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Everything posted by rideadeuce

  1. The MultiPlus-II combines the functions of the MultiPlus and the MultiGrid. It has all the features of the MultiPlus, plus an external current transformer option to implement PowerControl and PowerAssist and to optimize self-consumption with external current sensing (max. 32A). - Victron The MultiPlus-II is a newer model; it is also a single inverter/charger unit, but it has some improvements over the original MultiPlus. It has a more powerful microprocessor, which allows it to provide more accurate and precise control over the charging process. - Victron MP-II form factor is longer and slimmer. So, depending on install may be easier to mount. Idle power draw is less for the MP2 11w vs 25w for the original. Having installed it, in retrospect, I might look at using Victron Lynx power distribution instead of DIY bus bars. A lot to think about. Best, Mike
  2. I would install the SoftStart. It will make everything run smoother and more efficiently, even if MP2 can run AC without it. "From the Dometic Penguin II label. Compressor surge rating of 52a, higher than the Atmos, which is 48a. The Dometic 52a translates to 6240w and 480a at 13vdc. A Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000w Inverter has a surge rating of 6000w. The MP2 has a surge rating of 5500 watts. So, no RV air conditioner above 13k BTU should be run from Inverters and Lithium batteries without a soft start added. The Truma Aventa has an even higher surge rate of 58a." From Sprinter van forum that is very informative on this topic. Even if you have a 11k BTU of lower surge rating, it still makes sense to install SoftStart. The people installing the Atmos for me recommended it as well. Power assist as I understand it and used so far is helpful when connected to shore power not boon docking or traveling. Best, Mike
  3. When I took down the Xantrex, I took down the input leg and then cut short the other run to connect to the output straight from the 15 amp breaker (farthest right) that powers the first GFCI plug (right side of dinette) that powers all the others plus the microwave I think. Then MPII Line IN from the PD ATS, then the Line OUT 1 from the MPII to the Main input at breaker box. Hope that helps. I am terrible and trying to draw diagrams on-line. Wish it was more clear. Mike I am on vacation, so doing this by memory but I believe this is correct.
  4. @Ronbrink Emailed Tony @Mechman.com and ended up ordering the Elite series alternator for the Tundra. Thanks for reminding me. Hand-made in Knoxville, TN Mike
  5. No, they are their miniature twins… Welsh Terriers 20-22 lbs. I still have not worked out the kinks on my DC/DC charger setup, averaging 11-15 amps on the road. So nowhere near the potential of the 50amp charger. Going to try a couple of things when we get home from our trip and the Atmos is installed. Cheers, Mike
  6. Sitting outside at Taughannock Falls, NY in a primitive campsite with 25% battery life left (920aH bank). I have been running the AC off and ON for 2 days. First time I have had to put to use all of my battery backups (GZ4K, etc). And yes most of the AC run time has been for the 2 knuckleheads we enjoy so much. Mimi is expecting again! And, I agree, It just depends how much boon-docking you plan on doing. I wish I had 2000AH! Best, Mike Side note: Starlink is working great!
  7. Read lots of good information and experience above. I have never used this but I have thought about it many times with a plugged Zerk. https://locknlube.com/products/grease-buster?variant=32921003327572 This grease gun with high volume vs high pressure mode works well too https://locknlube.com/collections/grease-guns/products/professional-series-dual-mode-pistol-grip-grease-gun?variant=40111323349076 Best, Mike
  8. Or here: https://www.fiberglassclassifieds.com/category/trailers-for-sale-2
  9. You can find some that have a mounting plate => [Upgraded Version] 12V USB Outlet Qidoe 78W 3 Port USB C 12V Outlet Dual PD 30W & 18W USB A Port with Voltmeter Lengthened Aluminum Body Switch Waterproof USB Car Charger Socket for Car Boat Marine RV https://a.co/d/07mCzHx6 The most I have seen using the ones I installed to charge an iPad is 4.5 amp or around 52 watts. I really just wanted USB-C connections since everything has switched over to that and to be able to fast charge my phone, iPad, etc. Of course the MacBook can charge easily from 50w as well. But I am not an electrician and routinely do things that are above my experience level so I will be the first to say don’t do what I do without doing your own homework.
  10. @jd1923 Yes, I made a custom aluminum mount that turned out awesome and the MPII sits very securely where the Xantrex was originally. Check out my original install post. It is worth pursuing, the Victron eco-system system is pretty sophisticated comparatively. The power hungry 1800 watts of Penguin AC plus 1800 watts of the microwave doesn’t shut down using the MPII but it does show overload for a few seconds. One of the things I am looking forward to not happening with the more efficient Atmos. Best, Mike
  11. Finally got around to upgrading the 12v sockets to USB-C 65W for charging iPads and MacBook. This socket also has an On/OFF button so you don't have to stare at blue lights with the cap off. Cap also closes securely much easier. It is the little things. Amazon link: https://a.co/d/01MrDdX7
  12. Interesting solution @Wildbrew for getting the WIFI over and around the Penguin. As @jd1923 stated I do not have great reception in my TV because the PII blocks it. Mine is in the same spot just not elevated. Because of this, I am seriously considering putting the Cradlepoint and the antenna in the front closet since there is a power outlet it would be simple -- just another hole in the roof. Ugh. But what @rich.dev said is the reason I keep everything in the Oliver is to keep it connected to the outside world. No matter where I am in the world I can check the temperature, change heat and air settings, monitor cameras, get alerts if it moves, etc. Best, Mike
  13. Just so happens, SDG is only 45 min from my dad's house in MI. So I have made an appt for the Atmos 4.4 to be installed July 17th. I am hoping to get some good pictures of installation since it will be the first install for them in an Oliver. Things I already know: No condensation pump or lines No need to use wall mounted thermostat due to Plenum, remote and app controls. If you keep the suburban propane heater, they will mount a simple thermostat for it under the street side twin or elsewhere that is convenient. May or may not use the propane heater any more since the Atmos has a 12k heat pump. They can re-use my SoftStartRV from the PII. The Atmos is almost the same footprint. 2.5 in longer and an 1 in taller. Much quieter and more efficient. I will update as things progress. Best, Mike
  14. Mounting holes are the same. Easy peasy. Use a little Dawn to lubricate the power cord to get it through the rubber reinforcement entering the orange housing. That was the hardest part.
  15. Pretty simple setup if you have a Victron system. I got the new SeeLevel display that has extra 4 pin connection for sending information to the Ekrano/Cerbo from https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/store/seelevel-709-n2k-pm-tank-monitor-kit-for-cerbo-gx/ You do not need new tank sensors.
  16. Yes but because the blackout shade/frame is a little heavier it seems to fall down easier when positioned bottom => up to close or just the frame rides better in bottom of window position. I have used them both ways. I actually prefer the blackout shade on bottom but because it opens easier traveling I tend to use them closed/blackout with frame resting in down position.
  17. For me, the Oliver is the perfect do anything in for any amount of time for 1-2 people. My wife would never spend more than a couple weeks in it but I would in a second. Easy to pull, park, pack, and polish! Excellent durability. I see it as the best means of travel to destination and then unhitch to go explore when you arrive at interesting places. The biggest difference between the Ollie and an Airstream (2nd only to the fiberglass vs aluminum) is the 7ft vs 8ft wide aspect which makes the Oliver easier to pull and maneuver IMO. Fiberglass is more durable and easier and cheaper to repair. Sometimes I think about a Class C motorhome but it has drawbacks for me that make it not appealing. (Having to tow a vehicle is one for destination transportation.) It’s such a personal decision depending on where you want go, etc. The last thing I would ever want to do at this point in my life is to have a very expensive tow vehicle to pull a massive 5th wheel or a fancy Class A that I couldn’t take to a state/federal park (27ft max length in some) or want to drive on the ALCAN highway. There or Pros and Cons to every class of RV. Now, if I had the means and it was going to sit mostly on some acreage in WY or MO it might be the Living Vehicle RV. And if I was dreaming of something it would be an Oliver with a massive solar array on top and battery bank below, bigger windows, 5-10 feet longer than EII with a separate bed and dry bath. Oh, and redesigned bumper for a Class III hitch and more outside accessible storage. Having had the Oliver almost 7 years now, there is nothing at this moment that I would trade it for at any price point for what I like and want to do. Now, I might buy something else to do some other things in other places. Life seems to take on new meaning every 10 years or so. Ha, so who knows! Best, Mike
  18. It does a pretty good job. As well or better than the shades on the windows.
  19. The install is straightforward. Cleaner look with additional option for above head LED light. Blocks most of the light.
  20. For anyone interested in the Atmos 4.4. This is a installation PDF with nice pics of first installation at SDG factory. ATMOS 4.4 Dreiha Atmos 4-4 AC Installation.pdf $1350 shipped, good support through SDG $1150 local pickup Another label, same unit as far as I can tell. TOSOT TST-RV-GC15K-User_manual_230707.pdf 15% off coupon: SMERMM15 $1,212.74 shipped, unsure about support Not sure if the units use same APP for WIFI but is available for both. From what I understand, you will need to wire a thermostat where the old Dometic thermostat is for furnace control. @jd1923 got a quote for this through SDG for about $50. T-stat for controlling furnace. Still waiting to hear about compatibility or need for Micro-Air Easy Touch wifi thermostat (what I am currently using and love). But if the App works great, who cares. If you do use the WIFI thermostat that SDG/Atmos offers it is IR connected and needs direct line of site to unit for it to work. Best, Mike
  21. It's like my sealed transmission in the Tundra just not worth the effort if it goes bad, just replace it with another sealed unit IMO and Toyotas. The refrigerant side of things for a sealed unit is not manufactured to be serviceable. Second, I amended my last statement to state the manufacturing of 410a (not the selling of) units will stop at the end of this year. Phaseout sell-off of inventory is a given. @GJ definitely not trying to school anyone, I just felt like there was a bit of fear mongering with the statements concerning R-32. Although each refrigerant has strong and weak characteristics. I feel like there is a lot more positives to converting than not to which I didn't even get to: 30-40% more efficient, GWP 2/3s less than R410a... bottom line better for the planet without much drawbacks IMO. Cheers mate! On to putting up new MaxxFan shroud/shade with LED light in the cabin.
  22. T-knob replacement link: https://amsolar.com/shop/mounting-hardware/mounts/91m-tknob/
  23. This is what I pieced together after some reading. According to Daikin, R-32 is the most balanced refrigerant in terms of Environmental Impact/Energy Efficiency/Safety/Cost-Effectiveness for Stationary Air Conditioners and Heat Pumps. Estimates 230 million units sold worldwide since 2022. Different from R22 and R410A, the R32 is slightly flammable. But combustion will not occur unless three critical conditions are met, refrigerant concentration, constant oxygen, and an ignition source. In real practice, it's hard to meet all the combustion conditions. R-32 is not self supporting of a flame hence the A2L classification. The A2L subgroup, as categorized by ASHRAE Standard 34, are a class of refrigerants that have lower toxicity and flammability (flame propagation speed is less than 10 cm/s) compared to other classifications — A = non-toxic, 2 = flammable, L = low burning velocity — making it the second-safest refrigerant category. As Oliver owners using units that are self-contained and sealed they should never need a recharge, which also lessens the likelihood of a leak. International Standard ISO 817 defines 2 toxicity classes for refrigerants: Class A – Lower Chronic Toxicity and Class B – Higher Chronic Toxicity. R32 is categorized as Class A. In general speak, Class A refrigerants are called non toxic and Class B are called toxic. All refrigerant are toxic in that they can displace oxygen so ALL refrigerants need extra care. Lastly, they won't be manufacturing any more 410a units after 12/24. Best, Mike Not a tree hugger but we do want to preserve the biosphere we live in. https://www.daikin.com/air/daikin_techknowledge/benefits/r-32 https://www.griffithenergyservices.com/articles/goodbye-r410-hello-a2l-understanding-the-r410-phaseout-new-2023-efficiency-standards
  24. As of now, SDG is who I would buy from $1350 shipped. https://www.sdgelkhart.com/dreiha-4-4
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