John E Davies

If this is a test scenario, why not just install one cheaper 12 volt sealed lead acid DEEP CYCLE battery from Walmart? You can always sell it later on Craigslist, https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mighty-Max-12V-100AH-Battery-for-Solar-Wind-Deep-Cycle-VRLA-12V-24V-48V/179446910?athbdg=L1600&from=/c/[...seo] T105s are way way more labor intensive to maintain and they vent corrosive and explosive gases. You are taking a huge step backwards going from AGMs. I don’t recommend it. John Davies Spokane WA

The new board is lithium “capable”, there is a small slide switch on the board to select Lithium or Lead Acid (same as AGM). That changes the charging profiles (voltages).. John Davies Spokane WA

Tap the wrench with a small hammer to see if it will clear/ break away any paint. FYI you can always strap it down tight in an emergency to get you to service or back home, using heavy bungees or web cargo straps. John Davies Spokane WA

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2094-my-tow-camp-checklist/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2208-overnight-visitor-checklist/ https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2363-how-to-tire-pressure-placard/ After six seasons I no longer refer to any of these, it becomes habit. John Davies Spokane WA

Do you use the trailer while it is parked long term? How do you stow all the small stuff when on the road so it doesn’t rattle to pieces? Are the graphics easily removable? Do you travel with all those huge pillows? It’s indeed very pretty but IMHO it is neither practical nor easy to keep clean when actually camping… Can you please post a link to the pantry bins? And pics of your interior when full of food and clothes? BTW you forgot to tuck the red pull tabs underneath the cushions. They clash, color wise. It might make somebody think that there is an emergency exit hatch underneath. 😉 Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

That is what I was talking about previously, your shelves are identical to mine. Those have to be bent outwards. You can clip those cable ties and then flip over part of the shelves so you can put three 1/2 gal milk bottles in there, resting on the strong glass shelf. That alone will take some load off the steel. A couple of 3 liter plastic juice bottle will fit too. And put drinks in the door… only light stuff up high. I guess we need to add all this stuff to this thread: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/8827-thread-for-isotherm-cruise-130-elegance-2-way-compressor-fridge-the-unit-used-in-2023-models/ John Davies Spokane WA

See the thread, I only had to add a temp sensor. This is wandering off topic. Sorry LeBill! John Davies Spokane W/

No, that is why I am asking if the Oliver installations include it. It was a little less than $200. Installation with the fridge removed at the factory would be a WHOLE lot simpler than having to retrofit it later. Up to 25% energy savings from compressor-efficiency gains Up to 40% energy savings with combined effect of cold-energy surplus stored in food and drinks https://boattest.com/isotherm-intelligent-temperature-control John Davies Spokane WA

FYI, if Isotherm doesn't step forward with a fix, I will probably make new shelves out of heavy gauge aluminum sheet, bent up in front and back for rigidity. There is a fix for this.... John Davies Spokane WA

John Davies Spokane WA

Can you tell me if your Ollie has this Intelligent Control? If so, please PM me with some pictures. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9169-how-to-isotherm-intelligent-control-for-cruise-130-refrigerator/ John Davies Spokane WA

I just installed one, into Hull 218, and the shelves are a disgrace. You need to remove them, bend the side “spring bars” outward (that ride in the grooves), I doubt that they have an actual name, and try to make the shelves straight again. They are much smaller gauge wire than the old Dometic 3 Way, and seem to be made from old wire coat hangers. And they seem to have the same strength, meaning none…. I am not impressed, I really hope a stronger set becomes available. I can’t file a claim with Oliver, but you and other Isotherm owners should. In the mean time try to keep the heavy stuff down low and in the bottom tray. Adding adjustable spring loaded fridge bars, braced against the sides, to keep foodstuff from sliding around should also help. These used to be pairs, I cut them into “singles”. You could also add small plastic clamps to all the shelves, to fix them in place, but I suspect that they would still deform. John Davies Spokane WA

People do this all the time, but please do not join them, it really is a bad idea. Not only is it a violent location, it is filthy and super wet . Not a good location for any kind of powered equipment. I carry a 50 pound ebike (battery removed) on a tray close to the bumper. It’s OK, and when I had my cargo basket there, with two full jerry cans of fuel, it was just OK, but far from ideal. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3263-how-to-move-the-factory-cargo-tray-to-a-rear-rack/ John Davies Spokane WA

This has been discussed countless times, do a search and then come back with any specific questions. We cannot read your mind, you must be more communicative. John Davies Spokane WA

Here is the Removal and Service Notes for the Owners Manual: +Isotherm Cruise 130 2-Way Compressor Refrigerator Removal and Service Notes Hull 218 “Mouse” .pages John Davies Spokane WA

Here is the Refrigerator Removal And Service Notes document I made for the Owners book: +Isotherm Cruise 130 2-Way Compressor Refrigerator Removal and Service Notes Hull 218 “Mouse” .pages John davies Spokane WA

One issue appeared on the first night camping, the display is BRIGHT, it is very much like a small pocket flashlight!: I added four pieces of Post It notes on top to kill the glare, I need to figure out a more elegant solution. I may try some LED Light Dim Stickers that I have used elsewhere inside "Mouse". The advisory sticker is mine, made with my new DYMO LabelManager 420P.;) ECO runs the compressor at slower speeds and tries to save as much battery power as possible. ITC runs it up to full rpms, and also super cools the fridge while on shore power or when getting extra power from the truck when towing. Note the two black dots I added with a Sharpie, they show the location of the two pry points for removing the panel. So far after a five night trip, the system works great. It seems to consume very little power but it is very hard to quantify that. I am hoping that it will be efficient enough that I will not have to add another 100 AH battery to my two existing Battle Born ones. BTW I am pretty sure that Oliver does not install this Intelligent Control with their new Isotherm fridges, can anyone comment about that? If so, I would love to see some pictures! .John Davies Spokane WA

See this related thread for more pics of the wiring: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9168-how-to-install-an-isotherm-cruise-130-2-way-refrigerator-in-an-le2/ Note: West Marine stores typically carry both of those items. Temp sensor wires run straight up the back to the bus bar. All the nylon wire pads are drilled with a stainless #6x1/2” screw added so they will all still be firmly attached fifty years from now, for the tenth Ollie owner. I made a heavy air baffle to direct cool cabin air up to the condenser coils, rather than just having it wander aimlessly around inside the cabinet (there is a huge airspace between fridge and hull, over 6”.) The screws go into threaded nutcerts. "Harness B" is the trailer DC power and ground, and the three original control wires that I extended (brown, green and yellow); from the opposite side of the bus strip, they run down to their three appropriate terminals at the compressor. “Harness C" is the 120 Volt AC shore power wire, coming from the Oliver outlet under the galley sink. "Harness A" is ALL the wiring going down to the compressor, NOT EVER to be disturbed for normal service. Note that I labelled the noise suppressor and also the LED light wires which go down into the fridge cabinet. To remove the fridge, simply unscrew the five Harness B screws, unplug Harness C at the compressor, and clip some cable ties. Out she slides. Or you can leave it all connected for troubleshooting with a volt ohm meter, if you support the fridge on a 7' tall support box. John Davies Spokane WA

Wiring... Hoo boy, this was very bad. Here is the terminal strip as delivered. Black and Red are 12 volts DC negative and positive. It is crowded as can be but secure and neat looking. Here are the two provided adapter cables: It took me 30 minutes to figure out how they went "letter to letter". Initial test run, no smoke, the compressor ran quietly and cooled! It took me less than five seconds to decide that there is no way that sort of Rube Goldberg mess would survive a bumpy trailer ride. I decided to run all the connections up to a bus strip near the top front. Unplugged the old unused thermostat wires (from inside the fridge), secured them and heat shrinked them; Here is the electrical noise suppressor (capacitor), which came apart in my hands as I was inspecting it. Note: You cannot just stick a tiny bare wire into a big crimp connector and expect it to be secure: Soldered it, heat shrinked it, ran the unit up top. This is heavy self-adhesive heat shrink, with the open end crimped with pliers while hot, no moisture can get in: Here is how I made insulated boots for the new 1/4" female spade wire terminals that had to go onto that very crowded terminal strip at the compressor.

Install the sensor inside the fridge cabinet, fortunately on this model the holes are marked by dimples. Drill the center one only all the way through and out the back. The outer two are shallow.: John Davies Spokane WA

I routed the control cable up through the back of the microwave cabinet. This shows the retaining clip, one at each end, you must pry them in gently to remove it. John Davies Spokane WA

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9168-how-to-install-an-isotherm-cruise-130-2-way-refrigerator-in-an-le2/ This looked so easy, and it turned into a can of worms right away.The installation instructions seemed concise, but there were a lot of frustrating errors, omissions and vague statements like "Connect all the lettered wires to each other properly". +Isotherm Intelligent Temperature Control (ITC) BoatTest.com article.pdf John Davies Spokane WA

Pics Installation & operating instructions Isotherm Cruise & Cruise INOX marine refrigerators.pdf

Pics The two vertical gaps were covered with 3M white electrical tape, and the screw heads painted by hand with Testors model enamel.

Pics