Steph and Dud B

Hello to the LE2 with green/yellow livery we saw westbound on I-90 near Utica, NY this afternoon!

Darth Vader's RV. Although interesting to look at, I would never own a black RV. They're just not practical on hot, sunny days.

I found WD40 works well to remove VHB adhesive residue.

I find this helpful when selecting wire: https://mgispeedware.com/wire-size-chart/ I also prefer using marine grade wire.

Can't see the photo. Typically the + and - terminals of the batteries are all connected together with short cables, + to +, - to -. One + and one - will also have a large cable leaving them and going off into the trailer body. These are the terminals you'd connect to. Make sure you don't mix them up. Usually red + and black -.

Sure, you can connect an inverter to the main + and - connections on the Oliver batteries (not just one Oliver battery). Just watch your battery consumption.

This mystery has been solved. A tech removed a loose nut from inside the offending wheel drum today. It was a brake backing plate nut, but all the nuts were in place as they should be, so it must have been an extra dropped into the wheel assembly at the Dexter factory. It was intermittent and wasn't found sooner because it would stick to the brake magnet and hide.

If the Xantrex inverter is turned on and the trailer is connected to shore power, the inverter will kick in if shore power goes out. There's even a setting in the Xantrex that controls the delay before power transfers to the inverter. I learned this while researching the various settings. It could be very useful for people with critical electrical equipment.

I was referring to maintenance costs. Pretty much every repair on a diesel is more expensive than on a gasser, largely because the parts tend to be heavier-duty. Oil changes are more expensive, too. More oil, bigger filters. And some have reported issues with the DEF system, but our last diesel was pre-DEF so I can't speak to that personally. We really did need a diesel with our fifth wheel. It was nice using the diesel truck pumps at service plazas and listening to the engine hum along at low RPMs on hills, but the gasser does just fine with our Oliver.

Incidentally, the gas/diesel pendulum for heavy trucks is swinging again. Most new ambulances are gassers now as are many fleet trucks. I just bought a large service truck with a 7.3 gas engine and will say I was impressed. With $10K saved up front, cheaper fuel, and lower maintenance expenses, gas is a contender again.

We're happy with our GMC 3500 crew cab gas dually. The gas engine is perfectly fine with a smaller trailer like an Oliver and doesn't have the DEF system to deal with. Tons of storage space. As for the duals in back... the game was money is no object, so why not! The major downside to us: it has the turning radius of the Queen Mary, so swinging into some sites can be tough.

Hi. My wife and I downsized from a triple slide fifth wheel and now have a twin bed LE2. We find we can fit enough clothes in the trailer for about 2 weeks of warm to moderate temperature travel. A little less if the weather is cold. As for food, the pantry and fridge are big enough for about 2 weeks of food. One thing to note: the new fridges have more fridge space but less freezer space then ours, so you may be more limited on the frozen side. We have the standard black tank. 3 days if you're using it exclusively, but we've gone several weeks by using bathhouses for everything but those early morning/late night calls from Mother Nature. Expect over 2 weeks on the gray tank if using max water saving measures. If using for daily showers, etc., then probably 3 days. You'll need an Andersen WD hitch with your truck and an LE2. We have a lot of stuff in the bed of our truck: Clam, chairs, mats, griddle, table, etc., etc. so watch your cargo weight. We have the Platinum lithium package and love it. It's the saving grace of this trailer. Haven't used our generator for 2 years (we don't use the AC much). We also love our additional street side awning. It's one of our favorite features. Keeps the cabin much cooler and gives you shade all day long. One final word. We may be an outlier but our 2022 Oliver has not been without issues. Some were not Oliver's fault, some are. Most minor, some major. It's a good design using good materials but, in our case, it has certainly not been trouble free. In fact, we have a cosmetic fiberglass issue right now. Maybe we got a bit of a COVID camper, maybe just bad luck, but I want to be honest about that. Thank goodness the Oliver service team is generally exceptional and none of the issues seriously interfered with our plans. We still like our Oliver and find it very comfortable and easy to find sites for.

Glad you're safe and powered again. We used our RV as a lifeboat for over a week after Hurricane Irene. Nice to have that option.

Now I'm back to @Rivernerd's suggestion. Get a multimeter, or someone who knows how to use one, and follow the electricity's path until you find the problem. Test your home outlet, test the power at the end of the shoreline cable, test the power at the back of the shoreline connector in the trailer, test the power at the EMS input, test the power where it enters the circuit breaker box, test the power coming into the GFCI outlet, test at the AC, and keep going down the line. But this means working around live power and knowing how to use the meter correctly. You might be approaching professional assistance territory.

Ok. What about a transfer switch? @Collier and Joan, do you have the optional front shoreline connection by the propane tanks? I think I remember someone saying their EMS only protected power coming through the street side connection. If the EMS was wired between the street side connector and the transfer switch, and the transfer switch was stuck in the front connector position, you would have good power at the EMS but nowhere else. (I don't know why anyone would wire a trailer that way, but you never know... That also doesn't explain the circuit tester readings, but hey...) @Collier and Joan, if you do have the front shoreline connector, have you tried connecting to power there?