dewdev
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Posts posted by dewdev
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8 hours ago, Ronbrink said:
Likely not, unless it has been replaced and you have the optional BT remote panel. My 2020 OLEll is equipped with a Xantrex XC 2000, which is not BT.
Thanks.
I agree probably not, but I will check the O&M manual for any mention of bluetooth capable.
Update: There was no mention in the O&M about wifi capabile. I called Xantrex and confirmed that only the Xantrex Freedom XC inverters have the wifi capability, not the Xantrex ProWatt XC series that I have.
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Sorry to deviate from the original subject but:
I have the Xantrex 2000 in my 2018 Elite II.
Will the xantrex app work with my 2000 watt unit or is that just for the 3000 watt unit?
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13 minutes ago, Rivernerd said:
Do you carry a multimeter in your Oliver? If so, check out the power readings at the campsite power pedestal.
More often than not, EMS issues are caused by "dirty" power from a campsite pedestal. I always verify the voltage at the pedestal with my multimeter before plugging in my 30A power cord.
mccc99's voltage showed as normal.
Are you able to test for Line Frequency with a multi-meter? How would you do that?
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I agree with Topgun2.
Your volts, hertz & amps look fine.
As Topgun2 indicated you need to check out your power source. Talk to the campground you are at or if at home have an electrical expert check it out.
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Galway Girl:
Your list reminded me. I bought a Clam tent (to over a picnic table) this summer off of eBay. It was new but the packaging had been damaged. Everything was in the package.
Cost was $175. A lot less than retail. I consider it a real bargin as ebay has used one for sale on its site for more. Right place at the right time. Lucky I guess.
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19 minutes ago, Wandering Sagebrush said:
Thanks for the reminder on the fix!
The location of the water inlet is one of the few things I believe Oliver could improve. As I age, my flexibility seems to disappear, and I’d love to not be bent over or on my knees trying to hook up the hose. I think I’ll add a quick disconnect to help attach the hose without a lot of fumbling.
I can appreciate your thoughts with the age thing. I am there as well. I use a good soft towel/blanket to kneel on and the knee joints get a little movement they do not mormally get!
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What is the Eggs 'n S'mores Rally?
Is it a official Oliver Mini-Rally?
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9 hours ago, Patriot said:
I agree on the Truma upgrade. We are very pleased with both our 13.5 Truma Aventa and Truma on demand hot water heater for many reasons. I feel pretty certain based on what I learned while at Oliver Service last Oct that Truma products may eventually be standard equipment on both OlEll and likely the OLEl. I think Lithium and Solar will continue to be upgraded options. Time will tell.
Patriot🇺🇸
Do you have the Truma furnace and if so what model Truma furnace do you have?
FYI; Here is a Truma link with a Christmas email wish and announcment of their new web site showcasting their product line.
https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/#inbox/FMfcgzGwJJfqJJgSggCwWKhHwSSgFpFC
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I think the rewards program may be back up and running. I signed in yesterday and was then able to see my balance.
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On 12/1/2023 at 12:18 PM, R Dustin said:
I saw in a video a manual wrench for operating a leveling leg when the electric motor won't work. We have a 2015 Elite II #89 that we recently purchased used and I have not found that wrench. Is there a special place that it is stored? Is there another type of device that folks have found to use to replace that wrench, or do I need to order one from Oliver?
I am sure you did not I will ask anyway:
Did you check with the previous owner?
Did you look under in the cabinet under and in front of the vanity?
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I would call the battery manufacuture (or OTT) and tell them your winter weather temperatures and ask them what they recommend for storage and degree of charge on the batteries prior to removing.
If you do remove your batteries I recommend:
- Shut off the power switch from your solar panels to the battery compartment.
- Take a picture of the batteries-wires prior to removing the wires-batteries.
- Mark where the wires are connected to and maybe bag the battery wire ends just to be safe.
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I had the same condition 2 years ago. I used air to blow out the drain line. It has been draining fine since then. It does drain somewhat slow. Raising the front of the trailer helps drain most of the water out of the tank.
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Welcome to the forum and being a new Oliver owner from another Maine owner, who purchased used myself..
Be sure to call the Oliver company and tell them you have bought your trailer, so they can register you on their owner's list and to keep you apprised of any Oliver news and Oliver issues.
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On 7/28/2023 at 5:00 PM, rangered said:
Happy to report that I have installed the Dometic FreshJet air conditioner on my Oliver this week.
The install was fairly easy only taking a couple hours for two of us to complete. I rigged up a 3 to 1 pulley system in my workshop to lift up and remove the old noisey Penguin model. The new FreshJet is significantly lighter than the old unit, and a friend and I were able to stand on some scaffolding and lift it up and onto the Oliver. The wiring connections were easy to complete using the existing thermostat control box.
I purchased the FreshJet 3 Series from RV Parts Country; $896.00 plus $124.00 shipping.
So far my wife and I are happy with the performance of the FreshJet, it quickly brought down the indoor temperature and humidity on a hot Tennessee summer day. Best of all is the difference in the sound levels between the old and new units (69db versus 52db).
Many thanks to @RoadLotus for researching the FreshJet and making everyone aware of this quiet AC option for the Oliver.
In your picture the freshjet looks to be a lot taller than the original noisy Dometic. Is that correct?
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When dumping my gray tank, I discovered a crack in my discharge hose. Luckily all I had to do was turn the crack to the top of the hose and continued to empty the gray tank without any further leak. Obviously I replaced the hose after that.
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According to this forum in the Oliver Service Center General Knowledge section they are still listing Xantrex
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My 2018 Ram 1500 4 x 4 truck is 19 feet in length, not including the trailer hitch.
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On 10/19/2023 at 11:17 AM, Rivernerd said:
Rivernerd:
Thanks for posting this video. For future reference, I tried to find it in the Resosurces section under Service videos of the forum and could not find it.
Is it only on YouTube and not on the Oliver Web Site?
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I will add a couple points:
- When you turn on the cell phone booster, I am told that you need to restart your cell phone so it connects to the booster.
- My Tireminder booster came with alligator clips on the two power wires. I cut them off and bought a USB connector which I connected to the end of the wires. Now I just plug into one of the Ollie USB connections when I want to power up the booster. I added velcro to the back of the booster and hung it above the dinnette table and plug into the USB connector under the dinnette table when the Ollie is mobile.
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The procedure for Sanitizing is on the Oliver University section of the forum. I suggest that you watch that prior to doing the sanitizing (and take notes as I did).
I agree with SeaDawg that you might want to sanitize twice. Make sure to drain the fresh water tank completely before starting the second sanitizing effort.
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My 2018 Elite II has a Atwood CO/Propane detector that has a 2016 date printed on it. Although the Atwood has not been alarming, I am going to replace it any way before that happens and have ordered the new RV Safe detector from Amazon.
Hopefully Amazon does not have old detectors in their stock. I will be checking its date when it arrives next week.
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21 hours ago, topgun2 said:
The picture I posted is from under the aft dinette seat between the hulls - there is nothing at all to see from the seating area under the dinette.
In the picture I posted - the "white" area that is behind the aluminum switch holder is actually looking through the hole of the propane/co alarm from the inside to the outside area under the dinette.
Sorry but I don't have any other pics of the "full" installation which would show the actual switch. However, the switch is simply mounted in that hole you can see in the aluminum mount.
Hope this helps.
Bill
p.s. here is a better pic taken from JD's post on the subject:
Thanks Bill.
The switch looks like a simple toggle type of switch. What type of switch is that and where can it be bought?
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3 hours ago, topgun2 said:
This might be a good place to bring back an older thread concerning the installation of a mod for the purpose of TEMPORILY stopping that noise in the middle of the night from these "false" alarms.
At about the same time John Davies and I installed a switch on the back side of the propane/co alarm. This simple on/off switch can be used to turn this alarm off in the middle of the night without having to search for the fuse and can be used while the Ollie is in storage to remove one more parasitic drain off the batteries. John came up with the idea of being sure to place a ribbon (or something) in a very visible spot to remind you that you have turned this detector off - a good idea. Anyway - here is mine and JD's looks very similar. The power wire to the propane detector is cut and placed on a switch that is mounted in the hole in the bracket. I used epoxy to attach the bracket to the interior of the wall below the aft dinette seat - where the detector is already located.
Bill
2 inch square bracket for propane switch.jfif 246.65 kB · 0 downloads
Bill:
This sound like a good idea, but I am not sure if I follow your explaination of where/how the switch is located other than you siad it was next to the detector. Mine detector is 5 years old so I am not sure how much longer the detector will work without premature alarms.
Do you have a picture of the detector/switch seen from under the dinette that you could post?
Thanks
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Delivery photos...sorta
in Delivery Day Photos
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The glowing door would make a nice picture to post, if possible.
Congrad on your new Oliver.