Buddhabelly

My error. This is a pic of my Truma and a pic of the temp settng running and a differnt temp gauge so the difference after running for awhile. Was 70 degrees inside and furnace still running. I can turn it off manually but, doesn't turn itself off when it reaches it's temperature. Any suggestions would help...

Sorry for dragging my feet. Pickup our new Oliver in 12/2022 on a new 2023 model. Hull number #1299. Brought it for primarly boondocking. Found out it's not quite high enough on some roads. Went composting toilet since the black tank is so small. Works great. Was towing with 2000 Tundra Limited TRD with 4.7lt engine. Upgraded to 2024 Lexus GX550 since the Tundra was being worked too hard up hills. Hope to be able to keep this trailer for awhile.

Yes, mine is a Truma CP plus. I've tried different temps and it doesn't matter. It justr keeps running past the set temp. i.e.62 and still heating at 72 degrees. Need to turn if off manually. I turned in a service ticket and can't get anywhere with them. They just don't seem to understand what I am saying. Finally gave up along with my AC problem. It you guys that saved my hide on the AC. Forgot, it's a 2021 model Elite 1

Everything seems to work fine except one place and that's the temp control. After I set the temp the furnace keeps running and doesn't turn off when it reaches the temp I set. Never had this issue before. My guess is the temp sensor has gone bad but, I can't seem to find where it's located. I can turn the furnace off manually. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to look and how to check to see if it works correctly?

A big thanks guys. You save me from having to hire a electrican to trouble shoot my issues and repair it. Seems like something that Oliver personal didn't do correctly.

You sure got that right. I own an Ollie and am not happy.

Have an Elite1. First issue is does anyone know where the temp sensor is on a Turma heater control. Once reaching temp the furnace doesn't turn off and keeps hearting the trailer. I can turn it off manually. Second, my surge protector gave me a E2 code which is a Open Ground fault. Checked the outlet at the house and it's OK, tried two different power cables to the trailer and nothing changed. I can't seem to find where the ground to the chassie and wondered if anyone could help me in that area. Can't get any schematics from Oliver or help so I'm on my own.

I have a 2000 Tundra Limited TRD with the 4.7lt V8. I see your in the PNW and them hills are somthing else. My truck has over 250K and still runs perfectly but, going over Stevens really put a strain on the vehicle. I'm towing a Ollie 1 but, by the time you load up the trailer and truck, it start to task the engine. Love my TRD and didn't want to kill it so I just did the next best thing. I went an ordered a Lexus GX550 Overtrail. Has a 100hp advantage over the Tundra and is just alittle shorter. 10 Speed auto really makes for easy towing. Full size Tundra and Sequoia were too big besides, the U.S. made engines are having a quality control issue. Not so with GX.

Since the front of our glass trailer is exposed to road debris from our tow vehicle, I went and had the lower front end of the trailer and front of the frame PPF'd. A good quality one will protect the trailer pretty good. So far is has worked pretty well. I also added mud guards front and back. The PPF can be replaced anytime if it starts to look bad.

Small Ollie with 2024 GX550 Overtrail.

Don't know how many of you have heard about "Salt-A-Way" but, this stuff really work good on salt. Anytime when my trailer incounters salt i.e. salted roads, salt air, I wash the underside of my trailer with Salt-a-way. You can purchase a mixer with the solution. Spray the underbody well and you will not have issues with the alunimun frame or axles. Salt-A-Way neutalized salt. Don't have to rinse. This stuff also work well in removing the salt buildup in natures head urine bottles. I just add some with clean water, let it sit overnight and the salt disolves itself. Rise and you ready to go.

This 3.4lt engine design has been out since 2017 and just recently been turbo'd. Toyota already found the issue and are replacing complete engines under warranty. I've owned Toyota's for over 25 years and are good quality vehicle. I've owned both Ford's and GM's and had the least issues with Toyota's and that why I have on order a GX550 Overtrail coming. Same 3.4lt turbo as the Tundra's. Midsize SUV's are now only 4 or 6 cylingers. Like the torque specs of the 3.4lt I do understand that even though the 3.4 might have more torque output then earlier V8's with less torque, The V8's can deliver their torque for a longer period time without overstressing it's engine. Would love to have a GX550 with a V8 but, it just ain't gonna happen. It's really too bad that U.S. vehicles can't be much better then they are. Would like American made. This is my old Tundra I have to give up since it's doesn't have the beans to pull the hills here around Washington state. ( over the pass )

I was in the automotive business for quite a few years and learned alot about bearings and grease. I also have been boating for over 40 years and dunk my trailer in salt water all the time. Over the years I've learned that China can make quality bearings depending on who manufactures them. I prefer the Japanese bearing because they seem to have the best quality control. Had the least issues with them and got the most life time without on ball going bad first. Mobil I synthetic grease seem to work the best because it's not effected by water and withstand high tempertures with melting. Doesn't mix and look like chocolate milk and lose it lubricating ability. I've been using Mobil I sysnthetic on grease fitting on my vehicles and three trailers and never had a issue with bearing failures. Just my take.

Boondocking in Utah. Unfortionatly we had a lot of rain at the biginning.

O.K. I'm stupid. I just pickup up my Elite 2023 model and I don't know where to find the hull number everybody seems to show. Can't find it on my paperwork.

Hello John, I'm starting in Washington state, going thru Oregon, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, Kansas, Missouri and into Tennessee. Around 5,000miles to get there. Coming back thru Arkansas, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, Oregon and back home to Redmond, Washington. It's a long haul in the winter time.

You can also use Turtle Wax Graphene/Cermaic wax. This stuff works great on the whole trailer and tow vehicle. Best part is it isn't effected by the sun. Won't melt like wax.

Hi John, I'll post a pic of my tow vehicle and trailer when I receive it. It's a 22 year old vehicle and has over 240k miles on it but, she my baby and never left me stranded on the road. I've had numerous parts replaced on the vehicle to make sure I don't have any breakdown. Yep! It's a first generation Toyota Tundra Limited TRD. with mods.

My trailers just started in production. Suppose to get it near the end of November. Just the small Elite because I'm not much for camp grounds. Like boon docking anywhere I like. Anyway, it amazes me the Oliver for it's high price tag doesn't offer any special options. I live here in the Northwest and we have to contend with a lot of mountain passes and hills. I wanted to have disc brakes instead of drums and no way. Have to do the mod's my self. Disc brakes with CarbonCeramic pad would be the ultimate brakes for any travel trailer. Never have to worry about brake fade and life expectancy is awesome. More people should ask for it and maybe Oliver with switch over to disc. Just my two cents worth.