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We purchased a portable when our built in died on a trip and it was faster to the get than the built in replacement. One of the best insurance items I have in the truck,

That’s the kind of math I’m looking for 🙂

I have been considering doing this but had a small voice in the back of my head that keeps saying “check the wire gauge and the fuses.” Any concern with moving from the 5 watts to 65 watts on the factory wiring harness? I keep meaning to do the math, but I am bad enough on AC wire gauges, I’m still new to DC.

[We find our hero unloading the tow vehicle on a hot Texas driveway having just driven back from the Hill Country. ] You know, I should take the Andersen Hitch Ball off the truck between trips. It's so much larger than the regular ball I used with the LE I. I bet I run into that all week while loading for the next trip. That's gonna hurt. [Grabs lightweight ratcheting crescent wrench and starts to remove screw in anti-rattle hitch pin.] Spin Spin Spin Sp... Huh, the anti-rattle hitch pin is not coming all the way out of the internal nut that holds it tight against the wall. Guess I should get a socket wrench. [Ignores voice in head that says "What about a squirt of penetrating oil there cowboy."] Spin forward with the socket wrench, spin backward with the socket wrench. Still sticking in the same place. You know - I have the longer, non ratcheting handle. [Ignores voice in head that says "You know that the real name for that is a 'Breaker Bar'?"] Put a bit of weight behind that - it will loosen up. [SFX - metal snapping] Oh snap. That's going to be a bit of work to get out of there. [Audience laughter]

My May assumption is from the original date on the registration, so could have been April. I wilL say it did not take much to pull up, so don’t do what I did this week and try to use a breaker bar to remove a stuck anti rattle hitch pin. 🙂 (I did learn that a sawsall with a Diablo blade is faster than a grinding wheel to cut it off after you sheer the bolt inside the hitch.) Photos - because I wanted to be sure myself.

The LE II Is #1364 - we are the second owners but I think they picked up in May of 23. #1030 is the LE I - we are looking for it’s next home. We have the flat surface under the table top - no dip like the older ones where you have some storage. The top is definately Velcro on ours. However there do seem to be a lot of mid-year changes that occurred in the ‘23s.

Ours (2023 LE II) is held down by Velcro strips. Found this out while preparing for new tops Foy tops. 🙂

New to us Oliver Legacy Elite II (2023) Hull #1364. Have spent the weekend in the Texas Hlll Country updating my knowledge of Oliver systems from our two year journey with LE I Hull #1030 (2022). Only two problems so far. Giving each issue it’s own topic for future search help. In this topic - our problems with the Isothem fridge. We can’t keep it in the safe zone consistently. We have SensorPush sensors in the main compartment as well as the freezer - the freezer seems to work great but the fridge hovers at the top of the safe zone for much of the day. Recovery after opening the door also seems to take longer than our old tri-fuel fridge. Here is the full scenario: (1) Shore power 30 Amp all tests good. No issues with any other systems (AC/ lighting / etc) (2) We have a fridge fan that we moved over from our LE I tri fuel. It’s located in the center of the fridge space and operating correctly. (3) Weekend food load - not a lot but not empty. (4) Confirmed that the vent cover is in place on the exterior vent opening. Have read everything I can find searching the forums. It does not appear that the previous owners did any extra insulation on the exterior wall, should I get some reflective blanket material and put that in covering from the upper vent to the lower access panel? Fins and back side of the fridge look clean, so I don’t think there is an issue with buildup on the coils. Appreciate any advice on how to improve the operation on the fridge. I don’t want to have to haul a backup fridge if I don’t need to.

Ollie LE II Owners - we are the second owners of the Hull #1364. The original owners did not have the closet bar installed, and the screws that were in the hangers are WAY too long for purpose. If someone could post a photo of the way the factory mounts the closet bar in the II it would be much appreciated. Thanks very much - Kevin

Couple of quick orientation questions: Model / Hull Number / Year ? Does the grey tank drain if you open it? (Try to close the black first.) Have you followed the cable as far as you can from the handle on the outside under the seats? Does it appear kinked or crimped? Is it free of obstructions? Can you confirm that the valve is actually opening? If not, can you open it by hand? Full disclosure - I have more experience with LE I than II, we just picked up our II this week. But hopefully if you put the answers to these questions in the thread smarter people than me can help.

Grade 30 confirmed - received my Andersen today via UPS (talk about a heavy box) and inspected the chain. It’s marked “L3” which is the grade 30.

Mike at Oliver provided the following handy specs.... I am assuming that he is referring to Grade 30 as opposed to Grade 70 since he mentions galvanized.

Thanks for the link - ordered. I'm building up a list of projects when we take delivery next week.

Thanks for that - looked it up and could not live without it! That is a great organization tool. Thanks for the photos.

It's the 2 inch coupler. Definitely a good thing to check!

Thanks very much - the photo is just what I needed. That combined with the video in Oliver U makes it make sense. I am going to go with that assumption since I could not find a dealer with stock in south Dallas / Fort Worth, and I ended up ordering from the Andersen store on Amazon. I looked through the manual and the install guides and could not find a specification page where they say what the chain spec is. Do you know what the chain size / weight rating is?

We are moving from an LE I to and LE II and have just purchased Hull #1364 (‘23 LE II). The previous owners had a larger truck so no Andersen Hitch installed. I have one ordered and have watched the video from Oliver University, but am still unclear on the placement of the brackets on the frame. The images in the video show placing them on the internal frame members, but it’s not clear how far back. Does someone who has the Andersen Hitch post a photo that would help me place the brackets properly on the frame? I know enough to realize this is going to take getting under the trailer, so my deepest thanks in advance to anyone willing to help out. If you did your own Andersen install any and all tips are greatly appreciated.

Thanks very much John will take you up on that!

Acknowledging the risk of starting a contentious discussion.... For the composting toilet boosters - We are studying the possibility of staying with the composting toilet and are reading other threads around that. However, I'm a planner so I want to understand / gather parts lists for a "de-conversion" project. Does anyone know the exact model of the toilet that is in the LE II in the 2023 model year range? If I'm going to make the change the spouse would like a lower one than our LE I currently has if possible. I think it's a Dometic 3xx but trying to determine which one exactly. The LE I is a Dometic 311. I believe that it's the same between the LE I and the LE II - again not sure of this though. From other posts I know that the black tank is still in there, as well as the water valve to hook up to the flush toilet. Any advice on what is required to make the connection between the black tank and the toilet would be appreciated. Thanks very much - once I start this project, I will be putting a reverse how-to up on the forum. Kevin

We are purchasing a Olliver II that was previously towed with a Ford F250, so the owners do not have an Anderson WDH. Since we are currently Ollie LE I owners, we did not purchase one with ours. Now I need to get one, However, I never realized that there are multiple models. Can anyone who is towing their LE II with a Ford F150 XLT let me know which model Anderson you have? Want to have it with me to put on when we pick up the trailer. ** EDIT ** As suggested below, open to purchasing one if shipping / hassle factor does not exceed a new one 😀. If you have one taking up space and you have moved to a larger tow vehicle let me know. Thanks for any advice.

We have the same stove. Our solution is to carry a 5 lb “gas growler” in a padded case to run the stove. I also use it with the Camp Chef flattop - sometimes it’s just easier than trying to T off the tank prior to the regulator. Of course - that’s likely because I have an LE I with the smaller propane doghouse on the front. 🙂 Not much space to put a splitter before the regulator.

After the baseline stuff - towing package, trailer features, stuff that makes it a tow vehicle - we were focused on what would make it comfortable and safe on longer drives. Yes, I know I should be able to do all that without the fancy trailer knob, but if I’m buying a truck for towing those things were top of the list. After that: Advanced cruse control with lane keeping alerts and following speed and braking. I’m just so used to that I don’t want to not have it. When I am traveling for work and get a rental car without it I miss it. Cross Traffic detection and reverse warnings - basically all the you are about to hit something or it’s about to hit you warnings. Apple Car Play - because the in car navigation is out of date when you pick it up 🙂 Bucket seats - because (a) height difference and (b) that way the passenger can reach things placed in the back seat like water bottle refills and lunch. The highly adjustable seats are a definite bonus. Strange as it sounds - the bed lighting option. I know I can put that on aftermarket, but it’s a Saturday I don’t have to spend. The power adjustable pedals on the Ford were a light bulb moment. Rebecca claims she will never drive the truck - but she may need to someday and that will help her greatly. Same with the tailgate step. Again - good aftermarket options that we may still add to the sides. 360 Cameras - is it just the geek in me that I did not want to give up the 360 cameras? I think it’s that “first time truck buyer” security blanket, given that I have yet to park one of our test drives between the lines at the dealership when we came back. Cones and an open parking lot are in my future while I figure out the spatial relationships of the larger vehicle.

I received my bi-weekly solicitation from AAA in today's mail, and because I was neck deep in truck and Oliver stuff it made me wonder - "What travel services or clubs have others found useful?" I was halfway into starting a new thread when I thought - "I really should do a search to see if there thread is already out there." Glad I did - hate to be "that person who needs to learn to search." 🙂 When we first picked up "Reset" one of the exciting things was the idea of boondocking - something we could not do in our prior camper. So, I signed up for membership to Harvest Hosts. Over the year and a renewal, we have used it once - staying at a distillery in Kentucky. It was a delightful evening, and being at a distillery I had no problem meeting the $20 purchase recommendation. Our travels and the HH locations have not overlapped a great deal to date, it's still an aspirational thing rather than very useful. Good Sam - signed up for the insurance which has been good so far, although I need to shop the overall plans. The trip routing tools are nice; however I have recently been playing around with the planner from RVLife and really like the way it works. The gas discounts are great - especially since Pilot Flying J is currently stacking the Good Sam Discount with their own app discount. Looking at the AAA offerings while printing yet another window sticker to review, I got to wondering "Is there a perfect travel club or service? One that provides the best tools and benefits?" Adding this comment to bump this thread up and see if there are new things in 2023 that people think are valuable / not valuable.

At the risk of really taking this thread off track and turning it into yet another tow vehicle discussion.... (Asbestos suit on) This has really turned into a journey through trucks. For context, we have driven Subarus for about 20 years. Trucks are a bit out of my comfort zone, so of course I did a ton of research. We started out with Ford vs Ram, and Ram 1500 was an early front runner. However, after going through three different Ram dealerships in the Dallas area, we decided that if we purchased a Ram, we would never want to take it back for service. All three dealerships made me wonder how Ram ever sells a single truck. I'm sure there are dealerships out there that are good - however fighting through the "we don't have what you want but will gladly have you overpay for what we have" and "I know the website says you can order but we really prefer to have our money on a sale today" we went back to one of the Ford dealers that we had really enjoied working with initially. So - with no paperwork signed yet - we are currently looking at a F150 XLT (ducks) 3.5L V6 ECOBOOST 4x4 3.55 ELECTRONIC LOCK RR AXLE short bed with the Max Trailer Tow package and the 2KW onboard power. 36 gallon extended range tank, box link bed package, 360 cameras etc. Not willing to go up to the Laramie for the Parking Assist -I will just have to learn how to park the beast. 🙂 I don't have the door tag on this one yet - it's being transferred so I need to go look at it - but based on a similar one without the second alternator it should be 1,800 lbs. available payload capacity. Spec HP @ 6k RMP is 400 on the 3.5L Ecoboost V6, and with the 3.55 axle setup should have approx. 11,200 towing. Given the a LE II axle max (per spec, not counting the hidden 10k rumored spec) is 7,000 lbs and that's the only thing we have in our future to tow, should be sufficient. Inspired by several others on the forums I have been building a gear weight spreadsheet. We currently have an LE I - likely two to three years out from the LE II - so I have that to work with as well. In all seriousness - glad to get thoughts on this plan from those with more experience. We have been looking at the 250 (in theory, very few actually exist that are not diesel) but availability seems challenging. We don't want to go diesel due to the fact that this is primarily a tow vehicle - I have too long a commute for it to be a daily driver - and everything we have been told is that diesels that sit, quit. For context we hope to be able to take longer trips in the 4 - 5 year time horizon. Dream trip is Canada, Newfoundland, etc. If that makes a difference in any advice. Again - thanks so much for all the quick thoughts around the 4x4 and tire size! Finally - Rebecca said I should include a photo of the type of car she had in college. This is why she has the Mini Cooper Clubman 6 speed manual now. Her car was a 1979 Datsun 510. Mine was a 1979 Mustang Hatchback, no photos because it was the embarrassing unfortunate Mustang, part of Ford's wandering in the wilderness design period. It's taken 40 years to get over that and look at another Ford,

Thanks very much everyone - since I can't find the truck I want and I'm ordering one, I wanted to get the best advice on specs so I didn't have to kick myself later. I appreciate the info on the tires and on the 4x4. I