Steph and Dud B

@Skynyrd, there are several threads discussing this in the forum. Google "Oliver trailers forum Winter camping." There are weak spots in the plumbing that may or may not have been addressed with some of the changes in the more recent model years. Like @DanielBoondock says, any camper can be a winter camper if you want it to. I've seen Airstreams being used all winter here in CT. Full hookups, belly skirts, and lots and lots of propane. Not my cup of tea, though, and we also consider our Oliver a 3-season camper.

Again, wow! I wonder what went wrong? We've filled that way dozens of times. Of course, 35 psi of non-compressible water can still do a lot of damage if it has nowhere to go, but you said it was venting out the overflow tube. Will be interested to hear if your tube is kinked or blocked somehow. Enjoy the rest of your, hopefully uneventful, trip.

Wow. Sorry you went through that! Hope everything's ok. Unfortunately for us, going by the tank monitor is ineffective. It reads full long before the tank is actually full. We will use a pressure regulator when filling and monitor closely, though. Thanks for the warning.

Bug and Tar Remover, then wash and re-wax.

We have a 2022 and the same situation with the carriage bolt holes. One was so large the bolt would turn in the hole and was never fully tightened to spec at the factory. Had that bracket replaced at the factory under warranty.

Updating the original crack situation: We did end up taking the trailer back to TN for repair of the fiberglass under warranty.

Not sure what a screen way up inside the pipe accomplishes. There's already a valve to keep critters from reaching the tank. A screen right at the outlet would make more sense, to keep wasps, etc. out of the tube.

Hi. Read through this forum. Use Google search: "Oliver trailers forum <insert your question here>." Tons of good information available.

We have a crew cab long bed. The long bed is good for storage, especially if you have a large Clam screen room. The downside is maneuverability. Our truck and trailer combined are about 45' long. Makes it harder to back into some campsites with narrow roads and trees.

Totally agree with Bill. Your readings seem high, but we always have to raise the nose when dumping. If we don't, we often have 6-12% left in the tanks (according to our monitors).

As mentioned earlier, we've had 2 RV Lock keyless locks on our 2022. Both failed, one possibly due to water intrusion because Oliver cut the latch hole in the door too big, leaving a gap next to the exterior portion of the lock where water could get in. OTT sent us a replacement and I caulked around it. Even so, the replacement failed after 3 years for unknown reasons, so we gave up on RV Locks. We were just at the Hershey RV Show and met a rep from Global Products Group who showed us their Ultra ES Pro lock. The first thing I noticed was that it was very substantial, all metal construction. It also uses a different handle configuration inside and out. We talked him down to a price we could accept and bought one. I just installed it with no issues. The first thing I noticed was that the exterior portion was larger than the RV Lock, so it covered the gap left in the door by OTT nicely. It also included a large neoprene gasket, which was nice. Installation was easy and it functions well. One interesting note: there is no separate deadbolt. The deadbolt function simply locks the single bolt in place, rather than extending a second bolt. It would still stop someone from jimmying it open, though. The second thing I noticed is significant for us. Even with the striker plate all the way out, our door never latched easily. We had to really slam it to get the RV Lock to engage (perhaps the cause of the demise of lock #2). This latch closes cleanly and easily using the original striker plate. Our sleeping neighbors will be much happier. OTOH, the Bluetooth app for the lock seems glitchy. It has trouble staying paired to my Pixel phone. Not a huge deal for me, but maybe for someone else. Time will tell if this lock holds up. Will update here if things change. Here's an Amazon link: https://a.co/d/0bzR8SDZ

Yep!

I see you opted for the dual awnings. We love ours. Happy travels.

We have a 2022 Elite 2. I don't think the quality of our particular unit is as good as ones from earlier years. Maybe it was the rapid expansion of production due to COVID, or maybe ours was just built on a Monday, can't say, but we've had quite a few issues. OTOH, there are things missing on the current models that we enjoy on ours. We like the rear window that can open, the built-in sound system, the larger freezer in our fridge, the reading lights on both ends of the beds, and a few other details not present on the new units. I don't think we would buy another new Oliver at the current price points. (If we were buying today, we'd be looking at a Wingamm mini-motorhome.)

Press and hold the OK button until it beeps. The display will show the Setting # on the left and its value on the right. Click the Up button until you reach setting 28, then press OK. The value will flash. Use the Up button to change the value (it maxes out at 50, then starts over again). Click OK to confirm the new value. Press and hold ESC to exit settings. (BE CAREFUL NOT TO ACCIDENTLY CHANGE ANY OTHER SETTINGS.)

If you have the Xantrex converter/inverter in your Ollie you can change setting #28 to whatever amps number you want the converter to pull at max. The default is 25 for when hooked up to shore power, but you can make it 15 or less for running off a small generator. I often set mine to 5-10 to prevent my Honda from running at max capacity. Charging is slower, but the generator is much quieter.

Having done it before, I can say that having a marginal tow vehicle is no comparison to having a competent tow vehicle. A bigger truck is safer and more comfortable to tow with. No weight distribution hitch, no worrying about your weights, much more relaxing. If you're buying a new truck anyway, I suggest going for a 2500. You'll probably end up buying one later, anyway.

More info please. Type of batteries? What voltage do you see when you press the Battery button on the SeeLevel monitor? Are you plugged into shore power or running off batteries? Do your interior lights work? Do you have a multimeter?

Doesn't a restrictor just reduce flow? It wouldn't prevent a pressure buildup in the system when water isn't flowing. If that's the case, it won't protect your plumbing if connected to a high pressure source (unless you left a faucet open). But that does describe the behavior perfectly. When we open a faucet, we initially get normal flow (from accumulated pressure), then the flow drops significantly. Also explains why we get normal pump pressure.

@Tom and Doreen, that's what I figured about the pump. Thanks!

We rarely camp with hookups, but when we do, we have low water pressure at the faucets, even if the campground supplies high pressure. No problem when using the tank water and pump. It's been an issue since the trailer was new. We have an inline filter and pressure regulator on the hose but they are providing plenty of pressure entering the trailer, so there's a restriction in the trailer plumbing somewhere. Does incoming city water flow through the water pump, or is it plumbed in downstream from the pump discharge? If it goes through the pump, wondering if I can boost pressure with the pump and tank water.

I was thinking the same thing!

I believe the fuse on the jack post comes with the jack, so it's somewhat redundant. Fuses should always be located as close to the power source as possible. Glad you got it fixed.

My wife mentioned seeing that incident on the FB page. Was a cause ever determined? I gather the overflow line did work. Too much pressure going in? Another reason to always have a pressure regulator on your hose, even when filling the tank.

I put some 303 Protectant on the cover to protect it from the sun. (I put the same stuff on the decals and all the plastic parts of the trailer exposed to the sun.) https://a.co/d/0crxHVph