Try2Relax
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Posts
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Posts posted by Try2Relax
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If you've clipped them to the underside of the table, for storage, won't you hit the clips, getting in and out, with your legs? Maybe my mental image of the setup is incorrect.
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No need to wait until May, your panels look like mine and I bought the following parts to make them tiltable. They live on the shelf in the closet until needed. Just cut the bar in half and drill some holes for adjustability. I have extra knobs if anyone needs them.
M-D Building Products 60731 3/4-Inch by 1/8-Inch by 48-Inch Flat Bar Mill https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1AOYI?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Kipp 06220-5A2 Black Thermoplastic/Stainless Steel Tapped through Hole without Cap Star Grip, 1/4-20" Internal Thread, Style D, Inch, 32 mm Diameter (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013I6UM2I?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Kipp 06220-4A21X30 Black Thermoplastic/Stainless Steel Star Grip, 1/4-20" External Thread, Style L, Inch, 32 mm Diameter, 30 mm Screw Length, Black Cap Color (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013I6Y7OM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
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Which is funny as it followed the images thread by Matt in the timeline.
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The guy I bought my Oliver from was selling in part for his next, made to order, purchase.
Very much like an Oliver order
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I'm sure Ray meant not offense to anyone here, he, like many here, has a particular way of conveying his thoughts. He is very active on the Airstream forum, which is why I invited him to join ours, when he was discussing Olivers over there. He has lead numerous "adventures" for Airstreamers during which it had been found that, while interested, many were lacking the basic skills needed for any remote adventure that went too far from hookups, which then affected the rest of those involved in the "adventure".
While there are more of us who purchased our trailer for this purpose, there are still plenty who haven't the experience or ability to travel those roads (or lack thereof) think of those that are for sale after 6 months ownership who want more space for "camping"
So him trying to evaluate/"qualify" someone to ensure he doesn't have to get out and show them how to lock their differential to get out of a rough spot is understandable. He isn't a paid tour guide, he's just trying to share the experience and knowledge with comparably skilled individuals.
I do find it humorous that the three most similarly styled posters on this forum, to Ray, are the ones that took offense to the invitation being posed as it was, I would think that once part the cover of the book they would be the ones to most enjoy the read.
For an example - airforums
Ray - PM buzzy with your post, I'm not sure if he is still fully active on here and know (from the past) if everything were to work out, his active adventure ability and the interest he showed before should be very receptive of the idea.
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Thank you John. I had not thought of the Toyota L.C. Pretty stout vehicle. Come to think of it, I have not ever seen one broken down on the highway. Geronimo John
Since 2005, the most Land Cruisers sold in a year is 3800, so seeing one broken down would be about as rare as seeing an Ollie in the wild. Which is interesting as it's sales numbers fall behind the Maserati Levante (not comparing vehicles, just numbers)
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Instead of the inside of the pantry door, use the outside and appeasing the "want to write on the trailer" thoughts.
https://www.amazon.com/Whiteboard-Supertech-Adhesive-Boards-Education/dp/B074PQTXYX
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Overland, you need to have a sticker cut to fit in that upper fridge vent cutout, like your logo or name plate or welcome or something... That's a good shape/space just waiting for something in it..
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..<span style=”line-height: 1.5;”>.</span> Us central Florida folk just don’t get to experience those arctic temps too often. It’s humbling realizing how much of a wimp I truly am.
Did you guys request that they put the safety chains on the front instead of the cables? Or is this another new factory mod? Yours does look much safer the way that they are hooked back in the A-frame. Here’s the style they did on ours – cables…
Reed The chains pictures on their trailer appear to be the Andersen system chains, the black cables in the front appear to be the safety chains. Which is interesting if so, as I thought they were supposed to cross under the tongue and thus support it, if it disconnects. The way they appear would greatly concern me, if there is any slack when connected, the trailer would completely nose dive, drive the tongue into the pavement all the while your tow vehicle is pulling at speed driving it in harder, surely surpassing the 10,000lb force rating and either ripping apart the rear of the TV, the cable, or the trailer. Maybe that's just overly hyped and it will only disconnect on a perfectly smooth flat road, it will glide to a stop and all will be well..
Edit: Upon further inspection I suppose the angles involved would not allow "driving" the tongue into the ground and it only being dragged on the high incline angle of the tongue front..
The 10,000lb safety chains wouldn't be a new mode, that was old school before hull 125 or so..
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But the 450 has a 100% duty cycle whereas the 400 can only be run for 20 minutes before it has to rest for 40 (33% duty cycle). Given the above which one would be better? I was leaning towards the 450 mostly due to the duty cycle.
This was exactly why I went with the 450, which is perfect for the inflation issues you mention.
When winterizing, you can do it to ways, open a faucet go back and squeeze the trigger to force the air, HIGH pressure blast, let go, quick little repressurize in the compressor to the trigger, this allows the remaining water to collect and then release again. Go around to each faucet and then do it again, just to be sure, as I don't use antifreeze.
The other way is that the water system can easily pressurize to at least 60psi, the pex will allow for over 120psi but the pump prefilter and some of the plastic threaded connectors can't handle that much, the trigger that came with the 450 has a pressure gauge and with a couple quick squeezes you can pressurize the system and then walk to the faucet and release. I will use this ability to check how well my system can hold pressure to know if I need to start searching for a leak somewhere, with the filter isolated out, it can now maintain 100psi with ease.
The 450 works well for me, it lives under the seat in the truck.
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John,
Here is an updated review, with video, from an Airstreamer, within the last few days. While my experience has definitely soured me to the product, yours may be totally different.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464/review-of-the-trailer-valet-xl-176428.html
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Wow, the TF130 is really affordable, can't wait to see how it comes out.
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Would your Trailer Valet have been secure with the optional jack brace? I looked closely at Mouse and there is a good probability that the brace bracket would fit. The frame interferes partially, so that there is not much of the main tube projecting. Did you use their coupler plate between ball and Bulldog? The videos emphasize that you must really crank down on the locking collar. I am curious about why it did not stay put. One would expect them to warn of this if any particular type of coupler were unsafe. I am glad you were not hurt, but can you please elaborate? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA
Jack brace - maybe, I did not try it so I would need to research it
Coupler plate - yup used that
Tight lock collar - yup, I was afraid they wouldn't accept the return because of how much it was damaged from being so tight
It was purchased as a convenience, because my driveway is a difficult maneuvere, but after that initial experience I was unwilling to attempt anything else with it.
There are plenty of airstream owners that use it and like, I haven't had anything other than the Oliver so I don't know what the differences are in other couplers and why they might be better. It could have just been my inexperience that caused my excessive concern, so you might be fine with it, just be thorough in your research first, etrailer says it works with a bulldog.
The same day I returned it I ordered the front hitch for the truck and haven't regretted it since, although that wouldn't work in your garage either.
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Another option…although human powered. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200512627_200512627
I'm guessing that the 1000lb rating is for the trailer and not the tongue, the nut holding the wheels on doesn't quite look beefy enough..
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I purchased the Trailer Valet XL, my driveway is asphalt, with a slight angle, 2-3°, shipping was free, return shipping was not, I drove 300 miles round-trip to return it the day after I received it. Perfectly flat, smooth concrete might work for you, but any resistance and, with the bulldog coupler, it just wanted to roll itself out from under the ball. I will never look at anything with balanced pivot point again. You LOL'd that floor jack, but it looks like it would actually work perfectly
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This makes finding the right one pretty much a requirement I think. Thanks for the push back on the numbers. GJ
So, to keep in mind when searching for the right one, the brochures, commercials, all advertising only shows the max possible numbers, not the real world numbers you end up with.
For example, Ford F150 best in class payload 3270lbs, but that requires a very specific build, usually a stripped down work truck, real world is 1600lbs, even their max payload option is only available on certain trim levels so do you want that or leather? Class leading towing capacity 13,200lbs, that requires longest wheel base, super crew, 4x2. The 4x4 drops to 13,000lbs and most configurations come in around 10,500, still more than enough for an Oliver.
This just demonstrates that the onus is on you to "know" the numbers, neither the advertisers nor a sales person (that I've encountered) will have the knowledge to properly inform you, if they think your cash is halfway out of your pocket, then they'll tell you it'll work fine for what you want.
Forget the hype and go straight to the specs and tables around page 33
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Trish & Jack, I am so jealous of those white blinds.... I wonder what it would cost to replace the yellow ones..
The frosted doors look great with the "bar"
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Randy, do you have a storage rack for your small bottles? Pictures? Some folks may be unaware that they must always be transported upright. John Davies Spokane WA
No rack, and honestly I too was not aware that they MUST be kept upright, common sense figured they should be though, so...
This is how they traveled in the old truck.
Thanks
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Oops..
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"One of these things is not like the others, one of these things does not belong"
How did that Miata get in there...
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10' is what I go by for any roadway signage, when I checked mine it was just about 9½'. Myself I would go with the 10'opening, I said opening and not just door cause it needs to completely open. If it's a little too close you can always just adjust your air pressure a little, to go in and out.
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I am concerned about high altitude operation. I know about needing to re-jet the carburetor for more efficient high altitude operation. Is that just for gasoline or do you need to do that with a propane conversion as well? By “higher flow adapter” do you mean for the propane regulator? Are there any other cons about a propane generator besides the price? Is the output capacity any lower? Why would you connect it to the Oliver’s tanks only in an emergency?
As MountainOliver mentions, GenConnex is who I purchased the conversion kits from, I did both of them myself, each took about an hour to do. As a company, they are great to deal with, much like dealing with the Oliver people, they are somewhat local to me, couple hours away and when I was in a hurry and couldn't wait for overnight shipping, they left the kit outside under the bushes so I could swing by to grab it to get it done.
If you tell them you need the high altitude kit they'll throw it in for you when they send it. It isn't changing out the regulator, it replaces the orifice where their components replace where the carburetor was. I haven't noticed any power loss/difference from how a 2000 watt Generac I have runs, I do believe there is supposed to be some loss with propane but I've never noticed it.
I prefer to use easily refillable 20lb grill type tanks, they travel in the back of the truck, so they can be refilled whenever you venture out to civilization and isn't using the heating/cooking supply. It's also what I'm used to, I've switched out all my home power tools to corded electric, so this setup travels my property with me to do anything. No more little gas engines....
Here is some research info for you, a could steps in from the above link.
http://www.genconnexdirect.net/honda_generator_propane_kits.htm
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Something to consider. Propane
When we started, used a Honda 7000is, converted to propane, (already had it as a house backup) rolled it in and cabled it down and it never moved. New tow vehicle, wife decided she wanted tonneau cover, so height restricted, got a Honda 2000i and converted it to propane.
The advantages to propane:
Fixed lowest generator weight, your fuel is always separate
The whole carrying gas around, either in the generator or in a can to refuel
I'm horrible about long term fuel storage and propane doesn't go bad.
If necessary, it can be connected to the Olivers tanks to get through an emergency situation. Normally I just run it, them, off a standard gas grill tank.
If concerned about high altitude use, you can get a higher flow adapter easy enough.
The con is the initial cost of the alteration.
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That is unfortunate, others have reported some issue with the control box and removing the cover, because something was touching.
Somewhere in one of the posts someone posted numbers for BlueSky, inside access type, they are excellent work helping you out and trouble shooting, I tried searching but couldn't find it easily, figured to looking might be faster.
Edit - found the post, it was you, so I guess you already have their number. As for the outlets, they will only provide power of you turn on inverter switch, the furthest forward under the pantry depending on hull number. If it's on, the microwave beeps and is on.
The other option, if your heading that way, whereas you've had issues before too, they are located in California, maybe arrange a visit and have them completely check your system.
Good luck, keep us posted
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Website and Forums Update
in General Discussion
Posted
It would be nice to have a preview button next to the submit button, as a final visual confirmation of how things "look" before submitting. There is no way to confirm appearance when working in text mode.