Ronbrink

I totally get it! Even though my former TV was only a short bed with a topper, I was constantly bumping my head, bruising my arms and crawling on my old knees while rigorously digging around to retrieve stowed and/or staged camping equipment. Often wished for a longer bed, but then that would only exasperate the matter. Breaking camp was a whole other issue with more bumping, bruising and crawling! On the other hand however, there was comfort in knowing all was secured and protected under cap. Enter my current TV, a cargo van; best of both worlds!

I too like using added protection at the power pole; not only an instant analysis of the CG’s electrical grid upon arrival and potential wiring faults at my particular campsite, but also more joules surge protection if a problem with the grid arises during a stay. Yes redundant, but cheap insurance put to good use before ever plugging in my Oliver’s power cord! This is what I have:

Apply dielectric grease to each inside contact as a corrosion preventative, as well as the outside female plug.

I apply sparingly and never had that issue. It is a push and tug to put on and take off, respectively; as in air compression and suction actions!

There is a touch sensitive control button in the center; touch to change colors, long touch to increase/decrease lighting. Can also be turned on/off by Master light switch to last setting(s). Simple install; a little larger diameter, but mounting holes were same. First install was above dinette, this second above the cooktop. I plan to install additional lights above each bed, over sink and maybe in wet bath under cabinet.

All this talk about touch lights and replacements made me reconsider making do with the stock fixtures. Currently installing two early arrivals and with one done, very pleased! I’ve always considered the lights to be too bright, especially over the dinette; sensitive eyes. Thinking that problem may be solved with these ones, dimmable cool white with a blue night light/ambiance feature. What think you?

I like that it is colorless, so no staining of clothes; to @jd1923’s point, use a ball cover! I like the CURT brand; standard 1-7/8” to 2” or 2-5/16” diameter ball sizes. I’m also a fan of the Mission Automotive dielectric grease, which I need more of when back in stock.

I’ve always made it a practice to pre-chill the CFX prior to loading content, which are usually pre-chilled, as well, if time allows.

My preference:

Actually, a solenoid was installed to trigger power to my suspension air-bag pump when the engine is on. The DC-DC is only powered with the key in ACC ( to power my VIAR) or ignition (engine run) positions. I do know that these Dometics have a staged built-in battery protection system to prevent complete draining of the vehicle’s starter battery. The limit of draw can be set and can allow for deep draw on dual batteries, as I recall.

I use the forward AC outlet installed at the front of the propane housing, and simply run an extension into the van to the Dometic’s AC cord to power via the inverter/battery bank when underway; not during inclement weather, of course. When staged in camp, same setup with shore power. When leaving camp, the extension is unplugged and my 100ah LFP portable power station is then used, which can run the Dometic over 30 hrs without solar input. I modified the DC cord by replacing the cigarette lighter plug with a 2-pin power connector, much more secure connection! My former TV had a dedicated 200W solar array on the bed cap for the power station; installing a larger array on the van is my plan when time allows (you know the gig!). I have a Victron 30A smart charger to maintain the power station, as needed. As a backup, I made a 12V extension that plugs into the rear DC-DC Anderson port to connect to the Dometic’s DC cord.

No, at least not on my model. The CFX manual specifies either a DC OR AC connection, as well as the CFX3 per this screenshot: Check your CFX5 manual, but I would be surprised if they are any different.

Actually Gree, not Cree:

When I had metal valve stems put on my trailer, Discount Tire used the jack points and commented it was the first trailer they ever saw with a designated spot to lift. Further comment was they wished all trailers had them, made their job much more easy.

Our Oliver has been an escape pod for two hurricane evacuations and a winter storm retreat when power was out for several days. Times like these is when our COW (Condo-On-Wheels) and the Westinghouse iGen4500DF are put to good use in survival mode!

I feel your pain! I made the novice mistake of using the rear stabilizers to lift all four tires off the ground to level the trailer for a night’s stay, still connected to the TV. Slept great, other than being awakened once to a loud thud. When getting ready to depart, the realization hit me like a ton of bricks. All four shackles had flipped at the Dexter E-Z Flex equalizers, no bueno! With jack in hand and hours later, toiling in the Texas summer heat, all was back to normal. We learn by our mistakes and that of others.

‘Very entertaining the squabbles they are’, as Yoda may have said it!

I bought my Rapid Jack prior to taking Oliver ownership and soon learned afterwards about the shackle flip issue. I’ve since had opportunities to try it out, but the stabilizer jacks were less troublesome and thus, the preferred method for lift to change a tire. Not one to let good money go to waste, started using it for the front stabilizer support.

Good choice, I’ve been very pleased with my 75L DZ model. You may already be aware that Dometic offers a protective cover for some of their units; good way to protect an investment and potentially improve efficiency. Claim to be good for outdoor use, as in weather durable and waterproof; however not leakproof at the handles and other cutouts. Furthermore, I drape a neoprene mat over the top for added protection/insulation and even installed an inner lining of Reflectix for good measure.

I think you are referring to the Anderson Rapid Jack. Although it is primarily designed for changing a tire on a tandem axle trailer, I use it as a block at the front stabilizer, as well as two of the Anderson Jack Blocks at the rear stabilizers.

Yep, I carry two!

My hoist is a basic Ultra-Tow 1000# capacity hydraulic truck crane from Northern Tool, to which I added a strap hand crank winch and modified the arm end with rollers for ease of lifting. I think a strap, rather than wire rope, would serve you better; less abrasive and more user friendly. Whether looping around the handles on my 75L Dometic DZ cooler fully loaded, frames of our expensive ebikes, handle/valve guards on 30# propane tanks or the plastic molded generator handles; worry of marring is completely eliminated. However, lifting straps could be used in conjunction with a wire rope setup, and that product you linked may meet needs you have other than just camping. Proper reach from the truck bed to a point directly over the propane tank housing is important, but the post height could definitely be reduced, as you eluded. No regrets installing my hoist within months after Oliver ownership, its been a real back saver! And now it is proving to be even more useful in lifting the cargo boxes in and out of the Savana van. Here’s a few pics to ponder:

This is a slow progression, but my design-as-I-go method of doing things usually works to my favor. Each of the swing racks will have dual articulation to provide adequate clearance to enable the rear cargo doors to fully open. Here are some pics of the two primary pivot and arm assemblies. Awaiting delivery of additional supplies to further fabrication of secondary components. Standby! To anybody having the patience or curiosity to continue tracking this build, you are appreciated. I’m aware this may be beyond scope of the forum, and even though such tow vehicle mods are oftentimes of personal and individual importance, they should be shared in interest of others.

Texas heat management! I also place a fan on the platform and a cold drink in the cup holder. This side tray is very handy for staging supplies and equipment.

It definitely helps to have the space to keep the scaffold nearby and fully assembled for immediate use. To @Patriot’s point, they are heavy and can otherwise be cumbersome to store and setup, as needed. The locking rollers that come with the MetalTech work great for moving and positioning.