Townesw

The steps on our Oliver have always been loud when being lowered or raised. I have taken some “steps” that have made them quieter. And before you ask, no, I don’t have before and after noise level analytical data. I just know that they are quieter. 1. I draw filed the top and bottom of both slots. This picture after a couple of draw passes with a file shows the roughness left by the machining process. The bright spots are the high spots of the rough surface. I suspect that one side of the slot was smoother than the other due to the direction of rotation of the cutting tool. Picture of the bottom of the right side slot after several passes using a draw file technique. Be sure to keep the swarf cleaned out of the file. There is a light shining on the surface. It is much smoother. I then applied some silicone lubricant to both sides of each slot and allowed it to dry. 2. I next reassembled the steps and placed (6) rubber bushings on the stainless steel rod to dampen the vibrations that the rod made when being drawn through the slot in the aluminum sides. 3. I also replaced the aluminum spacers on each side with polypropylene spacers. 4. I removed the female halves of the sex bolts that act as the pivot for the lower step. I used a T50 torx bit but it is actually a T55. I have the correct bit now. Never pass up the chance to buy a new tool. I applied silicone lubricant to the inside of the hole in the step side and to the outside of the binding barrel and allowed it to dry before reassembling. I will probably drill those holes out to receive Oilite bushings this winter but this will suffice for now. Material used. The rubber bushings are actually 1/2” ID x 2” OD x 2” long. The holes aren’t perfectly centered but I didn’t need for them to be. I chose 2” OD so that they would clear other parts of the step assembly. You will have to lubricate the step rod and the hole in the bushings to be able to assemble them. The polypropylene spacers came from McMaster Carr. Be sure to use a dry silicone lubricant instead of grease. The grease will retain grit picked up off the road. Bill

I have thought about putting the switch and LED between the TP holder and the air duct. Bill

That is why I want to use a threaded body switch. I see that you have run into this problem also. I have used panel mounted switches in thick material by finding a hose that the switch will fit tightly into, cutting a short ring out of the hose, and then slipping the ring over the back of the switch to hold it in place, sort of like threading a nut on. I have found an adapter to mount a panel mount using a threaded bushing. I had rather use a threaded switch but I may have to use this

I am looking for a round rocker switch, SPDT, weatherproof, threaded mount, not lighted, blade terminals. I am not finding anything like this using my usual search methods. I have removed the shelf from the bathroom vanity and have installed a marine hatch in its place. I now must relocate the pump switch. The factory used what I think is a DPDT panel mount switch and held it in place with a wad of caulk. I want to mount the switch more securely. Switch as mounted in the shower shelf Switch removed from shower shelf Where I want to place a new switch Wiring schematic showing switch I want to replace Thanks for your help Bill

@mossemi @NCeagle and others: Those of you that have done this modification, how did you caulk the side behind the hinge? I’ve got 2 layers of butyl tape on the vertical sides to offset the curvature of the cabinet. I can caulk 3 sides but not the side behind the hinge. Bill

Thanks for your responses. I found a newer version of the installation instructions online. My installation instructions dated 09-24-2019 do not have the note on the drawing that the instructions dated 04-13-2021 have regarding what button to place forward. The old Ventline fan that I removed has a steel base. The butyl tape used to bed it had been built up under the front and rear of the base so as to conform to the roof curvature. Bill

I took it to mean that you place the power button forward, not the release button. That’s why I posted this question, to get responses from owners whose Olivers had the MaxxAir MaxxFan Dome installed at the factory. Also, I don’t intend to pull the flange down much to form to the roof curvature. I intend to build the butyl tape up some under the front and rear of the flange where it stands proud of the surface. Bill

How does the factory orient the MaxxAir MaxxFan Dome in the bathroom? Installation instructions say orient the fan with the button towards the front of the coach but I’ve seen retrofit installations that orient it differently. Bill

@Boudicca908 921 is 22 oz bottle, 923 is 1 gallon jug https://www.duragloss.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/921-DURAGLOSS-FAST-CLEAN-SHINE.pdf 951 is 22 ounce bottle, 952 is 1 gallon jug https://www.duragloss.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/951-DURAGLOSS-AQUAWAX-SPRAY-WAX.pdf

@jd1923 It hasn’t happened to me but it has happened to at least 3 people in the following thread https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/3447-left-black-tank-clean-out-hose-on/

Cross-over of water from the black tank into the gray tank through the common vent absolutely can and has occurred. More than one owner has attached a black tank flush hose, turned it on and forgotten about it. When the black tank fills water rises up the black vent and spills over into the gray vent. If the shower drain valve is closed the water comes up through the shower drain. If the shower drain valve is open the gray tank fills and then the water comes up through the shower drain.

Are they sure it’s kitchen water? Are they adding water to the black tank using the No Fuss Flush fitting? If they are flushing the black tank and have let it get too full and the shower drain valve is closed the water from the black tank can back up in the black tank vent and flow over into the sink drain and rise up through the shower drain and fill the shower pan and could actually overflow the pan and flood the trailer floor. Do not rely on the tank level display when diagnosing water level and drainage problems, or any other time really. I apologize for the “ands” and the run-on sentence. Bill

Read my posts in this thread. I used a Lippert tinted glass insert because the door is a Lippert. Be sure to get the frame release clips and a new inside and outside frame because you will break some tabs while removing the frames. The new frames will also have new intact seals. After installing the clear tinted glass I wanted a blind that could be operated without having to open the screen door. I had a friend that sews make me a blind out of heavy curtain material and used 2 spring rods to position the blind in the screen door frame. The top spring rod can be lowered to allow a viewing area at the top.

I have just started studying replacement air conditioners and have seen references to Dreiha Atmos 4.4 vs. Tosot. Is one a rebranded version of the other, or are these 2 different units, or is one a clone of the other?

Talked to Kevin Searer at SDG Elkhart. Stopped by without an appointment. Walked in and said I would like some info on installing a Tosot in an Oliver. He showed me the one on the demonstration stand in the workshop and turned it on. He said that you can stay in the parking lot the night before your conversion. They have 30a hookup. They pull your trailer in at 8am and 3 hours later they are done. Same hole as Dometic. Control panel is on the front right corner of the air box. They replace the Dometic thermostat with a simple thermostat for the existing furnace. Only thing I didn’t like was the condensate running off the roof. I didn’t ask pricing because I wasn’t ready to buy.