Starlink POE or Dual Port?

[JT Long]

Thinking how I’m going to get the ethernet cable from my Starlink Mini into the LE2 and plugged into my router and powering the dish from my camper batteries.  (Rather do DC power and not have to use the inverter.) Has anyone installed the SmartPlug dual data port, replacing the factory satellite port?  That would give me ports for both the ethernet and power cables to exit the hull.  I’m thinking I could use the 12V port in the attic with the Starlink 12V cable kit, but that won’t leave me with much power cable length outside the camper to move the dish around.  My goal is to use the camper batteries for power and a third party router inside instead of relying on the built-in wifi in the dish.
**I know the Mini does not support POE,  However, Mobilemusthave.com has a kit that carries the power over the ethernet cable and then splits it back out at the dish.  Sort of a POE solution that allows you to have only one cable going out of the hull instead of two.

Edited March 8 by JT Long

[rich.dev]

Maybe this post will provide you with some answers.

 

[Snackchaser]

Hey JT, 

Also take a look at my other post for getting your ethernet cable into the Oliver in a neat and professional manner:  "Don’t cut your Starlink Cable! There’s a better way to install Starlink…"  

For the Mini, you will still have to run both the power cable and ethernet cable to do what it sounds like you'r describing.  The second router is a great idea because, as you know, the WiFi/speed decreases when the Mini is placed further away from the trailer.  We travel in the Pacific Northwest with lots of trees so we often have to move the dishy farther away to find a clear sky.  Flexibly in that regard is a must for us too!

Cheers,  Geoff

[JT Long]

This is the POE injector kit I am considering.  It boosts 12V coach batteries to 48V up to 100W over ethernet, and on the Starlink end splits out the power back to the DC port on the dish.  The converter has a LAN port to connect to an external router.  This solution would allow you to only send a Cat6 ethernet cable out to the dish, negating the need for a separate power cable.
My router is the Beryl AX3000 WiFi 6 portable router, which can be powered though a USB C PD port for a completely DC solution.

Edited March 9 by JT Long

[Snackchaser]

Yea that looks like a quality product.  Thanks for sharing!  With the voltage boosted to 48 volts, you could run the dishy father away than the standard power cord will allow, and it's easy to make your own ethernet cables with a few cheap amazon tools, bulk wire and connectors.   I like the DC modem too!  We used to run the Starlink gen 3 modem on the inverter and had to shut it off to save the battery.  Now it just stays on all the time without a worry.

Cheers, Geoff

[jd1923]

Thank you @JT Long and @Snackchaser. We have the “Speed Demon” kit also from MobileMustHave. The Pepwave modem runs on 12VDC too, installed in our tow vehicle. So far we are only connecting by cellular antenna. Something like this is in our future, connecting a powered-up Starlink Mini to the WAN port of the modem. 😂

[JT Long]

My alternative to this solution is to stick with separate ethernet and power cables and install a SmartPlug data port outlet, replacing the existing satellite coax port. I could then use the OEM Starlink 12V/USB cable kit to bring power from the 12V power port in the attic to the SmartPlug port and the other ethernet jack to connect to my Beryl AX router. I would just need to get a keystone coupler barrel connector (the SmartPlug accepts keystone ports) to pass the power out to the Starlink power cable.  I could then loom the power and ethernet cables together.

I think this will work and might be a cheaper solution.  I would need to install a USB C port in the attic for the Beryl AX router.

Edited March 9 by JT Long

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, JT Long said:

I could then use the OEM Starlink 12V/USB cable kit to bring power from the 12V power port in the attic to the SmartPlug port and the other ethernet jack to connect to my Beryl AX router…

I think this will work and might be a cheaper solution.  I would need to install a USB C port in the attic for the Beryl AX router.

You have 12VDC in the attic and adding a USB-C port is easy enough.

What @Snackchaser Geoff was suggesting is that his powered solution and the device you suggested earlier would boost voltage for a longer distance cable run.

Part of me says forget the extra length and mount the Mini on the roof of my truck right next to the Parsec cell antenna! 60+ days out camping so far, only a few days were in the woods and 50’ away, we’d still be in the woods! Most of our camping will always be in the SW where tall trees start at 7K ft elevation. I could always move the truck too since Wi-Fi distance on the Parsec antenna is over 100 ft. Keep us posted on your install!

[JT Long]

UPDATE: I have confirmed with MobileMustHave that the USB C port on their converter is powered at 5V, 3 amps, which is a PERFECT fit power supply for the GL-iNet Beryl AX router.  I can just tap the wires going to the 12V port in the attic to power their POE converter, then plug the Beryl AX into the USB C port on the converter.  That will get me a 100% DC solution off the camper batteries and I only have to send out a single ethernet cable to the Starlink Mini dish, through the existing satellite coax port on the Ollie.  I can then save my Starlink power cable for other applications when using it away from the camper.

Edited March 10 by JT Long

[GaRambler]

Hey JT Im a Newbie and learning. I think I see this is for a stronger signal when more than 50ft away. I just wanted to let you and others know for Basic Mini Operations as Rich.Dev Pointed out to Snackchasers write up. I did what Snackchaser had stated in his awesome Mod(Cracking 12v DC Barrier). It works amazing you just plug the Mini in the exterior port and bang Mini is up and running. I cant say enough how great this works Thank You Geoff hope to cross paths one day and tell you in person. Im not that technical and used exactly what the article stated 12v to 24v then turn up to 30v if we had used a 12 to 48v would this let you go even further away or it would not matter because the router is built in the Mini and would not help because of distance and reason needing and ethernet cable and Router inside the trailer. Interested in what Snackchaser would recommend to work further away and Tree issues along with his basic Mod already. 

[JT Long]

Hey @GaRambler I tested the distance of the built in wifi, which isn’t too bad, but you really need to get the dish up in the air for best reception the further away you get. That’s why I decided to get a small portable router like the Beryl AX and bridge the Mini to the Beryl router inside the camper.  I could still sit the dish on the ground and get a strong signal inside the camper.  Still thinking about the best approach, but yes, if using the camper batteries you’ll need to boost the voltage one way or another.  The POE device is appealing since you only need to run an ethernet cable out to the dish since it carries the power, but its a more expensive solution.

Edited March 11 by JT Long

[Snackchaser]

On 3/10/2025 at 10:01 AM, GaRambler said:

It works amazing you just plug the Mini in the exterior port and bang Mini is up and running. I cant say enough how great this works Thank You Geoff hope to cross paths one day and tell you in person. 

Thanks for your kind words @GaRambler, I hope to get to a rally and meet other Oli owners too!!  

You folks with the Starlink Mini may also be interested in this compact, self-contained Starlink power supply.  It gives the Mini extra portability so you can take it to the campsite of an internet-needy friend, or hiking, or a remote picnic.  It uses six common 18650 rechargeable batteries that will power the Mini for several hours.

This DIY “StarSled Go” was cleverly designed by @Everlanders using a 3D-printed case and electronic components from AliExpress.  It has a power switch, voltage meter, and built-in BMS/equalizing charger.   The case can be printed for a couple of dollars’ worth of filament, and parts are so ridiculously cheap that I built extras for fun and gifts.  Message me if you’re interested in one.

Cheers, Geoff

[Galileo]

I used to be a “tech” guy back when Oracle 7 and Windows 7 were state of the art. Listening to you guys banter back and forth is making me feel like the caveman in those insurance commercials…. 😥

Guess I’ll just take my Orbic hotspot and slink off into a corner….

[jd1923]

On 3/8/2025 at 9:39 PM, JT Long said:

This is the POE injector kit I am considering.  It boosts 12V coach batteries to 48V up to 100W over ethernet, and on the Starlink end splits out the power back to the DC port on the dish.  The converter has a LAN port to connect to an external router.  This solution would allow you to only send a Cat6 ethernet cable out to the dish, negating the need for a separate power cable.

I checked out this unit, nice combo unit, but cannot find specs on standby power consumption. I really prefer the 12|24 Victron converter that @Snackchaser installed, but I'd go without the timer extra. Like @JT LongI require POE which Geoff did not install.

These two items would be a good alternative to the MobileMustHave product, but I do love these guys, spent a lot of money on buying our Pepwave router system from them. Check out these items: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D082AX8/ and 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DKXMVPBG/

This has benefits of being Victron (If it has Bluetooth I'll have 5 Victron products listed on our App!). The Victron charger has a built-in remote switch. It looks like the same, likely China made wiring/terminals. And total price at $120 is about $30 less. 

[jd1923]

Question for @Snackchaser. On your installation, why did you add a jumper to the two grounds on your isolated Victron 12|24 converter. In doing this, does it not become non-isolated? I know you'll have a good answer and thanks in advance!

[Snackchaser]

7 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Question for @Snackchaser. On your installation, why did you add a jumper to the two grounds on your isolated Victron 12|24 converter. In doing this, does it not become non-isolated? I know you'll have a good answer and thanks in advance!

Since you asked; I needed to have a ground pass-through jumper for the "optional" automatic switching using a digital "ground open" trigger😁 Otherwise the jumper isn't needed.  And you're right, the jumper un-isolates the Victron but it's a non-issue for this application.

Cheers, Geoff

[Snackchaser]

JD,

I devised my Victron Starlink Mini power supply because there were no other options available at that time.  Now that there are other options available,  I’d still prefer the Victron for my setup with the standard 50’ Mini cord.  It’s a quality power supply, and I haven’t felt the need for a different router yet.

The PoE injector has benefits too.  It’s a good option if you want have the Mini more than 50’ away and/or use a separate router for a stronger WiFi signal.  The Mini’s built-in router’s WiFi signal can weaken the further away it gets.  This hasn't been a problem for me so far, the problem is always obstructed view on the upper horizon from trees and hills.

In your setup, with the Pepwave router and Mini mounted permanently on your truck, then you don’t need the Victron or PoE injector.  You can simply power the Mini with a shorter 12 volt mobil cord (Amazon).  The Mini's connection to the Pepwave can either be a short Rj45 cable or the Pepwave WiFi interface.

 If you ever want the flexibility to move the Mini away from the truck for clear sky view, then I’d consider either the Victron or PoE injector.  It really depends on how you want to connect to the Pepwave.  Remember, if your in that situation where you need to move the Mini away from the truck, then you don’t have to connect it to the Pepwave every time. . . or it will still connect through WiFi. . . or carry a longer Ethernet cord and run it parallel with the Mini power cord.  You have options.

Cheers!  Geoff

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, Snackchaser said:

It really depends on how you want to connect to the Pepwave.  Remember, if your in that situation where you need to move the Mini away from the truck, then you don’t have to connect it to the Pepwave every time. . . or it will still connect through WiFi. . .

The Pepwave broadcasts Wi-Fi 6 through the Parsec Husky antenna for a very good range. It's nice to connect to one Wi-Fi address on all devices vs. switching to the Mini built-in Wi-Fi. Perhaps the Pepwave can make the Mini connection more efficient vs. the built-in router and it would certainly prioritize data over cell switching to Starlink when needed to save on the 50GB monthly plan. Our T-Mobile 5G business plan is $30/mo after a $20/mo discount for having 2 cell phones on the account. When Starlink HW was $2,500 with $150+/mo service this was NOT an option for us until they offered $50 monthly service. And it's amazing you can pause service when not in use which for our occasional travel is a great cost savings.

One thing I cannot find good information regarding is whether the Starlink Mini can run mounted horizontal to the horizon. I have seen a flat mount on some YouTube videos but an angled pole-mount seems to be preferred where the dish can be turned to best direction. Must the dish be angled to the northern sky? Perhaps it comes down to signal strength, less when angled away some from the satellite. All dish models come with some kind of kickstand to create an angle.

I need a 12VDC connection when connected to the truck. I guess you are saying that since the dish would be mounted rooftop within a few feet, I would not need to boost the 12VDC voltage. Many want everything possible 12VDC vs. 120VAC, but our Victron inverter is on regardless 24x7. If the truck-mounted dish is at times in the woods, I could always just use the supplied power adapter plugged into the AC power outlet on the side of the Oliver and connect to the Mini's built-in Wi-Fi.

[Snackchaser]

26 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

One thing I cannot find good information regarding is whether the Starlink Mini can run mounted horizontal to the horizon. I have seen a flat mount on some YouTube videos but an angled pole-mount seems to be preferred where the dish can be turned to best direction. Must the dish be angled to the northern sky? Perhaps it comes down to signal strength, less when angled away some from the satellite. All dish models come with some kind of kickstand to create an angle.

My typical problem with the Mini is "partial" obstructed view, where the connection continuity is impacted when the satellites pass over the blind spots.  It depends how big the obstruction is, whether it can be buffered-out without disruption or too much speed loss.    I have a Dishy pole mount on the front and rear of the trailer for that reason, and sometimes only that much movement can make a big difference in an obstructed area (See my "Tacky Starlink Dishy Mast" post).  Often the obstruction is on the low horizon and a long mast is the ticket.  That's another advantage with the lightweight Mini because my heavy Gen-3 Dishy is too wobbly on a long pole.  

The Starlink App has an interesting feature that maps the sky and shows obstructions.  I think it works even without having a Starlink connection if you want to play around with it.   It might help you answer the question how well the Mini would work laying flat.

50 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

I guess you are saying that since the dish would be mounted rooftop within a few feet, I would not need to boost the 12VDC voltage

Correct, I think mobil cords are around 15-20 feet long compared to the standard 50" cord, so there is no need to boost the voltage.

Cheers, Geoff

[jd1923]

Thanks @Snackchaser, I was watching one of the videos that @rich.dev supplied, and I ran across this video. Rich and this guy, Everlanders on YouTube, went with the larger dish. He explains (play at 4:40) that aiming the Starlink dish is no longer necessary with more satellites in service. Though Goeff mentioned the "typical problem with the Mini is "partial" obstructed view." I can see that and thanks again, Goeff and Rich.

Maybe I can flat mount the larger less expensive Dish if they offer the $50 service on that hardware. It would be pretty big on the roof of our pickup truck but doable. Already, so many people ask me, "What's that up on your truck?"

So many questions and recently many good answers! I will be contemplating all the options for a while longer... 

 

[JT Long]

I appreciate this conversation.  Thinking through what is needed is not easy for me and I can get analysis paralysis.  My non-POE solution includes the SmartPlug data port, which is expensive at $100 plus the two keystone ports to fit it:  one for ethernet and one for a barrel jack connector for the Starlink power cable.  Together that’s $137.29 for the port to exit the camper.  Keystone components make it easy to snap in though.  I do wonder if I could repurpose the two Furrion TV and Satellite ports instead, one for power and the other for ethernet.  I’m sure it would take some cutting and modifying though.

If I go the SmartPlug port route, then also adding the Victron Orion-Tr 12/24-5 to step up the voltage, and I would also need a stepdown regulator for the 5V/3A I would need for my GL-iNet Beryl router.  I’ve found a cheap one with a USB C port for $9, and I could repurpose the 12V cigarette outlet in the attic for that.  Total for that solution is $210, but if I could repurpose the existing Furrion ports I could save $137 and forgo the SmartPlug port.

The POE solution is the MobileMustHave.com POE kit for the Mini at $149. This would be a much cleaner solution to me, using the wiring to the 12V port in the attic to power the POE injector.  An added benefit to this one is that the injector has a USB-C 5V/3A output built-in, so I could use it to power my Beryl router as well. (It also has a 12V output for a Pepwave.) I don’t have to worry about wiring a separate boosted power supply for the dish and don’t need another power source for the router, and would only need an ethernet pass through coupler to get out of the camper.  So the $149 POE kit and a $12 pass through coupler for $161.

Decisions, decisions . . . 

Edited March 15 by JT Long

[Snackchaser]

1 hour ago, JT Long said:

I appreciate this conversation.  Thinking through what is needed is not easy for me and I can get analysis paralysis.  

Yea this stuff could drive anyone nuts!  Forgive me that Iv’e showed this before, but it still might help you save $$. 

I looked at the SmartPort way back when, and was appalled at the price.  Also it would stick out like a sore thumb on the Oliver.  You can buy another matching Furrion outlet for $9 and a RJ45 panel mount (two) for $16.   Just have to drill the Furrion hole bigger and the RJ45 panel mount will fit right in.  It’s a double female, so any Cat 6 RJ45 patch cord will work on the inside, just fish it up the wall into the attic.  There is a clear path next to the AC drain tube.  Gosh, that photo looks like it's mounted crooked🫢

A female 5.5 mm barrel connector will screw into the Furrion without any drilling if you want to go that route.  You can even make your own Starlink Mini power cord from cable, at least #16, and run the Mini without boosting the voltage.

https://a.co/d/6ZfCA1Q

https://a.co/d/5YNGSrP

https://a.co/d/9p1RQpP

https://a.co/d/hszApCd

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, JT Long said:

I do wonder if I could repurpose the two Furrion TV and Satellite ports instead, one for power and the other for ethernet.

I would repurpose whenever possible vs. drilling new holes in your hull. When adding suitcase solar, instead of adding a new Zamp or SAE port, I repurposed the cable TV port since it was something we would never use. If you do add another outlet, I suggest not drilling the four 1/8" holes. Just use VHB tape or a sealant. It took more work to finish the fiberglass than to build and run the wire harness! 🤣

Edited March 16 by jd1923

[Geronimo John]

Nice work JD!  Perfect loss of 4 holes and creative cable stabilization assembly (AKA Bolt).  A+

[JT Long]

@Snackchaser thanks again. Don’t take this the wrong way, but the inside of your Furrion caps look dirty.  Not that’s anything wrong with that, but I do wonder if an RJ port that has a rubber cap might be a good idea?  Do you have any concerns about the RJ port getting dirt or moisture in it?

Also, I haven’t thought about, much less looked, inside to see how to route the ethernet cable from the attic.  How did you accomplish?