KarenLukens

Hi, I used to be a sales rep at Culligan Water for 8 years. I tested water and sold equipment to solve well water issues for residential customers. If you are concerned about having the most filtered water possible then I would suggest a Reverse Osmosis System that will also include a sediment filter to protect the RO membrane, and will also include a carbon filter to remove VOC's (volatile organic chemicals) and improve taste. You can purchase one with an ultra violet light to kill bacteria, however, the light bulb needs to be kept very clean and replaced often. We use an activated carbon filter between the faucet and the fill line. If you know you will be in a place with dirty or sediment filled water, then having a sediment filter would really come in handy to have on before the activated carbon filter to protect it from coating the carbon and shortening the lifespan of the carbon filter. If you are concerned about fluoride and the best filtered water then the RO system would be best. FYI, With all carbon filters pay attention to the estimated gallon usage because the carbon once gunked up can actually start introducing contaminants back into your water and will reduce your water flow significantly. It's better to replace more often than recommended instead of letting it go too long. They do make portable RV water softener systems to address high hardness problems and alo to treat not to high iron levels. I have never sold or used one for an RV, so I can not address their usage in an RV. Don't fall for any gimmicks to treat hardness such as magnets etc... We carry with us a LIFESAVER Expedition Jerrycan Water Filter (20,000UF) in case of emergencies or disasters. The Lifesaver will allow you to drink from really bad pond water in an emergency if there is some sort of disaster and you need safe drinking and cooking water. We also bought the carbon filter for it too. The LIFESAVER 20000UF jerrycan is a microbiological water filter that uses ultra filtration technology to filter out viruses, bacteria, cysts and parasites from contaminated water sources. Lifesaver technology filters out bacteria to a minimum of Log 6 (99.9999%), viruses to a minimum of Log 4 (99.99%) and cysts to a minimum of Log 3 (99.9%) as specified by NSF Protocol 231, based on recommendations of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). NSF/ANSI standard microbial removal claims are 99.9999% or greater for bacteria, 99.99% or greater for virus, and 99.9% or greater for parasite cysts. I can't address the best way to install filters in you trailer, that is up to you and how you want to proceed. I would definitely run the RO in the basement if you chose that route but realize that it takes a lot of water to create RO filtered water and wouldn't be real efficient if you are boondocking without a water source. Pay attention to the advertised water exchange rates so you are aware. Some, such as Culligan have a 3 to 1 ratio, cheaper versions may have up to 5 to 1. Meaning, for each gallon cleaned and usable, 3 to 5 gallons are wasted and go down the drain or into your gray tank depending on the application. Good luck, Karen Lukens

JFYI, the single step is not an option according to Jason - Jason Essary "Hey Karen, The double step is the only thing we offer. The single step is what we use to install but changed to the double step because it was too high and hard to reach that first step."

I didn't buy the Garmin because it's got some issues and can be difficult to install. Because of the known installation issues $390 sounds fair being that you want it to be wired into your existing nav, in dash? Actually $390 sounds cheap being that they will be working on your tv itself to wire it in. Mine was $275 installed but it's simple plug and play and a simple install with a clear picture guarantee. There are easier units to install out there and as much as I love my Garmin GPS, the BC30 wasn't the one recommended to me -

Right now, I don't think so basically because it would mean changing my tow vehicle over to the Hummer full time, but I do take the trailers off-road a bit, but not in places where needing it any higher really come in to play because that's why I have a trailer instead of a Motor home. I can disconnect the trailer in a nice flatish camping spot and go do what I need to do with out worry of destroying something in or under the trailer. I have no problem going down dirt roads or crossing streams or winching it up steep inclines in the Hummer when needed, but I'm not seeing a need for an extra 4" right now. As far as paying $500 for it, personally it could be an inexpensive $200 option. I would think maybe a 2" lift would be a good option that I would pay extra for but I just don't see a need for a 4" because I'm not out to taking the trailer on the Rubicon Trail :) I have used all of my blocks to get the trailer over a dip in the road once but it was for putting the trailer into the perfect spot and I've dragged it up a hill in 4wd low range but I'm all about keeping my Olli on even ground even if I need to do some shoveling. We move rocks and fix dirt roads as we go but when the woods start coming in on the road to a point that I can't push through, it's time to unhook the trailer before scratching it up for life. If your steps hit and get bent then a porta-power works great for straightening them back out. I had to do this a few times on my Casita because Karen insisted on the double step like in the Olli. I tried to get a single step put into ours and if it becomes a problem, I will change out the double step myself, but over all it sits a lot higher then the Casita and the steps are tucked up inside a lot better, so only time will tell. Reed

Would there be a way to adjust it down level with the counter?

If it's streaking then it's probably getting in between the walls. I would definitely seal it completely - https://www.amazon.com/2-8-Ounce-Silicone-Rubber-Marine-Sealant/dp/B000PSB1VY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1484840675&sr=8-5&keywords=clear+rv+sealant

We added some for resale or for resale value I should say, but then there were some that I just couldn't justify like the on board surge protector; being that the stand alone units, in my opinion are better . There was a long list of options that we couldn't justify; the surge protector, the Voyager back up camera, the extra awning and all of the TV accessories, but we flat out don't watch regular tv and haven't in 20+ years. We each have our computers and Karen is always working on her art projects, but if we decide to get a tv, we're not going to want it over our heads in bed anyway, so out it went, mount and all. I mean I added the generator port, the Hydrolink battery watering system, bike rack and the 30lb propane tanks just for resale value, or for just in case we have an emergency and need to sell it. Then I bought my own back up camera and had the guys install it for me for less then half of the Voyager with better reviews and a larger screen. I mean, it was a no brainer... Voyager wanted way to much $$$ for what they have to offer, so I went with this one that was recommended by a friend - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B25HKU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 Other then that Karen and I built it for ourselves and a lot of options are coming. Has anyone who bought the extra awning really used it? To us, it's the back of the house, so we left it off and I've never had a rear awning on any of our trailers, so there was just no justifying it what so ever for me. We are going over to Little House Customs when we get through on the east coast and have a few more options put on by them but once again, those options are for us. I did go with the Solar because the 100 watt stand alone is just another thing that I don't need to carry in the tv anymore. Out here in California, the Solar will pay for itself quickly because we do a lot of camping in the forest. Reed

Yea, the curved rafter pro looks like a gimmic being that even Fiamma says that the canvas will stretch when it's used in the sun - From their web site - "The Fiamma Rafter Pro is a curved tension rafter to fit Fiamma F45 and F65 awnings which fits from front to back of the awning (from vehicle outwards). The curved Rafter Pro pushes up the centre of the awning fabric which helps eliminate water pooling and noisy flapping of fabric in the wind. The tension Rafter PRO is easy to install without making any holes in the awning. It helps keep the fabric tight plus, it increases clearance of the motorhome doors. The Fiamma Rafter Pro is made of two sturdy anodized aluminium telescopic bars. Ideal for Fiamma awnings with extension up to 250cm, it adapts from min 144cm to max 265cm length. Complete with rubber ends so it can be installed on other awning brands. Important: The awning material can stretch if the Rafter Pro is used for long periods during high temperatures. Therefore please limit usage during hot weather." I don't see a need to carry another rafter when I can drop a leg some. I'm looking at maybe getting just the front or the "Blocker Pro" - http://www.fiammausa.com/products/awnings.asp?fam=A3&page=2 and then building my own sides. I'm going through the learning process anyway, our Olli #200 should be done in a few weeks :)

To me, the magic side bars are great. I would get these either way to secure the edges of the awning during a wind storm, over just using paint poles any day. You could always make something but this is probably the one item that sold me on it over everything else.

From the Fiamma site. Q - Can I use my awning to protect me from the rain? A - Our awnings are designed to shelter you from the sun and not the rain. Therefore we highly recommend closing the awning in case of rain, snow or winds. In case of light to moderate rains, install the center rafter, lower one leg and raise the other to allow for water runoff. If it is raining hard enough for water to pool on the fabric, roll it in! Water pooling can stretch the fabric causing the awning not to close properly. Stretched or damaged fabric due to water pooling or any type of storm damage is not covered under warranty. So they highly highly recommend not leaving it up in the rain... Obviously it's not going to change anything other then you will be dry coming outside :) What happens with the rain is that it will pool on top, in the center of the awning, if it's left unattended and out flat on top. If the awning is left out without the center brace in and the water is allowed to pool on the awning, the pool will grow as the awning will start sagging deeper in the center to create it. The more the water, the more the sagging until you can actually have a deep pool of water up on top that can block the front door. So caution needs to be used in the rain and the center bar must be used along with one of the legs being shortened to increase the angle of the awning so that no rain can start pooling. I have seen more then 1 awning stretched out and ruined from water but these were caused by unforeseen circumstances. Once the water starts pooling, you need to have a ladder to bail it out if the pool is to big and heavy to push out... How do I know this? My son took his friends down to spend the weekend in my motor home years ago, and not being responsible, he put the awning out and left it when they were done. It rained hard that week and when I went down there to check on everything a few weeks later, I had a new bathtub, where my awning used to be. Once the water starts collecting in the center, all water flows to it as the rain continues... I couldn't even open the door and there was a few hundred pounds of water on top. It was amazing to see just how far the awning could stretch without pulling itself out of the mounts... Anyway, this was an extreme example for my son to learn and the awning never did roll back in after that. I learned my lesson as well because he later told me that he had lost his keys and that it had been him that broke a window to get in that day... I sure am glad that kids grow up :)

Holding the 7 pin connector in place is what this is for - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BUQOAY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=DVETVI1ZF5E8&coliid=I3O4GK5QN3L5SH

Wow! A Caframo fan to, very good idea :) Do you like the fan and how it works?

We had ours start November 28th. My wife will make the 200 into a smiley face or something :) It is a great number. Reed

I really enjoy the auto cruise that adjusts to the speed of the people ahead of you and then you set the distance behind for yourself. My tv basically drives itself, so if I'm distracted by something, it's making moves on its own to keep me on the road, between the lines or 50' behind the vehicle ahead of me. I've let it stop us at stop lights and then restart again on its own just for fun. It's a little fast at take off from a stop light and I do prefer driving my self but for a car driving itself, it's all good... :)

Anita just called and told us that our "Little Nugget" has hatched and we are officially the proud parents of Hull #200 :) We can't wait to head East in a couple weeks when she is ready and we can pick her up :)

Unfortunately the EPA itself is on the take... They've done their best to ruin the lives of many people especially in the coal industry of late. Then there's the spill that they caused and tried to pass the blame off on others. The EPA simply follows the money these days, not the law. http://www.redstate.com/mickeywhite2/2017/01/07/epa-investigates-epa-finds-fault-colorado-mine-spill/?utm_source=rsmorningbriefing&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=nl

That's great info. We almost walked out with a new Ram this year but at the last minute decided that it wan't comfortable enough for the passenger with the uneven floor they designed with the transfer case sticking up in most of it... You're right foot sits flat but your fighting the hill with the left... Really poor design for the passenger. So our next purchase will probably be the Ford. I really like the eco-diesel motors and have one in our Mercedes ML tv. Plenty of power and great mileage. We're getting 22mpg normally and 19.5mpg towing and there's no loss of power anytime no matter how steep the hills. But... I need a new snow plow because my old 76 crew cab chevy/ snow plow just sits there these days because it's feeling the years...

There's 2 types of grease guns, the tube style and the pump style, both look & work the same but with the pump fill style, you pump the grease from a barrel into it usually, this is what I have also and it can be hand packed but it's not needed. If you use a lot of grease, then buying it in 5 to 15 gallon barrels is way cheaper then buying the individual tubes.

I really like seeing the circuit before I plug the trailer in, so I went with a regular plug in style surge protector. There's a bunch of brands but you can't beat the price on this one - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JGJH8QU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=DVETVI1ZF5E8&coliid=IEQRWJQ65XFVP but many of the hook ups have doors on them and the ones with a short hog leg allow you to close the door in the rain. This puts the connection outside but it keeps the water from getting into the main circuit - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015G2YYN0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=DVETVI1ZF5E8&coliid=I93WIN41CDMPD&psc=1 Another thing I really like that they give out on the Casita's are these Multi Clamps- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BUQOAY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=DVETVI1ZF5E8&coliid=I3O4GK5QN3L5SH they insure that your 7 pin connector stays connected because it clamps the lid to the connector so that there's no way for it to bounce out on the road. I always like carrying a few of these because it's such an easy thing to store and you can instantly use it for lots of things. If you're going to be boondocking a lot, then a couple 12vdc plugs mounted above where your head is going to be makes it easy to plug in tablet's CPAP's, etc... We had them add both ac and dc outlets above both heads of the bed for each of us. Best Wishes and have Fun!! :) Reed

Thanks Mike & Geri for todays pics of our new Olli in the making :)

Hello everyone, As the admins of the Facebook group in question, We would like to clarify that we are not trying to build up a database of owners that are not in our group. We DO NOT want your name, hull or permission for the Facebook group. Though J-Rhett means well and is excited to be a part of the Oliver family, he is not an admin in the Facebook group and we have not requested any such information to be solicited in this forum. This forum is and will always be the main go to source for all thing Ollie. Our group is a social group period and is not trying to compete with the official Oliver forum in any way. Please accept our apologies if anyone was offended by this well meant but inappropriate post by sweet J-Rhett. If possible, maybe an admin in this forum could delete this thread as it is inappropriate to be requesting info of the members of this forum. Thank you, Reed & Karen Lukens

I want to buy a one burner for boiling water for coffee, tea, pasta etc...outside. It's extremely quick and won't fill my trailer full of moisture. Because of the inconsistency of the low end burners that's all they are good for. It's small enough to store in a drawer when not in use. I'm not looking to cook dinner on one so I don't need a high end, expensive one. So for me, it will be perfect for what I need it for. This is the one I plan on buying and it has bery good reviews. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00GMCAM2G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=DVETVI1ZF5E8&coliid=IFZHQQNA9Y205 Karen Lukens

Thanks for all of the great info guys :) Basically I'm thinking of a living room, we have an outdoor carpet, tarp, chairs, tables and a heater. I have a screen tent and a Dining tent but the difference between this and a Clam or whatever is this will be a added room connected to the trailer. You come out the door of Olli into your living room. We do a lot of camping and have some really nice living conditions set up when at our mining claim. But this would be an extra room for those rainy days. It's going to be an aftermarket purchase either way because in our Casita we put a queen size mattress in and left it up full time. In a couple weeks we will be finding out if the bed is comfortable enough for us as is; but if not, we still have a complete bed and shelving set up to put into the Olli if we decide to go that route. If we do, then a huge living room connected to the trailer would be worth the extra money to us. The thing is, I can buy the canvas and make our own as well but it won't look as nice and that's why we're leaning towards the Fiamma.

Just as a side note, you can make your own side awning poles out of telescoping paint poles. I think that the friction style shower rods will work also. I have them both in the Oliver Amazon wish / accessories list - https://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/DVETVI1ZF5E8/ref=nav_wishlist_lists_2

I can't seem to find any comparison on the different greases, this is what I have - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CHV0/238011C/N2421.oap?ck=Search_N2421_-1_-1&pt=N2421&ppt=C0139 and I've used it for years. We bought it in 15 gallon barrels and I just don't see the difference myself other then this is a little cheaper in price. Ok, I looked for the manufacturer of the Dexter grease and up popped this pdf, check it out, it tells the different greases that Dexter recommends. Mine made the list after all... It's what I've used forever on my tractors, which is why I asked. I'll do some more digging because there's a good chance that it looks to be made by a company that labels and sells it to different people. - http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/Service_Resources/Bearing_Lubrication_Chart.pdf