Alcan Springs Quote for Jan-2026

[Wayfinder]

@Tideline77 I forgot.  I ordered them from 4 STATE TRUCKS. https://www.4statetrucks.com/

 

[Wayfinder]

I only have 1 day before I depart for the Eggs & S'Mores rally in FL.  No time to install springs with the need to work today.  oh well.  

The UPS guy, who was quite large, carried both 50 lb boxes of Alcan springs in a bear-hug style.  I was impressed.

I'm ready with some awesome new tools.  

 

Edited January 14 by Chris Scarff

[Geronimo John]

Chris:  Some thoughts about the standard wet bolts vs step bolts for trailer springs:

 

Standard bolts generally used for light duty trailer shackles using a 9/16" diameter shackle bolts without a zirk fitting.  Step Wet Bolts Bolts are used for heavy duty axles where the step is necessary for proper function with bronze bushings.  I believe that all of the OTT trailers, and the most other heavy duty trailer spring shackle bolts are step bolts.  Yet Alcon is using a standard bolts.    This got me wondering about the topic. 

Wet bolts sandwich the springs between the subframe mounting "tabs".  With the step,  the step bolts mechanically limit the clamping of the springs.  The result is that the bolt head is prevented from turning in the mounting tabs by two means.  First, the splines.  Secondly the friction on the tabs by the step and the nut itseld.  As a result of the design, the spring always has some clearance allowing it to more freely rotate relative to the bolt center line.  

My concerns are:

• The Alcans could easily be over tightened thereby forcing the mounting tangs against the springs.  This process  would result in the spring binding in the tabs and facilitate the stripping of the bolt splines thus creating a "spun bolt".  A spun bolt will act as a crude bearing causing the mounting tab holes to quickly wear.  And the repair is rather difficult.  Been there myself.
• Use of Nylock's in high torque situtations often results in the Nylock becoming impossible to remove with hand tools.  To do so, one will likely want access to air tools or electric grinders to literally cut the nut off.  Trying to do so with a hack saw and punch will be tedious, especially it appears that their bolts are very high quality grade 8. 
• As such, failure of a wet bolt will complicate life a lot.  

The only way I would want standard bolts for a splined application is if the bolt head head was fixed using a Hex Capture Washer.  After two years of working with OTT Jason, this approach ended up being the only acceptable long term repair for a spun bolt spline.   

 DIY - Dexter EZ-Flex Center Bolt Spline Repair (20 APR 2024).docx

What are your thoughts about Alcon not using step bolts on our springs?   

Thanks

GJ

 

Edited yesterday at 06:50 PM by Geronimo John
typo

[2008RN]

@Geronimo John

I have to agree with you. about using the Step wet bolts.  When I was installing the Alcan springs in the Oli. I used the wet bolts from Alcan and found when Torqued down to the specs, I could not get grease through the sides on the Bushing.   I finally measured the step bolts and the measured the springs and carriers. I found that the should bolt allowed just over .010 slop.  This allowed grease to come out of the sides and allowed the shackles and springs to move freely.    This allows the EZ-Flex to move freely, and do what it was designed for.  

All of the stress is on the bolt itself and is  not on the threaded shoulder thus allowing a lower torque. 

[Wayfinder]

Well, thanks to my buddy Steve, we had a good time putting on the new springs at a great location.  He's paying me back for helping him put his springs on.  

Based off what Lew at Alcan said, this is around 200 Oliver's receiving the springs.  Pretty good.

Once the weather clears I'll do the first 50 mile ride, come back, and retorque the U-Bolt nuts again to 90 pounds.

Oh, and between two of you (us), do not lose your 7/8 inch deep impact socket, and do not forget to pick one up before starting the job. LOL  Or, driving to the store to get one will delay you.  LOL

Helpful tools and hints:

The new Ryobi impact drill, grease gun, and 4x4 hydraulic jack were all amazing - made things easy. Best to also have two small bottle jacks, 2x" & 4x" wood for cribbing. Not to mention PB Blaster, or equivalent, for the old U-bolts nuts, and small wire brush to clean off those old U-bolt threads before attempting to remove the nuts. One nut got bound up and I had to use old muscles and extra leverage to get the nut off.  (Fun times).  LOL

 

 

 

Edited Sunday at 04:58 PM by Wayfinder
Tried to re-upload images, but the forums is making images look bad. Not sure why.

[jd1923]

56 minutes ago, Wayfinder said:

Well, thanks to my buddy Steve, we had a good time putting on the new springs at a great location.  He's paying me back for helping him put his springs on.

Good work, Chris. I know you will be happy towing your next time out! 😂 I'm guessing you did this at Steve's since both Olivers are there. GREAT carport with concrete pad, I'm jealous! We have a 3/4 acre parcel, but I can't figure out a spot 25 ft off property lines for the city, that's easy to back into, and is level. I'll have to keep hiding our Oliver behind the Tuff Shed where it partially blocks the southern exposure.

Yeah, now 200 Alcan-upgraded Olivers! Welcome to the club! 😎 

[Wayfinder]

I did a final torque of the U-bolts after 200 miles and the nuts only needed 1 to 3 quarter turns.  

I must say though, like others noted before me, I did have some minor.... "disruptions" (not damage) inside the trailer after that 200 miles - never seen before disruptions.  I did have a rear upper cabinet door open for the first time ever, but at the same time, I noticed that the latch was free-floating on the panel and on all three rear panels.  They were obviously lose before the trip, so they are snugged up now. Add that to the annual inspection list.

Also for the first time ever, I had a bottle of salsa open up inside the fridge.  No glass broken. So the bottom of the fridge must have been very bumpy to unscrew a lid. I will inspect plumbing area and electronics soonest. (updated: all good so far)

Why do I mention this?  Well, I'm thinking, and this is just me, so you do you, but I should have removed that lower/smallest 5th plate.  Let's face it, that thicker steel is not going to break easily, especially with the second leaf being so extra long.  But, oh well, I have 5-leafs now - all good. I'll just ensure things are buttoned up tighter.  I can carry more alcohol and steaks now too.

Overall, I did notice a HUGE difference with driving over bridges and not-so-perpendicular railroad tracks.  The camper did not rock back and forth nearly as much as with the 3500 pound, ten year old, springs.

• 4-Leaf: 2250 x 4 = 9,000 lbs (just my recommendation after 200 miles - just things to consider - others here have only used 4-leafs)
• 5-leaf: 2750 x 4 = 11,000 lbs

Edited yesterday at 07:48 PM by Wayfinder
Because I never proof-read

[John and Debbie]

1 hour ago, Wayfinder said:

I did a final torque of the U-bolts after 200 miles and the nuts only needed 1 to 3 quarter turns.  

I must say though, like others noted before me, I did have some minor.... "disruptions" (not damage) inside the trailer after that 200 miles - never seen before disruptions.  I did have a rear cabinet door open for the first time ever, but at the same time, I noticed that the latch was free-floating on the panel and on all three rear panels.  They were obviously lose before the trip, so they are snugged up now. Add that to the annual inspection list.

Also for the first time ever, I had a bottle of salsa open up inside the fridge.  No glass broken. So the bottom of the fridge must have been very bumpy to unscrew a lid.
I will inspected plumbing area and electronics soonest. 

Why do I mention this?  Well, I'm thinking, and this is just me, so you do you, but I should have removed that lower/smallest 5th plate.  Let's face it, that thicker steal is not going to break especially with the second leaf being so extra long.  But, oh well.  Too late now. I'll just ensure things are buttoned up tighter.

Overall, I did notice a HUGE difference with driving over bridged and not-so-perpendicular railroad tracks.  The camper did not rock back and forth nearly as much as with the 3500 pound, ten year old, springs.

• 4-Leaf: 2250 x 4 = 9,000 lbs (just my recommendation after 200 miles - just things to consider - others here have only used the 4-leaf)
• 5-leaf: 2750 x 4 = 11,000 lbs

"Overall, I did notice a HUGE difference with driving over bridged and not-so-perpendicular railroad tracks.  The camper did not rock back and forth nearly as much as with the 3500 pound, ten year old, springs."

We noticed that also and had some movement of items in the trailer in the first few hundred miles.  All has settled in now and we like how it rides.

John

[Wayfinder]

1 hour ago, John and Debbie said:

We noticed that also and had some movement of items in the trailer in the first few hundred miles.  All has settled in now and we like how it rides.

John

Thanks John for the feedback.  That's what I was hoping would happen.  It was sort of cool to see the black sealant squeezing out between the leafs when I did the final snug-up of U-Bolts.  Just interesting.

[jd1923]

21 hours ago, John and Debbie said:

We noticed that also and had some movement of items in the trailer in the first few hundred miles.  All has settled in now and we like how it rides.

John stated this nicely. Our first time out, everything in the Attic was upside down! We had the hangers in the closet bounce off, clothes on the floor! A new suspension needs to seat and settle, period.

Since our first outing, never another issue. But perhaps Chris, you left the lid on the salsa jar a bit loose last time... 🤣

Removing the 5th leaf... IMHO, good thing you left things as Alcan engineering had designed. They do not suggest the 4-leaf configuration and they know more than we do. I will say however, as an experienced auto mechanic and engineer, I have not followed all of their torque specs. Yes, you certainly need 90 ft-lbs for the U-bolts but I personally believe their specs on the wet bolts are too tight. They spec 80 on the end bolts and 65 on the centers. I went with 65 and 55 so that the suspension flows better up-n-down. The nuts are NyLok, so they're not coming off.  Just my take and this does help. 😎

Cabinets opening? They are loose to begin with! OMG, such blasphemy? Did I again criticize OTT? Shame on me!  Please forgive me for suggesting DIY improvements! 🤣

I rode inside our trailer once, Chris towing gently down a local paved road, before our Alcan upgrade, and EVERY overhead cabinet was rattling, even banging loudly. I added a 2" strip of foam tape on both resting pads of every cabinet and they snug nicely now and do not rattle anymore. Something like this works great and I promise you will NEVER have an upper cabinet open again!

Welcome to the 200+ Alcan Oliver club and I commend you in doing this install yourself as only a very few of have done so! 😎

https://a.co/d/0b1cbrph

Edited 8 hours ago by jd1923
Made Amazon link for 1/8” tape.