dial in as much balance in as possible. The FX4 package makes for a softer off road ride, but can be a hindrance when max towing.
Good luck, keep us posted.
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GJ- just copy the link and paste it as text, we can copy the address and go from there..
HOW TO: protect the gelcoat under the spare tire
in Ollie Modifications
Posted
John,
I wonder how much of this is self inflicted, whereas you travel with the cover removed and then a lot on the unbeaten path. I will definitely remove mine at some point, just to check on it, but can't imagine that it will look like yours.
But thanks for the tip on what to do if it does.