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What about that Penguin II on the roof?

I gotta see this "dye-cast fiberglass" process.

Sorry but I have to ask. You do realize this is not a brake light don't you?

You might also want to check those water pump mounting screws. They looks as sketchy as the wiring job.

The windows in my 2018 don't have the hole at the top either. I believe by this time, instead of just one "universal" window assembly, Hehr decided to make L/R specific assemblies with (2) appropriately punched weep holes. An ignored aspect however was the upside down screen on the curbside assembly, with plastic glide strip at the top and retention springs on the bottom. Not a huge issue to correct however. Significant quality improvements to the Hehr 5600 windows were incorporated sometime mid 2019 and probably found their way into Oliver's 2020 MY production. One easy to spot change is the elimination of the exterior visible pop rivets that retain the glass divider strip. Other notables are closer and more consistent tolerances and correct orientation of the obscure glass pane in the bath window units. I don't know if the upside down screen was corrected but maybe someone with a 2020 or later model can check this. Hehr makes weep hole covers (p/n H109-916) but rather than plugging the holes, they provide an "awning" to help divert rainwater from entering. Unfortunately they only come in black and are relatively expensive but I'd think something like this would also benefit the bottom holes.

So OTT is just another manufacturer producing evolving products with an electrical system that a "skilled trade" can't understand? The only challenge with the earlier model diagrams is seeing through the errors. How about just admitting not wanting to commit the resources required to maintain accurate wiring diagrams. That's even more believable.

Shouldn't ever drip inside. Most likely you've got a leak in the condensate line at one of the multiple tube connections between the evaporator drain pans and white PEX overboard line shown in Dave's photo. With the intake filter on the bottom front of the air distribution box removed, you should be able to see all the potential sources and if there is backup from an obstruction further down. To remove the filter: Open the forward air diverter, Then use a few fingers to reach in and feel for the front edge of the filter frame. Push down hard at the center until the it pops loose.

No need for a voltmeter here. The error code 6 tells you all you need to know. The Norcold has two separate 12 volt connections. One is for powering the controls and the other for the heater. When these refrigerators are installed in a motorized camper, the control input is wired direct to the battery and the heater input is connected to an "engine running" source. This scheme is intended to prevent the vehicle battery from being run down inadvertently. In a travel trailer where this isn't a concern, the two 12 volt inputs should be jumpered together so both are powered by a single circuit. Definitely open a ticket with service. This is an installation error they should resolve for you warrantee or not.

Jacking up the front without unhitching is the solution. If the trailer is level or slightly nose down when dumping, greywater will backup toward the black valve, partially filling the section between the two valves. While the hose may empty, when it's capped and you pull away, any water left laying in the drain line will find its way back into the hose.

The controller is supposed to go through a reset routine whenever it powers up. 18 volts from the panels sounds right but the batteries at 4.5 indicates probable shorted cell. Next step would be to test the batteries but this will probably just confirm what you already know. Depending on their age, it may be more expeditious to just replace them. In the meantime, best to darken your solar panels with a blanket and disconnect and insulate the wires from the controller SOLAR terminals.

601 is battery disconnected. Likely a faulty wire terminal crimp somewhere. Been there. Use a two-part epoxy like this one, my go-to for small jobs.

The fluorescent lights in the sales delivery bay should be enough to at least get the controller power indicator and display to light up. Definitely sounds like some education would benefit the orientation process. Are your sure you're not seeing power coming from the batteries? The controller electronics are powered by the solar panel input. If their is no output from the controller, the battery terminals will simply be at battery voltage. You need to check for voltage across the solar panel input terminals. Rain or shine, I think as long as there is 10 volts or so, the controller will start to come alive.

Agree. Just disable the 7-way charge line like Oliver does.

If truly after a basic upgrade, I'd skip the solar controller and inverter upgrades for now. Just remove the Progressive converter section and wire in something like a Victron 30 amp Blue Smart charger that has a true Li-ion charging algorithm. You'll save a lot of wiring and needless equipment replacement and may find your requirements will change.

IR thermometer would be good to have here. First thing to do is pull the battery tray out and check the battery cases for abnormally high temp. If nothings feels unusually warm/hot, check the negative battery terminal that has the zamp temp sensor connected to it. (This is the forward outer battery on my 2018 with the agm option) If the 604 is valid (>65 degrees C ) you should not be able to touch it for very long. If hot, remove all charging sources and loads and disconnect batteries for test or replacement. Next, assuming all battery temps seem normal (604 is false), pull the zamp controller out and disconnect the two temp sensor wires. The 604 error should clear and charging will resume. If this occurs, the temp sensor likely has a fault in the wire somewhere and the entire sensor will need to be replaced. If the error doesn't clear, the controller may be bad. Not having the temp sensor hooked is okay just not optimal for charging.