Steph and Dud B

If you don't want to drill holes in the hull, why not use a portable solar panel on the ground with it's own charge controller and just run the cables through the open battery compartment door?

Excellent rebuttal in the second video. I'm not an electrical engineer, but I can't see how this can be a "safety feature" like BB claims. Loose connections on high amperage devices create heat, heat causes cell failure and potential thermal runaway in lithium batteries.

Wow! That is bad engineering. Here's a direct link to the video:

We still carry a genny. Never use it, except to charge Stephanie's e-bike, but it's nice to have, just in case.

Have you checked the wire connections inside the transfer switch housing (with all power disconnected, obviously). Those wires have been known to come loose.

A couple of thoughts: 1. Does your trailer have 2 shoreline inputs, one on the driver's side and one on the passenger side of the hitch? If so, try the other one. 2. Does your unit have a power management system display, perhaps in the attic cabinet? With shore power connected, does the PMS display show anything? Any error codes? Not sure where the transfer switch and converter are in your model year. You should be able to find that information online in Oliver University

These look pretty close. https://a.co/d/4vsDRnm https://a.co/d/fXL5iZq

The awning power switch needs to be on. Then you can turn the lights on/off with the awning remote.

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone.

I've heard of these. Looks like an easy option for those who want to run their A/C with a 2kW generator and don't have factory installed soft start.

We've towed various trailers with everything from a V8 Ford Explorer to a diesel F350 dually. I concur with the previous posts that you might need, and would definitely be happier with, a larger tow vehicle.

Yep, square cut opening for the water heater. This is the location of the crack. Considering that Oliver is a fiberglass company first, not to mention the premium prices they charge for their trailers, I'm really disappointed that they would cut corners like this (both literally and figuratively). I'm sure a good boat repair shop could figure out a repair, but would they be able to remove and reinstall the water heater with its associated gas line, plumbing, and wiring? We could go back to Hohenwald Service, but we've had sloppy work there, too, and it's a long drive. My wife just came in the room and suggested maybe we should get this fixed, then sell the trailer. Really sad to hear that because this was her dream camper. (And, for those keeping score, I missed one on my previous list. This is actually #22. 😕)

Back on topic, I'm still unsure of my course of action. Should I take the trailer back to Hohenwald for warranty fiberglass repair? That's a lot of expense and inconvenience for us. What kind of shop could do this repair locally? A boat shop? Or is OTT better equipped? Would a repair be permanent or just crack again at the same point? OTOH, is this only cosmetic and unlikely to spread further? Even so, a "cosmetic" crack won't help with resale on a very expensive trailer. I asked OTT how long a repair would take and I'm waiting to hear back on that. I think I may actually know when this happened. We had just set up at a campsite this fall. When I stepped onto the steps to go inside there was a sharp noise from the back of the trailer. It was odd enough that I actually went back and looked underneath to see what it was, but saw nothing. (Checked underneath again today, still OK.) Would gelcoat cracking make an audible noise like that??

Look, a butterfly! (Sorry...) 😁

In retrospect that's what I should have done, but this was on the warranty list for that first trip back to Hohenwald. They had the trailer for a day and a half. When we went back to get it, they told me they couldn't find a problem with the bolts. I asked them to fetch a torque wrench and I showed them myself. Then we had to wait another two and a half hours while they got a new bracket from the factory and put it in.