Waste Valves Restoration and Upgrade

[rideadeuce]

Just talked with both Sharyl’s at Drainmaster.com, very helpful and knowledgeable. Sent them some pics/links and they think all 3 valves will fit. So I just ordered the bundle plus a 1-1/2 in reducer for the grey cutoff and a main cutoff switch. I won’t be back in town for a few weeks but sure look forward to the installation. 

Best, 

Mike 

Edited Wednesday at 10:58 PM by rideadeuce

[rich.dev]

22 minutes ago, rideadeuce said:

Just talked with both Sheryl’s at Drainmaster.com. Sent them a bunch of pics and they think all 3 valves will work. So just ordered the bundle plus 1 1/2 in reducer for grey cutoff.

Mike, I see there’s 4 options for the drain master 3 valve tank kits, 6029, 6014, 6023 and 6022, which one did you order? 

[rideadeuce]

I believe the bundle is 6008 but what they told me to do was if you want the ability to control inside and outside order the double S3VT kit with interior and exterior panels. Ext is waterproof. Then order a single kit with just an interior switch for the grey cutoff plus the added reducer they sell. Hope that helps. Give me a min and I will upload the parts list on my invoice. 
Here it is:

I added a few extra things that I wanted to try. 
M

Edited Wednesday at 07:38 PM by rideadeuce

[jd1923]

Mike @rideadeuce, I'll be looking forward to seeing your installation. As I did, you will likely have to remove your Victron MP2 from the streetside bed area to get to the gray waste valve underneath. The front dinette is much easier to work in, but they had my 1 1/2" gray valve installed right on top of the black waste valve and I had to rework the plumbing to give the new powered valve enough room. Hopefully they installed yours better. Every hull was a one-off back in the day!

[rideadeuce]

On 5/28/2025 at 6:01 PM, Ronbrink said:

I generally keep it attached to the discharge pipe with the end valve closed; makes it easy to see if there is a valve leak from either holding tank, think no surprises! 

 

Curious if you have the vent installed to allow air in when extending the hose with the terminal end closed. I would prefer not to use it if not really needed but my hope with the new system is to keep it always connected. Figured with the electronic black valve closed, I could always just crack the distal end open enough to extend, etc. What has your experience been. 

Edited 11 hours ago by rideadeuce

[Ronbrink]

7 hours ago, rideadeuce said:

Curious if you have the vent installed to allow air in when extending or compressing the hose with the terminal end closed. I would prefer not to use it if not really needed but my hope with the new system is to keep it always connected. Figured with the electronic black valve closed, I could always just crack the distal end open enough to stow, etc. What has your experience been. 

No vent assembly kit installed. I don’t keep the hose connected because it’s a tight fit when the bumper gate is closed; the bend in the hose is subject to rubbing on the gate, which could eventually cause a hole or tear. I was using the provided cam lock plug to seal the discharge pipe, but had some seepage when removed once; I then tapped a fitting into it to attach the clear silicone tube for previously described purposes. The plug fitted with a threaded hose connection can be bought, but I choose to convert mine. Since the hose is collapsed when stowed, once connected to the discharge pipe the terminal valve has to be cracked to enable air intake to facilitate extension. Stowing is not a problem, since it is disconnected from the discharge pipe and given a final clean water rinse before collapsing. 

[jd1923]

4 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

I don’t keep the hose connected

I always keeps ours connected. Truly dislike that movement, of craning my neck or leaning to get under things! Reaching in there at each dump station, no. Same reason I have 6” extensions on our water hoses, easy to reach.

Bought a RhinoEXTREME from a suggestion here on another thread. Returned it immediately when found it would not compress like the RhinoFLEX we use instead.

I mounted a 6” clear section for viewing and drain elbow at end. I sawed the elbow part flat so it fits easily into the Oliver bumper. Don’t use an end cap, so no vacuum effect when pulling or compressing the hose.

Pull it out and place it in sewer opening, open then later close valves, lift the hose from bumper to end to drain 98% if the water leaving only a few OZs of water on the ground behind, and close the bumper. No fuss, just quick and simple..