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What I was trying to say is position 12 in the main lower panel got mislabeled. Whoever did this was supposed to add the 'Cabin/Cabinet Lights' designation to previously unused position 12 in the upper aux panel. Typically, optional equipment that is not ordered/installed still have the circuit reserved, and are often pre-wired, but no fuse installed. This simplifies manufacturing and provides flexibility for last minute additions or future upgrades. The panel labeling in my LEII was fairly accurate and complete, as far as it went. (Not unlike the ones in every house I've owned) Perhaps the missing wiring diagrams is simply a case of documentation lagging production. Shouldn't happen but... Manufacturers don't adjust to change readily.

Fuse position 12 in the main panel under the dinette is supposed to be for the optional "auto-drain" dump valve. (aka shower back flow preventer) Check in the auxiliary fuse panel Overland mentioned. In prior model years, all lights were fed by a 15 amp (blue) in position 11. I suspicion Oliver may have split this into two circuits and "position 12" in this panel may feed the lights in question. If there is no fuse in position 12, either put one in or short it briefly to see if the non-functioning lights respond. As far as the mysterious switch: Did Oliver by chance finally add the missing cabinet light inside the pantry? If so, perhaps it is on the same circuit as the other non-functioning lights? For some reason the 2020 owners manual does not include wiring diagrams. Come on Oliver. What's up with this.

My thoughts: For future reference, activating the breakaway switch will not turn on the brake lights. Also, it's good practice to routinely pull and re-insert the switch pin to verify operation. The first time you do this will give you an idea of the actual force required. In the seven-way plug, the right turn/stop and tail/marker light contacts are adjacent to the 12V aux. This explains the two anomalies you experienced. My solution for keeping water out,

The WBA validation program (QR code) was instituted for/by member bearing mfgs. There is not much to be gained by name-recognition counterfeiting comparatively low cost seals. Timken seals are actually National Seals in a Timken box with the National part number on it. Timken doesn't even bother assigning it's own part numbers. "Made in Taiwan" means nothing as far as authenticity. In the future, you might be able to save a little by just ordering Nationals. BTW: I learned a long time ago to not start stockpiling spare parts for something until the something was actually sitting in my driveway.

Follow the fuse holder wire down about a foot. There will be a yellow butt splice connection with the trailer wiring that goes forward to the switch. If the connection looks to still be together, give the wires a slight tug to check the crimps. Also, a cheap 12V test light would save you a lot of time and work trouble shooting.

Those look more like tool scratches than cracks. Contact the service department for a repair solution. Be sure to also point out the cracked flange on the vent cap where the screw was over tightened. The cap needs to be replaced as well.

While this is somewhat new, look on the back of the bearing box for the sticker with a QR code. You can get the "WBA Check" app, which will scan and verify these codes. This applies to other manufactures, not just Timken.

What exactly did you do here? It should only have been necessary to hook up the outside cable port connection , turn off the amplifier (green light), and change the TV signal source from air to cable. At least that's how it worked on my 2018.

The clips serve a purpose and missing ones should be replaced. I wouldn't count on Dexter being responsive because Oliver does not order the Dexter axles with springs. Your best bet would be to find another parts source. If it were me, given the age, I'd entirely replace all the springs. There are better quality ones readily available at reasonable prices.

In the first picture, is that some weld flash inside the bracket that shows the rub marking. The marks on the chain links in second picture don't appear to lineup. Ask for a new bracket.

Hold the cover in place and turn counter-clockwise until you feel/hear the threads engage, then turn clockwise until snug.

In the event of a coupling failure, crossed cables will not hold the tongue up and prevent it from digging in.

I've heard the X-Chock helps prevent side to side motion. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlXsECP9_ok

Assuming there isn’t a recurrent blockage in the pump inlet lines, try replacing the screened washer in the rear inlet with just a plain washer. If that doesn’t help, disconnect the flex-hose at the pump inlet filter and set the two valves to direct flow to/from the rear inlet. Use 30-50 psi compressed air at the flex-hose end to reverse clear the line. It may be possible that there is a connection leak allowing air to be sucked into the rear inlet line but that would have affected your previous sanitation efforts as well.

The Hehr p/n is H109-376. It comes in both black and white so be sure your source will permit you to specify which. I order Hehr parts from Pelland Enterprises pellandent.com (aka rvwindow.com). Great service.