dewdev
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Posts posted by dewdev
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Today I added two 4" vents in the closet (one low and one high) in the same locations that OTT is installing in the newer Olivers. Additionally, I added a 3" return air vent in the bathroom that vents into the underside of the forward dinette seat like OTT is now installing. I also added one 4" return air vent like Rivernerd recommended on the hall side of the forward dinette seat. I will be testing the heating system with these new vents later in the early spring,
The real reason that I am adding to the post is becasue I wanted to share where I purchased these vents. I looked on Amazon for 4" vents, like some have suggested, to get a price. I then called OTT and got a price for their vents. The price that OTT is charging is substanitally less than Amazon's price. I purchased from OTT 3-4" vents and 1-3" vent for about the same cost as Amazon was charging for one 4" vent.
IMO, for those with older Oliver's, that want to added return air vents, I recommend to purchase them from OTT and save youself some money. Plus my new vents now match what OTT is now installing.
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Hay Kirk:
A couple pictures of your 2018 RAM 3500 conversion would be appreciated.
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15 hours ago, ScubaRx said:
In Hull #050 it is a 3” bathroom vent with the two cabin vents being 4”.
Steve:
I was referring to the return vents that OTT is now installing in the newer Ollie's. Any idea what the bathroom return air vent is on the wall between the bathroom and the dinette.
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Nan:
Did you make your appointment in Georgia at Southland RV? They must have not found the leak. Can you take it to Oliver Service Department in TN?
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On 1/25/2024 at 10:11 AM, Rivernerd said:
2". I expect that is what Oliver had in stock, as it is the same size as the supply air vents. One could easily substitute a 4" Valterra vent for even better air flow.
Mike at Oliver parts told me that they only have 4" and 3" diameter vents. The return vent in the bathroom must be 3". Did you measure yours? Does that sound correct?
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That is unlikley.
More likely it is getting in at the lighted "Oliver" plaque on the back of the Oliver. Check the caulking around this plaque for any breaks in the seal.
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My RV Lock makes a funny extra (music type) sound when the batteries are low and then still makes the normal (music) sound during unlocking or when the RV Lock is locking. This has been like that for about a month now while the trailer is waiting for spring. Normally, when the batteries are good, I hear a sound with each depression of the 4 password numbers. When the RV Lock accepts the password, it make a music sound during unlocking as well as when locking. So the RV Lock gives plenty of advance notice that the batteries need to be replaced.
I really like the RV Lock myself. I keep the key forb and key in my pocket or in the TV. It is nice to just come back from a hike and put in the code and unlock the door without finding a key. I would not be concerned with upgrading to a RV Lock as you can always use the actual key just like on a regular lock.
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Thanks MAX Burner.
What are you referring to when you say "Shackle Nuts"?
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Max Burner is correct.
I replaced mine this fall (it had a 2017 mfg date on it) before it went bad. Followed the wires back toward the source and found one red and 1 black wire. I also found a fuse holder in the line. I added a switch in case of futher alarms/problems, but the fuse could be pulled instead of adding a switch.
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I have seen on this forum discussions for torque setting for the Wheel Nuts (90-100 ft-lbs) and the Leveling Jack flange bolt nuts (43 ft-lbs).
Are there other fasterners on the Ollie's that we should be checking torque and what setting should they be?
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The Anderson link you provided seem a lot of $$$. You really do need to get the blocks to go under the electric jacks so the jacks are not out really long. As topgun2 said you can cut some 2x6 wood for using to go under the wheels to level the trailer when on camp sites that are not level. You will also want to get some wheel chocks. I guess if the $$$ do not bother you then your suggested link items gives you all the items you would need.
I have the Proven Lock system to lock up the bull-dog hitch. I recommend it. It cost a little more than what you are proposing but is far more secure.
Also, I did get the Oliver shower curtain. Their curtain not only keeps the compost toilet area dry but it can also extend to in front of the door so you can leave the bathroom door open during a shower. I like OTT shower curtain a lot and IMO works better than anything that I could have installed myself.
What battery (or solar) package did you decide on?
Happy camping. Time will go by fast now that you have ordered.
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The newer Oliver TT have a method to lock the drawers by pushing them in tight to the cabinet. . Must be some type of locking mechanism. Can these locking devices be added to the older trailer drawers?
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The Oliver Elite and Oliver Elite II trailers are being shown at the Boston RV Camping show, for the first time, this weekend at the Boston Convention Center.
There was a lot of Ollie interest by people at the show. Scott Oliver was at the event along with the Tim of Tim's RV the Massachusetts sales dealer.
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On 12/7/2023 at 5:13 PM, ScubaRx said:So stand by everyone, it looks like this is about to get a little more interesting.
Will the new sales/service dealerships be offering the "Yearly Maintenance" work tasks that OTT service does?
Or will that service only be offered by OTT themselves in TN.
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11 hours ago, Jason Foster said:
I can confirm that in my 24, however, looking at the Truma makes me wonder why it wasn't mounted 90 degrees since the current orientation causes a substantial kink in the air ducts. However, that would compromise the mounting on top the wheel well. Although I don't really see a problem with that.
Return vents:
Bathroom
Closet upper and lower venting
As seen in the pictures, they installed one above and below. However, it stays cold in there so without possative airflow using a fan, it is just dead space. I think a small DC power fan mounted on one of these vents would make a big difference, though I'm not sure if it is needed since there are no water lines in there.
Jason:
It look like the Oliver installed vent in the bathroom is smaller than the ones in the closet wall. What size is the bathroom vent?
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After reading these posts (and the link that Rivernerd provided), I have a few question and am looking for you-all opinions.
First - FYI, I do not plan to change the heater supply piping, at this point in time, as I only camp in the shoulder seasons (which can be somewhat cold in New England).
Second - I am thinking of adding a high and low return air vent to the closet as OTT has done in their newer models. Other than provide some ventilation to the closet, what benefit will those vents do to the overall cabin heating situation?
Third - I plan to add a return air vent low in the bathroom wall. Is adding a 4" round return air vent on the aisle side of the front dinette seat (return air to the same area as the bathroom vent provides) of any additional benefit to heating in the lower piping/tank areas and the cabin heat?
Thanks
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I googled "campgrounds near Fort Collins" and a few campgrounds were listed in the area, including a KOA.
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7 hours ago, jd1923 said:
Thanks @AlbertNTerri I found it and thank you @Minnesota Oli. Wow what an extensive upgrade, very well done! Yep, the only way to the bathroom is the long way around. And yes, our hull #113 is from 2016 and unless I overlooked one, I only see two curbside ducts in the back half of the cabin.
If we lived in Minnesota, first I'd move to Arizona (we lived our first 45 years in Northern IL) but kidding aside, this extensive mod would be necessary up north. Great ideas here. Love the new furnace plate with the added 2" outlet and I had no idea they made 2" duct hose. Food for thought and yes will always share mods. Thanks again!
jd1923:
It sounds like you found the vent in the bathroom under the toilet paper holder, which is good.
In my 2018 Oliver Elite II, we had a similiar low amount of air coming out of the vent covers. After talking to Oliver service, we ended up temporarily popping off the vent covers at each vent and removing the plastic diverters behind the cover and then reinstalled the vent cover back on. These plastic diverters were restricting the air flow. You might want to considering removing the plastic diveters, if they are still installed, as their removal greatly improved our air flow.
Also, place you hand in front of the bathroom vent to feel if you are getting air coming out of that vent. If you have no air flow at the bathroom vent. (I have seen on this forum where some people have found that the vent piping was not connected to the vent outlet.) If this is the case, you can remove the front bottle plate (4 screws) in front of the bathroom vanity so you can reconnect the vent piping to the vent cover.
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FYI, Tim's RV in Massachusetts (Oliver's new local sales-sevice center) has the Oliver TT's in three shows in New England. Boston RV Show (January), Springfield MA RV show (February) and a smaller show in Auburn Maine in April. Hopefully they are all inside the show facility
Also Charlotte & Atlanta shows will have Oliver's at it by the local Sales-service center so indicated in a email that Oliver sent out.
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IMO, I would drain the FW tank and lines completely after sanitizing the tank and lines. Only fill the FW tank when you are south enough to not have freezing temperatures. Use bottle water until that time. The electric heater, although it might keep the cabin warm, may not keep the FW tank and lines above freezing unless you can get heat down in the area of the tanks and lines.
Also, keep in mind that a larger volume of water would not freeze as fast as a small volume.
Edit: The above statement is not suggsting to fill the FW tank during freezing temperatures. A full tank would not leave room for expansion and could crack the tank.
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5 hours ago, Kansa said:
Could use some advice on the 120. I have tried to hook up to 120 one time before last winter and when I did the Ollie made popping noises so I unhooked it and went on solar last winter I was using a Marinco adapter and the 120 extension that I used on my previous trailer a jayco. with this cold this year I need 120 to run furnace my antifreeze in the toilet bowl froze
never had a problem with the extension it was long roughly 75 foot heavy gauge.. on my old trailer my power cord was hard wired and I had no solar I plugged my adapter into the rv 30 amp cord then the extension …
should I try to use the 30 amp cord to the Ollie then adapter to a shorter 120 extension I have. and pray the popping noise doesn’t happen or use the solar shut down and try it
my inverter is always in the off I have AGMs
I would drive it to a campground for a few days but I live on a hiway and they have plowed and blocked the drive with ice
I would use the 30 amp cord to the Ollie and use an adapter at your garage outlet.
Do you have a EMS or a polarity tester that you can plug into your garage outlet to confirm that it is wired correct?
What is the amperage of your 120 volt source in your garage? If it is only 10 amp that may be the problem.
What do you mean the "Ollie made popping noises"?
What was making the noise. Was it the EMS in the attic?
Did you look at the readings on the EMS in the attic when it was making the popping noises?
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As topgun2 and Rolind mentioned, the quality of the Oliver is one of the best in the industry. Oliver is far above the others in support of their owner's (both new and used).
Contact the Oliver company and they will let you know where the closest Owner's are located to your location who can show you their Oliver. They will also set up the meeting day and time for you. I suggest that you look at both the Elite and the Elite II for comparision.
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The discussion of type of fabric reminds me of the 1962 Apache pop-up tent trailer my dad owned. After he stopped camping in 1968, it was in storage for a number of years (we would alway dry it out after it got wet though) until I pulled it out of the barn to start using it again in 2000. The wife would not stay in the pop-up because of the odor. I was lucky to find on-line the person that managed the canvas department when Apache was in business. He had all the patterns and made me new canvas for the Apache out of Sunbrella material (same as what was on my boat). It was like having a new tent trailer again.
Wow, that was a long time ago, when me and my dad went camping and when you could find a campground anywhere without making a reservation.
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Gj
I have both the Coleman stove and latern like you. Is there anyway to convert the colemans to a different gas?
Dometic Refrigerator Problem
in Mechanical & Technical Tips
Posted
Did you need to remove the door to get the old Dometic out of the trailer and to get the Nova Kool in?
Did the new Nova Kool require the upper and lower vents on the OTT?