MAX Burner

Good anti-water intrusion fix...

@Bill and Nancy: BRAVO/ZULU, Brother! Well Done.

Problem: We've had our OTT for several months now, and still getting used to the "in's and out's" of the rig. One item that's been bugging us is that there wasn't a way to energize the water pump when occupying the head. WHAT? Background: So, the PO decided to remove the "cubby" shelf under the bathroom sink which housed the factory WP switch and LED and replaced it with a 2-dog marine-grade hatch to access space in the forward area under the sink for additional storage. I get that, 100%. However, they didn't (for unknown reasons) reposition the switch/LED before completing their mod. This was either an oversight, or running out of time, or outside their wheelhouse, or... whatever, it doesn't really matter. There's a modification project that's hatching here. After rooting around (with my vintage 6-foot frame) on the shower pan looking into the forward-most storage void, lo and behold, the WP switch AND LED wires were found wrapped-up and tucked away. The 5 wire-bundle of switch/LED circuits were fully intact and operational. Whew! Right? Fix: Ok! Let's figure out a logical placement of this, what we consider, a non-trivial feature to have working correctly in a proper RV head. I decided to reach out to a couple members for their thoughts (many thanks to JD and Geronimo John) - another huge benefit of the OTT Forum. Several ideas surfaced to include repositioning the switch/LED on the upper bath cabinet near the existing light switch or on the port side of the sink cabinet. We opted for the side of the sink cabinet. Below are some pix of the repositioning modification we knocked-out yesterday: 1. Carefully measured, marked, pilot-drilled, and drilled switch hole: 2. We chose the area below the TP Compartment because it would seem to give more "anti-water intrusion protection" than the space above the TP holder. 3. Measured, marked and drilled LED hole: 4. Used a couple drops of Gorilla Instant Glue for the LED mounting placement. After glue cured, applied clear silicone to provide additional water resistance: 5. Let there be light... The rubber-booted "marine-grade" switch should be fine in this environment and away from a direct shot from the shower head much like its original factory position in the upper area of the cubby shelf. We debated actually posting this to the Ollie-World because it would seem to us that it's a "one-of-a-kind" modification. However, if anyone else out there has a similar situation, hopefully this may be of help. At least for now, we'll no longer be stranded in the head during one of those middle of the night "needs" without being able to flush... Cheers!

Of course there are! HA!

That would be way COOL. Get on it, brother! HA!

@topgun2: Will this unit control more than one LED circuit?

It would be interesting to find a supplier for "dimmable" LEDs and adding rheostats for the master switch panel patio and courtesy lights. SOBs out there have this feature.

Welcome to the OTT Family! Be sure to refer to the forums for virtually anything Oliver-related - its simply a wealth of information, experience, and friendship. Working with the folks at the factory and supplemented with support from the forum forms a base of knowledge for you to handle just about any conceivable issue. Enjoy the ride... it will be a life-changer as you're entering into retirement! 😎

We got our's on that sale...

We're looking forward to trying out manual shifting at altitude on our upcoming trip to Hopewell Lake in northern NM. The last half of the trip is a 75-mile run above 6k'MSL up to the campground at 9.8k'. I'm thinking keeping the RPMs above 2100-2000 in the highest possible gear might be a starting point to determine best MPG. Thoughts?

OK... So, "D" and I are "dog-folks". This feature is exactly why we installed a Micro Air Model 351 last week. So long as we have a wifi signal and Magnus is bannished to the Ollie (on rare occasions only) - we can monitor his environment. What we do for our 4-legged family members.... right? Piece of mind.

Welcome! But hey? Where's the Command Master Chief for this crew? HA!

Welcome!

Try some CRC Brake Parts Cleaner - then hit the Bulldog mechanism with some high quality spray lube... There should be no "sticking-up" - you'll know when you're done when its all smooth in every direction!

Guys... don't do the following: ...everyone in the Ollie's asleep, dark-out, freezing cold, blowing rain & wind: MAX wakes up, sez to D, "Hey, baby - I'm thinking Magnus needs to pee - how about switching over the tanks while you're out there, eh?"

We're wondering if there's there a 12VDC recirculating pump available to install at the water heater output? One could switch on the recirc pump for a dozen or so seconds before turning on the hot water valve in the head... just a thought.

Same here... Just ordered, free shipping - same price point. Thanks for the vector, @Ty J

Blue Tooth, brother! Blue Tooth!!! HA!

We made the same run into Chaco Canyon WITH our AS tires aired-down to 20psi - we spent a half-day replacing popped rivets. We would not consider either the north or south approach to Chaco in the OTT without airing WAY down and keeping the speed below 15-20MPH.

Nice RACK!

It's sounding like PD is suggesting an upgrade of the converter section of the converter/charger: Or are we missing something? Our Ollie is a '17 also, but isn't behaving as @Going Coastal has described... it appears to function correctly without crickets.

OK, guys - FULL DISCLOSURE: When rigging this flush system yesterday, we were discussing where the displaced air from the waste tank is venting... So about 8 or 9 gallons into the first "flush", I have the brilliant idea to inspect the commode ball valve. After a "mini-Old Faithful" shooting up a foot from the ball valve, I realized it was NOT a brilliant idea. All good in the "end" - so to speak... Whew!

Not only fully Off-Road capable, it would probably have no issues dragging an OTT around the area - albeit not very fast, and not with stellar fuel mileage... HA!

IMO, this post "sort of" fits the thread, and would fit others just as loosely, but we picked this one anyway because the posts were well thought-out and germane to what follows... 1. A few weeks ago, we ordered and received a "Flush-King" gate valve assembly to aid in determining the quality of the black water tank flushing operation. There's other assemblies available that provide the same function, but this one seemed to better fit the OTT dump system. Since our first stage dump hose stays permanently connect to the OTT dump exhaust flange, it's a simple procedure to place the Flush-King between the first and second stage hoses. Final phase dump hoses connect to the downstream end of the FK and then over to our dump station. The FK has a ball-valved garden hose attachment that is upstream from its gate valve (see above pic). We didn't believe this attachment was necessary for Casablanca since the OTT has the "Waste Water Holding Tank" fill attachment discussed ad nausium in several threads. The FK located close to the Ollie makes it convenient for us to observe the color of the waste because of the 30+ foot distance to our dump/septic connection - in other words, we no longer need to run back and forth from the dump connection to the trailer to control dump valves, water flow, tank fill progress, etc. 2. We attached a digital flow meter to the waste water holding tank fill inlet to monitor the amount of water flowing into the tank - also monitoring the See Level gauge for comparison, so as not to over fill the tank. The See Level digital readout closely agreed with the digital flow meter as the tank was filled - this added a level confidence with the See Level system. Upstream from the flow meter we attached a brass ball valve to control the fresh water flow from outside the RV and provide an additional safety check for potential interior check valve failure and subsequent back-flow of effluent into our fragile fresh water system. 3. The waste water system took 3 flushes (54 gallons) to observe clear discharge at the FK assembly. The discharge was clear and without debris when complete. We filled the waste tank with 2 gallons of fresh water to keep from drying out until our next adventure. Any thoughts of other steps that we're missing or have omitted? Cheers - even though this is a "S**TY" job...

Here's the model number from our Amazon order receipt: The unit comes with a 6" extension sleeve. You will need to trim the sleeve to your roof thickness. Our OTT roof thickness at the 6" diameter vent hole is 2 1/4". We placed the 6" sleeve inside the hole, allowed 3/4" to protrude inside for the trim piece/LED housing, and marked the exact thickness so as to determine how much needed to be trimmed. The length of the sleeve needed was 2 7/8". We used clear silicone around the upper sleeve circumference and roof vent hole for additional waterproofing. Fitment was good - especially considering that the fan hole location is not flat, being slightly curved - be very careful when torquing both the upper housing screws and the decorative trim piece/LED housing screws because one could (IMO) crack the housings if over-torqued. The housings will "bend" slightly to match the interior concave curvature of the ceiling and the exterior convex curvature of the roof. We washed Casablanca after the install and heavily watered the area around the new vent for several minutes - no leaks detected/dry as a bone in the head. Hope this helps, brother! Cheers... PS: 1. The old Ventline unit is spoken for by another member and will be shipped today. 2. This model MAXXAIR has the conveniently accessible inline fuse that @SeaDawg mentioned above, FYI.