John and Jodi

Thanks. I've tightened up the screws for now. This will go on a list of things to fix the next time I get back to the factory.

My solar panel inside is only being held on by one screw (the right side). The left one seems to be the victim of some non-standard cutting. Is there a way to get behind this and use a bolt and nut? Or a bead of clear silicon caulk?

No, but I recognize the locking pin as the mechanism we use to secure our propane tanks. Didn't even look in there. Mysteries solved and got a few good tips on securing the Bulldog hitch. Thank you community! One other takeaway is that I can put the cotter pin in with my other spare parts (fuses, etc). It doesn't need to be on the keyring.

Well we qualify, so fess up!

We have the electric lock door which has a remote and key identified by the brand, RVLock, so I don't think it's the door key, but, I admit, I didn't try it. Our Bulldog hitch has a hitch pin to keep it's lever secure. However, the pin we use to secure the Anderson weight distribution hitch uses a cotter pin for security....Hmmm, that could be it for #2.

These three keys were on our camper key ring. #1 is used for locking/unlocking the external compartments (basement and batteries). #2 and #3 are mysteries to us. We'd appreciate any help.

We love Davis Mountains State Park. We're usually there around Labor Day to get a break from the San Antonio summer heat. It's a great birding spot and has a fair amount of trails. If hiking is not your thing or the weather is bad, we also love the old fort, and Alpine has the Museum of the Big Bend at Sul Ross State University and the Reata restaurant. We've been to Big Bend twice, but going there is a commitment. Driving to the Big Bend National Park visitor center from Fort Davis is almost three hours each way. For Fredericksburg, we enthusiastically support the above suggestions: Enchanted Rock, the war museum, LBJ Ranch, and the wineries.

@routlaw Thanks for mentioning this. I use the app as well but hadn't realized that the app's data wasn't being updated.

Thanks @bhncb for the suggestions. Our TV comes down often. I'll go through your list.

Just completed a 2600-mile adventure from San Antonio to Sedona, AZ to the Gila Wilderness, NM. Stayed 6 nights at Rancho Sedona RV Park in Sedona. Pricey, but convenient! Loved the hiking but crazy busy especially on the weekend. The highlight was actually the Gila Wilderness where we enjoyed a quiet, dark, and unplugged stay. Stayed at Gila Hot Springs 4 nights. Saw multiple Ollies in the wild on I-10. On 25 Oct, we saw two Ollies in West Texas while traveling westbound. One was headed east and the other we caught up with heading west. We then saw the same(?) Ollie (TN plates) heading west in AZ on the 26th after staying the night in Demming, NM. Above: West Fork of Oak Creek Trail, Sedona, AZ Above: Devil's Bridge, Sedona, AZ Above: Gila Hot Springs, NM Above: Cooking breakfast in Gila Hot Springs, NM Above: The Gila River making its way to the Gulf of California. Not a human structure in sight!

We've been listening to the following books on our trips: Prey series by John Sanford (gritty crime novels, up to book #6) Crazy Rich Asians by Kevin Kwan Origin by Dan Brown The Chemist by Stephanie Meyer All the Ugly and Wonderful Things by Bryn Greenwood

Well the hypothetical has become reality: we have our enclosed spot, no sun. Just checking in with y'all that the recommendation for lithium batteries is to turn them off. I'm assuming that means the button on each battery, correct? Then when it's time to use the trailer, turn the batteries back on and let the solar recharge them?

I wanted to update this post. Within a couple of days of initiating this post I made contact with the factory. The service team was very helpful in setting me up with a local repair shop. To make a long story short, everything was fixed by Labor Day at no cost to me. No leaks, looks good!

I never thought about turning the batteries off. Thanks. How important is the leveling with an empty trailer, empty tanks, and refrigerator off?

We live in San Antonio and our RV storage place is expanding and I have options that I haven't had until now and need to make a decision. We have few freezes but the sun is brutal most of the summer. Enclosed: most secure, most protected, most expensive. Question: Do I need to plug in (only 20A) to keep the batteries charged since no sun to have solar do it? Covered: currently have an end spot so more exposed to the sun. We have the Ollie cover so we can do that, but not convenient and do we have to plug in (same question as above)? Covered, but not necessary to put the Ollie cover on it. Exposed Do I need tire covers? Any thoughts on how to smartly store an Ollie in between uses would be appreciated.

As an Oliver owner for two months now, I have to confess disappointment in my perceived quality of Oliver's caulking. One element is effectiveness as my recent post describes troubleshooting a possible leak. Another element is completeness, such as the photo below. If you're going to caulk a seam, why leave the area behind the pipe uncaulked? And my last gripe is the finish. Caulk, done well, can cover over and hide construction issues and convey a smooth, clean finish. My back window's caulk is yellow. I have black outlines around my windows from the caulk catching dirt, and I have caulk smears in other places. Is this on purpose? Poor workmanship? A common occurrence? For the prices we pay, I expect a better finish. What are your thoughts?

@Ollietime Yes, I said that the pipe was wet. When I inspected the closet, it had liquid in it. However, through the course of the day I've figured out that the liquid wasn't completely and only water. When we returned our trailer to its storage location (outside, but under cover), the original spot, if it was water, would have dried. It hadn't. The ground there is asphalt and it was 100 degrees today. The liquid was like it was mineral oil, clear, slick, and it won't "dry". Bottom line: I think this was a one time "mess" from the ceramic coating process. Now to @Frank C, @SeaDawg, and @John E Davies points, to be sure, I will inspect the roof more completely soon and recaulk what I need to. The trailer was and is now slightly nose down. The bath vent has been closed the whole time. Thanks for all the help today. Any recommendations for type/brand of caulk to use?

So after troubleshooting most of the day, this is where I am: Without opening the bathroom vanity, the liquid seems to be contained in the closet and then drained through the floor cover to the weep/drain hole. We believe this is related to the wash/ceramic coating service that I had done recently because: The liquid feels "slick" Washing our hands after touching the liquid causes the water to bead up on our hands We never noticed a spot under the camper prior to the service There do appear to be caulking issues both outside and inside (see photos below) In spite of all of this, using our hose, we could not duplicate the issue We confirmed with our detailer that he did not use a pressure washer or any other high pressure device to wash or apply the coating We both "soaked" the roof next to the vent checking for seepage and also used the "jet" setting on the vent to try to generate some splash Additionally, when we returned home from Hohenwald, we drove through some hellacious t-storms and did not notice a leak Next steps include: Calling Oliver and opening a service ticket Attempting to recaulk the exterior seam next to the vent Determining whether the interior seams need to be caulked: around the pipe; closet side wall to ceiling; closet front wall to ceiling; as well as the entire length of the closet front wall to side wall Monitoring for additional liquid in the closet. As @mossemi noted, our storage spot is under cover and it doesn't rain here a lot right now so we'll see. Please let me know if you have any recommendations for type/brand of caulk to use. Photo 1: exterior vent seam on roof Photo2: light through hole in closet ceiling Photo 3: interior caulking issues?

@Mike and Carol You're right that we haven't had any rain, but I did get my Ollie washed and ceramic coated. I never noticed the spot prior to that. I wasn't present for the work so I have no idea how the detailer washed and rinsed the trailer. If I follow this thread and assume that he was generous with the water, could the vent pipe have "filled up"? Where is the other end of the pipe connected to? If it did/does have water in it, how do I get it out? The other option is that the fluid somehow ran down the outside of the pipe and dripped into the closet. @John E Davies Yes, I've studied the diagram and I can even pick out the pipe on the diagram, but it's not labeled as to its function, so I asked.

The closet floor had water in it and the large black pipe was wet. What does the pipe in the closet do? There was nothing stored in the closet that was liquid. How do I look under the bathroom vanity? There's not an obvious cover to remove. Under the kitchen sink was dry.

Going to go explore the Ollie's "basement" today. I'll give an update on what I find, if anything. We've only used the Ollie for four nights total so far (2 nights in Hohenwald and 2 nights in Tyler State Park outside Tyler, TX). Both locations we used city water with a pressure reducer so I think my white water tank is still empty. Do I need to power up and pressurize the water system? I'm thinking the answer is "yes". I don't have water at my storage location.

We live in San Antonio and it hasn't rained for a month. The power is completely off and the trailer hasn't moved in a couple of weeks. Every time I visit the trailer, it has this fresh spot of liquid (appears to be water) under the right front of the trailer (see photo below). The liquid seems to be coming from a drain (see photo below). Does anyone have an idea of what this drain drains? And is this a problem?

After talking with @Patriot about PPF, I followed their suggestion to apply a thick film in the lower front of our Ollie. All recommendations on PPF installation say find an installer you trust and use the brand of film that they use. I received a recommendation for a local PPF installer and detailer and had him work on my new F-150 (a more familiar vehicle) to assess quality and working relationship. He was excellent (contact me for a referral if near San Antonio). So we installed Suntek 11.5 mil film to the "front impact area" and then ceramic coated the entire Ollie.

I guess I was lucky, because I've hitched up my Ollie a grand total of three times (leaving the factory, leaving the factory campground, and leaving an enroute stop on the way home). The last time is when I tried my approach described above when we were at a curved pull-thru at a state park. The Anderson went on easily. I pulled forward and the ball was below the coupler but off to the right maybe an inch. Like you said, the lever did not close, so I pushed and my wife pulled and the ball dropped into the correct position. We closed the lever and were on our way, the first time. If I needed to reposition, I have two options: Back up (a few inches) and try again. This is a delicate maneuver--no heavy feet. Don't run the back of your TV into the hitch. If relatively level, I'd even consider pulling forward (inches, not yards) while still attached to the Anderson and restarting the hookup. This lines up the TV and the trailer better. The risk is having the trailer not stop moving forward when the TV stops, and hitting the TV. For safety, I could put my chocks a foot in front of the trailer wheels or I could even plug in my 7-pin connector and have brakes, if long enough.

I may not be the smartest camper around, but why not back the TV a couple of inches past the hitch coupler socket, hook up the Anderson first (should have slack), and pull the TV forward to drop bulldog onto the ball and tighten the slack on the Anderson chains? No mods necessary.