Anyone changed out the bathroom fan?

[Yukon]

1 hour ago, bhncb said:

Can't recommend that. However remote, a malfunction could  cause the motor to overheat and start melting the wiring. The fuse could be replaced but you'd have to find the appropriate one and use high-temp parallel crimps. Not worth the effort or cost.

 

[Yukon]

Ok, thanks I figured as much always tend to the safe side. Ordered up the fuse now . Thanks for the 9V test, I am heading in the right direction now. Still could be the switch but I don’t think 🤔 so. I have some heat shrink butt terminal s from my boating days that should work for connecting. 👍🏻

[Yukon]

6 hours ago, Overland said:

I noticed last month when washing my Ollie that the gasket had deteriorated and was coming loose. I pulled off the loose bits but it sounds like I need to take the cover off and clean the rest out as well. Thanks for the heads up. 

Does the cover snap off? It looks like there are a couple of screw holes in your photo but I can’t see how you’d access them from above.

edit, never mind - just took a look and it’s obvious  

 

[Yukon]

No Two screws, and don’t lose them , as ace hardware puts them in specialized list and does not carry them,  different threads.

Edited August 25, 2020 by Yukon

[bhncb]

51 minutes ago, Yukon said:

Update, 9V has the motor spinning, it must be the thermal fuse, ordered from Amazon. Hopefully not switch.

The switches have a history. Also easy enough to check.

[bhncb]

1 hour ago, mossemi said:

Yep!  I confuse myself sometimes, bhncb.  Thanks for the frown👍.
Mossey

I knew what you meant but had to ping anyway.  Thanks for the fuse link. Us tinkerers can use it.

 

[mossemi]

4 hours ago, bhncb said:

Can't recommend that. However remote, a malfunction could  cause the motor to overheat and start melting the wiring. The fuse could be replaced but you'd have to find the appropriate one and use high-temp parallel crimps. Not worth the effort or cost.

Does the parallel crimp connector conduct heat more uniformly that a typical butt connector and that’s why it is used by the fan manufacturer?  Does the lack of an insulator make it a high temp connector or are they made from different materials which handle higher heat?

Looking at the pictures that Yukon posted of the thermal fuse, it seems that Oliver used a closed end crimp connector to connect the black house hot wire to the white thermal fuse wire.  Would that satisfy the high temp and the heat conductivity requirements or is the fuse protecting the house wiring and the closed end crimp connector?

Mossey

[bhncb]

25 minutes ago, mossemi said:

Does the parallel crimp connector conduct heat more uniformly that a typical butt connector and that’s why it is used by the fan manufacturer?  Does the lack of an insulator make it a high temp connector or are they made from different materials which handle higher heat?

Looking at the pictures that Yukon posted of the thermal fuse, it seems that Oliver used a closed end crimp connector to connect the black house hot wire to the white thermal fuse wire.  Would that satisfy the high temp and the heat conductivity requirements or is the fuse protecting the house wiring and the closed end crimp connector?

Mossey

High temp terminals are nickel plated steel and don't loosen with repeated temperature fluctuations like standard copper will. You'll find these in any UL household appliance where crimp terminals are used. They require a lot more force to crimp but result in a more positive connection where soldering isn't feasible. Big advantage of parallel over butt is they make for a shorter splice and work better in tight spaces.  You can see this in Yukon's pictures.

The white closed end crimps are internal fan wiring done by the fan mfg, not Oliver.  Not being directly subject to heat from the motor, they are probably standard copper barrel terminals. Since the fuse is a thermal protection device, as opposed to current protection, it must be in direct contact with the fan motor.

[Yukon]

Anyone know where I can pick up high Temp Parallel crimps, can’t seem to locate them🤔

[Yukon]

21 hours ago, mossemi said:

ShallowGal had to replace a thermal fuse on the the B+ wire at the bath fan earlier this year.  The MaxxAir fan still worked because the bath fan and rectifier diode is at the the end of that circuit.  You mentioned that you did not test the fan, but did you test the power supply at the the fan?

Mossey

Do you remember what type of connector was used when you replaced the thermal fuse? 

[bhncb]

3 hours ago, Yukon said:

Anyone know where I can pick up high Temp Parallel crimps, can’t seem to locate them🤔

Before you spend a lot of time searching for these, fact check me with a magnet. See if the crimps on your old fuse are attracted to it. If not, there's a chance they may be  "brazed barrel" copper crimps. These will be much easier to find.

[mossemi]

Yukon, I didn’t replace my fuse.  It was a different Oliver owner, ShallowGal.  I’m interested to find out if your fans thermal fuse crimps are indeed magnetic.  In the meantime, I ordered 50 of these.  They won’t be in Florida until the end of the month.  If you can wait until then I’ll send you a few.  Anybody else interested?  Just send me a PM with your address.

Mossey

[Yukon]

I just tried a magnet 🧲 and there was no attraction, do you guys know what size wiring , as I cannot read the writing on the wires. I never used butt splice connectors do you crimp them twice?

[bhncb]

6 minutes ago, Yukon said:

I just tried a magnet 🧲 and there was no attraction, do you guys know what size wiring , as I cannot read the writing on the wires. I never used butt splice connectors do you crimp them twice?

I believe the wire and fuse lead are both 18. You can use a wire stripper as a gauge and see which size best fits without nicking. If you're going with the butt, just one crimp per side. Best to use a dimple style crimper with uninsulated terminals.

[Yukon]

Ok then, thanks for your help. It seems to me with the bathroom drawing moist air one would want a watertight crimp, just saying I don’t know much about this. I am going to give it a shot see how it goes thanks for your help..............

Edited August 23, 2020 by Yukon

[bhncb]

14 minutes ago, Yukon said:

Ok then, thanks for your help. It seems to me with the bathroom drawing moist air one would want a watertight crimp, just saying I know like about this. I am going to give it a shot see how it goes thanks for your help..............

🤙 Let us know how you make out.

[GraniteStaters]

I had a problem with the gasket on the bathroom fan too.  When I removed the cover I observed that the adhesive tape had separated from the flimsy gasket.  I went to HD and purchased a larger and denser foam and cut it using the original gasket as my measure.  I decided to attach to the bottom and not the top and simply left about 1/8-1/4inch of the foam above the ridge.  I pressed the adhesive portion of the foam against the inside circumference of the fan.  It seems to work.  I have enough foam to do this several more times and will probably cut the foam to adjust around the flanges on the top cover to get a better fit on version 1.01.  

[Yukon]

White or black is positive?+

Edited August 24, 2020 by Yukon

[Yukon]

[bhncb]

1 hour ago, Yukon said:

White or black is positive?+

Black. Double check though. The black should go to the switch and then from the switch to motor terminal with red dot.

[Yukon]

Yep 🙏 

[Yukon]

Ok done thanks for the help, anyone need a thermal fuse I will send. The parts are real junk, standard for the industry I guess. And if you don’t watch the condition of your gasket material you will be doing the same . Not much fun hanging from a ladder. I will advise on how my gasket material holds up. Thanks all.

Edited August 25, 2020 by Yukon