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bhncb last won the day on October 2 2020

bhncb had the most liked content!

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My RV or Travel Trailer

  • Do you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, other travel trailer or none?
    I own an Oliver Travel Trailer
  • Year
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  • Model
    Legacy Elite II
  • Floor Plan
    Twin Bed Floor Plan

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  1. That looks like a firewall insulation, sucked into the filter by the fan. Telltail evidence is likely upstream in the intake ducting somewhere.
  2. Same new feature here when logged in. Either Chrome or Safari. Work around: Click on "Unread Content" at upper right then on "Activity" within the "Home > Activity > Unread Content" string at upper left.
  3. This dimension will be the same for all Tow & Stow models regardless of shank size or drop length. WIth the shank installed in the drop position, the highest bracket position is equivalent to a zero rise. Therefore, the height of the ball above the shank will be 2-1/2" for the 2" ball or 2-3/4" for the 2-5/16. Somebody with a digital caliper can make a liar out of me.
  4. Most WD hitches creak and groan. They were probably just admiring your rig.
  5. Oliver supplied a lug wrench set with the universal selection of sockets when I picked up my LEII. If they still do, just repurpose the handle and use the socket with your torque wrench. You will have to buy a short 1/2" drive extension however.
  6. Probably because he didn't have any to install.
  7. Another point to remember is that bearing don't have a recommended change interval. Don't just assume because they have 12,000 miles on them they're shot. The number one cause of trailer bearing failures is infrequent use and the subsequent corrosion or pitting that can occur due to grease contaminated by condensation/moisture forming inside the hub. Routine inspection and repacking, or more frequent supplanting of old grease, are the accepted ways to extend bearing life.
  8. There are a lot of unnecessary parts listed in that kit, some you can't even use. All you need are the bearing cones and races and a grease seal. Everything else can be reused unless you damage or lose something. The bearing sets are available for $5-6 and a seal is around $3-4. Those bearing part numbers listed are correct for your axles but they are also industry standard numbers that every bearing manufacturer uses. Timken specific numbers to search for a cone and race set are: SET17 (for the inner), SET4 (for the outer), and then 473336 for the seal, which may be in either a National
  9. There are two fittings on top of the EZ Flex. One points forward, the other toward the rear.
  10. The automatic switch between heat and cool alone is worth the price of admission to me. My only concern is whether the Penguin II is worthy of such a fine upgrade.
  11. Granted there is some speculation in my comments but, it's hard to tell the amount of purchase by the latch bolt because the strike plate engagement side of the bolt isn't visible in the second set of latch pictures. If the problem of coming unlatched underway doesn't occur if the door is pushed in until a final latch bolt "click" can be heard, then that is how mine has worked since new. As long as the dead bolt is not dragging on the strike plate or bottoming out on the door frame before full extension, I'd consider this to be a tight sealing door and wouldn't adjust anything.
  12. Looking at the first of the two strike plate pictures, it seems to me as thought the door frame was not properly prepared for the plate. In the picture, looking through the rectangular plate opening, you can see a portion of the door frame extending from the right until it breaks to the rear. On my 2018, this portion of the frame is cut out to allow for full extension of the two latch bolts. In this situation, I suspect the two bolts are bottoming out on the door frame before full engagement, which makes the latch bolt susceptible to becoming unlatched due to frame twist when the trailer is
  13. I seem to remember at least one manufacturer of external TPMS sensors recommending that a 1/2 ounce weight should be applied 180 degrees opposite the valve stem to counteract this additional weight.
  14. It is possible that a tire and wheel can be in balance without adding any weights. If the tire is match-mounted to the rim, whereby the lightest spot of the tire is aligned with the heaviest spot of the rim (usually the valve stem), a modern quality tire could very well be within a 1/2 ounce of being out of balance. In this situation, no added weight would be necessary to achieve an acceptable static (ie: single plane) balance. A dynamic, two plane, balance is rarely necessary for tires with an aspect ratio of 75 or greater especially on trailer applications. Any quality installer will as a ma
  15. I spoke with Jason Essary about the tire/wheel combo during my late 2018 LEII pre delivery inspection. He commented that they obtain the assemblies balanced, nitrogen filled, and inflated to 80 psi from their vendor. Further, that RVIA required them to specify 80 psi on the loading label. I suspect OTT mfg doesn't ever put a tire gauge on them.
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