Steph and Dud B

From what I've been reading about 48V systems they are most effective delivering power to high amperage devices like the A/C, fridge, and induction cooktops. With the heat pump, compressor fridge, and an induction cooktop, would there be any need for propane at all in this new trailer? They do make 48v water heaters with 1000-2000W heating elements. Low amperage devices like lights, USB, etc. are often on 12v circuits powered by a DC to DC voltage converter in a 48v system, so there's no real gain there. (It is possible to get things like 48v lights, but they are more expensive.) I wonder what the boondocking sustainability difference would be between our LE2, which has the 640Ah 12v lithium system, 30# propane tanks, and LP fueled furnace, fridge, water heater and stove vs. this new 48v model set up as all-electric? As it is, we've never gotten below 50% SOC while camping in good sun and our propane lasts for weeks. Fresh water and holding tanks would still be limiting factors with this new trailer. I suppose if you had the composting toilet and were camped in a sunny place that allowed emptying gray water on the ground you could stay virtually as long as your fresh water supply allowed, but that's kind of an edge case for a lot of us. On balance, I see the main advantage of the 48v system over our 12v/propane system being increased A/C run time.

From what I can see, it's a dolled up LE2 hull aiming to attract the overlander crowd. The 48V electrical system is interesting but would make finding accessories, etc. more difficult and more expensive. Will there be a DC to DC converter and 12V circuits for things like lights, USB ports, and 12V outlets?

THOSE are the windows we've been waiting for.

You've inspired me. The drum set's going in! Just gotta get this bass drum through the door... 😁

We use a WeighSafe 3” aluminum drop hitch on our 3500. Nice hitch. (We don't have a WDH but our dually isn't comparable for that part of this discussion.)

I should also note that I was measuring the temperature between the hulls, in the belly by the water intakes. I wish I had placed a third recording thermometer inside the main cabin to see what the difference was between the cabin and the belly.

Here's some data that I found interesting. Our Oliver is mostly stock, with only a little extra Reflectix insulation added to the external basement door. I have a remote thermometer in the Oliver belly, near the fresh and city water inlet lines, and another thermometer hanging inside the garage near the Oliver. I collected data from a week from both thermometers. The was no heat running in the Oliver. You can see that the average temperatures were only different by 1.1 degrees. There was a difference of 38.1 degrees from the highest temperature to the lowest temperature recorded in the garage: and only a 16.3 degree difference recorded in the belly of the trailer: I couldn't tell you if that's any better or worse than any other RV would perform, but those are the numbers from an unheated Oliver sitting in an unheated garage.

The hose is kinking under the sink when you pull it out. Be careful not to pull it out too far. It only just barely reaches our shower holder. I find it best to turn the faucet toward the shower holder before pulling the hose out.

I like the Lithionics. Just updated mine. I do wish the app provided a change log to tell you what the version changes are.

Absolutely, but warranty work is another matter. (And, to be fair, Oliver has an excellent warranty.)

We just returned from our third trip to the factory service center for warranty work and the same problem presented itself again: poor communication. In this case, they were to repair a gelcoat crack near the water heater and do a visual brake inspection. They had the trailer for 2 days. When we arrived at the factory for pickup at 4:30 on the second day I asked the service writer one specific question, "Did you remove the water heater to fix the fiberglass?" I asked this because it had looked to me that the WH would have to come out to address the crack, but the service writer said no, they didn't take out the water heater. Surprised, I double checked, "I don't have to refill my water heater tank?" Again, he said, "No." When we moved to our site for the night, I discovered fresh caulk all around the water heater and an empty WH tank. This is important because, if we had turned our electric water heater on with the tank empty, we would have destroyed the electric heating element. We absolutely should have been told the tank was empty, and if the service writer wasn't sure, he should have checked with the tech. (The tech was smart, though, and did turn off the WH breaker.) Also, I saw the tech's notes on the counter while we were waiting for our paperwork and he noted that we needed new shocks and bushings. I asked the service writer about that, he looked at the notes, and said it "doesn't mean anything." But, when I looked under the trailer later, the bushings were, indeed, badly cracked. Oliver had the trailer for 2 days. I'm surprised they didn't call and ask if I wanted new shocks while it was in their shop waiting for the resin and gelcoat to set. This poor communication at the shop (communication by email/phone before the visit has always been fine) continues a pattern going back to our first warranty trip in 2023. In that case, we went to pick up our trailer after 2 days and found that one of the major items it was in for wasn't even addressed. Overall, we had become so frustrated with service issues that we mailed a letter to Scott Oliver prior to this visit expressing our frustrations and concerns, hoping things would go better this time. We never received a response. Bottom line for us: factory service is hit or miss. We've had some good work there (the fiberglass repair looks great), but there have been serious communications miscues, too. If you need to get service done at the factory, we recommend you keep careful records of all communications and check and verify all work done and everything you're told. Trust but verify.

Some of mine look like that. There's a couple of threads talking about alternatives to the Monroes.

Not if they had the bathroom drain valve closed.

Yes, our new garage has only GFCI protected outlets. We are able to plug our Oliver into them during storage by changing the Xantrex settings (specifically #28 to 15 or less) and it does not trip the GFCI. I think the OP has a bad adapter or faulty GFCI. He also needs to manage his loads in the Oliver before plugging into that 15A circuit via the Xantrex settings.

What are you plugging into? I assume it's a campground 30A receptacle, right? If it's only a household outlet you could easily be overloading it with normal Oliver things like the water heater, fridge, battery charger, etc. But this did happen to us once at a campground. We had a loose connection at the water heater. Don't know why it blew the 30A breaker at the pedestal and not the 20A breaker inside the trailer, but it did. Anyway, check everything mentioned above first. If you don't find anything wrong in the shore power connections as mentioned above try this: while unplugged, turn off every breaker in the Oliver breaker box under the dinette, then try plugging in again. If you blow the pedestal again you've got a short in the cable connections or EMS. If the pedestal breaker didn't blow, turn on the 30A main Oliver breaker. If that's ok, keep turning on Oliver breakers one at a time until you find the one that's tripping the pedestal.

If you extend it, you have a safety net.

Looking at new trailers in the lot at the mother ship. There are 7 of them. 3 have the second awning. Not exactly scientific, but maybe that gives some indication of the overall popularity of the option?

Hello to the Oliver being towed by a black GMC that was behind us on I-81 South in northern Tennessee today! Beautiful travel day.

We love our second awning and use it all the time when camping in Connecticut. We do a lot of dry camping at the beach, where there's plenty of sun for our solar. I often park the trailer oriented north/south and we put one awning out in the morning, then the other out in the afternoon when the sun crosses over the trailer. Gives us shade to sit in all day and keeps the trailer cooler inside. If you plan dry camping frequently in sunny, open spaces, even up north, it might be worth it for you.

Well played, sir!

My headphones keeping dropping the Bluetooth connection. This could be worse. I think I'd install Token Ring safety chains, just in case.

Congratulations and welcome.

Several people have reported that the o-ring was missing where the pre-pump filter screws onto the suction side of the pump. Ours was, and we had problems with losing prime and air in the lines. To check, disconnect the flex water line, then unscrew the filter assembly from the suction side of the pump. Super easy. The o-ring is size 9/16 x 3/4 x 3/32".

Also a late follow-up: Like others, our filter assembly was missing the o-ring where it connects to the pump inlet.

Check your brakes. Extended run time like that can cause damage to the magnets or wiring. Not always, but sometimes.