Ronbrink

I originally ordered the ‘Black Samba’ fiber-granite for our 2020 OLEll and also opted for the Lagun table in matching color. The Lagun table was only offered with the twin bed floor plan and was factory-mounted on the front of the nightstand, which blocked the nightstand drawer when in place (see pic). I kept the Lagun table permanently mounted even though it hindered access to the nightstand drawer and overhead attic. After a few years I decided to reconfigure the Lagun mount and add a second bed table for independent use by each of us. However, upon contacting Oliver to purchase another ‘Black Samba’ Lagun tabletop I was told that color was discontinued. I ended up buying two in a contrasting gray color that closely matched the vinyl flooring, ‘Monte Blanc’ fiber-granite. After developing a sliding mount and installing the two new Lagun tables, I decided to make use of the original Lagun tabletop by replacing and extending the pantry countertop. The original pantry countertop was then used to extend the dinette table. I previously stated that heavy duty Velcro was used to secure the extended countertop, but 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener was actually the product used, Velcro on steroids! Original pantry countertop used to extend the dinette table.

Did you keep the original 2” ball size or upgrade that, as well?

Same here! My pantry shelf mod involved extending it out to make it even with the adjacent twin bed with heavy duty Velcro for securement. The additional length provides more counter space/staging area. I also extended the dinette table an additional 7” for an equivalent bump out; making its utility for dining much better. I previously installed sliding Lagun tables for each of the twin beds and used the original Lagun tabletop for the pantry extension, likewise the original pantry shelf for the dinette table extension. We’ve been very pleased with these mods. Here’s a pic of the two Lagun tables, a much more challenging mod I must say! For those that have the Lagun option, you know the nightstand drawer is restricted when this table is in use. In my year model the nightstand tabletop can be lifted off, allowing access to the drawer content from atop; which was acceptable, since I preferred the leave the Lagun mounted for daily use and stowing it was a PITA. By design, I can now open the drawer even with both Laguns permanently mounted; and the wifey is now happy to have her own bed table, being I tended to ‘hog’ the original one for self use! There have been a few mods featured in this forum on relocating the Lagun mount to the side of the nightstand to enable front drawer access and my mod, as well.

Excellent point! As others and self, the best position with the three-way is having fans in the upper vent whereby the fans blow outward and thus, pull air upward and out.

I remember when we still had the DPll, cabin humidity reaching 80-90% some nights with the a/c running on low; contributed by the a/c, as well as our respiration. The dehumidifier we had at the time could not compensate for the excessive moisture. As you know the Atmos is much quieter and efficient in cooling, but it also handles excessive moisture much better with dedicated modes. And then with the Cielo Breez Max thermostat addition, humidity spikes are a thing of the past.

It will be of interest to eventually learn how the Chill Cube handles cabin humidity in very hot climates with high RH. A cabin temp of 76° can be comfortable only if interior humidity is kept below 50%. Perhaps some other ‘Chill Cuber’ can share their experiences regarding this matter. @jd1923, your test results are very impressive!

The Obeaming model I installed doesn’t have a physical button, but rather a center touch feature for on/off, as well as dimming and color selection. Wiring in my instance was simple; black to black, white to white. The wires were crimped and taped in my installation. I was pleased to find the overhead cabinets had routed channels to better conceal the wiring. Although the rivet holes matched these new lights, I choose to use screws rather than rivets; a piece of wood skewer was snapped off in each hole as filler for screw securement. I also decided to replace all of the former touch lights to forego any further issues. I’ve throughly enjoyed these lights for the past year and very pleased with the added ambiance of the blue color. They also operate as Tom @Tom and Doreen describes with “memory” when using the master power switch.

I don’t think of it as a ‘gap’, but rather just a recess where the vinyl flooring meets the curved fiberglass walls. Regardless, grit and grime collects along these edges and must be periodically cleaned!

I have two sets of Flag Pole Buddy suction cup mounts; one with black cups for the flagpole, one with white cups for the SLM pole. Neither leave a lasting mark on the Oliver’s gelcoat once removed and surface wiped clean. Could be that they use synthetic rubber compounds specially formulated for a non-marring grip on RV fiberglass surfaces; unlike the typical natural rubber that does leave a mark (think black streak issues we all battle)! Been using 303 Aerospace Protectant for years on a skiff and many suggest this conditioner be applied to keep rubber cups soft and pliable for a better seal and UV protection.

Did this yesterday on a dual tank regulator used for a commercial grade griddle, which I modeled after the setup on the Oliver. I tapped several times gently with the handle of a crescent wrench in a few locations and viola, the fuel level indicator started working! It’s also important to open propane tank valves very slowly to keep from tripping the internal safety device that could shut off gas flow.

My take, this Casita measures 24’ 3” tongue to bumper, an Oliver 23’ 6”; starting prices $44,999 and $85,000, respectively! The Casita can sleep up to six and thus, better suited for families whereas the Oliver is more of a couples unit. Thanks for sharing!

I experienced the same issue with that swing arm circuit breaker you mentioned; loose of DC power for no apparent reason. Researched and learned the cheap breaker was notorious for tripping so replaced with a quality Blue Sea Systems circuit breaker, problem solved!

That’s our preference, as well. However, I choose to replace the four 6v Trojan T-105 225Ah batteries with LFPs three years ago for the specific purpose of being able to run the air conditioner off the house batteries. In doing so, lost half the weight and gained double the usable Ahs. When in transit to and from a destination and making stops along the way to rest, eat meals, shop, and do unplanned repairs and maintenance; I find comfort in a ‘cool retreat’ at these times. I can even pre-cool the Oliver prior to a planned stop, as deemed necessary. As @jd1923 emphasized, the DC-DC charger will quickly bring the house batteries to a respectable SOC upon arrival at a destination. This is how we roll and very pleased with the LFP upgrade.

On my 2020 OLEll the microwave is plugged directing into the GFCI outlet located on the Xantrex inverter/charger. It trips occasionally for unknown reason(s) and the first place I go when power is lost. Upon reset an operable microwave indicates AC throughout the unit.

I first vacuum then simply crawl around on my knees and use Clorox disinfecting wipes along these dirty edges. Sometimes it takes pressure with the wadded up wipes, but with persistence they become clean. While down I also use the wipes to ‘mop’ the floor, which is generally done with a Swifter mop. But the Swifter alone will leave debris and grunge along the edges and thus, periodic deep clean with said wipes is needed. That said, I’m lucky to only have a couple spots of the adhesive visible below the shower door, which is only slightly yellowish in appearance and not a worry. I like @topgun2’s acetone idea, but only for the adhesive removal if it eventually becomes too unsightly.

Many have secured the Norcold AC plug to duplex outlet under the sink with a tie-wrap and perhaps same could be done with the charger plug, as well. However, that may not be as easy due to the ‘snap in’ feature of that inlet, as described. Perhaps the “10-12” unsupported run of power cord” could be secured with a tie-wrap in such a manner as to better secure that connection. In looking at my 2020 OLEll, it appears to be hardwired into the AC panel box with a typical clamp style strain relief fastener and likely hardwired to a main breaker.

Check the connections going into the back of the DC panel under the rear dinette seat. I had a similar problem and found a spade connector loose. A little crimp for a tighter fit of the red power wire was the solution.

Having the condensate collect in pans in the DPll and drain via the inner hull tube Oliver installs is not without issue. Many have experienced, self included, condensate water dripping inside the cabin either from drain line blockage, improper leveling on setup or excessive humidity conditions. I have no regrets abandoning the tube drain with my chosen a/c replacement and no further worry of internal leakage. Just say’n!

In humid climates there will be more than just a little drip, but being slightly off level as you suggest will divert any runoff to a rear corner. Even though condensate is like distilled water, be assured there will be some staining from contaminants it picks up as it leaves the condenser and drains outward. Maintaining adequate wax on the gelcoat will help reduce said staining and further cleanup of any resulting streaks.

Most U-Haul trailers have a 4-pin cable since they have surge brakes rather than electric brakes. Will that matter in the pull test you are suggesting?

Understood, valid concern; much the same forces from dragging the frame on the pavement, but perhaps with less resistance. I would suggest the OP contact Oliver for their take on the matter. Another solution may be to lower the hitch ball and thus, raise the rear a bit for better clearance prior to backing up or driving down a steep drive. Just a thought.

I have seen videos where skid rollers are mounted at the rear of a travel trailer to keep the bumper/under carriage from scraping on steep driveways or road grades; check out etrailer.com for such products. I welded some on a skid plate that’s mounted on the front of my TV to protect the expensive ebike rack, works great!

I installed Obeaming touch lights and been very pleased, they are dimmable to your desired level of eye comfort and ambiance. I posted the install on this forum. Here’s a few pics:

I had this happen and found that one of the spade connections at the pump had come loose. I crimped the spade connection for a tighter fit, reinstalled, all good. A few others have experienced this, as well; simple fix!

I have been using the Cielo Breez Max smart thermostat for almost a year with no apparent issues, nor have I read any negative reports from other users (Oliver, as well as SOB owners) regarding potential harm to their RV air conditioners. Some have expressed concern with the power ON/OFF attribute of the Cielo and inherent longterm harm to electrical control and mechanical components. Proper configuration of settings to prevent ‘short cycling’ is paramount in avoiding said harm, whereby the compressor is allowed time to equalize refrigerant pressures and thus, significantly lessen subsequent strain on sensitive equipment. I’m of the opinion 1) that Cielo has built in scheduling features by default to provide for necessary delays between compressor cycles, as do most RV thermostats, and 2) the soft start device pairs well with the Cielo to further lessen any longterm concerns I may have. I can honestly say that the Cielo has completely resolved the ‘humidity spike’ issues once experienced and exceeds my expectations as a replacement thermostat in our Oliver.