Problem with city water connection

[Ospreybob]

Water leaks out of the city water connection when nothing is connected to it and we run the pump.  I am thinking that the check valve in the city water line is not working.  Anyone have experience with this problem?  Can I get to the check valve so it can be replaced?  Thanks in advance for your advice!  Bob

[rich.dev]

Yes it might be check valve, but look into the inlet of your fresh and city water connectors, you will see a hex. (I think its 1/2”) fitting like the below piture, tighten that hex. fitting and hopefully that will solve your proble. .

 

[jd1923]

It would need the hex tightened when leaking upon hookup. Since the City Water is leaking when running the pump from the Fresh Tank, it must be the backflow preventer (check valve).

You have no sig, so can't tell hull number, but for ours in 2016 these are in the back of the basement/trunk (see pic).

[Geronimo John]

3 hours ago, rich.dev said:

Yes it might be check valve, but look into the inlet of your fresh and city water connectors, you will see a hex. (I think its 1/2”) fitting like the below piture, tighten that hex. fitting and hopefully that will solve your proble. .

A bolt head of the right size is a suitable substitute for a very large Allen Wrench.

GJ

[Ospreybob]

5 hours ago, Ospreybob said:

Water leaks out of the city water connection when nothing is connected to it and we run the pump.  I am thinking that the check valve in the city water line is not working.  Anyone have experience with this problem?  Can I get to the check valve so it can be replaced?  Thanks in advance for your advice!  Bob

 

1 hour ago, jd1923 said:

It would need the hex tightened when leaking upon hookup. Since the City Water is leaking when running the pump from the Fresh Tank, it must be the backflow preventer (check valve).

You have no sig, so can't tell hull number, but for ours in 2016 these are in the back of the basement/trunk (see pic).

 

[Ospreybob]

Thanks, folks, for all the great input.  Much appreciated!  I'll try to tighten the hex as a first step.  I appreciate the large bolt suggestion!  

We own hull 747.

If it is a bad check valve, is the valve separate from the city water fitting or integrated into it?

Bob Frank

[Wayfinder]

@jd1923 I also have a 2016 (#110). I think my check valve to the city water inlet has gone bad. I have not truly identified the check valve itself, but I am surprised to see both City and Fresh inlets have 40-50 lb pressure regulators in the basement.  Good to know.  At least we have less of a chance of plowing a line from the inlet to the pressure regulator.

Would these also contain a check valve within?  I don't want to undo anything unnecessarily. I'll check the hex nut/screw inside the intlets too, but they don't seem large enough for an actual check valve. 

If the dirt cover is not screwed onto the city inlet, and the water pump is turned on, water does come out of the city inlet.  Just discovered by accident this weekend.

 

 

[jd1923]

5 minutes ago, Wayfinder said:

I am surprised to see both City and Fresh inlets have 40-50 lb pressure regulators in the basement.

Yep, still on my list to remove both check valves and water restrictors, clean up the check valves and reinstall on both lines. Toss the restrictors and then add a true external water pressure regulator.

If I run on City Water it’s always slower (less GPM) than the new variable speed water pump I installed. I have recently noticed that I can run on City Water and turn the water pump on to get a good volume of water when needed.

[Wayfinder]

Lee on FB showed pointed me at the check valves. I was looking right at them, but didn't know for sure if those were the check valves. 

Updated pick. 

I ordered three of them to keep a spare when someone at a rally needs one. It's going into my parts list/log.
 

Edited June 28 by Wayfinder

[Wayfinder]

On 3/6/2024 at 11:36 AM, rich.dev said:

Yes it might be check valve, but look into the inlet of your fresh and city water connectors, you will see a hex. (I think its 1/2”) fitting like the below piture, tighten that hex. fitting and hopefully that will solve your proble. .

 

This is likely fixed after a year after posting, but I did notice there is no rubber seal inside the inlet.  That would certainly leak like crazy with a host hooked up.

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, Wayfinder said:

I ordered three of them to keep a spare when someone at a rally needs one.

Ours work as designed after 10 years. Not an easy campsite install unless you’re very small. My size, I can’t reach them and that’s why the job is still on my to-do list! 🤣

[Wayfinder]

18 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Ours work as designed after 10 years. Not an easy campsite install unless you’re very small. My size, I can’t reach them and that’s why the job is still on my to-do list! 🤣

yeah, it won't be fun in the heat for sure.  I'm 6'2" at 183 lbs.  I can do it, but will need to think what I need before I crawl inside.... to reduce the cursing at Oliver.  LOL

 

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, Wayfinder said:

yeah, it won't be fun in the heat for sure.  I'm 6'2" at 183 lbs.  I can do it, but will need to think what I need before I crawl inside.... to reduce the cursing at Oliver.  LOL

 

Same height, 220 lbs here and no way my shoulders fit. I can just touch the line with one hand, then there goes my neck!

I’ll ask my son to get in there and remove the two end screw fittings. Then I’ll make the replacement parts, longer PEX to make up for the restrictor delete. New check valves likely unless the originals clean easy with CLR which would be preferred to leave those connections alone.

Then Adam again to reinstall. I might need a six-pack on ice for my helper! 🤣

[Wayfinder]

@jd1923 I will take pics of my check valves. Will be interesting to see if it's "gunk" or failed plastic.  

[Wayfinder]

My #110 had different check valves than suggested by Lee on FB.  But I was easily able to make them work without issue.  The camper originally had Valterra P23402LF 1/2" (with male & female threads), with a male-to-male extender. This was a super quick job and tested for leaks with 65-70 PSI on the newly connected valves.

I used the ones I ordered anyways (Valterra P23415LF 1/2"), which were shorter without an extender. The pipes had plenty of "play" to have the ends come closer together to make the P23415LF work just fine.  Some trailers are naturally (and always) a bit different.

There was no "gunk" whatsoever inside either of the old check valves, but I'm sure the old rubber seals inside dried up.  So, maybe change these too every eight years or so.  And the parts list grows.

Some pics as always.