John E Davies

Hi everybody, just checking in. I have been offline pretty much permanently. If anyone wants to drop by to chat, my wife Jac and I are on the big grassy tent camping area 100 yards up Park Drive (main road) past the welcome building. Site 74 pitched under a shade tree close to the cable fence. We are staying thru Monday afternoon, but will break camp MONDAY MORNING. We have a reservation at a motel for Monday night. If anybody wants a FREE EUREKA expedition style tent with fly, let me know. Otherwise it is going to Goodwill. We bought it because the Park Gestapo do not permit use of my Maggiolina roof top tent. EDIT I already spoke to Bob and Elizabeth Cox, LE2 Hull 737, Florence Alabama, site 64. They were riding their e-bikes and stopped to say “Are you John Davies?” LOL, I was sitting outside wearing the same hat as in my avatar pic, and they saw a white bug-covered Land Cruiser 200 with WA plates in the nearby lot. I was very surprised, we talked for ten minutes. Regards! John Davies Spokane WA

“Towing with electric vehicles is a fraught conversation even though only a minority of Americans actually use their vehicles for towing on any regular basis. Regardless, it has become a goalpost for EV acceptance in the market for some people. By now, it shouldn't be news that towing with an EV reduces range, just as it does when towing with a combustion-powered vehicle. It shouldn't surprise you, then, that our new Tesla Model Y doesn't go very far when towing a trailer.” 2023 Tesla Model Y Long Range Yearlong Review: How Far Can You Tow With a Tesla? Nothing earth shattering in the article, but they do provide some interesting range figures. John Davies Spokane WA

Nice, a lot of people just cannot fathom how much force 6 gallons of water inside a steel tank can generate when moving on rough surfaces! Mine never failed, but I never towed with hard tires either. What straps did you use? Regular ones? Those have some stretch which in this case is probably not a bad thing to have, but for other applications such as battery tie down straps, you don’t want to have any at all, so you should seek out mil-spec zero stretch webbing. This is excellent, with a footman loop at the bottom on each side, you can position the buckle up top where it is easy to reach and inspect. These straps will stay dead tight, they actually “twang” when you flip one with a finger, very excellent stuff! https://raingler.com/products/blockoff-kit For a lithium battery upgrade, consider adding these to keep them secure and safe. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5356-how-to-fabricate-battery-hold-down-straps-and-anchors/ John Davies Spokane WA

Bump for a OLD thread. John Davies Spokane WA

FYI slightly related topic: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3330-how-to-remove-modify-the-cover-over-the-waste-storage-bay/ Check your clearance the next time you are poking around under the frame. John Davies Spokane WA

We need to understand if the strips were supposed to be glued down to the frame rails, with VHB tape for example, prior to mating the frame to the hull. If that step were omitted, intentionally or by Covid accident, then that could be the root cause of the slippage. Oliver Service will certainly be able to clear that up. If there is indeed supposed to be something binding the strips to the frame or to the hull, then an easy field repair would be applying beads of a good adhesive/ sealer to the edges along the accessible areas. That should suffice to hold everything in place. And it will help to keep road grit out which is very destructive (in the long term) to fiberglass that is under a load, but always flexing a little. It acts just like grinding compound. John Davies Spokane WA

It is not the fiberglass hull that is affected, just its connection to/ interface with the frame. My hunch is that the “forever hull warranty” applies just to the molded part. Have you noticed how old fiberglass boats never die? The attached parts rot off fairly fast, but the hulls themselves stay intact forever, which is a huge problem in terms of recycling. Ollie hulls are also forever parts, which is why they get that great warranty. John Davies Spokane WA

Bump, added a link in the first post to the Oliver Service page about this toilet. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6720-natures-head-compost-toilet-troubleshooting-user-guide/ John Davies Spokane W/

Interesting, I haven’t heard of this problem before. Thanks for posting the pics.., Could you use a big piece of wood, like a 2”x4”, and a hydraulic jack under the fiberglass to very carefully take the load off the rubber to allow you to push it back into place? Also, some soapy water, applied liberally to flush out the dirt, would act as a lubricant to perhaps help them move a little easily. Did you check all the big hull mount nuts to see if any were loose? They do loosen, the ones at the jacks especially, and below the propane compartment... I am having a hard time visualizing a situation where these rubber pads would drift out of place if all other factors were normal. This could just be a visual symptom of another problem that remains to be corrected. I suggest that you file a Service Report - they may have other cases like this, and the extra info might lead to a a new technical bulletin. John Davies Spokane WA

Assuming you are going to reinstall the fridge, maybe use some real insulation like the pink Owens Corning 1” foam board, that is rated R5. I am not sure if regular styrofoam has that high an insulation value. The pink stuff is fire retardant and will not absorb moisture at all. Lots of aluminum HVAC tape will hold it in place and hopefully seal the gaps. The idea is to stop outside air entry. I sure would be reluctant to foam it back like yours is now, with the spray stuff…. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-FOAMULAR-NGX-F-150-1-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-SSE-R-5-XPS-Rigid-Foam-Board-Insulation-20WENGX/315197840 You can also use that board to insulate bare spots like under the bathroom vanity. … https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9039-how-to-bath-sink-compartment-mods-duct-rework-insulation-disconnect-flush-line/ Please start a complete thread on your job, I don’t recall seeing one for the Norcold unit. Good luck! John Davies Spokane WA

They flop around inside the unpainted inner diameter of the axle tube and eventually wear through the insulation. It isn’t anything that you can see without pulling them out completely. If the wires were protected by split loom in there, it would most likely be an OK practice. But not for loose wires… those axles hop around constantly and chafing is the result. Here is one reference. https://www.mortonsonthemove.com/fixing-the-rv-brakes/ John Davies Spokane WA

I have never seen a chart, here is some info claiming 4000 rv fires per year and the absorption fridge is the number 2 cause. https://www.arprv.com/rv-fire-cause-and-prevention.php And this article: FYI, if yours is in great shape, (which I would doubt), installing a Fridge Defend system makes a lot of sense, but it cannot be installed into an early hull Dometic fridge without removing it completely from its compartment. John Davies Spokane WA

Well, I never said that, but use common sense, have a person inside turn on battery power while you watch outside. But seriously, the fridge needs to be inspected by a pro, and that requires it to be removed to the interior of the trailer at least. Don’t discount the fire hazard, many RVs burn to ash from these absorption fridges. Dometic requires that the working parts be inspected ANNUALLY, but the Oliver factory installation is very poor, to say the least, and you cannot even see some of those critical areas with a mirror. The fridge has to be taken out of its cavity for that. John Davies Spokane WA

My guess is an electrical short, most likely triggered by, but not actually caused by your water ingress. You could use an air compressor to blow out the lower area, and apply power again, but I really think it needs to be inspected by a pro. Do not be at all surprised if the fridge is scrap. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/8865-fridge-fires-if-you-have-an-older-hull-you-really-need-to-pull-out-that-fridge-now/ FYI, a how to remove that unit link, some of the pictures show the electrical connections of concern. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9040-how-to-dometic-3-way-fridge-removal-and-demolition/ The entry door and its frame will have to be removed entirely to get the fridge out of the interior, unless you do as I did and dissect the fridge with a power saw… FYI the cooling section is hazmat and cannot be recycled, I paid a local place $75 to take it. If you live in the country, a bullet, fired from a fair distance back, will work well to remove the ammonia, and then you can recycle the remaining scrap steel. (This is comment direct from the guy at the appliance recycler.) A new DC/ AC (2 way) compressor fridge, should you go that direction, should be chosen with care, so that it will go in and out without any further trauma to the doorway. The ones presently being used in new Ollies will fit through the entry with a little care, I believe. Do not quote me. John Davies Spokane WA

Bumping an older thread, look at this one too: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9807-manual-leveler-device/ John Davies Spokane WA

Possible source for a square (aka 4-point) socket, Grainger carries these in various standard SAE sizes, I do NOT know what size the jack driveshaft is, probably metric. If somebody figures this out, please start a new thread about it. My gut feeling is that you won't find 4-point sockets on Amazon... 😉 One from this set might possibly fit: .... Stanley Proto J52109 3/8-inch Drive 5-piece Socket Set- 8-point ... you could return the set at no charge if you don't like it. I researched this years ago, before I eventually decided that the cost effective solution was to just to lengthen the handle shaft. John Davies Spokane WA

DO NOT USE THIS TOOL!!!! *****It will DESTROY the gearbox; with 100% certainty, it will eventually weaken and maybe shatter the teeth! ****** It is intended to loosen tight or frozen hardware like lug nuts. It uses an internal "hammer" to smash the part free. BRRRRRRPPPPPPP! I carry one with my screw gun/ driver for the truck lugs, but I wouldn't ever consider using it to turn a screw (or gear!) of any kind. Video - Inside an Impact Driver in Slow Motion Use a LIGHT duty screwgun Use one of these 1/4" HEX to 3/8" drive socket adapters. Add a 3/8" dr to 1/4" dr adapter if needed for the 4 point or 8-point socket you have. Don't use a hex or 12 point socket, it will damage the shaft! (I don't know the size for this application) Your tool will then have several speeds and a reverse setting too, and it probably won't harm the gearbox. But it might, so use it with great care and with close attention. The problem with hooking any power tool up in a situation like this is that you completely lose any "feel" for what is happening. So IF the gearbox starts to bind up because of an internal fault, you might never notice until YOU break something inside. Always set the tool's clutch to a half way point Screw setting so that it will slip if binding occurs, don't leave it on the Drill/ Lock setting... Those jack gears are very fragile, the reason they can lift your Ollie clear off the ground is due to the high speed motor and very low gearing, not from any inherent strength. The jacks are made from cheap, low grade steel on a Chinese mass production line, and they are assembled with no care whatsoever, but with very great haste 😉 John Davies Spokane WA

You are the one who brought it up by asking me why, publicly. I just clicked that sad button. Anyone here can have an opinion and nobody should try to silence or put down dissenters who don’t toe the line…. John Davies Spokane WA

I think it is a really bad long term policy. I probably would never have bought “Mouse” if the sale were processed through a stick and staple dealer. It is a moot point for me anyway. John Davies Spokane WA

FYI: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6811-how-to-lengthen-your-emergency-jack-handle-so-it-will-fit-the-rear-jacks-with-the-gearbox-removed/ John Davies Spokane WA

BTT, stay safe. On February 11-20, 2021, a historical winter event occurred that set many records, including being the first billion-dollar weather disaster of that year. A deep freeze impacted parts of the continental United States (CONUS), remarkably engulfing the entire state of Texas. John Davies Spokane WA

The problem is “What If” - you should consider the worst case scenario, when you get a shore power failure, or your heater fails, or you run out of propane, then your band-aid solution won’t work, and you might discover that it is too late to winterize. If there is a sudden arctic blast, it becomes literally impossible to drain the tanks because the drain lines and valves are frozen solid…. It can cause seriously expensive damage to your tanks and hull structure. Fix the problem, add insulation and airflow, don’t just correct the symptoms. Are you full timing, and what is your location? Single digit temps this early in the season (not even Winter!) implies far north. Please add some info to your signature. John Davies Spokane WA

Bump, just in time for Winter. John Davies Spokane WA

FYI, a very simple way to keep from freezing your feet and elbows. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9166-how-to-add-extra-thermal-insulation-and-foam-padding-around-the-twin-beds/ John Davies Spokane WA

Liana, you REALLY need to add some additional insulation under the bath vanity to reduce the intense cold for your plumbing there. Your flush toilet water line originates there! My hull 218 had no insulation whatsoever at much of the upper front wall, which is directly exposed to the outside by way of the propane compartment... This kind of mod is not at all difficult, if you aren’t modifying the lines themselves. The standard bubble foil insulation has a very small R Value of 1, compared to R5 for the 1” foamboard, a big, big difference! The board is $20 for a 4’x8’ sheet at the box store. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9039-how-to-bath-sink-compartment-mods-duct-rework-insulation-disconnect-flush-line/ Modifying the heat duct there under the bath sink for some extra airflow is also fairly simply, add an adjustable steel elbow after removing all the excess flex ducting (mine had an additional 48”!) and remove the plastic diffuser plate at the opening. Voila, a much toastier toilet seat and also a warmer wall near that pesky water flush valve… the air flows around the back of the toilet. You HAVE to get extra warm airflow through all the dead end compartments, this means opening existing hatches or doors, or adding more fixed ones (such as inexpensive round 4” heater vents) . The standard Ollie design is very marginal, and a little disappointing for a trailer advertised as “Four Season”. FYI the PEX plastic lines will tolerate freezing to a degree, but the brass fittings and the steel valve may split wide open. If you can’t correct this issue, you must winterize the system. John Davies Spokane WA