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jd...Shiver my timbers and no kidding an access panel in the bottom of the Pantery? I would have never known. Thanks, another great tip.

Cool, easy fix! Empty the kitchen cabinet and remove the access panel. You should find it easily but be careful not to disturb the other wires too much! 😎

jd, thanks for the pic,,..yep my center red wire is missing / not connected to the toggle switch and floating somewhere in the wall..... I have the use of my neighbor's scope, hopefully I can find the center red wire. Should be / could be a quick fix ...maybe? Few would take the time to pull the toggle switch and send me the pic You are the best !!!

Oh Man, Geoff has the knowledge and the tools, and since I did the prework, he will understand my post! 😎

OK, so forget the jumper and I'm hoping you have a multimeter. If not, get one ASAP! On the main switch, the one at the entrance, the center RED wire is 12V+. The two gray wires will carry 12V+ based on the position of this 3-way switch. When down as pictured the red is connected to the upper gray wire which carries power to the bedside switch. This allows the secondary switch to turn ON when activated. When the switch is turned ON, the center red wire is connected to the bottom gray wire which will turn the Courtesy Lights ON. Set the multimeter to the Continuity setting, which looks like a ground symbol. In this position, you can touch the two leads together and it will make a sound like an alarm. The main switch should show continuity between the middle 12V+ lead and the top lead when OFF, and show continuity between the middle lead and bottom lead when ON! RE the bedside switch you could just use a jumper or you could test for continuity in the up/ON position. I understand this is a lot and I can get on the phone with you tomorrow if you like. BTW, as you can see in this picture, not a spec of fiberglass dust and these spade terminals were so tight I had trouble pulling them back just a 1/16" to get the multimeter leads to connect to metal. If this is above your head, start looking in the basement for wires disconnected at the lights. Best wishes, my friend! JD

Geoff is a wizard. In fact Geoff's home is about a 1/2 hour from mine. In this case, my neighbor has offer me the use of his scope. I should be able to fish the center wire from inside the hull. thanks for your help

I have done some research on-line and have learned each three way toggle switch will have three wires attached. The toggle switch for the inside courtesy lights located under the Pantery has only two wires attached. Seems the middle wire is floating between the fiberglass wall below the Pantery and behind the battery compartment. I don't have a scope. Does anyone have experience fishing a wire from between the walls of this compartment? any coaching will be appreciated.

Taylor, I'll go out and look at mine... In the meantime the real expert here, he who turned his water pump 3-way switches into 4-ways to add another switch for the outdoor shower is our friend Geoff! Maybe @Snackchaser is online?!

jd, good tip. I think I have the parts to make a jumper cable

You're welcome, @taylor.coyote. Everybody should have 1-2 of these in the Oliver toolbox. Once in a Class C, I could not get it to go into Drive from Park after starting the engine! I soon realized the brake light switch was not working. I made this jumper wire then to bypass the switch. It kept me until the next day, when I replaced the brake light switch in the Napa parking lot in Cortez Colorado! 😎

The hc1 is adorable, and great if you don't care about a kitchen or bath. A cute retro 13' hard sided tent.

dj- I'm an electrical zero, a couple of questions: when jumping wires, the toggle at the pantry has two wires and the toggle at door has 3 wires. easy to jump the two wires at the pantry. how to you deal with jumping the three wire toggle? is the center a ground? do you unplug the two outer wires and jump them ignoring the center wire? or what?

The toggles have changed. Ours and likely yours do not have the little blue LED lights showing the ON state like the newer ones. I don't know where to buy them but first jump the two wires connecting to the switch and see if that powers the lights, to be sure the switch is bad. If it turns out the switch is good, look at the connections to the courtesy lights in the streetside basement.

My interior courtesy lights will not turn on. All other lights operate. Have check the contacts on both toggle switches. I'm assuming one of the toggle switches has gone bad. Can anyone tell me where to purchase replacemnt toggles switches? I have hull #124 / 2016 production if the toggles have changed on newer production.

Thanks I’ll check that too. i appreciate all the great advice.

Thanks for the input that looks like a great deal on the inverter. I purchased 2 of the 30A DC-DC chargers 1 year before the new 50 amps came out.

I see you have a 2024 LE1. Which inverter do you have? I see in a xantrex XC2000 manual that there is a in internal fuse that may have blown due to a reverse polarity and there's a led light on the back side of the inverter that comes on if a reverse polarity happens.

The deadbolt is standard equipment from the manufacturer.

Thanks. I have lights and jacks work after replacing those fuses, but inverter is powerless and won’t reset. I will hook up shore power later to see what works. And I have AGM batteries. Voltage is 99% on the Victron meter

This looks like the same Lippert lock I have where somebody added a residential deadbolt for extra security.

Depending on the wiring of your Oliver (there are many variants), shore power may not connect with a blown inverter or blown main 300A fuse. But given the main fuse blew your inverter is likely OK. You can try to connect to shore power, but without replacing the 300A fuse to reconnect your batteries, it likely will not work anyway and either way you would NOT have lighting or 12VDC accessories. You need to disconnect your batteries anyway after this accident. Test voltage on each one separately. Given they are LiFePO4 batteries, if they read much less than 10V they are in trouble but perhaps can be revived. Slow charge each one separately. Some of the small chargers, like this one have repair functions that pulse a small charge on and off to help. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3QT226/ Let us know of your progress and there are many of us who can help.

@2008RN Check this out if you want to stop worrying about the Xantrex GFCI!

Hello experts. i mistakenly connected my battery in reverse polarity when reconnecting in the dark garage its stored in. i replaced the fuses in the panel that were blown, but the inverter doesn’t work and i think I need to replace the 300 A DC fuse. Is it safe to connect to and use shore power until i get things checked out?

This is the exact model # I installed 2 years, bought from the same company, paid $997 new. I wouldn't travel a day without it and I've had ours powered up for two years 24x7! https://invertersrus.com/product/used-victron-multiplus-ii-12v-3000va-120v-only/ They are company inspected and may have warranty from the build date. Is it time to replace your Xantrex or upgrade to 3KW? I've had mine push 3600W, for a couple minutes, without cutting out (turned the Dometic P2 on while not knowing the HWH was heating on electric)! The Multiplus II also has the unique PowerAssist feature, to assist in running A/C on 15A shore power connections or small generators. I used it last summer, when at an ancient campground we could not trust the 15A connection. I set input to the charger at 12A so the post breaker would not blow, just to be safe running the Penguin A/C half on shore power and half on battery. It was the only way to safely leave our dog in the trailer for the afternoon. After the sun set, we turned off the A/C and recharged the batteries overnight. Sure glad the Penguin is gone! Too bad they're presently out of stock of Orion 50A DC-DC chargers (maybe worth a call). But WOW, it might be time to get your MP2 today! 😎

Hello experts. i mistakenly connected my battery in reverse polarity when reconnecting in the dark garage its stored in. i replaced the fuses in the panel that were blown, but the inverter doesn’t work and i think I need to replace the 300 A DC fuse. Is it safe to connect to and use shore power until i get things checked out?