rideadeuce

@mossemi I am not sure which version of software it started with but if you update to the newest official release you should be good. I was interested in trying the beta because it has the new Orion XS displayed. It is smart to wait for the official release because then all the bugs will have been worked out. Mike

Just DC and propane. From a boon-docking perspective… hopefully you don’t need AC.

@jd1923 The way you have yours wired is the same as mine. The main shore power goes through the inverter only and it must be ON for anything to work. I don't like it either and want to work around that limited functionality. Just way down on the list right now. Please post when you figure it out. The only thing that works on DC for me with inverter off is the plugs and new Nova Kool fridge. Did you install the Victron Multi Control? I have spoke to a Victron tech about it and you must wire it differently. So there is a solution. Just haven't had the time to look at yet. Okay, after a walk to the mailbox. The MPII must be ON for the shore power to come through. You need to install a transfer switch to bypass the inverter if you wan't AC with it OFF. I was told that the way I had it was the best way. Can't remember why he said that.

Pretty cool new UI in Beta. Orion XS 50 finally shows up.

3 weeks old. 3 boys and a girl.

I forgot to mention this actually came OEM with the camper.

@jd1923 carry on, don't let me mess you up. The bulkhead inlet I linked is for the Pro4K only unless you splice the wire. I feel like you have a good grasp of what you want and need. I do have a bias towards GZ stuff. Been using it since 2007.

Magnets sounds like an interesting solution. The new latex cushions and vinyl covers are actually more grippy and have a lot more heft to them. I never had an issue with the cloth cushions sliding off either, so I would be surprised if these do.

I think that is all you need (up to 400W), it would work perfectly. Have you ever looked at Goal Zero products. Worth a gander.

Finally, I upgraded my cloth to marine vinyl that is waterproof, looks and feels like leather to me. Latex foam with Muslin wrap for cushion. Cushions are noticeably heftier and more comfortable. Looking forward to using the them. Bonus, I can use the old back pillows to make up the king bed conversion without taking from the dinette. Ordered from Foamorder.com, took a couple of weeks to ship but well worth it IMO. Best, Mike

I am trying to take everything in to account for the change. Atmos AC was installed mid July and cabin humidity never was outside the 40-60% range until I installed the fridge and closed the vents. Ambient humidity was 89% last night. Cabin humidity drops to 40-60% during the day. I will start experimenting, I suspect the balancing act of fresh air, AC usage and a dehumidifier maybe will just be different than before. I had the same setup for almost 7 Years and did not have to think about anything. I have made a lot of changes so I will have to make some adjustments.

Humidity has been high all summer during the night here in TN. But, yes, it has rose a bit higher in August.

I will update after some of your suggestions. Doesn’t make sense to me either. But definitely changed dramatically after install.

No, I agree. My only thinking is that the basement and bay areas are sealed off from the cabin and the Truma is vented to the outside. So you would think that since ambient humidity is higher that the humidity would be the same. But it is definitely quite higher in the cabin. Humidity is coming from the Nova Kool due to closing the vents? Not sure.

External. Just drips outside. Which is working normally. Humidity was fine after Atmos installation. It was only after Nova Kool install and external vent closures that humidity began to rise.

So update on install and vent closure. We have had high humidity here in TN and since closing the outside vents I have been getting alarms from my Ruuvi sensors. Cabin humidity has been climbing into the 70s and even 80s at night despite trialing the dehumidifier mode on Atmos. This is concerning to me. Anyone else that has closed their vents seen this issue. Thinking about maybe opening one of the vents to the outside. Any ideas? Prior to fridge replacement and closing vents humidity was staying in the 40-60% range

That is reassuring. Great research, as always! I think I will order a 400 amp ANL for now and maybe switch to T class when I catch up a little. I do wish I had more of an electrical education. Learning as I go, thanks to the forum members many times. Thanks! Enjoy seeing your take on the install.

The problem with that is, I believe, the 4/0 cabling is only rated to about 250 amp. I was mistaken about mine being a 300 amp ANL it is 250 amp from the factory. So I think I should stick with the lower amp fuse but definitely may look into changing from ANL to T class for the higher AIC. Not sure about beefing up the cables.

Thanks to everyone before me who did this install and shared it on the forum. Especially, a big thanks to @mountainoliver, @Geronimo John for all the info and pics. The install was pretty straight forward but not as refined as some. So happy to have gotten rid of the absorption fridge. Nothing to add except some pictures. I did end up copying a lot of things. Ended up using a little bit of VHB tape on bottom supports, 3/8 in HDPE for side brackets and used some better plastic to plastic epoxy. The other stuff I used did end up failing @mossemi (you sir were correct!) and ended up screwing (6) 1 1/4 in. SS screws through the backside for stabilization of the MPII. Glad I had the aluminum mount for backup. This time I used https://a.co/d/5IrB3w2 First part of install was quick and I forgot to take pics. Destroyed the Dometic fridge getting it out!. I will be done once I caulk and source some SS vents to cover the top and bottom holes.

Can you DM contact information for sourcing vents. I would appreciate it. I am trying to finish up install of the Nova Kool and still trying to source the upper and lower vents akin to what MountainOliver did. Thanks, Mike

Got it! It was the iPad giving me trouble. Double tapping on pic finally worked.

Can someone remind me how to size pictures. I seem to have lost the ability to do it or I just can’t remember how. At one time, I thought you could drag or attach the picture and then were able to size it when you inserted it into the text. Thanks, Mike

I agree with everything you said above. My batteries have an on the battery ON/OFF switch and through the comm port extended remotely installed in the pantry. If you wanted a cutoff switch I would use a Blueseas switch next to the ANL fuse you already have installed. Amazon link: https://a.co/d/3ahngGe

The Epoch 460 marine battery I have has a 500amp built in T-fuse plus my OEM build had a 300amp T-fuse directly outside the battery bay so I called it good. I did buy some 180 amp MRBF fuses for the terminal but ended up returning them. If you need any kind of fuses, I recommend Blueseas. Excerpt from Panbo.com “ Let’s get one exciting thing out early. These batteries contain a 500 amp fuse under the cover of the battery, just before the positive post of the battery. The fuse Epoch uses is from the EV market and carries an amp interrupt capability (AIC) of 50,000 amps. That rating means that with up to 50,000 amps flowing through the fuse, it will still successfully trip to an open and safe condition. ABYC’s electrical safety standards require a fuse with a 20,000 amp AIC. Before disassembling this battery, I’d never seen a class T rated above 20ka AIC. Thus far the only gripes I have about the fuse are that it appears difficult to source a replacement — which I’m hoping Epoch can help with by selling replacements — and I think Epoch should label the outside of the battery to warn there’s a fuse inside. That way, a boat owner won’t find themselves stumped if they accidentally trip the fuse. But, make no mistake this fuse is a really big deal and a really good thing. By placing a high AIC fuse inside the battery, installers are now relieved of the obligation to place a physically large class T fuse as close to the batteries as possible. The combination of fuse holder size and thick cables can make this a challenge. Knowing the fuse is inside the battery, an MRBF post-top fuse holder can now be safely used. Thus, the entire system is protected via the internal fuse, and the wire off the battery is protected by an appropriately sized MRBF on the positive terminal.” Cheers, Mike