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Meta thread of small mods and things I got for the trailer and found worked well, for your entertainment and interest … First up, the Kelty Trash Pak garbage bag It’s big and fits perfectly attached to the front Seabiscuit box. Made to attach to a back spare tires or other places, there’s lots of strapping so plenty of options. If animals are around you can hang it or put it in the truck. It’s waterproof, super sturdy and big enough to separate out compose vegetable scraps, recycling and trash. Quick, it’s been discontinued and is on sale for $90, so get it while you can if interested from Kelty, REI or or favorite outlet. Second in that picture is the Icon Trailer lock. If you follow lock picking - like the Lock Picking Lawyer channel where he picks hitch locks in under a minutes, you’ll know that most locks don’t slow anybody down who has a little determination. Brute force they can drill out, either the cylinder or the body. This lock is nearly immune to all that. Case hardened steel with a structure that’s hard to cut. Anti drill spinner on the lock, and a tumbler system that’s very difficult to pick. In addition I have a chain around the wheels that’s similarly hard to remove, I’ll detail that later. Finally in that picture is CG Gear RV mat over by the door. It’s double layer loose woven plastic material that was designed for helicopter temporary pads for the US Air Force. They needed something that could be thrown down in the field apparently which wouldn't hold dirt or sand. Indeed it just drops through and it always stays clean.

there is also reference to the "little yellow Zerk Covers/caps" that has a collar that will fit around the zerks, and the cap which will cover the bearing where the grease is introduced. "we may have broken some leaf springs to and from Alaska & TUK, but we had the cleanest Zerk fittings on the ALCAN..." B~Out

Don't le me put you out. Searching prior posts with a key word zerk is a bit overwhelming. I got 187 pages. That is a an idea. I did try that. I have a lot of equipment with zerks. Easy to take out and clean. I don't think the Oliver zerks come out. Normally I just take a socket and screw them out. There is no nut-like shape to the Oliver zerks.

I'm sorry but I do not currently have the time to look for the rather long discussions about zerks not taking grease that we have had previously here on the Forum. Nor have I recently looked at the video. But, many of the zerk issues can be resolved by taking the load off the the suspension or making sure that the little ball in the end of the zerk is not stuck shut. If it is a zerk "ball" problem then the solution is to free that ball by tapping (gently) with something like a "nail set" or replacing the zerk (these are not expensive and are available at NAPA and most other automotive stores and/or Tractor Supply and the like. Hope this helps! Bill

I don't know what audio equipment you have, so this is probably not relevant. However, my system also had sync issues and it sounded like an echo chamber. This was because the Furrion stereo and Vizio TV were connected together with both HDMI ARC and Optical Audio cables. Sometimes the TV speakers would come on through the Optical cable, at the same time the stereo speakers were on from the HDMI. The Optical and HDMI have known sync issues and there is no reason to have both in this configuration. The Optical should be disconnected because sometimes it takes a minute to realize what's going on. I just finished replacing that awful Furrion unit, and my only regret is not doing it a long time ago! I replaced it because of the poor controls and Bluetooth, and I had also planned to replace the speakers for better sound. But the new unit works and sounds great, so I'm keeping the speakers! Cheers! Geoff

no problem. B~Out

I have three zerks that will not take grease. I understand why. Does anyone have a suggestion on how I can get them to take grease. I am not expecting any real revelation, but you folks amaze me all the time.

I have watched the video Multiple times

Sorry about that - I should have checked before I opened my mouth 😵‍💫. Or, I should read better in that you were referring to the Missouri River - NOT the State. In any case - While I too live in a fairly "rural" area it is not quite as "out there" as you are. If it helps (I really doubt this) I too have had "issues" with deliveries. Just this past week a new pair of hiking boots that were supposed to be delivered in 3 to 5 days actually took almost three weeks! Of course I agree with you in that the rural lifestyle does have its advantages - the bear walking through the yard this morning and the bobcat last week. Heck, I was stopped at a traffic light the other day as the 4th vehicle back and complained that we now have "traffic jams"! Bill

Bill, if we lived in "Missoura", we might have the part in a day or two... However, we are in West Central North Dakota,,, when I track orders, usually it is "UPS", it may say "out for delivery" for a couple of days until it arrives. Not to say the rural lifestyle does not have its advantages. Our nearest (one i have had the best luck with) RV service center is about 360+mi & 6hrs R/T. However, a google search now shows an RV service center in Williston ND. Tomorrow when they open, and if they have the part... i will head north 90 miles r/t to buy it, and while there evaluate their Service Center. B~Out

Thanks @topgun2, didn’t think of a service request but I’m not sure there’s much so solve other than a different solution, it’s just a design decision It’s entirely possible this is just me and others are happy with the speakers; I put the post up to see if that’s the case. Please chime in if you like it. I had heard they originally went with this from owner feedback so its probably just me. On the technical issues … On the LED’s they can be disabled via a button according to the manual, which is for a somewhat different model. This model doesn’t have that button. On the lip sync lag you can set a bluetooth delay in the TV to a negative value. However the sync is fine for the built in apps, it’s just external HDMI. So I’d need to switch it back and forth.

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Gemini gave me this.. Florida has a wide network of mobile RV technicians covering everything from the Panhandle to South Florida. These services are particularly useful for on-site repairs at campgrounds or homes, avoiding the need for towing. Central Florida Reliable RV Inspections & Mobile Repair 4.9 📍 Car repair and maintenance service Closed· Opens 8:00 AM Mon Reliable RV Inspections & Mobile Repair Click to open side panel for more information serves the Leesburg and larger Central Florida area. Known for high-quality inspections and mobile repairs, particularly for A/C units and electrical issues. Reviewers frequently mention their professional diagnostics and prompt communication. They offer a range of services from regular maintenance to emergency breakdown assistance. Northern Florida & Gainesville Area Honest RV Mobile Repair 4.9 📍 Car repair and maintenance service Honest RV Mobile Repair Click to open side panel for more information provides service throughout Gainesville, Alachua, and High Springs. This family and veteran-owned business specializes in complex diagnostics, including slide-out repairs and solar installations. Customers highlight their transparency regarding pricing and the technician's ability to explain mechanical issues clearly. They are fully certified and insured for on-site residential and campsite work. Florida Panhandle A&D Repairs LLC 4.3 🔧 Car repair and maintenance service Closed· Opens 8:00 AM Mon A&D Repairs LLC Click to open side panel for more information is located in Panama City and handles heavy-duty vehicle and RV repairs. They are a strong choice for mechanical and chassis issues, including diesel engine and transmission work. Their mobile service includes roadside assistance for jumpstarts, fuel delivery, and tire repairs. They utilize industry-grade diagnostic equipment on-site to assess repair needs quickly. Gulf Coast & Southwest Florida Alpha Side RV Services 5.0 📍 Car repair and maintenance service Closed· Opens 12:00 AM Mon Alpha Side RV Services Click to open side panel for more information operates out of the Sarasota area with a focus on comprehensive mobile care. They are available for a wide variety of repairs, including plumbing, electrical systems, and general maintenance. Reviewers appreciate their 24-hour availability for most of the week, making them a reliable option for urgent needs. The service is fully mobile, traveling directly to your parked location. South Central Florida Taylor’s Mobile RV Repair LLC 5.0 📍 Car repair and maintenance service Closed· Opens 8:00 AM Mon Taylor’s Mobile RV Repair LLC Click to open side panel for more information serves the Bartow and Lakeland regions. They specialize in full-service mobile repair, including appliance fixes and system troubleshooting. Customers often note their punctuality and efficiency in completing repairs on-site. They maintain a high rating for customer satisfaction across various types of RV rigs. Are you looking for a technician in a specific city, or do you need help with a particular type of repair like solar or A/C?

So noted. Thank you for that.

I guess that it does "pay" to read those manuals? What? Y'all ain't got no Pony Express over there in Missoura? 😇 Bill

Have you submitted a Service Ticket? If not, how is Oliver supposed to know of your problems with it? Perhaps they can help and even if they can't help, they have valuable input. I also dislike the number of LED's in my Ollie. However, other than a playing card a much more elegant solution for those of us who are a bit light sensitive is to use something like THIS. Again - see my first point above. Its hard to believe that there isn't a fairly simple way to change this function. Again - a Service Ticket is your highway to (possible) solution. Finally - Perhaps you have not read THIS POST on the Forum. Please note the 8th post down from the top of page three in this thread where Oliver has sent an "Open Letter" to owners-members of the Forum. Of special note is the 7th (last) paragraph of the letter. Bill

CG Detailing the ‘27, closeup of some external details. The solar awnings wiring just goes through a cut in panel in the roof valley https://youtube.com/piIq8nEy4eY

White like the original cream colored ones. But they started to get pin holes in them so Jason sent me a whole new set of white ones. Love those blinds!!!!! They really do black out!

I hate this thing, it’s the one thing in this trailer I don’t like. Problems with it … Oliver has the wrong manual in the University Lots of dumb LED’s. First is the power light right over the curbside head of the bed, I stuck a playing card over it It does a bunch of dumb color changing out of the speakers while it plays (I can’t see anything in the manual on how to turn it off, if the manual is similar enough) DVD input has a terrible lib sync lag - it’s awful, unusable It has to be manually turned on and off When it comes on it makes this stupid “bwooowaaaooom” sound I see they have it for 2027, from a ‘26 owner, don’t, just don’t. The idea I heard is you can connect to this from your phone or whatever and bring it outside. Why? If somebody really wants that they can get their own speaker. On my project list is to upgrade this. I’m thinking a simple two speaker system - right behind TV. Hardwired - no lag.

I was able to remove the valve assembly and examined it. This is before i found the following in a Dometic Manual i had "IMPORTANT: Toilet warranty does not cover freeze-damaged water valve The Dometic 310 and 320 series toilet warranty expressly excludes coverage for any damages to the toilet or vehicle that may occur as a result of improper winterization of the toilet. An indicator of improper winterization is freeze damage to the water valve which results in leaks. Dometic 310 and 320 series toilet water valves exceed maximum water pressure as defined by North American plumbing code agencies. However, if trapped water freezes in piping that supplies water to the toilet, it expands and creates extremely high pressure that can damage the valve (see photo). To avoid this, winterize the toilet as described in this manual. If freeze-damage occurs as a result of improper winterization, replace the water valve with a 300/310/320 toilet water valve kit, part number 385311641. IF WATER VALVE IS RETURNED FOR WARRANTY CLAIM, DOMETIC RESERVES THE RIGHT TO DENY CLAIM IF PROBLEM IS CAUSED BY FREEZE DAMAGE. " Unquote... Fig. 6 A – Freeze Damage Indicator Window: white stress marks indicate freeze damage B – Water valve damage due to severe exposure to below-freezing temperature" a 1/4" Nut-driver works just as good as a 1/4" socket on removing the screw from the back (refer to video). this looks like it may be the issue, just not as bad, before i reinserted the flush valve. so i believe we have freeze damage to our flush valve. I'll try to source locally before ordering off AMZN, as it will travel by steamship up the Missouri, then by train, stagecoach, and finally by "Dray" Delivery. There is no AMZN Next or One or Two-day up here. but they are more than willing to charge you for it.

Just completed my 3k lube. A couple of the farthest out zerks wouldn’t take grease but I got the helpful tip to jack the trailer up. Did so and they took grease no problem. Couple extra tips Zerk covers can be useful to remind you which have been greased. For example I went over the trailer, and replaced the covers on the finished ones. Then later when I got a chance to jack the trailer the uncovered ones were the ones that needed doing, and they got covered when finished. Here’s a super handy collapsable stool to work on these, so small you can take it with you Several ways to attack the fittings. For me the stock straight zerks plus a right angle grease fitting worked perfect, no need for angled nipples or lock on port Have plenty of shop towels on hand Question: any thoughts if the grease only seems to come out to the gap nearest the nipple, can we trust that it’s making it through the rest of the bolt?

It appears as though I have some issues with my winterizing skills. That said we are chasing leaks, currently, this one out of the back of a Dometic (310/311, does the model number make a difference) for the "Water Valve Kit". The leak is coming out of the back of the "Water Valve Kit", just a slight dribble, but enough to be worrisome whilst spilling onto the shower floor. I watched the video provided by Craig and "I can do that!!!" I would like to remove the valve and examine it, to see if something on it is cracked or worse yet further up in the toilet. I am going to see if it can be found locally, if not the AMZN...

At your local Walmart for $10, I've been using Super Clean for years. Use it full strength on greasy parts. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Clean-Tough-Task-Cleaner-Degreaser-1-Gallon-128-Fluid-Ounces/23752162/ But if you really want to clean greasy/grimy parts, you would not believe how a Go-Jo style mechanics hand soap cleans parts! Rub on patiently with a soft brush (toothbrush and/or larger brushes), then hose off and blow with compressed air! I've used this in many restoration projects. Can't beat the price on this item too and check how clean these parts came out! 😎 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Purple-Power-Heavy-Duty-Creme-Hand-Cleaner-14-oz/345407987/

I have revised the original post to add a full brake inspection (see step #8 above).