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*Batteries charged with Bluetti power bank. No problem. Used ground plug and external surge protector. Full charged batteries. *Have DC abd blue lights on. *Jack works. No lights.

John, As always, very helpful. And the LP only model would be an interesting option.

Thank you, Scotty. As far as needing more room under the bunk, so the suburban would not fit into the aquago metal "box", is that correct? So there is some reorganizing of the space under the bunk? I would probably look to have OTT do the work. Bob

These Optifuse breakers are known to fail. There are a few posts here about that. I do not know what the common failed position is, but could be open when it looks closed. I would test for continuity between the two posts on the breaker. Be careful though, these are HOT, or at least the battery side is if the breaker is defective (open when appears to be closed). Hope you get your DC power up soon but put it on your mod list to replace this breaker with a 60A ANL fuse and holder. I do not believe anybody has found a quality 60A breaker. They're all cheap junk made in you know where. Fuses are dependable. Always have an extra fuse.

Always comforting to know that I am not the only owner with a wobbly spare tire. I go with either the Home Depot and Rockler pads. Thanks 🙂

Bob, if you also feel this way, then you do not need to do all the following work (quoted below). They possibly have an LP-only model that could cost less too!

YES! YES! Yes.... This is a good switch. We had the Aquago from new in 2016. Nothing but trouble and large repair bills. Switched to the Suburban and never looked back. Service available just about anywhere. It just works. I never use the electric heat, always propane. Heats up reasonably quick. The only negative is that it will take up quite a bit more room under the bunk, so locating and throwing the cutoff valve takes a bit more work. Did I mention that YES!.... I think you should do this? Good Luck Scotty

Bob, I haven't heard of anybody going this direction, but why not? It's usually moving from the 6-gal Suburban to an on-demand/tankless model. Given your experience and reading many other posts re the Aquago model, I would not want one and I agree that I would certainly replace yours asap with something else. As you know, this model is not reliable, and my understanding is anything Truma is not serviceable! This is based on their policy of "authorized service" only. They work OEM installations only, no aftermarket sales, hence NOT serviceable except in waiting forever for OTT or Truma to service months later. Those who DIY cannot even purchase repair/replacement parts, so certainly Truma products are not for me! Rob @routlaw very recently removed a Suburban for a Fogatti tankless. He could chime in on his reasons. I would also read some blogs on tank vs. tankless to fully understand the pros and cons. Lastly, I and others with 2015-16 models, hull #s up to 150, have run the Suburban 6-gal HWH for 10+ years. This includes @topgun2, @Mike and Carol, @rideandfly, @ScottyGS, @Wayfinder and others. I would say this defines Reliability. Others can chime in on Serviceability but in 3 years of ownership, all I have done is drain it, rinse the tank annually, did the vinegar treatment once (on all plumbing). Purchased 2 anodes, installed a new one and have another for backup. I've read something about blowing the dust out of the burn chamber, but I've not experienced any real service needs which speaks again to reliability! You'll always carry 6 gallons in the tank that can't be used. I really like the option to run on propane or electric. Use electric when plugged in and it runs quieter than hearing the LP burning. I often run it on electric when towing to a campsite, powered by our inverter of course, and the +40A we get from our DC-DC charger makes it a breakeven in power, arriving at the campsite with 6-gal hot water (unless we instead run the A/C, weather depending). LP tanks always OFF when towing. There is an AC switch under the cover that is awkward to get to, so we always leave that switch ON and turn electric ON/OFF using the circuit breaker inside. There is a separate switch to fire it up by LP. For this model feature you'll have to run new 10-12 (?) AWG 120VAC wiring and add a breaker in the 120VAC power panel. You'll also need an LP ON/OFF control switch if your tankless model does not have one. That's my take. Hope it helps! 😎

This just came up in another thread, but in their case it was one of the breakers you already found under the bed, so we can rule that out. Since the last thing you changed was charging the batteries, let's start there. How are you charging the batteries? Did you plug your shore power cord into the Bluetti and now the trailer's built-in converter (Xantrex) is charging the batteries? Or did you connect in some other way? Also, to start from basics, are both of your Lithionics batteries currently (no pun intended) turned on (blue light glowing around the power buttons)? Is EVERY DC item dead? All lights? Bathroom fan? USB outlets? Tongue jack?

I checked both of these fuse/ breakers and neither one is tripped. They are located on the street side under the bed.

I checked both of these fuse/ breakers and neither one is tripped. They are located on the street side under the bed.

My 2021 E2 has an OptiFuse 12V 60A breaker under the street side bunk. The best wiring diagram I have found that’s close to my model is the 2019 manual (page 43) from the Oliver University. See the breaker in the upper left side. Another quick check is the CO monitor under the dinette. That usually is always on, does not go through the circuit breaker. If that has a light on, you have power coming in, so it is likely the breaker.

Yes I put those on there. I got a roll of stick-on UHMW from Rockler. People put it on tablesaw fences. I did something similar but less elegant to keep my hull from getting scuffed. I used 4 plastic adhesive door stopper discs from Home Depot.

Not to rehash any particular issues with the Truma on demand water heater that I have experienced, but I am considering replacing the Truma with the Suburban. My primary reasons would be reliability and serviceability. I don't ever want to be 800 miles from home with no hot water if I can help it. I know that there are no perfect solutions, but I want to reduce the likelihood of an outage. Based on some other threads here I see that some have chosen the suburban route, and been quite happy. The on demand is great when it works, but my experience has been less than satisfactory in the nearly 2 years of using it. Any thoughts on the wisdom of making that switch? Thanks!

I have no DC power. Can not find the problem/solution. Need advice. Battery charging with my Bluetti power bank was success. I used my "PowerWatchDog" at the Bluetti. I also used a "grounding plug" at the Bluetti. Works great and my batteries are charging very nicely. However (there always seems to be a "however") I have no DC power in the Oliver. All DC items are down! Is there a "Master DC Fuse/Breaker" somewhere? Or other advice as to a solution? (FYI. I started a conversation yesterday on how to charge with the Bluetti. Received good advice and it worked fine, however... I started this new thread as this is a related, but new topic.) Thanks much.

Yep, That sounds right, it's not likely the elastic locks nuts loosened clamping the plate to the fiberglass hull, but still check when the spare is removed. Good advice!

Hi Craig, That is the vent plug for use with the antifreeze kit. Here's a video that explains its use...

Ok now I’m thinking that the second nut is a jam nut to hold the first nut on and both have backed off somehow. I would remove both nuts and see if the aluminum cylinder is threaded on that rod and check for something that might have loosened. Bill

Yes I put those on there. I got a roll of stick-on UHMW from Rockler. People put it on tablesaw fences. Bill

I like the pads (assume) you installed on the fiberglass. Ours has two nuts on the stud, but I like the single nut with disc on yours, too.

@Dirt Duff No that is not typical. On our Ollie the fit is snug when the wing nut is tightened. Is this mounting plate tight against the fiberglass hull?

I have hull 313. This is what my spare tire mount looks like. It looks like you have an extra nut. Those two pieces of UHMW plastic keep the spare from rubbing and staining the gelcoat. I use a disk cut from a bucket lid to make the large ring that secures the spare easier to tighten. Bill

OK the battery charging with my Bluetti is a success. I used my "PowerWatchDog" at the Bluetti. I also used a "grounding plug" at the Bluetti. Works great and my batteries are charging very nicely. However (there always seems to be a "however") I have no DC power in the Oliver. All DC items are down! Is there a "Master DC Fuse/Breaker" somewhere? Or other advice? Thanks much.

Please view the two movies attached below. The spare tire in my LE2 is lose and wobbles. I assume that the large "wing nut", when tightened, should be snug against the surface of the spare wheel. However, rather than being snug against the wheel's surface, the wing nut is snug against the two nuts on the threaded post. This results in a 1/4 gap between the spare wheel and the wing nut. Is my lose spare tire typical of other Olivers? Is there a remedy? Thanks IMG_4584.MOV IMG_4588.MOV

Hello, Wondering if someone could explain to me purpose of the yellow device that's on the inside cover of my Truma AquaGo water heater door? I've looked through the manual and don't see any mention of it. Picture attached. The yellow device (tool?) is removable. Thank you, Craig / 2020 Elite II Hull #612 IMG_8917.HEIC