The trailer's not charging from the car maybe?

[KarenLukens]

I plugged the tester into my car and I'm getting 12vdc out of it to the trailer, but I don't think that the trailer is charging from the car when towing. Is this normal? Do I have a fuse to reset somewhere? What do I do to test the trailer charging system from the car? With the Solar it really hasn't been noticable except for on one cloudy rain filled day that we were driving. After a full 6 hours of driving, the trailer charge level had only moved 1/10 on the Zamp meter. I realize that the Zamp meter isn't designed for this but I'd like to check the battery charging connection on the trailer if possible. I have a multimeter and a test light probe with me.

[geO]

I'm just trying to help Reed. Not sure on this but Check the 20amp breaker for the charge wire as indicated in this image.

[Overland]

On most vehicles the voltage drop is too great over that distance to get much charge.  You can try running a heavier gauge set of cables with a separate connector to see if that works.  But back when I was looking into it, there was also the problem that the alternator will sense the vehicle battery charge and cut the alternator output even if you run heavier cables.  That's the point I stopped off my research but I do think there were ways around it all.  The Victron system that I was looking at had a separate thingamajammer that dealt with charging from the vehicle.  I also remember that Super Duty owners had an advantage here, in that those trucks are factory ready for a second alternator and a separate voltage sense cable back to the trailer.

[bugeyedriver]

A lot goes on with our sophisticated electrical systems in these fine trailers.  Don't forget that your Progressive Dynamics charging system will sometimes draw down the battery on purpose as part of its maintenance cycle.  Could that have been occurring during your 6 hour drive, competing with an incoming charge?  There are much greater electrical minds on this forum the me  (i.e.: ScubaRx or Buzzy) perhaps they can chime in.

 

What if you hooked up your trailer to your TV and put a voltmeter directly on your battery pack without the engine running and then had Karen turn the TV on and rev the engine a bit to get the alternator giving what it is capable of and see if the voltmeter registers a positive change?

[SeaDawg]

Have you tried applying some dielectric grease to the ball? We found that helpful. A little packet at AutoZone was a dollar or two.

 

Sherry

[KarenLukens]

Yup, it's had fresh grease on it since we left the factory. I think Overland hit it right on the head and I've seen this happening with a lot of new vehicles. A friend bought the new Dodge Eco-Diesel and his Escape hasn't charged with his either. I even have the extra plug in on ours to help the trailer register with the car because a lot of the newer cars can't see trailers with LED lighting because they don't pull hardly and voltage. I've been looking for better answers but it's been a year and our Casita didn't charge when towing either. The newer cars answer is what I keep hearing but I haven't found a fix for it yet even with the charged plug in added into the circuit.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFVOF3M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

[bugeyedriver]

A lot goes on with our sophisticated electrical systems in these fine trailers. Don’t forget that your Progressive Dynamics charging system will sometimes draw down the battery on purpose as part of its maintenance cycle. Could that have been occurring during your 6 hour drive, competing with an incoming charge?

 

Well heck!  That theory makes no sense (after thinking about it some more) because the Progressive Dynamics unit only operates when you are connected to shore power or to your generator.  However, some of the higher end Zamp charge controllers have programable deep cycle profiles available.  Does your Zamp do this?