2008RN

Congrats things really worked out. I know we are blessed to get our Oli

John Davies, Seadog, Thanks for the insights.

I am in the process of designing a holder on the back of the Oli something a kin to what John E Davies did only using a Semi underbelly storage box for storing stuff. I have the New style bicycle rack receiver on the back of my Oli. I decided to pull of the bike rack receiver and it was full of water inside of the tube. When I turned it upside down water came gushing out. ie: the bottom half was water tight. The old is now 1 year old, and has spent the last 3 months outside. (I just got my permit and engineered plans back from the county so I can start on a 3 sided RV port.) The rack had only seen about a month of rain here, and what ever washing to had in the last year to fill the aluminum cavity with water. For those that have a bike rack hitch. You may want to check your rack. If I was to keep the rack I would drill a couple of holes on the bottom to allow water out. Back to the subject. This got me thinking about galvanic corrosion using SS bolts/washers/against the 6061-T6 aluminum. It does not look like Oliver has done anything to offset the Galvanic corrosion. Am I making to big of a deal about this? What have other people done to mitigate the dissimilar metal? Also I have some 7000 series aluminum lying around that I thought about using for backing plates. I think that the Semi storage box is probably either 3000 or 5000 series, but I am just guessing. The structural aluminum I will uses will be 6061-T6. Do you have to worry about Galvanic corrosion between differing series of Aluminum?

Sorry Texasguy, I meant to quote Ray and Susan Huff from Oregon. That is what I get for using my phone at work.

is this the one in Coburg/ Eugene

I have been looking for a good collapsible table, do you happen to know the manufacture of the table.

I have been reading about the Camp Chef Ranger II 2-Burner Stove works on RV Low pressure. You will just need to get a flared female to quick connect male fitting. I just ordered one from Cabelas for $120 (shipping free). I will post how it works for heating up a pan of water. Here is a good review for a 3 burner: https://popupbackpacker.com/champ-chef-ranger-iii-stove-almost-perfect/ The 2 burner is the same exact design as the 3 burner only 2 burners and 10 lbs lighter.

Well, I fixed it sort of. I decided to take the Q1200 apart. I removed the orifice, and reamed it out a little, with oxygen/acetylene clean out reamers. The orifice was a approx. .032 in and is now around .035" around a 20% area increase. I put it back on. No longer tops out at 200 degrees, but now hits 450 degrees, and on low is 350 degrees. I think that the real problem was that the orifice was being partially block by something. I am now running a little hot. Oops. I may see if I can find a replacement orifice and go back to the original size. I can at least grill.

This is the torjik package, This only real difference is they use a 1/8 pipe nipple about 3 inches long, then they add the quick connect. The blue little disc clamps around the nipple and then attaches to the Weber sheet metal that use to hold the regulator. It really sturdies up all the fittings when you push the quick connect hose on. I did get ahold of Torjik, and they said it was most likely caused from poor quality quick connect on the trailer, too long of a pipe run on the trailer, or too low propane pressure in the trailer. I pointed out to them that the female connector was made by a high quality American company that is suppose to meet specs. and it is 4ft from the tanks. I has tested the fridge and the stove in the Oli and they seem to work fine.

I just crawled under the Oli and from the tanks is a regulator, then a hose to the main copper line that feeds the trailer. from there every thing tees off for all of the appliances as well as the quick connects. So is the pressure the runs the rest of the RV appliances enough to run the Q1200?

I was just reading the previous thread about propane pressure @ quick connect. I am new to the Oliver only owned it 2 months. I just bought a Q1200 grill, same basic grill as the Q1000 except it has little fold out tables. I bought a Torjik conversion kit for the Q1200. The kit contained all of the needed fittings, an Aluminum disk that connects to the original q1200 regulator support bracket for stabilization of the fitting and a 12' quick disconnect hose. I am able to light the grill but it has a very small flame and does not heat up enough to really grill. I could probably heat up a hot dog over an hour. I tried switching to each of the tanks; no change. I also tried both the front and rear quick connects. That did not make a difference. I am kind of lost where to go from here, beside adding fittings to one tank to use high pressure setup and put the requlator back on.

John et al, I just bought a 10 month old E2 twin (2020) hull# 648. We would like to put in Natures Head Composting toilet. For those that have installed there own Toilet: 1. Did you just put screws into the fiberglass flooring. Did you have to add support under the floor to get enough strength to hold the toilet securely in place. 2. There is not a fuse mark for the toilet, All of fuse slots are clearly marked for a purpose. Can I just use a Posi-Tap into the Auto drain wires or the water pump switch wires in the cabinet.

I bought 3-4 tubes back in the early 80s, back with ordering through a Nashbar catalog. Back then there wasn't that many great bike shops to buy good gear, so I would save up and make large purchases a couple of times a year. I still buy more tubes than I will ever need. I bet I have at least 8 brand new tubes on hand. I end up scrapping some now and then due to age. I keep enough parts on hand to repair any problems on our bikes that would arise. I also went through a time starting in the late 80's with hubs with sealed bearings, so the headset was the only thing that got re-greased. Now we have 4 bikes that are back to loose bearing. Back in the early 80s I even had a tools for lubing the old clusters, I could hook up the tool with the tube and grease the cluster. Oh ya back on topic, this is an Oliver forum.

John, Thanks for your input on Grease, I repacked all of our bicycles this winter, and of coarse I used Phil Wood Grease. I love it, using CV2 on most of my grease needs.

I have a refrigerator smoker painted duck colors with a magnetic Duck emblem on the front. I live in beaver territory, and a few of my friends gave me a hard time about it. So, I put a beaver emblem on the back end of the smoker. I told my friends, if the ducks ever lost I would put the beaver emblem on the front. Well, The front now has the beaver emblem on the front until our next matchup. Hope your trip is going well, Bob