HOW TO: Isotherm Intelligent Control for Cruise 130 Refrigerator

[John E Davies]

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9168-how-to-install-an-isotherm-cruise-130-2-way-refrigerator-in-an-le2/

This looked so easy, and it turned into a can of worms right away.The installation instructions seemed concise, but there were a lot of frustrating errors, omissions and vague statements like "Connect all the lettered wires to each other properly".

+Isotherm Intelligent Temperature Control (ITC) BoatTest.com article.pdf

John Davies

Spokane WA

[John E Davies]

I routed the control cable up through the back of the microwave cabinet.

This shows the retaining clip, one at each end, you must pry them in gently to remove it.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[John E Davies]

Install the sensor inside the fridge cabinet, fortunately on this model the holes are marked by dimples. Drill the center one only all the way through and out the back. The outer two are shallow.:

John Davies

Spokane WA

[John E Davies]

Wiring... Hoo boy, this was very bad. Here is the terminal strip as delivered. Black and Red are 12 volts DC negative and positive. It is crowded as can be but secure and neat looking.

Here are the two provided adapter cables:

It took me 30 minutes to figure out how they went "letter to letter". Initial test run, no smoke, the compressor ran quietly and cooled!

It took me less than five seconds to decide that there is no way that sort of Rube Goldberg mess would survive a bumpy trailer ride. I decided to run all the connections up to a bus strip near the top front. Unplugged the old unused thermostat wires (from inside the fridge), secured them and heat shrinked them;

Here is the electrical noise suppressor (capacitor), which came apart in my hands as I was inspecting it. Note: You cannot just stick a tiny bare wire into a big crimp connector and expect it to be secure:

Soldered it, heat shrinked it, ran the unit up top.

This is heavy self-adhesive heat shrink, with the open end crimped with pliers while hot, no moisture can get in:

Here is how I made insulated boots for the new 1/4" female spade wire terminals that had to go onto that very crowded terminal strip at the compressor.

 

[John E Davies]

See this related thread for more pics of the wiring:

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9168-how-to-install-an-isotherm-cruise-130-2-way-refrigerator-in-an-le2/

Note: West Marine stores typically carry both of those items.

Temp sensor wires run straight up the back to the bus bar. All the nylon wire pads are drilled with a stainless #6x1/2” screw added so they will all still be firmly attached fifty years from now, for the tenth Ollie owner. I made a heavy air baffle to direct cool cabin air up to the condenser coils, rather than just having it wander aimlessly around inside the cabinet (there is a huge airspace between fridge and hull, over 6”.) The screws go into threaded nutcerts.

"Harness B" is the trailer DC power and ground, and the three original control wires that I extended (brown, green and yellow); from the opposite side of the bus strip, they run down to their three appropriate terminals at the compressor. “Harness C" is the 120 Volt AC shore power wire, coming from the Oliver outlet under the galley sink. "Harness A" is ALL the wiring going down to the compressor, NOT EVER to be disturbed for normal service. Note that I labelled the noise suppressor and also the LED light wires which go down into the fridge  cabinet.

To remove the fridge, simply unscrew the five Harness B screws, unplug Harness C at the compressor, and clip some cable ties. Out she slides. Or you can leave it all connected for troubleshooting with a volt ohm meter, if you support the fridge on a 7' tall support box.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

[John E Davies]

One issue appeared on the first night camping, the display is BRIGHT, it is very much like a small pocket flashlight!:

I added four pieces of Post It notes on top to kill the glare, I need to figure out a more elegant solution. I may try some LED Light Dim Stickers that I have used elsewhere inside "Mouse".

The advisory sticker is mine, made with my new DYMO LabelManager 420P.;) ECO runs the compressor at slower speeds and tries to save as much battery power as possible. ITC runs it up to full rpms, and also super cools the fridge while on shore power or when getting extra power from the truck when towing. Note the two black dots I added with a Sharpie, they show the location of the two pry points for removing the panel.

So far after a five night trip, the system works great. It seems to consume very little power but it is very hard to quantify that. I am hoping that it will be efficient enough that I will not have to add another 100 AH battery to my two existing Battle Born ones.

BTW I am pretty sure that Oliver does not install this Intelligent Control with their new Isotherm fridges, can anyone comment about that? If so, I would love to see some pictures!

.John Davies
Spokane WA

[John E Davies]

Here is the Removal and Service Notes for the Owners Manual:

+Isotherm Cruise 130 2-Way Compressor Refrigerator Removal and Service Notes Hull 218 “Mouse” .pages

John Davies

Spokane WA

[SeaDawg]

Thank you do very much for your detailed information. 

As always,  the best. 

[John E Davies]

Fixed the glare from the display. I trimmed it from a larger piece, it covers the silver surround/ border and looks factory. it is no longer a bother at night, but still readable in bright light. 

LIGHTDIMS Original Strength - Light Dimming LED Covers and Light Dimming Sheets

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

 

 

[MAX Burner]

First pic - isn't viewable, FYI...

[John E Davies]

1 hour ago, MAX Burner said:

First pic - isn't viewable, FYI...

Thanks, I am in a location where the cell signal seems to vanish sometimes for no reason and it really confuses the forum software. Fixed.

John Davies

Spokane WA