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Perhaps Oliver should provide a Lithionics battery power off sequence that includes following individual manufacturers instructions for properly powering up and down the various DC appliances. Had the AquaGo been powered down prior to turning the batteries off and on, it would have powered up without issue.

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Could that have been 12 V as in volts? Did it stop flashing after awhile? The Zamp controller isn't the most elegant piece when it first starts to wake up at sunrise. Mine often makes squealing noises to accompany the flashing display but I've learned to just rollover and go back to sleep until the sun is up.

If yours is a later model with a 40 amp switchable circuit breaker under the streetside bunk access, reset this first and recheck for the error. Beyond this, the next step in troubleshooting would be to trace the wiring looking for a faulty connection at a wire terminal. These can occur at the battery, circuit breaker, or rear of the controller.

Great review! I use a 15K Airtug to move mine around and lack of traction on any degree of grade is the main problem, particularly when backing up. Power is never an issue but just pushing the trailer up over the 1" curb from apron to garage slab requires a running start. Add in much of a turning angle and tire scrub forces greatly exacerbate the problem.160 pounds of kitty litter ballast in the tongue basket and lowering tug tire pressures helps some, but I'm convinced a front mount TV hitch is a much cheaper, safer, and manageable solution, for those who can use one.

Nothing to change when switching to AGMs. The PD only has a single charging profile for lead acid batteries. Your 2019 may not have the updated converter with the Li mode switch. The only way to tell is to pull the front off and look at the circuit board.

Replace the batteries. One bad one will drag down the other. Since you’re reading 12.6 V when plugged into shore power, the converter is outputting and likely okay. Also, it doesn’t click when turning on or off. Maybe you’re thinking about the transfer switch?

If there is an HDMI cable between the Visio TV and Furrion stereo, and it is plugged into the port on the TV that supports ARC, you should be able to get TV sound by selecting the ARC input on the stereo. Depending on how Visio has implemented the ARC function, with an ARC input active, it should override the TV speakers automatically and the volume control will instead adjust the audio level on the HDMI. Try this with the TV speaker left on. You may have to initially adjust the TV volume to get the stereo speaker output levels comparable to what they are with a normal listening setting for a different input like FM. I.e. With a setting of 6 on the stereo, the sound level should be the same whether the input selected is FM or ARC.

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While everyone's corrective actions and associated comments have only validated my procrastination for tackling this problem, all the information provided thus far is most valuable. In looking at everyone's broken flange pictures, I have to wonder: Had Oliver clocked the flanges such that the Johnny Bolts would be positioned closer to the end of the slots, instead of midway nearer the insertion reliefs, would these flanges be less prone to failure? I'm not suggesting this would solve the inherent problem, but it seems to me that the plastic flange might be stronger and less prone to flex with the bolts positioned near the end adjacent to the flange retaining screws. I'm coming up next and have a couple of stainless-steel ring solutions on deck. Thanks for all the tips.

Winterizing. You only want the solution to go into the water heater. The only procedural difference in valve settings would be for the water heater bypass. FYI I usually buy 3% peroxide at Sam's Club where they sell it in a two-pack of quart bottles or 1/2 gallon for less that 2 bucks. Walmarts also typically have individual quart bottles.

It's unnecessary as long as your power source can handle the inrush current, while also providing power for potentially other demands. I saw a Houghton table somewhere that the minimum generator size to reliably operate the 3400 was a 2200 watt class like a Honda or Yamaha. Key word being "reliably". A soft starter can still provide benefit.

The aluminum water heater tank and anode are the only components that can be adversely affected by a chlorine solution. Unless you can remove the safety relief valve, the only practical way to induce a solution into the water heater is to pump it in using the winterizing valve settings. I would premix the solution in a large enough container and draw it into the water heater this way. Beginning with an unpressurized water system: 1. Start with all water faucets closed, the rear inlet capped, and the water heater bypass valve normalized. (Not bypassed) 2. Remove w/h anode for draining. 3. Lift to open the safety relief valve lever on the water heater to vent the tank and allow all water to drain. Note that this value must remain open until the very end . 4. After water tank has completely drained, reinstall anode. 5. Connect a drawtube from solution container to rear inlet and use water pump to draw solution in until it starts coming out the w/h safety relief valve. Note that the solution should only enter the water heater if all other water outlets are closed. At this point, how long you leave the solution sit in the tank isn't that important. Go ahead with draining and refilling the tank with freshwater finalizing by closing the relief valve lever.

The chlorine bleach could be highly corrosive to your aluminum water tank when heated. To be extra careful, I would thoroughly flush the tank as Bill suggests but with a 10:1 solution of water and 3% Hydrogen peroxide. Peroxide will neutralize any residual chlorine.

This is unverified and open for corrections: In order of production model years: Icon (2014-2016), HiSpec (2017-2018), Sendel (and/or) Tredit (2019), Lionshead (and/or) Sumec (2020-2023). Maybe OTT could provide validation and resolve by production VIN.