Winter heating with a small electric heater

[Galileo]

We’re wrapping up a 7 month camping trip that included some higher elevations and temps down to high teens in NM, Utah, Nevada. We used a plain old “milk house heater” that Ace or pretty much any hardware store carries. It says it’s 1500 watts. 

I haven’t tracked down the major air leak at the rear curbside of our LE2 - that’s a project for December. But suffice it to say that with the amount of cold air that blows in the furnace outlets - the “leak” is serious. 

In cold weather and trying to keep the thermostat at 68 - we’ve gone through a 20# tank of propane in just two or three days - so electric heat is a huge savings as we rarely boondock. 

Im actually going to be looking for an electric furnace or duct heater to have a more elegant option than the space heater. 

I’m also looking into adding one or more electric point if use water heaters - as the having the propane water heater located 15 feet from the bathroom sink is an epic engineering fail. 

[Steve Morris]

1 hour ago, Galileo said:

I’m also looking into adding one or more electric point if use water heaters - as the having the propane water heater located 15 feet from the bathroom sink is an epic engineering fail.

Several of us have added a simple recirculating valve to the bathroom hot water. Add a diverter in the hot water feed line under the bathroom vanity, with the return line going to a T in the tank fill line. Some of us have also added a separate shower mixer while under there.

 

I too have a crazy amount of cold air coming in through the hot air return under the curb side bed when not using the furnace. I attribute it to having the roof vent open to keep moisture down, hot air rising, and drawing in cold air somewhere.

Hank White removed most of the basement partitions, added a fixed 110V heater under the nightstand, and then a circulating fan under each bed, one facing aft and the other forward. He says an added benefit is that this also heats the floor a bit.

[Galileo]

3 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:

Several of us have added a simple recirculating valve to the bathroom hot water. Add a diverter in the hot water feed line under the bathroom vanity, with the return line going to a T in the tank fill line. Some of us have also added a separate shower mixer while under there.

 

I too have a crazy amount of cold air coming in through the hot air return under the curb side bed when not using the furnace. I attribute it to having the roof vent open to keep moisture down, hot air rising, and drawing in cold air somewhere.
 

Hey Steve,

I’d read here about a couple of owners adding a recirculating system to have hot water available quickly upon opening the tap. I’m not sure that would be “simple” compared to installing a small in-line point of use water heater. Of course, in the bathroom, I’d have to run 110vac there - but less work and hardware than a recirculation system. 

As for the cold air “leak” (more like an open window…) mine occurs with the MaxxFan closed - and the air coming in the furnace vents and return grill is a breeze.

I Mentioned in a previous post that the whole aft starboard corner of the trailer are ice cold with associated condensation problems. I didn’t think burning more propane was a practical or efficient solution to an obvious air infiltration problem. 

I haven’t sleuthed it out yet - but the door hinge area is a prime suspect - as the door weatherstrip goes -under- the screen door hinges.  I’m also wondering if the (Domentic) A/C has a fresh air exchange that can’t be switched on or off like some units have. 

[Galileo]

28 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:
Hank White removed most of the basement partitions, added a fixed 110V heater under the nightstand, and then a circulating fan under each bed, one facing aft and the other forward. He says an added benefit is that this also heats the floor a bit.

I’d like to hear more about what kind (brand, model) was installed  - as our floor is typically ice-cold. Though I assume it’s due to the cold air infiltration, it could be just from the frigid air blowing in from the furnace ducts and return grille. A radiant floor heat would be a first-class upgrade to the Ollie. 

[Steve Morris]

3 hours ago, Galileo said:

3 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

I’d like to hear more about what kind (brand, model) was installed

From Hank’s FB post:

”Camping Northern Florida. 31F this morning and a very comfortable 76F inside. A small space heater on the low setting only. 12VDC warming blankets on the beds. Using only 11 amps shore power. Basement temperature is holding at 66F. 
Two small 12VDC fans, one port and one stbd side keep a gentle air flow circulating thru the basement. With the bathroom vanity port open, cabin air is flowing into the basement and returning thru the return grill below the bed. 
The basement partitions have been removed and a 700W Xtreme heater is mounted inside (auto on at 43F off at 55F) for very cold conditions. 
Last week camping at 14F the Xtreme heater did come on to maintain a temperature well above freezing in the basement while we were gone.”

 

If you are a member of the Oliver Owners of America facebook group, look up member Hank White, and scroll through his group posts. This one was from January 2025, with several photo. Hank has done a *lot* of cool modifications, and having seen them in person, I’ve added several to my list to things to do. 

[Galileo]

Sounds like a good idea.

I typically like to keep my vehicles as “stock” as possible as I’ve found a lot of aftermarket accessories to be pretty poorly made and (IMHO) detract from the value of something rather than enhance it. I’m generally a firm believer in the people who designed, built, and service a specific item being more expert on that item than I am. I also realize that I’m unlikely to live forever and be the only owner of a vehicle, so I like to have it as OEM as possible to retain resale value.

That said - when I see obvious poor design, construction, or installation - like HUGE air infiltration issues, or duct routing on a furnace that chokes off airflow or has such long runs that no air flow can be felt at a vent when the blower is running - THEN I’ll carefully consider and select ways to improve upon something that was poorly done from the factory.