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In the attic, there should be a small black pushbutton switch on the wall plate that has a 12V outlet and cable connection. Also a green led when it is on.

I've been following them for a while, in particular the DL170 now . The cold operating specs leaves me cold and surprised given their Dakota location. Maybe suitable for summer trolling but not winter ice fishing. For my needs, the 200 AH Lifeblue Oliver is offering seem like the best bet, assuming it's the low temp version.

Okay, I decided to start from scratch. What I have is a six page Word document with pictures. Anyone care to provide assistance with getting the contents into a reply?

If the kit is installed, the yellow flue plug and metal storage bracket should be on the access door like this.

Okay I'm working on a detailed writeup with pictures for my trailer's documentation package. I'll post this writeup, in it's entirety, on this topic. But be forewarned, I made my project way more involved than what others might deem necessary. That's just how I operate.

I added a PWM controller to slow the fan down and added a 3" vent through the vanity into the closet. 100 cfm seems way more than necessary for such a small area. I figure the combination of the additional vent and what can be drawn through the heat duct, with register dampers removed, is about 60 CFM. This is is still plenty and enough to prevent the fan from drawing black tank gases past the toilet seal. A side benefit of this setup is that the closet now has flow-through ventilation as well. My Ventline was still pretty new when I did this and the motor brushes had not yet seated. Initially at lower speeds the motor made a really annoying high pitched rotational chirping sound. This has subsided after a hundred or so hours and the fan is now nearly silent in the lower quarter of the rpm range. I also looked into the Maxxair but figured the additional cfm was unnecessary and undesirable. It also looks to have a plastic housing but not sure about this.

There are a couple of things to consider beyond the relatively limited reception of the Roadstar omni antenna. First, there is no AM support with this optional antenna so you'll have zero reception in this band. Maybe not a big deal for most but it is still a viable band for longer range reception and a supported mode of the entertainment system that won't work. Second, the Winegard Roadstar antenna is being, or has been, phased out and replaced by the Air 360 product line with improved performance. At some point Oliver will have to offer an alternative. I have one but wouldn't given a do-over. Much better solutions have been suggested. When needed, I use the flat Winegards RAZAR Amplified in a window. For AM/FM, an amplified Jensen Marine windshield antenna is taped to the outer shell in the attic, above insulation. Both solutions work better than the "old" Roadstar mounted on the roof.

Most want to go with the maximum AH that will fit in the tray. For the LEII this would typically be 4 GC2 12v 100AH or 2-3 higher 150-200 AH 12V in some form. Putting in 4 6v lithium batteries doesn't make much sense unless you just have some laying around.

I wouldn't sacrifice the fold up storage for the additional screen size of a 32. It will probably ride okay in the down position but seems to me, with the additional width, it will always be in the way. The 28" Transit hangs over the sides of the nightstand about 2 inches which isn't such a big deal. Before committing, I'd check the dimensions of the 32 Jensen carefully with a cardboard template to see if you can live with the size. As far as the sound bar: I thought about maybe adding a small external one but we always run the TV sound through the DV3300 speakers using ARC mode, which is satisfactory for now. I did however replace the speakers with 6.5" Pioneers which are much cleaner than the 5" Jensens. The Transit operate like I expect a TV to operate. The Furrion was immediate frustration from the first time I powered it on. Slow remote command response and some inopportune screen menu timeouts were my main issues with it, aside from the postage stamp screen size. The Transit is a bit more expensive and you loose the second/redundant DVD player but I have no regrets.

I tow my LEII on occasion with a 2013 SWB 3500 that has the suspension seat option. While generally great, there are times when towing that I have to lock out the suspension function because it can get annoying on undulating road surfaces. Seasick comes to mind. I looked into the VB air suspension but this would eliminated my ability to carry the spare tire and reduce the tow capacity to 5000#. Both of these negatives were show-stoppers for me. With 600 or so pounds on the hitch ball, the 3500 ride is much improved making the high cost of the VB upgrade hard to justify. The older 5-speed transmission models definitely needs more gears and I've though about trading just for this reason. Towing in the mountains is a slow go to keep within the power band. I also tried the ScanGauge method but eventually found it to be a distraction, relying on the tachometer and my senses instead. I like how the vans tows and love the extra room inside where it's protected. Fuel mileage for mine averages 20 mpg not towing and 16+- with the 6000# trailer. The height of a 2 WD high roof is the same as the LEII. Loaded weights and lengths are really close. Not sure all this has anything to do with the stability but cross-wind from passing truck and busses is virtually unnoticeable. All in all, compared to my Land Cruiser, the Sprinter is not as comfortable on the long hauls, or as versatile when we plan to go exploring, but it certainly is capable.

Btw I just replaced mine for the same reason. The original (2018) window was installed with double stick foam tape and the gap/joint around was sealed with silicone. I heard they had switched to the butyl sealant instead of the foam tape but assumed silicone was then applied to finish the job.

I agree with Andrew. Bet they didn't use silicone at all. Try a little mineral spirits on a rag and see if if softens and wipes off. If so, dig as much out as you can with plastic blade or orange stick, wipe it clean with the spirits, and silicone the groove after it drys good.

I found these power strips in the electrical department at a local Walmart. Not exactly sure where in the county I was but had to be either SD KY or VA. These are rated for 13 amps so they'll handle any appliance up to 1500 watts. But since the trailer circuit is only 15 amps, you really need to plan appliance usage when cooking. The strip in the galley is attached with 3M VHB tape because I didn't plan on ever having to remove it. The other I put up with 3M Dual Lock strips so it can be removed if desired. Also, the additional height provided by the closet door outlet strip does make using a hair dryer with 6' cord possible inside the bath. I have replaced the original mirror with a larger one however. For the same reason I stated before, Oliver probably does not drill the hole for the cord pass-thru unless the microwave is being installed. In mine, it is just a rough drilled hole concealed by the mat in the overhead. It shouldn't be too difficult to do something a bit more finished looking. Someone mentioned that their 2020 did not have outlets on the night stand or down low on the sides under the bunk extensions. If these have in fact been deleted from later models, assuming it's a twin, I would make it clear to Oliver that the sale is dependent on them being added. I really find this unbelievable since we use these outlets continually more than any of the others.

Here's the situation with the galley outlet and how I resolved a cord length issue. This was the only inconvenience we encountered. The TV is 12V so no plugin necessary. That outlet in the attic is intended to serve a satellite box if needed. For us the hair dryer goes in the outlet below the closet door. I also have a short extension on this one, which raises it about 12 inches. We sometimes plug a small personal heater in and this gets it up above the floor the recommended minimum distance. I doubt Oliver will be receptive to moving an outlet inside the storage cabinet. There is too much potential for heat damage or worse.

In addition, there is an outlet in the hanging closet, in the overhead cabinet above refrigerator, and one on each side of the rear nightstand.