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Try2Relax

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Posts posted by Try2Relax

  1. The panels are made for the outdoors and can withstand quite a bit, there are many in sand wind storms, your cleaning show off will not scratch them to a point of concern. My concern is that the mount points are actually quite small and the extra weight over the coverage of the entire panel can add a lot to those points. There is micro cracking around them on my trailer (I forget what it's called)

     

    If leaving flat and level, I would clean them off if more than 4-6 inches. If you tilt one side up, I would think they'll clean themselves easy enough. The panels are dark so any sun on them will cause them to heat up, so even if you only clean what you can reach easily, the rest will melt faster.

     

    I haven't yet, but I'll clean off after today is finished. (They're flat)

  2. Randy can we access the Oliver rear lighted sign from the attic? You then run the power line to the outlet in the attic?

     

    Sorry about the delay.

     

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    I don't know if the newer trailers are still the same, the white plastic cover is plyable enough when warm, but can be pretty tough when cold.

  3. Not knowing what ASU was, I had to look it up (my reading). My understanding is that when it senses extra power (engine running) it runs at 75% to max charge the cooling plate (thermal mass) my question is, did you somehow rig it to recognize when the solar is in a bulk charge state to achieve it's designed purpose?

     

    They also mention recommending a 3 phase compressor, so obviously an AC environment powered by a nice big diesel engine on a boat..

     

    Do they make a recommendation anywhere in their literature about RV use, I ask because while boats roll a bit, I would not think they suffer from the same micro (and not) vibrations that a rolling vehicle would, so I would wonder about some dampening mounts for any circuitry.

  4. And can we buy install the SPOT GPS without returning to the plant ?

     

    Yes, it's about the size of a deck of cards. I keep mine in the rear Oliver light and plugged into USB, all accessible in the rear overhead, so no need to worry about battery changing

    • Thanks 2
  5. My only component issue was handled through Oliver, it was only the water pump but they said it was under manufacturer warranty so they sent me a new one and asked me to send the bad one to them to send back to the manufacturer.

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  6. I have the SPOT trace, it's plugged in to rear USB power and kept inside rear hull, it sends me a ping (text message) every night at 6pm, to let me know it's working and it's GPS coordinates. Last time I took it to Chicago it alerted my phone, of movement, before I was out of the driveway. Then little place markers all the way there. I've never tried to send the tracking to anyone else so I don't know how that worked.

     

    Looks like they are 50% off right now. LINK

    • Thanks 1
  7. MountainApple – I”m aware of at least one Elite II that has tank heaters and they were installed at the factory. The original owner was from South Carolina and did extensive winter job site camping in the North East. I know that this unit was sold about a year and a half ago, but, unfortunately, I do not remember to whom it was sold.  Bill

     

    Here is the original owners report on that trailer.

     

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    Cold weather performance has been excellent.  As you can see here, this is what a beautiful spring morning in PA looks like today:

     

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    Being the cheapskate that I am, I'd prefer not to gobble up my propane using the furnace if I can get away with it.  So I've been just running the overhead heat strip and my ceramic cube heater instead.   Luckily, I brought the cube heater to use in the space in between the hulls, as I thought that if I ran the overhead, that the floor would get cold.   Well, it didn't work out that way.  I just set the cube under the dinette and blow out down the hallway.

     

    Here you see the temps I'm getting on electric alone:

     

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    Sensor 1 is the outside temp.  #2 is in the bathroom.  #3 is the space between the hulls and #4 is the cabin temperature there by the door where the display is mounted.  Quite comfortable and not so cold under the floor.   If I run the gas furnace, then the intra-hull temp is generally around 10 degrees less than the cabin.

     

    So far, I've haven't noticed any sweating inside or condensation buildup in between the hulls

     

    ************************

     

    Full disclosure - this trailer has 12v tank heaters and 120v tank heaters, I've never used either. The trailer also has what Ron described as an artic package, this being an extra insulation package...

    • Thanks 3
  8. Randy, I purchased a larger accumulator like yours for an install in a larger trailer, but ended up selling the trailer before I completed the job. First thought was that it would no way fit, but maybe it can somewhere. Where exactly did you end up mounting the larger tank? I can’t tell from your picture. Brad

     

    The tank wasn't installed in that photo. I tucked it all the way forward in the water control area, it rests directly against the plywood wall of the drawers, so I screwed a tie down on either side and strap it in.

     

    I believe it would also fit in the rear access behind the furnace, the space is there but I'm not sure about getting it in there.

     

    These only have a single connection, so they are just a pressure bubble in the system, just like if you have a well system at home. I can get an entire shower 'Navy style" with one running off the pump to pressurize the system. The other nice thing to having a larger size is it stays pressurized so if you stop for lunch you can wash your hands and other things (like flush the toilet in the middle of the night) without having to run the pump and eat up battery life.

     

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    • Thanks 3
  9. On our first truck, I put a Leer cab high cap on, primarily because we already had a Honda 7000is (propane) generator and wanted the height and security for it to fit, along with bike and other stuff.

     

    With our new truck, the wife decided she wanted a lower profile look, so this one has a tonneau cover, while Reed says they all leak I've yet to see any water in the bed with this one (it's not inexpensive)

     

    So, the generator was downsized to a Honda 2000is (propane) and the bike gets broken down, everything else fits nicely. I will say with the cap, I would have to crawl in as the generator was secured in the front and using a bed slide wouldn't work as it was locked into the tie downs.

     

    But I actually find that I prefer the tonneau with it's ability to roll up to be able to reach over, the side, for things in the front or easily remove it for completely large cargo loads, not travel related.

     

    It's all about the choices and determinations of what your expected needs will be.

     

    Oh, on the 350 the hitch comes nowhere near the tailgate.

    • Thanks 1
  10. Sorry about that, correct I was referring to reducing the vibration/noise created from the pump.

     

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    as for the accumulator, I went down this road along time ago and after researching it, decided I didn't see the point in such a small model, measured out all the space and decided on one of these http://www.flotecpump.com/ResidentialProduct_fl_hw_tk_FP7105.aspx it nestles nicely in the spot right where the new tank feed should go I believe, so I will need to relocate it. When I installed it I placed a shutoff valve directly in front of it so it can be completely removed (winter) if necessary.

    • Thanks 1
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