Isotherm Refrigerator - What are we doing wrong?

[SeaDawg]

@rich.dev, I've wondered the same, as you see above.

Our danfoss/secop fridge was a retrofit.

We installed extra insulation on sides and top of the cavity, still leaving lots of air circulation  space, plus a drawer beneath. Our fridge sits on epoxy tabbed in 2x 3's, above a drawer. We also have air infiltration on the sides. I can, and do , open the drawer many times a day, and could leave it ajar a bit for a ton of extra air, if necessary. 

I "think" if the standard ollie installed requires more lower air, there's usually an access from beneath the drawers. Open it up, and see how/if it helps.

The fridge cavity used to be sealed, for three ways needs. N9 longer necessary. 

We did seal the outside vents, to prevent intrusion from dust/dirt/ mud daubers,etc. 

Edited July 8 by SeaDawg

[SeaDawg]

13 hours ago, Mike and Jill said:

@DunnYet We also have the isotherm fridge in our 2023 LE 2, and have had problems with interior temps running warmer than we like for food safety (upper 40s). What I found out is that we have to defrost our fridge every week to two week. After defrosting our temps will even out within the fridge compartment , Then as it starts to build frost on the freezer coil our temps will remain cooler on the upper shelf (38) and but start to rise to almost 10 degrees warmer in the food tray at the bottom (45-47). This is with the thermostat set on 4 to 5, the plastic tray below the freezer removed,  and we do not currently have an interior fan within the fridge. So, hopefully this help a little.

That little plastic tray under the freezer is a drip try. There is no condensate tube (at least not in mine.) It should be checked every day or two, and dumped. 

Defrosting is required in mine every week to 20 days, depending on humidity, and how many times a day the door is opened.

I don't find defrosting to be a huge pain. I do it the day before grocery shopping. Turn off fridge.  Empty contents into a cooler. Cover cooler, and shove it down the aisle. I have an old Tupperware "bread saver" that I full with warm/hottish water. Stick it in the freezer. Put the veggie bin up on the top shelf, put a towel on the shelf below. Depending on ice buildup, maybe replace water in the Tupperware once or twice. 

A microwave towel to wipe interior a few times, a dump of the veggie bin, and usually in 15 to 20 minutes, max, my fridge is ready to load.

45 in the veggie bin is actually good for many veggies. I got rid of the glass shelf. I have wire shelves everywhere. 

Don't hang too much heavy stuff on the door. Check seals. Dollar bill test. I routinely push in on the bottom frer corner when I close the door. A tight seal every time means less air intrusion,  less frost buildup.

I have a mental map of fridge contents. My husband is not allowed to open the door, leave it hanging open, and search. I'd rather get it for him. (Same at home.)

 

Edited July 8 by SeaDawg

[Ronbrink]

@SeaDawg, I’m liken’ my 3-way Norcold more and more!

[rich.dev]

12 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

I "think" if the standard ollie installed requires more lower air, there's usually an access from beneath the drawers. Open it up, and see how/if it helps.

This access point?

[SeaDawg]

5 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

@SeaDawg, I’m liken’ my 3-way Norcold more and more!

I used to have to do the same defrosting with my Norcold 3way. It just took longer, with the bigger freezer. 🙂

I liked mine, too, til it didn't work. 

Edited July 8 by SeaDawg

[SeaDawg]

3 hours ago, rich.dev said:

This access point?

If that gives air movement to the fridge cavity, yes, I think it might help.